IONEERIN
THE
WEST
sil
University of California Berkeley
PIONEERING
THE WEST
1846 to 1878
MAJOR HOWARD EGAN'S DIARY
ALSO
Thrilling Experiences of Pre-
Frontier Life Among Indians;
Their Traits, Civil and Savage,
and Part of Autobiography,
Inter- Related to His Father's,
BY HOWARD R. EGAN
Edited, Compiled, and Connected
In Nearly Chronological Order
BY Wm. M. EGAN
ILLUSTRATED
Published by
HOWARD R. EGAN ESTATE
Richmond, Utah
1917
DEDICATED TO
THE EGAN FAM1 LY
Their Friends
and All Interested in the Work
of the
Pioneers of the West
Copyrighted 1917, by
HOWARD R. EG AN ESTATE
All rights reserved
Press of
SKELTON PUBLISHING CO.
Salt Lake City, Utah
oancron Library
Major Howard Egan, Author of the
Diaries of Pioneering the West, Trail Blazer
of the Overlanl Eoute, Pony Express and
Overland Mail Agent. Captain of 50s with
Mormon Exodus, Special Messenger for
Mormon Battalion 1846, Capt. 9th Ten of
the Original 144 Pioneers, made three trips
to Salt Lake from the States, and innu-
merable trips to California on three or
more routes.
Preface
PIONEER MONUMENT
Cor. Main and South Temple Sts
~7~ HEBE is always a degree of interest in
the pioneering of any locality in which
one lives; and as time goes on, more
importance and interest is attached to it.
When a great inter-mountain common-
wealth grows up and develops in a few snort
years, the memory of those hardy pioneers, who
were the first to make possible such progress,
are looked upon with greater interest as the
years go by and the records of all who look
an important part are sought after.
It was well known by all who were in
any way acquainted with Major Egan that his
life work, if written, would make a remakably
interesting book provided the information could
be obtained. Neither himself or family were of
a literary turn of mind, and hence much that
would be of great interest was never committed
to paper. During his life time no thought
was ever given to anything of a literary
nature.
The family all knew that Father (as Mother and all the family called
him) had a private desk packed full of papers, but that any of them had
any thing of value more than private correspondence none of the family
knew. Even at the time of his death (1878) no attempt was made to
exmine his papers and see if there was anything worthy of preservation
until Mother died (1905) which took place some twenty seven years after.
At the time of her death this writer was on a mission to the Eastern
States and was unable to return until after the funeral and the old home
had been ransacked ready to be pulled down when he returned.
Howard B. Egan, the principal writer of the latter part of the book
looked over Father's desk and took home with him what he judged might
be interesting to read over when he got home. The rest were scattered
over the floor and later the house was pulled down. In looking over the
papers Howard got interested and having plenty of time on his hands,
not being able to walk or work much, and he read and re-wrote Father's
entire Diary of the Pioneer trip nearly as we have put it in type, also
some other trips that were in diary form. This was necessary on account
of the difficulty of reading the fine writing, which is shown in fac-simile
exact size on page 110.
The interest in the matter began to grow and correspondence with,
this writer met with sufficient encouragement and help so the manuscript
was typewritten ready for the press. Later some incidents that Howard
was so familiar with were written and his family was desirous of having
them preserved and they were also typewritten. The work having been
done by this writer as also the compiling and editing for the press.
The value of this book lies in its strict adherence to truth, and
fidelity to fact. First of all it is the story of eye-witnesses and it often
touches the story and romance of the mountains. One of its missions
will be to preserve the real spirit of Pioneering the Great West, and the
PIONEERING THE WEST
commencement of the first enterprises, which were only the forerunner
of greater things. Many of the events protrayed in this volume are as
fascinating as any in all history. The events had their dangers and some-
times ended in tragedy.
Our desire is to awaken an interest with old-timers, and those who
have descended from Pioneer stock, as well as all those, who are in any
way concerned in the early development of this western and inter-mountain
country, to show the hardships, difficulties and the toil that it took to
open up the way, and the resolution, determination and untiring efforts
put forth by those "Pilgrim Fathers" that were driven from their homes
by mobs and forced to hunt a new home for themselves and those who
followed after.
The Diary, in the First Part, is corroborative of other writers, but
it also contains many things not mentioned by any one and not likely
to be given any where else. All the writing in Diary form was taken
from Major Howard Egan's old Diaries just as he penned them as
near as practical, preserving the diction intact. The writing of the
compiler and editor are preceeded by a star*. All the rest of the writing
except as credit is given not in diary form and not starred were written
by H. B. Egan, whose brief preface is as follows:
"Some of my children and brothers have expressed the wish that I
write some of my earliest recollections and on up to date. Well, I am
now over seventy-five years old and have a good memory. It would take
a long time to tell all I can remember, and, if printed would make a good
many volumes. So I will necessarily have to be brief on many events as
I come to them. I shall not pretend to give these few sketches of Pioneer
life in routine or give dates as to when they happened as I am not writing
from any memorandum but just as I remember them." H. R. Egan.
At first it was intended to print only Father's Diaries, about 200
pages of about 250 words in larger type, but when Howard K got his
writings together it was decided to select smaller type. Then we wanted
the engravings to come in the proper places so a smooth thin paper was
selected. In discussing about this Howard R. wrote as follows:
"The trend of modern times is to utilize and conserve space, which
becomes more valuable as time passes. This is the case in all kinds of
human endeavor, whether in agriculture or in the mechanical arts, effi-
ciency, durability, space and cost are all considered.
But in "cheap .John" affairs the first two don't count and only the
last is reckoned with. As in books, to use very thick paper, very large
type and leave great marginal space at each side of pages, besides having
the subjects, put in a great number of paragraphs, any thing to eat up
space and spread a little over enough thick paper to make the desired
thickness, and the number of pages. Then sometimes, to make amends
put on a cover that is quite attractive and frequently costing more
than the rest of the book -unwise and expensive.
"Multum in Parvo'' suits the intelligent person best, and this is
what we rater to. A book of 200 pages of 250 words each, and another of
500 words each is worth one-half more, if the contents are only of the
same value. But this again has a great deal to do with the price.
We are offering a book that is not built to catch the eye, but is
PIONEERING THE WEST
presentable and durable. We are offering a book that contains valuable
information not printed in any other book or form. We are offering a book
that contains no fiction, but is the actual experiences and personal views
of the writers. We are offering a book that we think should be very in-
teresting to those seeking Pioneer History. We are offering a book that
will become more valuable as time passes, for a reminder of frontier life.
We are offering a book that takes less space than most books on the
market, yet with good readable type. We are offering a book at a lower
price, considering the contents, than the price of the same sized book."
These were the last words of the publisher, H. R. Egan, written
just before his death, which occurred in March 1916, but were not found
until after the funeral. These words stand for the truth and the book it-
self supports the statements.
The book is not written from a religious nor scientific standpoint;
nor is it written in poise of a hero, ostentation or self praise, but is simple
in style and diction. No effort, either, has been made to change it from the
original writings. Perusal of the book illustrates how close to the
exact fact it adheres, and that no embelishments of story or fiction is
introduced, although there is ample opportunity to picture the circumstances
in that manner, and still it often runs into startling episodes of the
mountains and plains and thrilling experiences which often ended in
tragedy. The book is divided into four parts.
The stereotyped form of chapters is avoided, the four parts above
referred to being each divided into sections as the classifications could be
made and yet preserve their natural and chronological order. Other
divisions are made in all about seventy-five articles or headings numbered
consecutively, with some few sub-headings.
The conclusion brings the closing incidents down to a recent date and
finishes in brief the biography of Major Howard Egan and his son,
Howard K. Egan, as well as a brief account of his other sons, his pro-
genitors and the family tree of his descendents.
The statement in the conclusion that four of Mother's children were
alive was true when that was written, but was overlooked in the proof
although it was stated in a previous paragraph when Howard R. died.
The Appendix deals with genealogy and makes a connecting link,
by the aid of an old Irish Chart, from Adam to the stem of the Egan
Family.
We now commit to each reader the facts, faith, and experiences that
attended the trips of the Pioneers; also thrill" ng experiences of pre-frontier
life and stories of the hab'ts, customs and character of Indian life by
one who knew their language and was well acq.ua -nted with them, and
knew how to deal with them. To all it will be a pleasure to know the
situations, thoughts and experiences of eye-witnesses and be able to see
some things as they were in early days. We are indebted to the Improve-
ment Era for many of the engraving used and we are thankful for the
nse of same. We continue to find many things that should have been said in
this book but its limits has required us to make all statements as brief
as possible consistent with proper explanation in order to preserve what
has been written by Father and brother Howard R. Egan.
THE COMPILER AND EDITOR.
Contents.
PART 1.
PIONEERING: NAUVOO TO SALT LAKE.
Page Page
Introduction 9 8. Platt River Crossings 62
Sec. I. Nauvoo to Winter Quarters 9. Rocky Mountains 91
2. Mormon Exodus 13 Sec. III. What was Done 103
3. Trip to Santa Fe 15 10. Work at Salt Lake 114
4. The Pioneers, A Poem 17 11. Meeting the Trains 134
5. Original Band of 144 18 Sec. IV. Second Trip 138
6. Howard Egan's Diary 21 12. Winter Quarters 138
Sec. II. Details of Trip 21 13. On to Salt Lake 140
7. Laramie Plains 32 14. Scenes By The Way 141
PART II.
SALT LAKE: INCIDENTS OF EARLY SETTLEMENT.
Sec. I. Our Home Life 147 21. The Indian Portrait 155
15. The Old Fort 147 Deep Snow-Freezing 155
16. Our New Home 148 Sec. III. Stories of Salt Lake 160
17. Grasshoppers and Crickets 150 22. The Cold Swim 160
18. Another Home 151 23. Setting Gun for Bear 161
19. Burning of the Barn 152 24. The Hornets 163
Sec. II. Relics 155 25. The Stampede is Stopped 164
20. Indian Mounds 155 26. Taby We-Pup 166
PART III.
PIONEERING: SALT LAKE TO CALIFORNIA.
Sec. I. Route South, and North 169 Sec. III. Central Route 202
27. A Diary, 1849 to 1850 169 36. Getting Rid of an Indian 202
28. Tecumsee 182 37. A Run For Life 203
29. Indian Snake Eating 187 38. Tracking Stolen Mules 205
30. The Sleeping Mule 188 39. Changing Camp After Dark 207
31. A Fearful Fall 190 40. My Three Day's Fast 208
Sec. II. The Central Route.... 193 41. Mail Carrier 211
32. A Ten Day's Trip 193 42. Father's Indian Doctor.... 216
33. Finding the Egan Trail.... 194 43. A Trip to Ruby Valley 217
34. Pony Express Stations 198 44. Short Line Cut Off 220
35. Deep Creek 201 45. Irrigation 222
PART IV.
THRILLING EXPERIENCES OF PRE-FRONTIER LIFE.
cJec. I. Indian Practice 226 Sec. IV. Indian Cruelties 251
46. A Little Surprise 226 60. Old Indian Left to Die.... 251
47. Lasso Practice 227 61. How Bill Got His Wife.... 252
48. Eating Ants 228 62. The Cross Indian 254
49. Indian Cricket Drive 230 63. The Indian Outbreak 256
50. Trapping A Coyote 233 64. Burning of Canyon Station 263
Sec. II. Hunting, Harvesting.. 235 65. Jessie Karl's Death 264
51. A Rabbit Drive 2 '-5 66. The Indian, No Legs 265
52. Mountain Rat Food 237 67. Playful Goats 267
63. The Antelope Drive 238 68. T V"a^on Going No Team.... 268
54. Pine-Nut Harv.-<t -41 69. The Dog Pompy 269
65. Hunting for Water 242 70. Wild Pets 272
66. Squaws Catching Moles.... 245 71. The Sand Hill Cranes 274
Sec. in. Hard Experiences 248 72. Indian Story of Great Cave 273
57. Saved by a Rabbit 248 73. Express Rider's Experience 280
59. Around a Bu-h all Night . 249 74. I'npleasant Experiences.... 280
58. Lost and Found 248 75. Conclusion 282
APPENDIX.
Genealogy 285 Howard Egan's Travel in 1849 298
Pedigree of Howard Egan 289 The Egan Family Organization 300
Irish Hitsory 297 Articl.-s of Agreement 301
LIST OF ENGRAVINGS
Major Howard Egan Frontispiece
W. M. Egan 8
Irish Home Birth Place 10
Howard Ransom Egan 12
8. F. Kimball 16
On the Way 20
Gathering on the Elk Horn 22
Prairie Burned Over 34
Buffalo 41
Indians Near Laramie 49
Buffalo Hunt 51
Brigham Young 52
Top O'the Rockies 67
Stream from Tunnel 70
Mountain Lake 71
Ready to Move from Camp 82
Corn for Jim Bridger 88
Indian Encampment 93
Aspen Forest 100
Result of Irrigation 105
Heber C. Kimball 106
Facsimile of Diary 110
First House Built in Salt Lake 117
Dave Kimball and Wife 137
Chimney Rock 143
Camping at Echo 144
Native and Ensign Peak 146
Salt Lake Temple 149
Upper Main Street, 1860 153
Gov. Gumming' s Recommend 156
Amunition from H. Egan 157
News and Tithing Offices 158
Brigham Young and Brothers.... 165
Growth of Salt Lake City 166
Jebow and Squaw 168
Cactus and Fencing 177
Washikee, Peace Chief 184
Kanosh Pavant Chief 186
First Salt Lake Store 191
Pony Express 199
Deep Creek Ranch 201
Marked Arrows 208
Overland Mail Coach 212
R. E. Egan, Express Rider 214
Log Cabin 225
Pioneer Cottage 234
Bill and Wife 253
H. R. Egan 256
Church Offices etc 284
Family Tree 288
Father and Mother 289
Ira Ernest Egan 291
Hyrum Wm. Egan 291
Pioneer Monument 303
WM. M. EGAN.
Compiler and Editor of "Pioneering
the West"; Editor and Publisher of
"Our Deseret Home*' and "The Utah
Industrialist/' Address. No. 3
Gerard avenue, Salt Lake City.
J .IN TRODUCTOR Y.
"Howard Egan was born in Tullemore, King's County Ireland
June 15th, 1815. His father's name was Howard and his mother's
maiden name was Ann Meade. His Grand Father's name was
Bernard and his Grand Mother's name was Betty. After the
death of his Mother, when about eight years of age, 1823, with
his father and eight other children, he left Ireland. He was the
fourth child and the first son, there being ten in the family.
The last two being twins, one of whom was left with an aunt
in Ireland.
The family went to Montreal, Canada and settled there.
Howard's Father died in Montreal in 1828, leaving si:* orphan
children. Howard went to sea and followed the life of a sailor
until grown when he settled in Salem Mass., and worked at rope
making. In 1838 he became acquainted with Miss Tamson Par-
shley, who was born July 27th 1825 at Barnstead, N. H., being the
tenth child of Richard Parshley and Mary Caverly. They were
married Dec. 1st 1838, he being over 23 years of age and his
wife a girl of 14 years and four months.
Their first son Howard R. Egan was born April 12th 1840,
also the second son R. Erastus Egan March 29th 1842, in Salem.
In Oct. 1841 he was' naturalized as an American Citizen, and in
1842 he and his wife were converted to "Mormonism" by Elder
Erastus Snow and baptized, moving to Nauvoo the same year.
He became one of the Nauvoo Police, and the Prophet Joseph's
guard, who has said "he felt safe when Howard Egan was on
guard." He was also Major in the Nauvoo Legion.
Sept. 24th 1844 he and his wife each received a Patriarchal
blessing under the hands of Hyrum Smith, the Patriarch and bro-
ther of the Prophet in which it is stated that he was "of the
lineage of David and of the tribe of Judah....and have a right
to the priesthood and blessings according to the prophetic visions
of his fathers. .. .and shall be numbered with the called and
chosen. .. .and also prepetuated by his posterity in the blessing
of the priesthood from generation to generation until the latest
generation." That his wife should receive these blessings in
common with him, that she was the seed of Joseph through
the loins of Ephraim. He filled several missions in the states.
After the martyrdom of the Prophet and Patriarch at the
time of the return of the Twelve Apostles, when Oliver Cow-
P I O X K K U I X a T H K W F S T 11
dery was trying to lead the Church, Mother saw Brigham Young
look like Joseph and speak in his voice at a meeting held Aug.
8th, 1844 showing conclusively where the authority of leader-
ship laid. H. R. Egan introduced his writings as follows:
EARLY DAYS.
I will start by saying, "I was born in Salem Mass." although
I was there I don't recall the event, but I do remember of
Mother leading me by the hand up to the Nauvoo Temple and
showing me the large baptismal font that was supported on
the backs of twelve stone oxen. (When at the age of six years.)
There were four on the side where we stood, one at each corner
and two between them just as natural as life. I remember the
house we lived in. There was two rooms facing the street with a
hall between. We lived in the left hand room, another family
lived in the right hand room. I don't remember of ever going in
there. There was a flight of stairs in the hall that led to two
rooms above. I remember the stairs but nothing more about
the house but what I have stated.
Father had a rope factory down close to the river where
Mother used to go with his dinner and often took me with her,
I remember of seeing Father with a big arm-full of hemp backing
down the walk as he was spinning out the twine to matte ropes
of, and at other times he and another man would be throwing
hemp over a hatchel, and dragging it back to free it of sticks
or dirt and make it ready for spinning. At one time I saw him as
he was finishing a large and long rope, there were three strands
each composed of many small ones. The three strands were
each hooked on one turning hook, and a man far down the walk
had the three strands fastened to a hook called a looper. This
was in a belt the man wore around his waist, so he could lean
back and keep the cords tight and off the ground.
As Father could not stop then to eat his dinner we had to
wait till the twisting wns done, Father held a conical shaped block
of wood that had three grooves in it in his hands. In each groove
laid one of the strands, and as they would twist enough to suit
him he would back down towards the lower end. I was following
him down the walk v hen he gave me a scare by turning to face
the man and putting one hand, side of his mouth, yelled out at
the top of his voice, "slack up on that looper." The man was
pulling too hard I suppose.
PIONEERING THE WEST
I remember of seeing posts that had arms across the top with
pegs sticking up like rake teeth to hold twine separate as twisted.
I don't know how far apart these posts were, but it seemed to me
they were about two or three rods, and as high as a man could
reach. The factory was very long bat not enough when Father
had to make sea cables, so he had placed a good many posts
beyond the lower end of the walk. Some of them were on the
sand bar, but as I saw them then, there were a few standing in
the river.
One day I was with Mother when she showed me the foun-
dation of a house and said, "They were going to build our home
there, then it wouldn't be so far to the factory.
Howard Ransom Egan,
Author of "Thrilling Experiences,
Began this Publication 191?.
Died March, 1916.
Pioneering the West.
PART I.
PIONEERING: NAUVOO TO SALT LAKE,
SEC. I. PIONEERING TO WINTER
QUARTERS 1846.
2. MORMON EXODUS.
I well remember the Mormon Exodus and of sitting in a
covered wagon with Mother and brother Erastus, and this
is the first I remember of him. (Howard six and Erastus four
years old.) The wagon was standing on the bank of the Miss-
issippi river with the front end facing the water. There was
another wagon close by. I had seen two wagons on a flat
boat leave the shore and go out of sight. Mother said we
could go next when the boat came back. I did not see it when
it came back for I had gone to sleep, but the next morning
when I opened my eyes it was raining, and peeping out of the
front end of the wagon I could see that Mother and quite a
large crowd of people were standing by a large fire that had been
built against a stump just in the edge of the forest. The Miss-
issippi river was just back of us. We had been brought over
in the night. The next I remember was of some man unhitch-
ing the team from the wagon and putting it ahead of another
team on another wagon and going off out of sight. I don't
know where this place was and don't believe anyone else does,
(probably Sugar Creek, which place they left March 1, 1846),
for it was raining all the time and water all over the ground
except here and there a small point sticking up above the water.
The land must have sunk, and how we got out of it I don't
know, but now I think it was there or there abouts that Mother
and I got our start of rheumatism.
The next place I think was Garden Grove, a most beautiful
place. (East fork of Grand river 145 miles from Nauvoo. ar
34 PIONEERING THE WEST
rived April 24th.) The wagons were all placed in a row side
by side with room to pass between them. There was a bowery
built along the front and the tongue of each wagon was tied
to it, thus making a long shady lane.
I went with some other boys with some men that were
getting brush for the top of the bowery, and when we got to
the Grove that was on the lower ground, I thought it was the
prettiest place I had ever seen. I and the rest of the boys
wanted to run into the edge of the timber. There was no under
brush and there was a nice grass sod all over, under the trees,
making it a boy's paradise play-ground, but the men would
not let us go out of their sight, saying there was lots of wild
animals in there, and when they had their loads ready made
us go to camp with them.
*In addition to what Howard R. has said in the proceeding
paragraphs the compiler adds the following: The family moved
with the general exodus of the Saints about the 1st of March,
1846, the first campanies crossing the Mississippi river from
Nauvoo to Montrose upon the ice, led by Brigham Young,
H. C. Kimball and others of the Twelve, it being the start of
the emigrating of the Latter-day Saints from the State of
Illinois. At that time there was no definite plan as to the
future destination of the people. There had been vague ideas
afloat of Oregon, Vancouver and Upper California as probable
places of refuge. The only guide was the more or less unde-
fined plans of the Prophet Joseph Smith, of migrating to the
West in the midst of the Rocky Mountains.
The first camping place was on Sugar Creek, where the
Saints were organized by Pesident .Young. The roads were
almost impassable, and the Saints suffered much from cold
and exposure. They reached Garden Grove, on a fork of Grand
River, 145 miles from Nauvoo, April 24th, and May llth went
on to Mt. Pisgah. 172 miles from Nauvoo. Here, May 21st, a
general council of the camps had under consideration the sub-
ject of sending an expedition company to the Pocky Mountains
that year, but the call for 500 men by the Government to fight
with Mexico, made that impossible. Four companies were raised
on the 13th and the fifth a few days later.
They left this place June 5th and arrived on the banks of
the Missouri River, (Council Bluffs) , on the 14th. The last
company of the Mormon Battalion left the camps of the Saints
July 22nd and started for Fort Levenworth. A boat was built
and some of the Saints crossed the river, but Cutler's Park
became the first temporary head-quarters of the camps, which
is three miles from the spot where Winter-Quarters was after-
wards built. Dates from Jensen's Church Chronology.
PIONEERING THE WEST 15
3. -*TRIP TO SANTA FE AND RETURN.
"After Col. Allen died, Aug. 23rd, 1846, at Fort Levenworth,
by suggestion of Maj. Horton, Lieut. Pace returned to Council
Bluffs, bearing letters from Lieut. Smith and Dr. Sanderson,
Gulley and others to Pres. Young. He arrived at Cutler's Creek
Aug. 26th, sat in council, answering questions and received
letters of special council for the Battalion, which was some 45
miles out beyond Fort Levenworth continuing on their march.
Howard Egan and John Lee accompanied him on his return
with a special duty of going on with the Battalion until they re-
ceived their pay and to return with it," and to act as special
messengers returning from the Battalion. On reaching Fort
Levenworth, Maj. Horton charged them to keep with one train
until they were sure of reaching another the same night. Fresh
horses and all the grain the carriage could haul were furnished,
also three packages of letters for different commands were
sent. They left the Garrison at Fort Levenworth on the 6th
of Sept. and overtook the Battalion on the llth, while crossing
the Arkansas River." The above is gleaned from the "History of
the Mormon Battalion," and the following is some of the head-
ings of chapters of the same work during the travel to Santa Fe.
"Wagon upset and man injured Higgins detatchment sent
to Peublo Dissatisfaction Alva Phelps drugged to death
Suffer from thirst Forced marches men salivated. Rations
reduced Bones of mule found Ancient Ruins Rush on to Santa
Fe Sick left to follow without a doctor Arrived at Santa Fe
Partiality shown. Col. Cooke takes command of Battalion. By
special arrangemnts and consent the Battallion boys were paid
in checks not available at Santa Fe.
"About noon Oct. 19th we took leave of Howard Egan and
John Lee, who started with our checks for Council Bluffs. They
were accompanied by S. L. Gulley, ex-quartermaster and R.
Stevens. The Battallion continued on the same day."
The following from the Deseret News copied from the
journals kept by some of the boys adds a little more information.
"Friday Oct. 16th. In the afternoon Company B. drew 1%
months pay, $2.60 to each person in money, the rest in check.
Oct. 17th. Bros. Lee and Egan were making preparations to
return to the Bluffs. They received about $4000 from the Bat-
tallion to take back with them to the Church.
About a month later, Nov. 21st, John Lee and Howard Egan
arrived at Winter Quarters, as special messengers from the camps
of the Mormon Battalion beyond Santa Fte."
Either before or after this trip he estab'ished his family
in Winter Quarters. "The settlement consisted of 700 houses
of log, turf and other materials; and was laid out with streets,
16
PIONEERING THE WEST
workshops, mills, etc., and a Tabernacle of worship. Winter
Quarters was on a pretty plateau overlooking the river, anc
was built for protection from Indians. There were 22 Ward:
with a bishop over each, also a High Council; and the popu
lation was over 4000." So says Whitney's History.
Howard Egan's log hut was neatly arranged and papered
and hung with pictures and otherwise decorated by his wife
which made it very pleasant and habitable. Having given this
little prelude of the facts that we are acquainted with we no"H
present the Pioneer trip in the language of Howard Egan as
he wrote it from day to day as they proceeded on their journey
We do not try to contract or expand or change diction onlj
to give just what he intended to say.
We first, however, insert the Pioneer poem and the names
of the original band of 144 Pioneers called and chosen to leac
out in this pioneering work, just as they were written down ii
his Diary including Ellis Ames, who returned on account of sick
ness, but the Diary states it was a lack of faith. Also including
the three women and two children that went along with them.
S. F. KIMBALL,
Bom at Winter Quarters. Author
of poem, "The Pioneers."
1' I ( ) X !: K R I X G T H K W K S T 17
4. THE PIONEERS.
By Solomon F Kimball
1 'a i th t'nl, noble men of worth.
Men who came of Pilgrim birth.
Who were sent from courts above, on their mission to the earth;
Sent to plant the family tree.
Xear the shores of Salt Lake Sea,
And to build their happy homes and family hearth.
First there came that bitter test.
Martyred Prophets laid to rest :
Then with hearts extremely sad, in God's Temple ihey were
ble-ssM;
Then they turned their backs on home,
Faced the land where redmen roam.
And departed on their journey to the Avest.
O'er mountains they would go,
Through the brush, and through the snow ;
Braving dangers night and day, as they faced the savage foe;
iM-ivinu 1 o'er the rugged heights,
Standing guard on stormy niiihts,
Nothing daunted, nothing fearing, weal or woe.
Trailing through the dust and heat.
With but scanty food to eat;
Tramping o'er the rocky hills, with their bruised and bleeding
feet;
Oft they crossed the raging streams,
With their gall'd and jaded teams.
Oft they pushed their way through drenching rain and sleet.
When they reach 'd the salted sea,
Loud they shouted, "Vic-to-ry!"
Then they call M on (Jod in prayer, with bow'd head and bended
knee;
Then they made the welkin rinsr.
And his praises they did simr.
Tn Hie promised land that Tie had made so free.
18
PIONEERING THE WEST
5. ORIGINAL BAND OF 144 PIONEERS
With Three Women and Two Children.
FIRST TEN.
1 Wilford Woodruff
(captain).
2 John S. Fowler.
3 Jacob D. Burnham.
4 Orson Pratt.
5 Joseph Egbert.
6 John M. Freeman.
7 Marcus B. Thorpe.
8 George A. Smith.
9 George Wardle.
SECOND TEN.
10 Ezra T. Benson
(captain).
11 Thomas B. Grover.
12 Barnabas L. Adams.
13 Roswell Stevens.
14 Amasa M. Lyman.
15 Starling G. Driggs.
16 Albert Carrington.
17 Thomas Bullock.
18 George W. Brown.
19 Willard Richards.
20 Jesse C. Little.
THIRD TEN.
21 Phineas H. Young
(captain).
22 John Y. Green.
23 Thomas Tanner.
24 Brigham Young.
25 Addison Everett.
26 Truman 0. Angell.
27 Lorenzo D. Young.
28 Bryant Stringham.
29 Joseph S. Scofield.
30 Albert P. Rockwood.
FOURTH TEN.
31 Luke S. Johnson
(captain).
32 John G. Holrnan.
33 Edmund Ellsworth.
34 Alvarus Hanks.
35 George R. Grant.
36 Millen Atwood.
37 Samuel B. Fox.
38 Tunis Rappleyee.
39 Eli Harvey Peirce.
40 William Dykes.
41 Jacob Weiler.
FIFTH TEN.
42 Stephen H. Goddard
(captain).
43 Tarlton Lewis.
44 Henry C. SherAvood.
45 Zebedee Coltrin.
46 Sylvester H. Earl.
47 John Dixon.
48 Samuel H. Marble.
49 George Schales.
50 William Henri e.
51 William A. Empey.
SIXTH TEN.
52 Charles Shumway
(captain).
53 Andrew P. Shumway
54 Thos. Woolsey.
55 Chauncey Loveland.
56 Erastus Snow.
57 James Craig.
58 Wm. Wordsworth.
59 Wm. P. Vance.
60 Simeon F. Howd.
61 Seeley Owen.
PIONEERING THE WEST
L9
SEVENTH TEN.
62 James Case
(captain).
63 Artemas Johnson.
64*Wm. C. A. Sraoot.
65 B. F. Dewey.
66 Wm. Carter.
67 Franklin G. Losee.
68 Burr Frost.
69 Datus Ensign.
70 Franklin B. Stewart.
71 Monroe Frink.
72 Eric Glines.
73.0zro Eastman.
EIGHTH TEN.
74 Seth Taft
(captain).
75 Horace Thornton.
76 Stephen Kelsey.
77 John S. Eldredge.
78 Charles D. Barnum.
79 Alma M. Williams.
80 Rufus Allen.
81 Robt. T. Thomas.
82 Jas. W. Stewart.
83 Elijah Newman.
84 Levi N. Kendall.
85 Francis Boggs.
86 David Grant.
NINTH TEN.
88 Howard Egan
(captain).
87 Heber C. Kimball.
89 William A. King.
90 Thomas P. Cloward.
91 Hosea Cushing.
92 Robt. Biard.
93 George V. Billings.
94 Edson Whipple.
95 Philo Johnson.
96 Wm. Clayton.
TENTH TEN.
97 Appleton M. Harmon
(captain).
98 Carlos Murray.
99 Horace K. Whitney.
100 Orson K. Whitney.
101 Orrin P. Rockwell.
102 Nathaniel T. Brown.
103 R. Jackson Redding.
104 John Pack.
105 Francis Pomeroy.
106 Aaron F. Farr.
107 Nathaniel Fairbanks.
ELEVENTH TEN.
108 John S. Higbee
(captain).
109 John Wheeler.
110 Solomon Chamberlain.
111 Conrad Kleinman.
112 Joseph Rooker.
113 Perry Fitzgerald.
114 John H. Tippetts.
115 James Davenport.
116 Henson Walker.
117 Benjamin Rolfe.
TWELFTH TEN.
118 Norton Jacobs
(captain).
119 Charles A. Harper.
120 George Woodard.
121 Stephen Markham.
122 Lewis Barney.
123 George Mills.
124 Andrew Gibbons.
125 Joseph Hancock.
126 John W. Norton.
THIRTEENTH TEN.
131 John Brown
(captain).
127 Shadrach Roundy.
129 Levi Jackman.
PIONEERING THE WES T
130 Lyman Curtis.
128 Hans C. Hanfeen.
132 Matthew Ivory.
133 David Powers^
134 Hark Lay (colored).
135 Oscar Crosby (colored).
FOURTEENTH TEN.
136 Joseph Matthews
(captain).
137 Gilroid Summe.
138 John Gleason.
139 Charles Burke.
140 Alexander P. Chessley.
141 Rodney Badger.
142 Norman Taylor.
143 Green Flake (colored).
144 Ellis Ame-3 (returned),
1 Harriet Page Wheeler
Young.
2 Clara Decker Young.
3 Ellen Sanders Kimball.
*Isaac Perry Decker.
*Lorenzo Sobieski Young.
Survivores are designated *.
On the Way.
PIONEERING THE WEST 21
6. A DIARY KEPT BY HOWARD EGAN t
one of the Pioneers of J847.
FROM WINTER QUARTERS (FLORENCE. NEBRASKA) TO GREAT
SALT LAKE VALLEY AND RETURN TO SWEETWATER.
SEC. II. DETAILS OF TRIP TO SALT LAKE.
Thursday, April 8th, 1847. We started for the west to find
a home for the Latter-day Saints, and went out as far as the
Haystacks, about three miles, where the rest of the boys had
already preceded us. Brigham Young's camp was about four
miles ahead. Soon after we arrived, Porter Rockwell came up
on horseback and informed us that P. P. Pratt had just arrived
at Winter Quarters from England, and that O. Hyde and John
Taylor were <oon expected. We went back home in the carriage
i" pass the night, in- company with Heber, Bishop Whitney, Sis-
ter Kimball and Horace.
Friday, April 9th. It was fine weather for traveling, and
we went back to where we left our wagons and continued i-ur
journey. Wm. Kimball went with us and intends going as far
as the "Elkhorn. " We went about four miles and came to
Brigham Young's camp, but did not stop, going on three miles
further- and encamped for the night, having made ten miles.
Saturday, April 10th. It Avas a fine day, as usual, and we
traveled fifteen miles and encamped on the prairie near a ravine,
which supplied us with Avater, for the night, we being now six
miles from the "Horn" river.
Sunday, April llth. There was fine weather, and we started
in good season and arrived at the "Horn" about 2 o'clock p. m.
There were ~'2 wagons crossed the river on a raft drawn by cat-
tle with ropes on either side. Brother Bullock, Dr. Richards'
clerk, took down the number of the wagons as they passed. We
went down the river about a mile, after crossing, and encamped
for the night. Father (*H. C. Kimball) told the brethren of his
company that he hoped that they would not go hunting or fish-
ing today, for if they did they would not prosper, as this was a
day set apart for the service of the Lord and not for trivial
amusements.
Monday, April 12th. It was fair weather, and I 'res. Briir-
ham Young, Father rllobrr ( '. Kimball). Bishop Whitney and
22
PIONEERING THE WEST
a number of others went back to Winter Quarters, the rest of
us going on, by counsel, in order to cross an extensive bottom
of twelve miles before the water should rise and the roads get
muddy. Accordingly we went on and encamped on the banks of
the Platte river, the width of which much surprised me. it being
larger than I had anticipated. Here we intend to remain until
the Twelve Apostles return. The brethren were called together
this evening by S. Markham, w T ho stated to them that it was the
wish of the Twelve that some men familiar with the route should
go ahead and survey the track. Accordingly, Father (James)
Case, J. Redding and two others will start tomorrow for that
purpose.
Gathering on the Ells. Horn River.
Tuesday, April 13th. This morning was warm and pleasant,
the wind being west. The blacksmiths put up their forges, three
in number, Brothers Devenport, Frost and Tanner, and com-
menced setting tires and shoeing horses. With the assistance
of the boys I propped up my wagon box and took out the run-
ning gears, and Brother Harper went to work and put in two
new axcltrees. Those who went to hunt out the road returned
this evening and reported unfavorable, as there was a low, flat
bottom that could not be crossed in wet weather. It has the
appearance of rain this evening. The wind shifted to the east
and it looked cloudy. Brother S. Markham called the brethren
together and gave some general instruction and placed the guard.
PIONEERING THE WEST 23_
Wednesday, April 14th. This morning it was raining, but
about 10 a. m. it cleared off, there being high winds and some-
what cloudy. J. Higby, J. Redding and four or five others went
up the river with the ^eine to hunt a place to fish, and returned
in the evening with about two dozen fish. My horses strayed
away and 1 took Brother Redding 's horse and went across to-
wards the "Horn" and found them, one of which I succeeded in
eatehing; the other I could not, but had to return without her
to the camp.
Thursday, April 15th. This morning was cool and pleasant.
Brother King and myself started early in search of my horse
and found her ten miles from the camp. Some of the brethren
went across to the "Horn" to fish. About 3 p. m. the Twelve,
Brother Clayton, Brother Whitney, Brother Little, from New
Hampshire, Brother Bullock, Wm. Kimball and others returned
to the camp and we commenced forthwith to rig up our wagons.
About sundown President Young called the brethren together
and instructed them to have a care of their teams, and cease all
music, dancing and lightmindedness ; and instructed them, ex-
horted them to prayer and faithfulness. He also stated that the
traders and missionaries were stirring up the Indians to plunder
us of our horses and goods. He said that if we were faithful
and obeyed counsel the Lord would bless us and we should pass
through safe.
Tuesday, April J6th. This morning the wind was north and
it was cloudy. Brothers Little, Rockwood and Redding went to
Winter Quarters to bring on Brother Little's things. At 7:30
the brethren were called together in order to organize them. The
meeting was opened by prayer by President Young, after which
G. A. Smith made some remarks; also H. C. Kimball, N. K.
Whitney and others. The camp was divided into two divisions,
72 in each division ; A. P. Rockwood captain of the First and S.
Markham of the Second Division. Night guard was started and
on the 17th the camp was organized under regiment. On the
18th the Council of Captains made laws regulating the camp as
follows :
LAWS OR RULES.
1. After this date the horn or bugle shall be blown every
morning at 5 a. m.. when every man is expected to arise and
prav; then attend to his team, get breakfast and have every-
thing finished so that the camp may start by 7 o'clock.
2. Each extra man is to travel on the off side of the team
with his gun on his shoulder, loaded, and each driver have his
gun so placed that he can lay hold of it at a moment's warning.
24 PIONEERING THE WEST
Every man must have a piece of leather over the nipple of his
gun, or if it is a flintlock, in the pan, having caps and powder-
flask ready.
3. The brethren will halt for an hour about noon, and they
must have their dinner ready cooked so as not to detain the
camp for cooking.
4. When the camp halts for the night, wagons are to be
drawn in a circle, and the horses to be all secured inside the
circle when necessary.
5. The horn will blow at 8 :30 p. m., when every man must
return to his wagon and pray, except the night guard, and be in
bed by 9 o'clock, at which time all fires must be put out.
6. The camp is to travel in close order, and no man to
leave the camp twenty rods without orders from the Captain.
7. Every man is to put as much interest in taking care of
his brother's cattle, in preserving them, as he would his own,
and no man will be indulged in idleness.
8. Every man is to have his gun and pistol in perfect order.
9. Let all start and keep together, and let the cannon bring
up the rear, and the company guard to attend it, traveling along
with the gun, and see that nothing is left behind at each stopping
place.
INVENTORY.
The number of oxen in the camp Go, horses 89, mules 52,
cows 19, dogs 17. Teams belonging to H. C. Kimball : Horses
5, mules 7, oxen 6, cows 2, dogs 2, wag'ons G. List of provisions :
Flour 1228 Ibs., meat 865 Ibs., sea biscuit 125 Ibs., beans 296 Ibs.,
bacon 241 Ibs., corn for teams 2869 Ibs., buckwheat 300 Ibs., dried
beef 25 Ibs., groceries 290% Ibs., sole leather 15 Ibs., oats 10 bus.,
rape 40 Ibs., seeds 71 Ibs., cross-cut saw 1, axes 6, scythe 1, hoes
3, log chains 5, spade 1, crowbar 1, tent 1, keg of powder 25 Ibs.,
lead 20 Ibs., codfish 40 Ibs., garden seeds 50 Ibs., plows 2, bran
3^/2 bus., 1 side of harness leather, whip saw 1, iron 16 Ibs.,
nails 16 Ibs., 1 sack of salt 200 Ibs., -saddles 2, tool chest worth
$75, 6 pair of double harness worth about $200, total amount of
breadstuff 2507 lb?. at $55.40, 241 Ibs. of bacon at 6c, $14.46 ;
2869 Ibs. feed corn $28.69; 300 Ibs. seeds $3.00, 300 Ibs. buck-
wheat $6.00. 25 Ibs. dried beef $3.121-2, groceries $35, sole
leather $4, oats $4, rape $10. seeds $10, hoes $2, axes $8, keg
of powder $10, lead $2, codfish $2, 200 Ibs. salt $8, tool chest
$75, cross-cut saw $5, whip saw $5. scythe $2, hoes $1.50, 5 log
chains $20, spade $2, crowbar $3, 2 piows $24, side of harness
leather $4. 16 Ibs. iron $2, 16 Ibs. nails $2, tent $10, harness $20,
5 horses $360, 7 mules $350, 6 wagons $600, 2 saddles $30; bran
$1, 3 .yoke of cattle $120, 2 cows $24. Total $1592.87y 2 .
PIONEERING THE W K S T 25_
After the organi/ation we prepared for traveling. Brother
Whitney. Win. Kimball. and Lyniaii Whitney prepare.! to return
home. Father Kimhall t<;ok William into the wa-^oii and blessed
him. William was very much affected. About ;> p. m. we moved
off and traveled three miles and encamped for the night. About
dark the wind blew up from the north very cold. We took our
horses and cattle d\vn in the timber and cut down trees and
made a fence to put our horses in, and placed a guard around
them, selected for that purpose, aside from the regular camp
guard.
Saturday, April 17th. This morning was cold and the
wind northwest. At 9 o'clock we started on our journey, the
wind blowing- very strong, which made it very disagreeable, as
it was a sandy road. We came seven miles and encamped near
a beautiful grove of cottonwood. This evening a trader from
the Pawnee village encamped near us. He had one wagon
loaded with buffalo robes. At sundown the bugle sounded for
the brethren to come together. President Young said it was
necessary to have a military organization before we left this
place. It was moved and carried that the two divisions be
formed into one regiment, under Colonel Markham. There were
also two majors appointed, John Pack and Shadrack Roundy,
and Thomas Tanner to take command of the camp. Each cap-
tain was to command his own ten in cas.e of an attack from
the Indians.
Father (*Heber C.) Kimball has taken Brother William
Clayton into his mess. Sister Ellen Sanders and myself, with
others, make up the mess, and I thank the Lord for the privi-
lege of being one of the number and enjoying the society of
my father Heber. Ellis Ames returned from this plac^ in con-
sequence of sickness, so he said, but I think he is weak in the
faith.
Sunday, April 18th. This morning there was high winds
from the south and very cold. Today, being the day set apart
by the Almighty God for His people to rest, we do not intend
to travel. Three wagons loaded with furs passed this morning;
also four or five pack mules, a short time afterward, going to
the settlements. H. C. Kimball wrote a letter to his companion
this morning and sent it by Brother Ames, the contents of which
I heard read and it done my heart good. It portrayed the feel-
ings of his heart and his affection for his family, in the most
simple and beautiful language that would touch the soul and
cause the heart to rejoice.
The wind continued to blow so hard, and it was so cold, it
was thought wisdom not to call the brethren together to have
26 PIONEERING THE WEST
meeting. The Twelve retired back in the woods to council one
with the other. About sundown President Young- called the
Captains together and gave them the following instructions:
At 8:30 p. m. the bugle would sound and all should retire to
their wagons and bow before the Lord and offer up their sup-
plications before going to bed, and all fires should be put out;
also the bugle would sound at 5 a. m., when all would arise
and offer up their thanks to the Lord, and at 7 o'clock be ready
to start. All the spare hands were to walk by the off side of
their wagons with their rifles loaded. The weather continues
very cold.
Monday, April 19th. This morning the weather was fair,
calm and pleasant. At 5 a. m. the bugle sounded for all hands
to turn out and return thanks to the Lord. At 7:30 the camp
was in motion with orders to travel in double file. We passed
over a beautiful level prairie in sight of the Platte river, and
passed a number of small lakes between us and the river. The
brethren shot a number of ducks as we passed along. At 1:30
p. m. we stopped to feed near a bend in the river, after travel-
ing thirteen miles. While there 0. P. Rockwell, J. Redding,
Brother Little and Thomas Brown arrived from Winter Quar-
ters and brought a number of letters for the brethren. I re-
ceived one from Brother Jacob Feryier, who has my thanks
for his kindness. I also heard that my family was all well,
which I thank the Lord for. At 2:40 p. m. we started on our
journey and came eight miles and encamped in a circle, in order
to have our horses and cattle in the center to secure them from
the Indians, with the guard placed outside of the wagons. This
evening looks cloudy and the wind blows fresh from the north.
Brother John Rigby and several others went down the river
two miles with the boat and seine to seek a place to fish, and
after being gone about two hours returned with only two fish.
I had the pleasure this evening of sitting in Brother Horace
Whitney's wagon to write. Brother Harper gave Father
(*Heber C.) Kimball two ducks he shot today. Brother Kirn-
ball gave one of them to President Young. Brother Hanson
also let him have two snipes.
Tuesday, April 20th. This morning I arose at 4:30 a. m.
and took my horses out to feed and then commenced getting
breakfast at 6:30. We made a first-rate breakfast of our wild
fowls. At 7 :30 w r e started, it being clear weather but very high
winds from the southwest.. We traveled about six miles and
crossed a small stream called Shell creek, about two miles from
the Platte river, then went on about four miles and stopped to
feed, which made ten miles this forenoon. Three deer ran past
PIONEERING THE WEST 27
our camp within a half mile. Brothers Porter and Brown ran
them with their horses, but could not get within gunshot of
them. -I. Higby, L. Johnson and S. Markham and some others
started a half hour ahead this morning, with the boat and seine
and throe wajrons with them, to fish. President Young and H.
('. Kimlmll went ahead this afternoon to pick out a camping
place. Alx>ut 4 :'>(> p. m. we arrived at the spot, after traveling
ten miles. It is a beautiful place near the banks of the river.
We took our horses across a small branch of the river,
where there was plenty of cottonwood for them, and then put
our oxen arid cows inside of the circle. Those who went fishing
returned with a large quantity of fish that they caught in a
small lake one mile above where we are encamped. I cooked
one for supper, a large buffalo fish. President Young came
into our wajron and ate supper with Father (*Heber C.) Kim-
ball. This evening the wind blows fresh from the northwest.
Father Kimball sits close by me writing a letter to his com-
panion. Tt is about 10 p. m. ; Dr. Richards has just come to
our wagon to inquire for Brother Markham. They thought, as
the Pawnees were encamped only eight miles from us, it was
necessary to have a patrol guard out tonight.
Wednesday, April 21st. It is cloudy weather and has the
appearance of rain, with wind from the northeast. At 7 a. m.
the bugle sounded for the ox teams to start, and at 7:30 we
started. The horse teams started about two hours after we
started. We met five or six Pawnee Indians. We traveled
about eight miles and came in sight of the Pawnee village. Two*
of the chiefs and a number of the Indians came to our camp..
Father Kimball gave them some tobacco and salt. President
Young gave them some powder and lead and other things. They
manifested some dissatisfaction because they did not receive
more presents, and told us we must go back. We paid no atten-
tion to them. At 2 p. m. we continued our journey and traveled
ten miles. About twenty minutes after we started we had a
severe thunderstorm and rain fell in torrents, which lasted about
thirtv minutes, and it blew a gale all the afternoon from the
northwest. At 5 p. m. we encamped near the Loop Fork, which
is a larire stream that empties into the Platte. About sundown
the busle sounded for all the brethren to come together. Col-
onel Markham called off 100 men to stand guard, 50 the first
part of the nisrht and 50 the latter part. Porter Rockwell took
charge of ten men as picket guard. I stood guard until 10 p. m.
It was a bitter cold night.
Thursday, April 22d. It continues cold with wind north-
east. We traveled two miles and crossed a small stream called
_28 PIONEERING THE WEST
the Looking Glass creek. We went on eight miles and stopped
to feed near a stream called Bear creek, making ten miles this
forenoon. At 2 o'clock we hitched up and started. We were
under the necessity of having men on the opposite side of the
creek we were crossing, with a rope to help our wagons up, as
the bank was so steep we could not get up without help.
This afternoon we traveled through a beautiful country,
with the Loop Fork on one side and a ridge on the other and
groups of trees that resembled orchards in an old settled coun-
try. We came seven miles and stopped at the old Missionary
station that was vacated last summer. The Sioux Indians drove
them off. There is quite a large farm fenced in and some very
good buildings on it. We had plenty of corn fodder and hay
for our teams. It is the prettiest location that I have seen this
side of the Mississippi river. In the latter part of the day the
wind moderated and this evening it is warm and pleasant. Cap-
tain Tanner exercised his men at the cannon. President Young
called the brethren together and forbid them taking anything
off of the premises. Twenty men was thought sufficient tonight
to guard the camp.
Friday, April 23d. This morning was warm and pleasant.
Brigham. Heber and others started on at 7 :45 a. m. to look out
a fording place to cross the Loop Fork. While they were gone
Sister Ellen and myself took the opportunity to wash. They
returned at 11 :45 a. m. and reported that we could go about four
miles and build a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to build
it. About 1 o'clock the wagons started and we crossed a small
creek, soon after, called Plum creek. We traveled about two
miles and crossed another stream. I could not find out the
name. Father Kimball said to call it Looking Glass creek, be-
cause it was very clear.
At 3 p. m. we arrived at the fording place and found that
a raft could be of no use and concluded to ford it. Luke John-
son was the first that crossed the river. He took the boat off
and crossed with an empty wagon. Brother Orson Pratt took
out part of his load and got about half way across and could
not get any further. Four or five of us waded out to his as-
sistance. The water in some places was waist deep. Brigham
came as near as he could with the boat and we took the valuable
part of his load and put it on board and went on a little far-
ther, when one of his horses fell down. It was with difficulty
we saved them. We loosened them from the wagon and hauled
it over by hand. Brothers Pack and Woodruff crossed safe.
President Young ordered them to stop crossing wagons today.
P J ( ) X K K K I X G T HE WEST 29
We went about a half mile up the river and encamped till morn-
ing, which was at 5:30 p. m. The day was very hut.
A little after dark President Young called the captains to-
gether to council which was the best way to cross the river.
Brother Knckwood motioned to build three rafts to take across
the goods, and the empty wagons to ford the river. Brother
Kimball motioned to build one first and try it before there
was any more built, as it was doubtful whether there could be
any used. Brothers Lewis and Woolsey were appointed to take
charge of building the raft. Brother ^Curkham was to go and
pick out the best fording place and stake it out. and drive all
the loose cattle over. The leaders informed us that the sand
would pack down and make better traveling.
Saturday, April 24th. This morning one of President
Young's horses was found dead. He was chained near a large
hole and fell in and choked himself. The morning was very
pleasant. H. C. Kimball and Lorenzo Y'oung went up the river
about a mile to see if they could find a better fording place.
I was requested to go along with them. Brother Wcodard and
myself went across the river, but found some places very diffi-
cult for crossing. On our return we found they had commenced
crossing wagons, about 8 a. m. We took half the load out of
some of our wagons and doubled our teams and crossed without
any difficulty. Brother Kimball marched in the water with
the rest of us. At 3 p. m. all the wagons were over on the
sandbar safe, and at 4 o'clock all were over safe. We started
on again and traveled about three miles southwest, up the river.
It was a sandy bottom and more bare of grass than on the other
side. We encamped on the west side of a small lake, near the
river. There was plenty of sunfish in it. Brother Clayton
caught a mess for us and they were first-rate. All hands were
tired working, crossing over the river. I thank the Lord the
morrow is a day of rest.
Sunday, April 25th. This morning we had fair weather
with wind south. We took all our teams out to feed and left
some hands to watch them. At 5 p. m. a meeting was called
at the wagon of President Young. Remark- were made by sev-
eral and instructions given by President Young* chiefly in refer-
ence to the folly of conforming to Gentile customs on an expedi-
tion of this nature. There Mere eight men selected to hunt on
horses, also to hunt on foot.
Monday, April 26th. This mornine about 3:30 an alarm
was given. The guard on the northwest corner of the camp
discovered some Indians crawling up to the wagons. They fired
at them, when six Indians jumped up and ran. All hands were
_30 PIONEERING THE WEST
up and prepared for action in a few minutes, under their re-
spective captains. Nothing more was seen of the Indians. At
8 a. m. the camp started. There is no road here, consequently
President Young, Kimball and some others went ahead on
horseback to hunt out the best track. We traveled about seven
miles and stopped at 11:30, near some holes of Avater, to feed
our teams. At 1:45 all the wagons were on the way. At
6 :15 we encamped near a small creek, having come seven miles,
which makes fourteen miles today.
About 3 o'clock Brother Matthews was out hunting his
horses and saw a horse at a distance, supposing it to be Brother
Little's, went toward him. Before he got near him the horse
put off at full speed toward the river. He then supposed there
was an Indian on Mm. He returned to the camp and gave the
alarm, when five or six men jumped on their horses and fol-
lowed in the direction, but could not see or hear anything of
the Indian. When they returned President Young and Kim-
ball with some others went out on horseback in search of him
and traveled till 11 o'clock, but could not see anything of him
and returned. Dr. Richard's horse is gone.
Tuesday, April 27th. At 8 :30 a. m. the wagons commenced
moving off. We traveled twelve miles and stopped about 2 :15
p. m., coming nearly a south course. 0. P. Rockwell and
others went back to look for the horses that were lost. We
stopped at noon near a ravine, where feed was very good but
no water. We dug about four feet and got a little water for
our horses. At 3:15 the teams started again. Brother Wood-
ruff and two others shot an antelope. President Young and
Kimball are still ahead. We traveled four miles and encamped
at 5:30 for the night. Soon after we arrived it began to thun-
der and lightning, and gave us a light shower with very heavy
wind. Those who went to hunt the horses returned. They re-
ported that thev went back near where we were encamped April
26th, and saw fifteen Indians well armed. They endeavored to
get near enough to get hold of the horses by pretending friend-
ship, but the brethren would not let them come near. One of
the brethren cocked his pistol and pointed it at one of them,
when they all ran. After they got off a little distance they
turned and fired a shot at the brethren. They did not see the
los^ horses and the shot did not take effect. About the time
the brethren returned, a rifle accidentallv went off, which was
in Brother Brown's wagon, and broke the right fore leg of a
horse. That makes four of the best horses in the camp lost in
the last four days.
Wednesday, April 28th. This morning was fine and pleas-
PIONEERING- THE WEST 31_
ant, and we commenced crossing a small creek about 9 a. m.
The last wagon got over at 10 o'clock. President Young and
Kimball went ahead to point out the track. While we were
crossing the creek Luke Johnson shot the horse that had its leg
broken. We traveled about a south course about eleven miles
and stopped to feed near the main Platte river about 2 :30. At
4 p. m. we started again and traveled four miles and encamped
about 6 o'clock, having traveled fifteen miles today. The even-
ing was cool and cloudy.
Thursday, April 29th. The morning was cool, and we
started to find better feed for our horses, traveling three miles,
and stopped at 6:30 to breakfast. At 8:20 we started and trav-
eled about two miles and crossed a very pretty Mica in of water.
We stopped at 1 p. m. near a lake to feed, having traveled about
ten miles. At 2:30 we started again and traveled about eight
miles, when we stopped at 6 o'clock. The wind was southwest
and cold.
Friday, April 30th. The morning was cool and pleasant.
At 8:20 a. in. we again started, stopping at 12 noon to feed,
near a small creek, having traveled ciu'ht miles. At 1:20 p. m.
we started again, the wind blowing tremendously strong from
the north and very cold. We traveled about eiuht miles and
stopped about ."> p. m. and encamped about two miles from the
river near a bluff, with neither wood nor water. We picked up
some x d r >' buffalo dung, which made a very good fire, and we
dug a well and found plenty of water.
32 PIONEERING THE WEST
7. LARAMIE PLAINS, MAY, 1847.
Saturday, May 1st, 1847. This morning was very cold and,
as feed was very poor, it was now thought best to start before
breakfast, which was done at 5 :20 a. m., stopping at 8 :15 to feed,
having come six miles. Soon after we started this morning we
saw three buffaloes about two miles off on the bluffs. Three
of the brethren went in chase of them on horseback. We could
see a large herd of buffaloes a few miles ahead. At 10:15 we
again started. Those who started after the buffalo early this
morning returned, but they did not kill any. There were seven
or eight hunters picked out to charge on the large herd, some
being footmen scattered out. Before the brethren got to them
they got started by one of our dogs that ran an antelope near
them. H. C. Kimball now started across and headed them off
and killed the first one, and helped to kill two others. Soon
after, H. C. Kimball, S. Rockwood and others returned, and one
of our teams that George Billings drove, was sent out with two
others to bring in the buffalo meat. There was one bull, three
cows and six calves killed.
Brother Joseph Hancock went off early this morning on
foot and has not been seen or heard from up to this evening.
During the afternoon we traveled eight miles, and encamped
about 6:30 near a small lake about a mile above the head of
Grand island. This day w T e traveled about eighteen miles.
Sunday, May 2d, This morning is cold but clear weather,
and the ice is about an inch thick. A buffalo calf came within
a short distance of the camp last night and one of the guards
shot it in the thigh and brought it into the camp alive. Just
before breakfast Brother Hancock came into camp and reported
that he had shot a buffalo yesterday afternoon and got lost.
He was about four miles from the camp, built a fire and cooked
supper; returning on horseback, he shot an antelope on the way.
This morning we cut up a quarter of a buffalo cow and salted
it down.
I started in company with President Young, Fairbanks and
others ahead to hunt a camping ground where we could have
better feed. We returned a little after 2 o'clock p. m. and ate
dinner. At 3 :15 we started, and traveled tw r o miles over a prairie
dog -town. A little after 4 o'clock AVC encamped near a long
lake of clear water. President Young and Kimball with some
PIONEERING THE WEST 33
others went ahead three or four miles to view the country. All
hands were employed putting- up racks t<> .Iry the IjuL'tulo meat.
Monday, May 3d. This morning was cold, and there wa>
ice in the water buckets. The hunters are going out this morn-
ing on !(.<>t. Uroti.ers Tanner and Davenport put their forges
up to n pair mie nf the wagons. We had some of the tires set
on Brother dishing 's wau-on. There was a small party sent on
horseback to hunt the route. At 2:30 p. m. the horsemen re-
t nine, l and reported that Brother Kmpev had discovered a large
war party of Indians in a hollow twelve miles from the camp.
There were orders given for a company of horsemen to start, to
call the hunters back to the camp. About o'clock the last of
them got in safe, bringing two antelope and two calves. The
cannon was taken out in front of the wagons and prepared for
action. There was a round fired about 9 p. m.
Tuesday, May 4th. This morning was fine but cool, wind
being about southwest. About 7:30 a. m. the camp was called
together and instruction was given by President Young in regard
to leaving the wagons, and scattering off hunting, without coun-
cil. A company of ten men was added to the guard. About 9
o 'clock the wagons commenced to cross the lake, near the river.
The wagons were placed four abreast with the cannon in the
rear, and traveled so for about half a day, in order to be pre-
pared if attacked by the Indians. Soon after we started we
discovered three wagons on the opposite bank of the river. They
were traders going to Council Bluffs. There were nine men in
the company and were from Fort Laramie. One of the men came
across to see us. He agreed to carry letters for us to the settle-
ments. Brother Brown and two others went across the river to
carry the letters to his wagon. The river is about two miles
wide at this place but is good fording. I finished writing the
letter I commenced some time since, before they went, and sent
it to my wife. We gave the man some bread and bacon to last
him to the settlements. He said he had not eaten any bread for
a long time:
About 1:20 p. m. we again started and at 3:30 we stopped
to feed, having traveled six miles. While our cattle were feed-
ing the company was called out to drill. We again started and
traveled about three miles and encamped near a creek of good
water. The prairie burned nearly all over. Some few spots
were left that the fire had not touched. The wind was south and
very dusty.
Wednesday. May 5th. This morning was fine and very
pleasant. At 7:30 a. m. we started and traveled over a low, soft
34
PIONEERING THE WEST
prairie, and at 11:30 we stopped to feed. We had come about
nine miles, in a west course, a very strong- wind from the south
blowing. At 1 p. m. we continued our journey. Between 3 and
PIONEERING THE WEST 35
4 o'clock President Young- and Kimball, who had been ahead,
returned and ordered the teams to go back about half a mile
to a small island and encamp for the night, in consequence of
the prairie being on fire ahead. This day there was one cow
and six buffalo calves killed.
Thursday, May 6th. This morning it was thought best to
start before breakfast and go > to where we could find better
feed, and at 6:30 we started. 'Last night the Lord sent a light
shower, which put the fire out and made it perfectly safe to
travel. We came about two miles and stopped to feed. At
8:4.") \\e again started. President Young and Kimball still going
ahead on horseback. We traveled about six miles and found a
little more grass. The feed is very scarce, as the numerous
herds of buffalo eat it close to the ground.
There were orders given that no more game should be
killed, as there was sufficient meat in the camp. While we
were stopping for noon some of our cows took after the buffalo.
President Young and Kimball rode after them and drove them
back. At 1 :30 p. m. we started on and traveled about two miles
and found a lake of pure water. President Young returned to
look for his spyglass he had lost. We encamped at 6:30 near
an island in the river, having come about fifteen miles.
Friday, May 7th. This morning the wind was northwest
and very cold. The camp was called together and measures
taken to raise some horses to haul the cannon, as some of
the horses and cattle had given out. President Young scolded
E. Snow for not taking better care of the cows yesterday. 0.
P. Rockwell went back this morning to hunt President Young's
spyglass. About 10 o'clock the camp started. We traveled
about eight miles and encamped about 2.30 near several islands
in the river. About 4 p. m. Porter returned. He found the spy-
glass. At 6 :30 the company was called out to drill.
Saturday, May 8th. The morning was cold but fine, and
we started at 9 o'clock. We came seven and a half miles and
stopped at 1 p. m. to feed. The prairie on both sides of the
river is literally covered with buffalo. This evening we en-
camped near the river. We took some of our horses on a small
island in the river. Feed is very scarce and very little wood.
We have to use buffalo chips to cook with. The bluffs ahead
appear to run down to the river.
Sunday, May 9th. This morning is very cold and the wind
southeast. At 7:50 we proceeded on and traveled three and a
half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs, and turned
down again towards the river on a low sandy bottom. We en-
PIONEERING THE WEST
camped near some islands and have plenty of wood, but poor
feed. We took our horses on the island and cut down cotton-
wood for them. I went to the south end of the island and
washed myself and changed my clothes. At 3 p. m. the bugle
sounded for the brethren to come together for meeting. Prayer
was offered by Brother Lyman. Brothers Woodruff, Pratt,
Benson and Stevens spoke, and they gave us some very good
instructions. Soon after meeting President Young, Kimball and
some others went a few miles west to view the country.
The evening was cold, with strong wind from the north-
west. President Young ate supper with H. C. Kimball. Ellen
tried to bake some bread, but could not, the wind blew so. I
have to sleep on a chest in the front part of the wagon, cross-
ways, and cannot stretch myself nor keep the clothes over me.
It was so cold tonight, and the wind blowing in the wagon, so
I went to bed with Brothers King and Gushing.
Monday, May 10th. This morning was cool and calm. I
got up this morning at 4 a. m. I had the best night's rest I
have had for some time. I made a fire and put the bread down
to bake, then went to Brother Johnson's wagon to write up my
journal, as I have not much time to do it during the day or
evening. I have to catch most of the time after taking care
of my horses. When the weather gets warmer, I hope I shall
be able to write some early in the mornings. I have so little
time, it accounts for my not writing much. Brother Clayton
has kindl\ 7 let me have his journal to take minutes f.'rom until
I can get time to keep it up every day, which I am very thank-
ful for.
Dr. Richards has deposited a letter in a board prepared
for that purpose, nailed to a long pole, with the distance marked
on it of 316 miles from Winter Quarters. He Avas assisted by
President Young and others. At 9 :05 a. m. the camp proceeded
onward. After traveling about two miles w r e crossed a small
creek, which Brother Kimball named Skunk creek. About this
time we discovered a stray horse coming toward us. The breth-
ren tried to catch it, but he was so wild they could not get near
him. We traveled until 11:55 and found a little better feed,
then stopped for dinner, having come about six miles. The
prairie is low and soft, which makes very heavy traveling,
Some of the brethren shot a buffalo today. At 2 p. m. we con-
tinued our journey, and after traveling' a half mile we crossed
a very bad slough. About 4 p. m. President Young's team gave
out, and many others also. H. G. Kimball rode up to us and
told Brother H. Gushing to take off two of his mules and go
back to "help President Young up. At 4:50 we encamped near
P I O X K E R I X G T H E W E S T 37
an island where we had plenty of <">t ton wood for our horses.
The feed is a little better this evening. 1'or which we thank
the Lord. This day we traveled about ten miles. Some of the
hunters killed a deer. The evening is warn; and pleasant, and
the wind light from the northweM.
Tuesday, May llth. The moining is cold with ea>t wind.
It appears to me that vast herds of buffalo have \\inteie.i
around this place, but have mostly left and gone eastward some
time ago, as we have the full growth of this year'.- irrass. which
is very short. This morning we overhauled our wagon, and
took part of our load and placed it in Brother Ci^shinu '.- \\
At 9:30 a. m. we again started. President Young and Kimball
going: a half hour ahead of us. Our Ten took the lead toda\.
which brought my wnuou first. We traveled five miles and
stopped at 12:20 for a half hour to water and take some dinner.
We traveled on three miles further and eiossed over a creek
of clear water. We traveled on a half mile and stopped, the
feed being pretty good, making eight and one-half miles today.
The water being a half mile off, the brethren dug two wells
about four feet deep and found plenty of good water. This
evening I felt quite sick, having a very bad cold.
Wednesday, May 12th. The morning was very cool, and
we started at 9:10 a. m. and traveled eight miles, and stopped
at 1:12 p. m. to feed. The roads are pretty good and the feed
is a little better. There is a strong wind blowing from the
southeast. H. C. Kimball informed me today that we had
passed the junction of the forks of the river two days ago. The
hunters report that they have seen many dead buffalo between
here and the bluffs with the hides off and the tongues taken
out, which proves that Indians have been here recently, as the
flesh looks fresh as if lately killed. The range of bluffs on each
side of the river extends much farther apart, and near the foot
of the south range can be seen scattering timber, which is an
evidence that the south fork runs along there in the distance.
At 3:30 we again started and traveled four miles, and encamped
again at 5:4.") near a group of small islands. This evening is
cloudy and it looks like rain. Brother Clayton thinks we ;ir-
about fourteen miles above the junction of the north and south
forks of the Platte river. Some of the hunters killed a buffalo
this evening and the remnants were sent out after.
Thursday, May 13th. This morning is very cold ami cloudy
with wind northwest. I went out earlv to take care of my
horses, and went in sight of an Indian camp uTound. There
appeared to be two or three hundred wickiups and, from the
PIONEERING THE WEST
appearance of things, I supposed that they had not been gone
long from there. At 9 a. m. we started and traveled four miles,
nearly a west course, and stopped at 11 a. m. to feed our teams.
The grass continues to get better. The buffalo are not so plenty
here, which accounts for the feed getting better. The wind is
blowing very strong from the north and northeast. At 12 :30
we again moved onward and traveled ten and a quarter miles
and stopped on the west side of a large stream about six rods
wide, which runs from the northeast and empties into the North
fork of the Platte river. The bottom is quicksand and difficult
to cross unles it is crossed over quick. It is about two feet
deep.
We are encamped within a quarter of a mile of the Platte,
and the feed is better here than any we have had since we left
Winter Quarters. I feel much better today, and I thank the
Lord for it. This stream is not laid down on the map. Presi-
dent Young and Kimball traveled ahead as usual, and they re-
ported that the bluffs run down to the river, but they discov-
ered that we could go around the bluffs by going a mile around.
*We are about twenty-five and a quarter miles above the junc-
tion of the North and South forks, a,nd 361 miles from Winter
Quarters, according to AVm. Clayton's account.
Friday, May 14th. The morning is cloudy and very cold,
and streaks of lightning can be seen occasionally in the west.
About 8 o'clock it commenced to rain very heavy, accompanied
with thunder and lightning. Just before it commenced raining
the bugle sounded to gather up our horses. After the storm
ceased we started onward at 10:15, and after traveling a mile
we passed between the high bluffs, our course being north for
some time. After traveling about six and a quarter miles we
stopped to feed at 1:40 p. m. within three-quarters of a mile
the river. We are on the large low bottoms again, and not more
than three miles from where we started this morning. Presi-
dent Young and Kimball went ahead to look out the route.
Brother Higby killed an antelope and a badger. We had a
shower just before we stopped, and now the weather is some
warmer. At 3 p. m. we proceeded on our journey. We went
two and a half miles and stopped at 4:30. President Young
and Kimball returned and thought it was best to encamp, as
there were high ranges of bluffs west of us that extended down
to the river. We made about eight and three-quarters miles
today. The revenue cutter has been dispatched after two buf-
faloes and two antelope that have been killed by the hunters.
There was an alarm given by the guard last night a little before
12 o'clock, and one of them fired at an object he thought to be
PIONEERING THE WEST 39_
an Indian, and those who had horses outside of the circle were
called up to bring them in. It is my opinion that the guard
was mistaken, as we could not see any sign of Indians, neither
could we see any tracks in the sand the next morning.
Brother Wm. Clayton has invented a machine, and at-
tached it to the wagon that Brother Johnson drives, to tell the
distance we travel. It is simple yet is ingenious. He got
Brother Appleton Harmon to do the work. I have understood
that Brother Harmon claims to be the inventor, too, which I
know to be a positive falsehood. He, Brother Harmon, knew
nothing about the first principles of it, neither did he know
how to do the work only as Brother Clayton told him from time
to time. It shows the weakness of human nature. I will give
a description of it hereafter. The camp are all well.
Saturday, May 15th. This morning is cloudy and very cold
and feels like a morning in January, the wind blowing strong
from the north. The brethren who killed the buffalo did not
bring it to the camp last night. They put it in the boat and left
it until morning. It was with difficulty that they found their
way to camp, as it was so dark. They brought it in about 7:30
this morning and divided it to the Captains of Ten. At 8 o'clock
it commenced raining, but cleared off a little before 9, when we
started. After traveling about three-quarters of a mile we be-
gan ascending the sandy bluffs and it commenced raining again,
making it very cold and disagreeable. The road was much of
a zigzag one over the bluffs. We traveled about a mile, the
sand being very deep and heavy pulling for the horses, and
when we ascended a sand bluff we discovered the bottoms just
below. We traveled on the bottoms a little way, when it was
considered best to turn out our teams and not travel in the
rain. It was 10:30 when we stopped.
My wagon being heavily loaded, Brother Kimball told me
to take the mules Brother Johnson worked ahead of his cattle
and put them before my horses. We traveled about two and a
half miles. About noon it cleared off again and the signal was
given to gather up our teams, and at 12:30 we proceeded on
our journey and traveled until 2 :45, the distance being four and
a half miles. About three miles ahead the bluffs appear to run
down to the river. The feed is good, but wood is very scarce
and the buffalo chips are not a very good substitute for wood
when they are wet. This morning I baked some bread and fried
some antelope meat, made some coffee and had a very good
breakfast, all cooked with wet buffalo chips.
Sunday, May 16th. The morning was cold and the wind was
still blowing from the north. The buffalo that was killed yes-
_40 P I X E E K I N G T H E W E S T
terday evening- was divided this morning to the Captain-3 of Tens.
This forenoon my time was principally occupied baking bread
and drying beef. President Young and Kimball with several
others went ahead on horseback to explore the country, and re-
turned this afternoon, reporting that we pass over the bluffs
by going about four miles.
The bugle sounded this afternoon for the brethren to come
together for meeting. Brothers H. C. Kimball, Dr. Richards,
Markham and Rockwood spoke. The principal part of the time
was occupied in exhorting the brethren to faithfulness, and also
to obey the council of those whom God had placed in the Church
to lead and direct the affairs of His Kingdom. Brother Kim-
ball spoke in his usual and interesting and impressive manner,
exhorting the brethren to adhere to council and to be humble
and prayerful, and the Lord would continue to bless us, and
we should be healthy, and not one of us should fall by the way.
He also stated that he had traveled much, but never witnessed
so much union as there was in the camp. He advised the breth-
ren not to hunt on the Sabbath day, w 7 hen there was plenty of
meat in the camp, but said he had no fault to find. He believed
that everybody was trying to do the best they could. He said
that if Ave were faithful the angel of the Lord would go before
us and be around about us to ward off the harm of the de-
stroyer. He knew the Lord was w T ith us, that our teams were
gaining strength and the prayers of the Saints were answered.
He had prayed that the Indians would turn to the right and to
the left that we might pursue our journey in peace, and asked
the brethren if they could get sight of an Indian near? Their
answer was, No. He also cautioned them not to use profane
language, as the angel of the Lord would turn away from a man
that would swear and take the name of the Lord in vain. The
Lord loves a faithful man as a father loves a faithful son. The
Spirit of the Lord rested upon him and he spoke with power,
which cheered my soul.
A number of buffalo herds are in sight, and some of them
are making down the bluffs toward our horses. Brother Eric
Glines went out to stop them, but they still kept on, when he
fired three shots at them, all the shots taking effect on one,
which ran a little way and then fell. Francis (*Boggs) came
with an antelope. The revenue cutter went out and brought the
buffalo in, and it was divided among the camp. I have the
pleasure this eveninsr of writing by the light of a candle made
by Brother Edson Whipple out of buffalo tallow, and it burns
beautifully. The evening was calm and pleasant, and the rules
and regulations for the camp (of April the 18th) were read by
PION K K K I X<; T II K WEST
41
Brother Bullock. President Y<'.inu ami Kimball took a
to the bliit!'^ ,-i))iiui d;iik. :tn<i rctiniK'il ;uid went t President
Young's \v;iui !) :Tii<i remained in council until after 10 p. in.
_42 PIONEERING THE WEST
Monday, May 17th. The morning was cold and chilly and
the wind was northwest. Dr. Richards left another letter on the
camp ground for the benefit of the next company, putting it
up the same as the others. About 8:13, after traveling about a
mile and a half, we arrived at the range of bluffs, which ex-
tended to the river, came about a quarter of a mile and crossed
a stream of fresh spring water about three feet wide. When
we first ascended the bluffs our course was north for a short
distance, but we then turned westward and passed over a num-
ber of sand bluffs. After traveling two and a half miles be-
yond the above mentioned stream we arrived at the west side
of the bluffs, the last part of the road being very sandy with
several very steep pitches to go down. The teams got over
without any difficulty. The grass is very good west of the
bluffs, and about a mile from the bluffs we passed three streams
of spring water. The whole of the bottoms seem to be full of
springs. We have to keep near the bluffs, the bottoms are so
soft and wet. About 11 :45 we stopped to feed, having traveled
about six and three-quarter miles; we encamped about half a
mile west of a stream of spring water, which we crossed.
Brother Bedding and myse]f went back to get some water. We
went to the head of the stream and found five boiling springs,
boiling up several inches. One of Brother Phineas Young's
horses got mired in a swamp where he went in to feed. The
brethren hauled him out with ropes.
This forenoon is warm and pleasant, the first warm day we
have had for some time. At 2 p. m. we proceeded on our jour-
ney and traveled about half a mile, when we came to a stream
of pure water about thirty feet wide and very shallow, and there
was no difficulty in crossing it. We passed over same safe,
some hills a quarter of a mile further, and then came to level
prairie again, which is low and soft. We crossed a number of
small streams which rise from springs near the bluffs. About
3 o'clock word came that there was a buffalo killed by the hunt-
ers about a mile from the camp and two men were sent out to
dress it. About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with
two buffaloes and an antelope. The meat was taken out of the
boat, and a fresh team put on and sent after the other buffalo.
At 4:30 the wagons moved onward and traveled until 6 o'clock,
when we encamped on the wide bottom plain. We have traveled
today about twelve and three-quarters miles in about a Avest
course. We are about a half mile from the river. Brother Har-
ris and myself went down to the river and brought up a keg of
water. The brethren dug several wells. Soon after we arrived
the boat came in with the other buffalo. The meat Avas di\ T ided
PIONEERING THE WEST 43_
.equally among the companies. We are in latitude 41 degrees 12
minutes 50 seconds.
Tuesday, May 18th. The morning was fine and pleasant
.and at 7 o'clock President Young called the Captains of Tens to-
gether and gave them instructions not to let their men kill any
more game, as we had more on hand now than we could take
care of, and for them not to take life merely to gratify their
propensities. He also stated that life was as dear to the animal,
.according to their understanding, as it was to us. That if the
horsemen hunters would go ahead and hunt out the road they
would be of more utility to the camp than pursuing every band
of antelope that passed the camp; that there were men among
us in responsible positions who cared no more for the interest
of the camp than the horses that they rode; that the spirit of
the hunter as was now manifested would lead them to kill all
the game within a thousand miles as inconsistently as the butch-
er would apply the knife to the throat of a bullock. President
Young, after some other remarks, dismissed the captains, tell-
ing them that they must lead their men by their own good
example, for the men would do well if the captains would set
them the proper pattern.
Soon after meeting was dismissed the bugle sounded to
collect our teams. At 8:15 a. m. we proceeded on our journey,
Brigham, Heber and some others going on ahead on horseback-
After traveling three and three-quarters miles a west course
we arrived at a stream twenty or twenty-five feet wide and
about eighteen inches deep, with a very strong current. ' We
gave it the name of Rat Bank creek. From this stream we trav-
eled near the bank of the river, about a northwest course. At
11 :10 a. m. we stopped to feed, having traveled about six and a
half miles. This afternoon has been very hot. We saw several
spots of small cedar trees growing in the sandy crevices of the
rocks opposite here, the head of Cedar bluffs, as named by
Fremont, is three miles west of where we were encamped last
night. We continued our journey, our route lying near the
Isanks of the river. This forenoon we crossed a number of
small streams. We had a little rain this afternoon, accom-
panied with lightning and distant thunder. This afternoon
we traveled nine and a half miles, and during the day fifteen
and three-quarters miles. The feed is not 1 very good here.
This evening Colonel Markham called the camp together
to remind them of their duty in regard to traveling and get-
ting up their teams. After some other instructions the meet-
ing was dismissed. The wind changed to the north and blew
up cold and cloudy.
44 P I O N E E R I N G T PI E W E S T
Wednesday, May 19th. This morning was cloudy and it
rained considerable last night. About 10 o'clock 1 got up to
put the harness under the wagons, H. C. Kimball 's saddle and
other things which would get damaged by rain, when I discov-
ered Brother Jackson Redding, who was captain of the guard,
g*oing around with some of his men picking up the harness
and other things and putting them under cover. Captain
Redding is a faithful, praiseworthy man, and a man who works
for the good of the camp.
As the feed is not good here it was thought best to move
on a few miles before breakfast and find better feed. We
started out about 5:05 and crossed two small streams, travel-
ing three and three-quarters miles and stopped to eat break-
fast. Some of the teams are a quarter of a mile ahead of the
main body of the camp. H. C. Kimball and Brother Woolsey
went ahead to hunt a place where the feed was good. As they
neared the bluffs they discovered that the feed was not so
good, and Brother Kimball sent Brother Woolsey back to tell
the brethren to stop, while he went on to look out the road
through the bluffs. He returned just before \ve started. After
traveling about ten miles alone, he saw a number of wolves,
some of them being very large. He tried to scare them, but
they would not move out of their tracks, and he had no fire-
arms with him. If he had .been afoot I presume they would
have attacked him. Brother Kimball has rode so much ahead
to look out the way for the carnp he has almost broke himself
down and is pretty near sick, but his ambition and the care
he has for the camp keeps him up.
At 8 :40 we again started, came about three miles and began
to ascend the bluffs, which are very steep and sandy. Just
before we came to the bluffs we crossed a stream about twenty
feet wide. We traveled a winding course of about three-quar-
ters of a mile through the bluffs, came 200 yards from the
west side and crossed another small stream. It has rained
heavy all the time since we started after breakfast. About
10:30 the camp halted, having traveled six miles. About 2:30
the weather looked a little more favorable, and we started at
2:55. Soon after we started it commenced raining again very
heavy. We traveled two miles and encamped for the nio-ht
on the banks of the river, having come eight miles today. The
small stream that we crossed west of the bluffs we named Wolf
creek. The evening was cold and cloudy, but it cleared off
about 6 o'clock.
Thursday, May 20th. The morning W ;is cloudy with light
winds from the northwest and cold. We starte 1 about 7:45,
P I O X K K K I X ( I T H E W E 8 T 45
and soon after passed Brother Clayton's wagon. He and
Brother Harmon were repairing: the roadometer, which had
suffered by the rain and broke one of the teeth out of the
small wheel. Three-fourths of a mile from where we started
we crossed a stream eight feet wide and two and a half feet
deep. About 11:1") we halted to feed, having traveled seven
and three-quarter^ miles, tin latter part of the road being very
good. The bluffs on the south side of the river project near
to its banks. They appear rocky, and several beautiful groves
of cedar are growing on them. Brothers O. Pratt, L. Johnson,
A. Lyman and J. Brown went across the river in the boat and
discovered we were opposite Ash Hollow, where the Oregon
road crosses to the North fork of the Platte. Brother Brown
found the grave W!I<M<> he helped to bury an emigrant last sum-
mer when he was going west. The boat returned and we again
moved onward. Some of the brethren killed a large rattle-
snake. This afternoon about three and a half miles from where
we stopped for noon we crossed a stream six or eight rods wide
and two and a half feet deep, the bottom being quicksand and
the current swift. At 5 :30 we encamped, having come eight
miles, which makes fifteen and three-quarters miles during the
day. The road has been very good this afternoon, and the feed
is pretty good. We had a light shower this afternoon, but the
evening is pleasant.
Friday, May 21st. The morning was very calm and pleas-
ant, but tolerably cool. At 7:3.") we proceeded on our journey.
Brother Clayton put up a guide board this morning with the
following inscription on it: "From Winter Quarters, 409 miles;
from the junction of the North and South forks of the Platte,
93*4 miles; Cedar Bluffs on east side of the river, and Ash
Hollow 8 miles ; Camp of Pioneers, May 21st, 1847. Accord-
ing to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Laramie. N. B.
The bluffs on the opposite side are named Castle Bluffs."
We found the prairie very wet and many ponds of water
standing, which must have been caused by the heavy falls of
rain. At 11:15 we stopped for dinner, having traveled seven
and three-quarters miles in a north-northwest course, it being
warm and calm.
President Younir and Kimball rode ahead to pick out the
road. Near this place they saw a not <>t \vi.lves. Thev killed
two of them and three others escaped to their holes. Brother
Kimball oauirlit one of them by the tail and killed him. At
1:30 we proceeded on our journey, and found the prairie very
wei and high grass of last year's .growth. Brother Clayton saw
a very large rattlesnake. At 5 o'clock Brother Kimball stopped
J6 PIONEERING THE WEST
the forward teams to let the rear teams get up, saying that he
saw Indians come down from the bluffs. When the last wagons
got up we traveled on a quarter of a mile and encamped in a
circle, the wagons close together. We have come seven and
three-quarters miles this afternoon, which makes fifteen and a
half miles during the day.
While we were forming- our camp an Indian and his squaw
came near the camp. They were Sioux. They made signs that
there was a party of them on the bluff north of us, not far
distant. President Young ordered them not to bring them into
the camp. The Indian was well dressed. Their horses appear
to b work horses, which I presume they had stolen from some
travelers. The day has been quite warm and some of our teams
lagged a little. Brother Gushing drove my team this afternoon,
while I rode in Brother King's wagon and drove some for him.
The feed is not so good here, there being considerable old grass.
This evening is very pleasant. The latitude at noon was 41
degrees 24 minutes 5 seconds.
Saturday, May 22d. This morning is calm and pleasant;
all is peace and quietness in camp. At 8 o'clock we started on
our journey, and having to bend to the banks of the river made
our road much more crooked than usual. The prairie was soft
and uneven. We traveled about five and a half miles and
crossed a very slow stream about twenty feet wide. The bluffs
are about a mile from the river, and on the south side about
two miles. At 11 :30 we stopped to feed, having come about seven
and a quarter miles, the latter part of the road being much
better. Our course was west-northwest, and a light breeze from
the east was blowing. Brother Kimball and others go ahead as
usual to look out the road. The stream last crossed was named
Crab creek, as some of the brethren had seen a very large crab
in it.
While we were stopped Brother Clayton went up on the
bluffs, which were very high and romantic in their appearance.
He said he could gee Chimney Rock with the naked eye very
plain. He judged it to be about twenty miles distant. We
started again at 1 :30 p. m. and crossed a number of dry creeks
today from one rod wide to six, all appearing to have been very
rapid streams some seasons of the year. We found the prairie
so much broken between the bluffs and the river that it was
impassable with wagons. We traveled a winding course be-
tween the bluffs of about two and a quarter miles, and again
emerged on the bottoms. Between 4 and 5 o'clock this after-
noon the clouds gathered very black from the west, streaks of
lightning can be seen and the distant rumbling of thunder can
* Reading matter on page 48 belongs on page 47
PI O X ]: E K 1 X ( r Til K W K S T 47
northwest, thick black clouds gathered all around us, and about
7 o'clock rain began to pour down, accompanied with thunder
and lightning > n d hail for a short time. We feared for some
time that our waimn to) s should blow off. The rain ceased
about 10 p. m. and the wind continued to blow nearly all night.
We found all things safe in the morning, not sustaining any
damage whatever.
Monday, May 24th. The morning was very col. 1 ., the wind
continuing northwest. At 8:3.") a. m. we started ard traveled
over a level prairie somewhat sandy. At 1M:4~> N e stopped to
feed, having come ton miles. About noon the weather moder-
ated a little. Two Iruians came across the bin its to our camp
on foot. They made signs that we should give them something
to eat and they would go away. Some of the brethren gave
them some bread. They started up the river a little way and
crossed over. At 3 p. m. we proceeded on our journey and
traveled until 6 o'clock, six and a half miles. This afternoon
several of the horse teams gave out. Just before we stopped,
a party of Indians was discovered on the opposite side of the
river. After we camped, which was a quarter of a mile from
the river, we discovered the Indians had a flag flying, which
is their mode of finding out whether they would be admitted
in the camp or not. President Young sent a man up the river
with a white flau 1 , when they all crossed the river on their
ponies, some of them singing. Thev were thirtv-five in num-
ber. Some of them were women. They were all well dressed
and behaved themselves better than any Indians I have ever
seen before. Four of their chiefs came down to the camp.
Colonels Markham and Sherwood showed them around the camp.
They took some provisions to those who were encamped up
the river, and gave the chiefs their supper at the camp. The
brethren put up a tent for the head chief and his squaw to
sleep in. The evening was pleasant, and we left our horses out
until 11 o'clock to feed, with a guard to watch them. H. C.
Kimball's health is very poor and he is unable to ride ahead,
but is confined to his wagon most of the time.
Tuesday, May 25th. The morning was fine and pleasant.
All the Indians, both men and women, came into camp this
morning. Some of the brethren traded horses with them and
bought moccasins from them. At 8:20 we proceeded on our
journey. Soon after we started the Indians left us. Thev ap-
peared, to be well satisfied. They crossed the river and went
in the direction thev came from. After traveling one mile we
ascended a sandy ridge, traveled about three-quarters of a mile
over very deep sand and came on the bottoms again. We came
48 PIONEERING THE W E S T
be heard. It has the appearance of a tremendous storm. About
5 p. m. the Avind blew up strong from the northwest and the
storm passed to the northeast of us. At 5:45 we encamped in
a circle within a quarter of a mile of the river, having come
eight and a quarter miles this afternoon, which make-s fifteen
and a half during the day. I saw a very large rattlesnake this
afternoon.
Wood is very scarce. We find a few sticks along the bank
of the river, which has been drifted there by high water. We
have not seen any buffalo for a number of days, and very little
game of any kind. Some of the brethren brought a young eagle
into camp, which they took out of its nest on the top of one of
the high bluffs. It measured forty-six inches from tip to tip
of its wings when stretched out. The bluffs and peaks have a
very remarkable appearance, the tops being like the ruins of
some ancient city with its castles, towers and fortifications. I
had no time to examine them. Brother Clayton has given a
full description of them, which is very interesting. This even-
ing is very pleasant and all is peace and harmony. The feed is
not very good. The inside of our circle i-3 a solid bed of sand,
and there were four rattlesnakes killed in the camp.
Sunday, May 23d. This morning is very fine and pleasant.
I went down to the river before sunrise and made a fire and
washed some clothes. President Young, Kimball and others
walked up to the bluffs to view them, and returned about 11:30.
Brother Clayton saw an adder about eighteen inches long.
Brother Nathaniel Fairbanks came into camp, having been bit
on the leg with a rattlesnake. He had been up on the bluffs,
and he said he felt the effects of it all o\er his body. Three
minutes after he was bit he felt a pricking in his lungs. They
gave him a dose of Lobelia and some alcohol and water. He
is suffering much from pain.
Brother 0. Pratt said the highest bluff was 235 feet above
the surface of the river. At 12 o'clock the horses were all tied
up and the brethren called together for meeting. After sink-
ing and prayer. Brother E. Snow made some remarks, followed
by President Young. We had a first-rate meeting. Brother
Y 7 oung gave us some glorious instructions, which done my soul
good. He said he was perfectly well satisfied with the con-
duct of the camp and the spirit which thev manifested toward
him and toward one another and all things were going right.
Brother George A. Smith and others made some remarks.
Brother Young 'notified the four Bishons present to prepare
to administer the sacrament on next Sunday at 11 o'clock.
Soon after the meeting the wind blew up very cold from the
P I O X K K R I X (J T H K W K S T
49
two and a half miles and stoppe 1 to feed at 1 1 :!.'. several small
ponds of water being: there. We continued our journey at 1:30
p. m., havirur come four and three-<|ii:u-ter< miles over a low,
soft prairie bottom. By the appearance of it there must have
J>0 PIONEERING THE WEST
been very heavy rains ahead of us. The traveling was very
heavy for our teams, but at 3 p. m. we started on again and
traveled until 5:45, having come four and three-quarters miles,
and twelve miles during the day. We encamped about two
miles from the river. The brethren dug a number of wells and
found very good water. Our camp ground is very low and wet,
which makes it very disagreeable. The evening was very pleas-
ant and the brethren were in good spirits.
Wednesday, May 26th. This morning was calm and pleas-
ant, and at 8 a. m. we proceeded on our journey. After travel-
ing between four and five miles we came to a point directly
opposite Chimney Rock. We had traveled forty-one and a half
miles since it was first seen with the naked eye. At 12 o'clock
we stopped to feed, having come seven and a quarter miles in a
north-northwest course. This forenoon the roads were good.
Brother Kimball rode ahead to look out the way. The hunters
brought in four antelope to camp today.
Brother Pratt ascertained Chimney Rock to be 260 feet
high. It is in about latitude 41 degrees 42 minutes 58 seconds.
At 2 :25 we again started and traveled near the river. We came
five miles and encamped on the bank of the river about 5 p. m.,
having come twelve and a quarter miles during the day. The
feed is better than we have had for a number of days, but wood
was very scarce. Soon after we encamped, a heavy black cloud
arose in the west, which had the appearance of a heavy storm
The wind blew up very strong from the northwest, accompanied
with a few drops of rain. About 6 o'clock it cleared off and
we had a beautiful evening. Some of the brethren were mov-
ing Brother George Billings' wagon and run the wheel over the
young eagle and killed it. Brother Billings discovered that the
end of an axeltree w T as broke, and Brother Harper went to work
on it.
Thursday, May 27th. This morning was very fine and the
scenery was beautiful. The bluffs north of us are about three
miles from the river, the prairie is level and the feed very good.
At 7:50 a. m. we proceeded on OUT journey along the bank of
the river and stopped to feed at 11:45, having come eight miles.
0. P. Rockwell killed two antelope and brought them into camp
and they were divided. There are some heavy thunder clo'uds
in the south and west. At 2 p. m. we again" moved westward,
the prairie being level and the road very good. We passed
Scott's bluffs, which is nineteen and three-quarters miles from
Chimney Rock, between 3 and 4 o'clock. At 4:45 we encamped
a short distance from the river, having come five and three-
quarters miles, which makes thirteen and three-quarters miles
PIONEERING THE WEST
51
during the day. Brother Pratt measured the North fork of the
Platte river with his sextant and found it to be 792 yards wide.
The north peak of Scott's bluffs is in latitude 41 degrees 50
minutes 52 seconds.
Buffalo Hunt Near Scott's Bluffs.
Friday, May 28th. The morning was cool and damp, cloudy
weather, and some rain with wind northeast. At 8 a. m. the
brethren were called together and the question proposed, whether
we should go on or wait for fair weather. All agreed to wait
for fair weather. About 11 o'clock it cleared off, and we gath-
ered up our teams and started.
Before we started Brother Luke Johnson and myself went
up the river about three miles with the cutter in search of wood.
We came to a beautiful clear stream of water about eight feet
wide, and saw large numbers of small fish in it. It is not VIMV
deep, has a gravel bottom and the water tastes very good. It
is about three miles long, rises from springs and runs in a line
with the river for some distance, then takes a turn to the south
and empties into the river.
Part of the road today was sandy. At 4:45 we encamped
near the river, having come eleven and a half miles. The feed
is not so good here, but driftwood is tolerably plenty. The even-
ing was cold and the weather dull and cloudy, with wind north-
east. 0. P. Rockwell and Thomas Brown went out hunting north
of the bluff. The latter saw five or six Indians and the signs
of a large company.
Saturday, May 29th. This morning was cold, wet and
cloudy, with wind northeast, but about 10 a. m. it cleared off.
At 10 :30 the bugle sounded to get up our teams. After we got
all ready to start there was notice given for the brethren to
come together to the boat in the center of the ring. President
Young, taking his station in the boat, ordered the Captains of
PIONEERING THE WEST
Tens to call out their respective companies and see if all their
men were present. He then ordered the clerk to call all the
names to see if they were all present. Joseph Hancock and
Andrew Gibbons were reported to be absent hunting. President
Young- arose and addressed the meeting as follows: (Reported
by Brother Wm. Clayton, who has kindly permitted me to copy
it from the journal.)
Pioneer Sermon by President Young.
"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much like
preaching to the brethren on this mission. This morning I feel
Brigliam Young Before Pioneer Days.
like preaching a little, and shall take for my text, that ; As to
pursuing our journey with the company, with the spirit they
possess, I am about to revolt against it.' This is the text I
feel like preaching on this morning, consequently I am in no
hurry. In the first place, before we left Winter Quarters it
was told the brethren, and many knew it by experience, that
we had to leave our homes, our houses and lands, our all, be-
cause we believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in
these last days. The rise of the persecution against the Church
was in consequence of the doctrine of Eternal Truth taught by
PIONEERING THE WEST 53_
Joseph. Many knew this by experience. Some lost their hus-
bands, some lost their wives, and some their children through
persecution. And yet we have not been disposed to forsake
the Truth and mingle with the Gentiles, except a few, who have
turned aside and gone away from us. And \ve have learned in
a measure the difference between a professor of religion and
a possessor of religion, before we left Winter Quarters.
"It was told the brethren that we were going to look out
a home for the Saints, where they could be free from persecu-
tion by the Gentiles, where we could dwell in peace and serve
God according to the Holy Priesthood, where we could build up
the Kingdom so that the nations would begin to flock to our
standard. I have said many things to the brethren about the
strictness of their walk and conduct, when we left the Gentiles ;
and told them we would have to walk uprightly or the law would
be put in force, and many have turned aside through fear.
"The Gospel does riot bind a good man down, and deprive
him of his rights and privileges; it does not deprive him of en-
joying the fruits of his labors ; it does not rob him of blessings ;
it does not stop his increase; it does not diminish his kingdom;
but is calculated to enlarge his kingdom as well as to enlarge
his heart; it is calculated to give to him privileges, and power,
and honor, and exaltation, and everything which heart can de-
sire in righteousness all the days of his life. And then, when
he gets exalted in the eternal worlds, he can still turn around
and say: 'It hath not entered into the heart of man to con-
ceive the <?lory, and honor, and blessings, which God hath in
store for those who love and serve him.'
"T % want the brethren to understand and comprehend the
principles of Eternal Life, and watch the Spirit, be wide awake,
and not be overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits
of the Spirit, but you cannot see the Spirit itself. With the
natural eye you behold it not. You can see the result of yield-
ing to the evil spirits and what it will lead you to, but you do
not see the spirit itself, nor its operations only by the spirit
that i* in you.
"Nobody has told me what was going on in this camp, but
I have known it all the while. I have been watching its move-
ments, its influence, its effects; and I know the result of it. if
it is not put a stop to. T want you to understand tliat, inasmuch
as we are beyond the power of the Gentiles, where the devils
have tabernacles in the priests and all the people; but we are
beyond their reach, we are beyond their power, we are bevond
their grasp: and, what has the Devil now to work upon? Upon
the spirits of the men in this camp. And if you don't open your
JJ4 PIONEERING THE WEST
hearts so that the Spirit of God can enter your hearts and teach
you the right way, I know that you are a ruined people, I know
that you will be destroyed and that without remedy. And, un-
less there is a change and a different course of conduct, a dif-
ferent spirit to that which there is now in this camp, I go no
further. I am in no hurry.
"Give me the man of prayer; give me the man of faith;
give me the man of discretion; a sober-minded man, and I
would rather go among the savages with six or eight such men,
than to trust myself with the Avhole of this camp with the spirit
they now possess. Here is an .opportunity for every man to
prove himself, to know whether he will pray, and remember his
God, without being asked to do it every day. To know whether
they will have confidence enough to ask of God that they may
receive, without my telling them to do it. If this camp was
composed of men who had newly received the Gospel; men who
had .not received Priesthood ; men who had not been through
the ordinances in the Temple; and who had not had years of
experience, enough to have learned the influence of the spirits,
and the difference between a good and an evil spirit, I should
feel like preaching to them and watching over them and teach-
ing them all the time, day by day. But here are the Elders of
Israel, men who have had years of experience, men who have
had the Priesthood for years; and have they got faith enough
to rise up and stop a mean, low, groveling, contentious, quarrel-
some spirit? No. They have not, nor would they try to do it,
unless I rise up in the power of God and put it down . I don't
mean to bow down to the spirit there is in this camp, and which
is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren, which shall lead to
knockdown, and perhaps to use the knife to cut each other's
throats, if it is not put a stop to. I don't mean to bow down
to the spirit which causes the brethren to quarrel and when
I wake up in the morning, the first thing I hear is some of the
brethren .jawing each other and quarreling because a horse has
got loose in the night.
"I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and act the
nigger, night after night, to see what they would do, and what
extremes they would go to, if suffered to go as far as they
would; but I don't love to see it. The brethren say they want
a little exercise to pass the time evenings; but if you can't
tire yourselves enough with a day's journev, without dancing
every night, carry your guns on your shoulders and walk, and
carry your wood to camp, instead of lounging and sleeping in
your wagons, increasing the loads until your teams are tired
to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help your teams
PIONEERING THE WEST
over mudholes and bad places, instead of lounging in your
wagons, and that will give you exercise enough without dancing.
"Well, they \vill play cards; they will play checkers; they
will play dominoes; and, if they had the privileges, and were
where they could get whisky, they would be drunk half of their
time, and in one week they would quarrel, get to high words,
and draw their knives to kill each other. That is what such a
course of things would tend to. Don 't you know it 1 Yes. Well,
then, why don't you try to put it down? I have played cards
once in my life, since I. became a i Mormon/ to see what kind
of a spirit would attend it, and I was so well satisfied that I
would rather see the dirtiest thing in your hands that you could
find on the earth, than to see a pack of cards in your hands.
You never read of gambling, playing cards, checkers, dominoes,
etc., in the Scriptures. But you do hear of men praising the
Lord in the dance, but who ever heard of praising the Lord in
a game of cards? If any man had sense enough to play a
game of cards, or dance a little, without wanting to keep it up
all the time; but exercise a little and then quit it, and think
no more of it, it would be well enough. But you want to keep
it up till midnight, and every night, and all the time. You
don't know how to control yourselves.
"Last winter when we had our season of recreation in
the Council House, I went forth in the dance frequently; but
did my mind run on it? No. To be sure, when I was dancing
my mind was on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the
middle or the end of a time, my mind was engaged in prayer
and praise to my Heavenly Father; and whatever I engage in,
my mind is on it while engaged in it, but the moment 1 am
done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God.
"The devils which inhabit the Gentile priests are here.
Their tabernacles are not here. We are out of their power.
We are beyond their grasp. We are beyond the reach of their
persecutions. But the devils are here and the first we shall
know, if you don't open your eyes and your hearts, they will
cause division in our camp, and perhaps war, as they did the
former Saints, as you read in the 'Book of Mormon.'
"We suppose that we are going to look out a home for
the Saints, a resting place, a place of peace, where we can build
up the Kingdom and bid the nations welcome, without a low,
mean, dirty, trifling, covetous, wicked spirit dwelling in our
bosoms. It is vain, vain!
"Some of you are very fond of passing jokes, and will
carry your joke very far, but will you take a joke? If you
don't want to take a joke, don't give a joke to your brethren.
_56 PIONEERING THE WEST
Joking nonsense, profane language, don't belong to us. Sup-
pose the Angels were witnessing- the hoedown the other even-
ing, and listening to the haw-haws, would they not be ashamed
of it? I have not given a joke to any man on the journey,
nor felt like it. Neither have I insulted any man's feelings,
but I have bellowed pretty loud, and spoke sharp to the breth-
ren, when I have seen their awkwardness at coming into camp.
"The revelations in the Bible, in the 'Book of Mormon,'
and Doctrine and Covenants teaches us to be sober. And let
me ask you Elders that have been through the ordinances in
the Temple, what were your covenants there 1 ? I want that you
should remember them. When I laugh I see my folly and
nothingness, and weakness, and am ashamed of myself. I think
meaner and worse of myself than any can think of me. But
I delight in God, and in His commandments, and delight to
meditate on Him, and to serve Him; and I mean that every-
thing in me shall be subject to Him, and I delight in serving
Him.
"Now let every man repent of his weakness, of his follies,
of his meanness, and every kind of wickedness and stop your
swearing, and your profane language for it is in this camp.
I know it and have known it. I have said nothing about it;
but T tell you, if you don't stop it. you shall be cursed by the
Almighty, anil shall dwindle away and be damned. Such things
shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor God and
confess His name, or else you shall suffer the penalty.
"Most of this camp belong to the Church, nearly all, and
I would say to you brethren, ancl to the Elders of Israel, if you
are faithful you will yet be sent to preach the Gospel to the
nations of the earth, and bid all welcome, whether they believe
in the Gospel or not. And this Kingdom will reign over many
who do not belong to the Church; over thousands who do not
believe in the Gospel. By and by every knee shall bow, and
every tongue confess, and acknowledge, and reverence, and
honor the name of God and His Priesthood, and observe the
laws of the Kingdom, whether they belong to the Church and
obey the Gospel, or riot. And I mean that every man in this
camp shall do it. This is what the Scriptures mean by 'Every
knee shall bow,' etc., and you cannot make anything else out
of it.
I understand that there are several in this camp, who do not
belong to the Church. I am a man who will stand up for them,
and protect them in all their rights; and thev shall not trample
on the rights of others, nor on the Priesthood. They reverence
and acknowledge the name of God, and His Priesthood, and, if
PIONEERING THE WEST 57_
they set up their heads and seek to introduce iniquity into this
camp, and to trample on the Priesthood, I swear to them they
p.-hall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them where they
will be safe. If they want to return they can now have the
privilege; and any man, who chooses to go back, rather than
abide the laws of God, can now have the privilege of doing so
before \\e go further.
"Here are the Elders of Israel who have got the Priesthood,
who have to preach the Gospel, who have to gather the nations
of the earth, who have to build up the Kingdom so that the na-
tions can come to it. They will stoop to dance like nigers. I
don't mean this as debasing the nigers by any means. They
will hoedown, all turn summersets, dance on their knees, and
haw-haw out loud. They will play cards, and they will play
checkers and dominoes. They will use profane language. They
will swear.
"Suppose when you go to preach, the people ask you what
you did, when you went up on this mission to seek out a location
for the whole Church? What was your course of conduct'? Did
you dance ? Yes. Did you play cards ? Yes. Did you play check-
ers T Yes. Did you use profane language ? Yes. Did you swear ?
Yes. Did you gamble with each other and threaten each other?
Yes. How would you feel ? What would you say for yourselves ?
Would you not want to go and hide up? Your mouth would be
stopped, and you would want to creep away in disgrace.
"I am one of the last to ask my brethren to enter into a
solemn covenant, but, if they wall not enter into a solemn coven-
ant to put away their iniquity, and turn to the Lord, and serve
Him, and asknowledge and honor His name. I want them to take
their wagons and return back, FOR I SHALL NOT GO ANY
FARTHER under this state of things. If we don't repent an*
quit our wickedness, we w T ill have more hinderanees than we have
had and worse storms to encounter. I want the brethren to be
ready for meeting tomorrow at the appointed time, instead of
rambling off and hiding in their wagons to play cards, etc. I
think it will be good for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow, and
a prayer meeting, and humble ourselves and turn to the Lord, and
He will forgive us. ' '
He then called upon all the His p h Priests to step out in a line
in front of the wagon; and then the Bishops to step out in front
of the High Priests. He then counted them and ascertained their
numbers to be four Bishops and fifteen High Priests. He jthen
called for all the Seventies to form a line in the rear. There' was
scventy-eisrht in number. The Elders were then called out in line.
Their number was eight. There was also eight of the Twelve.
JJ8 PIONEERING THE WEST
He then asked the brethren of the Twelve, if they were will-
ing to covenant to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to re-
pent of all their follies, to cease from all their evils, and serve
God according to His laws ? If they were willing, to manifest it
by holding up their right hands. Every man raised his hand. He
then put the question to the High Priests, and Bishops, to the
Seventies and Elders, and last to the other brethren. All
covenanted with uplifted hands, without a dissenting voice.
He then addressed those who were not members of the Church
and told them they should be protected in their rights and
privileges, while they would conduct themselves well and not
seek to trample on the Priesthood, nor blaspheme the name of
God, etc.
He then referred to the conduct of Benjamin Rolfe's two
younger brothers in joining with the Higby's and John C.
Bennett in sowing discontent and strife among the Saints in
Nauvoo. and remarked that, " There will be no more Bennett
scrapes suffered here. He spoke highly of Benjamin Rolfe's
conduct, although not a member of the Church, and also re-
ferred to the esteem in which his father and mother were held
by the Saints generally. He then very tenderly blessed the
brethren and prayed that God would enable them to fulfill
their covenants, and withdrew to give a chance to others to
speak, if they felt like it.
Brother Heber C. Kimball arose and said: that he agreed
to all that President Young had said. He received it as the
word of God to himself, and it was the word of the Lord to
iihis camp, if they would receive it. He had been watching
the motions of things and the conduct of the brethren for some
time, and had seen what it would lead to. He had said little
but had thought a good deal. It had made him shudder, when
he had seen the Elders of Israel descend to the lowest and
dirtiest things imaginable the last end of everything. But
what had passed this morning would be an everlasting bless-
ing to the brethren, if they would repent and be faithful and
keep their covenants. He could never rest satisfied until his
family were liberated from the Gentiles and their corruptions,
and established in a land where they could plant and eat the
fruit of their labors. He had never had the privilege of eat-
ing the fruits of his labors yet, neither had his family, but
when this was done he could sleep in peace, but not until then.
He said: "If we will serve the Lord and remember His
name to call upon Him, we shall not one of us be left under
the sod, but shall be permitted to return and meet our fam-
ilies in peace, and enjoy their society again. But, if this camp
PIONEERING THE WEST
continues the course of conduct they have done, the judg-
ment of God will overtake us. I hope the brethren will take
heed to what President Young has said, and let it sink deep
into their hearts."
Brother Kimball made some very feeling remarks, with
some instructions, that have not been written. He blessed
the brethren in the name of the Lord, and he appeared to be
very much affected and very humble.
Elder Orson Pratt wanted to add a word to what had been
said. "Much good advice has been given to teach us how
we may spend our time profitably by prayer, meditation, etc.
but there is another idea which I want to add : There are
many good books in the camp and worlds of knowledge before
ns, which we have not attained, and, if the brethren would de-
vote all their leisure time to seeking after knowledge, they
would never need to say, they had nothing to pass away their
time. If we could spend twenty-three hours of the twenty-
four in gaining knowledge, and only sleep one hour, all the
days of our lives, there would be worlds of knowledge in store
yet for us to learn.
"I know it is difficult to bring our minds to dilligent and
constant studv, in pursuit of knowledge all at once, but by
steady practice and perseverance we shall become habitual to
it, and it will become a pleasure to us. I would recommend to
the brethren, besides prayer and obedience, to seek after
knowledge continually, and it will help us to overcome our
follies and nonsense. We shall have no time for it."
Elder Woodruff said: "He remembered the time Zion's
camp went up to Missouri to redeem Zion, when Brother Jo-
seph Smith sfood upon a wagon wheel and told the brethren-
that the decree had passed and could not be revoked; that:
the destroying angel would visit the camp; and the brethren
began to feel what Brother Joseph had said. We buried
eighteen in a very short time, and a more sorrowful time I
never saw before. There are nine men here that were in that
camp, and they all recollect the circumstances well, and will
never forget it. I was thinking while the President was
speaking; that, if I was one who had played cards or checkers,
I would take every pack of cards, and checker board and burn
them up, so that they would not be in the way to tempt us."
Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done wrong,
in many things. He had always indulged himself before he
came into the Church, with everything he desired and be
knew he had done wrong on this journey. He knew his mind
had become darkened since he left Winter Quarters. He hoped
60 PIONEERING THE WEST
the brethren would forgive him, and he would pray to God to
forgive him, and he would try to do better. While he was
speaking, he was very much affected indeed, and wept like a
child.
Many of the brethren were very much affected, and all
seemed to realize for the first time, the spirit to which they
had yielded, and the awful consequences of such things, if per-
sisted in. Many were in tears and felt humble. President
Young returned to the boat as Brother Markham closed his re-
marks, and said in reply:
"That he knew that the brethren would forgive him, and
the Lord will forgive us all, if we turn to Him with all our
hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting was then dismissed,
each man returned to his wagon.
At 1 :30 p. m. we again pursued our journey in peace, all
reflecting on what had been said today, and many expressing
their gratitude for the instructions they had received. It
seemed as if we were just starting on this important mission,
and all began to realize the responsibility resting upon us, to
conduct ourselves in such a manner, that this mission may
prove an everlasting blessing to us, instead of an everlasting
disgrace. No loud laughter was heard, nor swearing, no pro-
fane language, no hard speeches to man or beast ; and it
seemed as if the cloud had broke and we had emerged into a
new element, and a new atmosphere, and a new socity.
We traveled six miles about a north-northwest course, and
then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs, which extended
within ten rods of the river, the latter forming a large bend,
northward at this point. At the foot of the bluffs the road
was sandy and very heavy en our teams. Like all other sandy
places, it is entirely barren, there being only a tuft of grass
here and there. After passing over the sand, we changed our
course to a little north of west, not, however, leaving the
bluffs very far. The river tends again to the south, where we
then found the ground hard and good to travel over, but per-
fectly bare of grass for about a mile.
At 5 o'clock it commenced raining very hard, accompan-
ied with lightning and thunder and a strong northeast wind.
It also changed to considerable colder again. At 5:30 we
found our encampment, near the highest bench of the prairie.
The feed is not very good on the bottoms/ and here there is
none at all. We have passed a, small grove of tolerable sized
trees, all green, growing on an island in the river. There is
no timber on this side of the river. We picked up driftwood
^enough to" do our cooking. The distance we have traveled to-
PIONEERING THE WEST 61
day is eight and one-half miles, and during the week seventy-
four and one-half miles, making us 514V 2 miles from Winter
Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about 200 yards to
the south of us from which we obtain our water.
Sunday, May 30th. The morning was fair and pleasant,
and about 9 a. m. the brethren met together a little south of
the camp, and had a prayer meeting. Many of the brethren
expressed their feelings warmly, and confessed their faults
one to another. Between 11 and 12 o'clock the meeting was
dismissed, and the brethren gathered up their horses and tied
them, and met again about 12 o'clock, and partook of the Sac-
rament. The Twelve with some others went north of the
bluffs and had a meeting. All conducted themselves peaceably
and quiet today. They seem to have profited by the instruc-
tions we got on Saturday. We had some rain this afternoon,
but the evening is pleasant.
Monday, May 31st. This morning was cool but pleasant,
and at 8:15 we proceeded on our journey over a good hard
road. At 12:30 we stopped to feed, having come nine and one-
half miles. At 3 p. m. we again started, coming seven and
one-quarter miles and stopped at 6:45 and encamped near a
stream about a rod wide, the feed being very poor. We came
sixteen and three-quarters miles today: This afternoon we
passed some timber on this side of the river, the first we had
seen since the 10th inst. (being a distance of 215 miles), ex-
cept a little driftwood the brethren have picked up. The road
has been very sandy. Some of the brethren killed a deer this
afternoon, and wounded two others. Last Sunday President
Young and Kim ball saw the Black Hills. The camp are all
well and in good spirits.
62 PIONEERING THE WEST
8. PLATTE RIVER CROSSINGS, JUNE, 1847.
Tuesday, June 1st, 1847. The morning was very fine r
warm and pleasant, and at 9 o'clock we proceeded on our
journey. At 11:30 we halted to. feed, having come about four
and one-half miles. At 1:30 we started on again and contin-
ued until 4:15, and came in sight of Fort Laramie, about four
miles southwest of us. At 5:45 the wagons formed an en-
campment in the form of a V, having traveled seven and one-
half miles.
Six wagons, which are a part of the Mississippi Company,
that wintered at Pueblo, are here. They have been here two
weeks, and they report that the remainder of their company
were coming on with a detachment of the '" Mormon Battalion,"
who expected to be paid off and start for this point about the
first of June. Two of the brethren came across the river to
see us, and they report that nothing has been heard from the
main body of the Battalion and that there has been three or
four deaths at Pueblo. They said that three traders from the
mountains arrived here six days ago, having come from the
Sweet Water in six days and nights, traveling day and night
with horses and mules to prevent them from starving to
death. Two of their oxen ' had died for want of feed. The
snow was two feet deep at the Sweet Water. It is evident
that we are early enough for the feed.
I make the distance from Winter Quarters to Laramie
541^4 miles, which is two -miles less than Brother Clayton, and
we have traveled it in seven weeks, lacking half a day, and
have not- traveled but a few miles on Sundays. We have come
this far without accidents, except the loss of two horses stolen
by the Indians, and two killed. The Lord has blessed and
prospered us on our journey, and the camp enjoys better health
than they did when they left Winter Quarters. The country
begins to have a more hilly and mountainous appearance, and
some of the Black Hills show very plainly from here. The
timber is mostly ash and cottonwood on the low bottoms on
the river, but there are some cedar groves on the bluffs.
There is an Indian baby wrapped around with skins, deposited
in the branches of a large ash tree, which is in the center of
our camp. It is said that this is the mode of burying their
PIONEERING THE WEST 63^
dead. The bark is peeled off of the tree to prevent the
wolves climbing up.
Wednesday, June 2nd. The morning was pleasant, and
about 9 o'clock the Twelve and some others went across the
river to view the fort, and inquire something concerning our
route. Brother Pratt measured the distance across the river
and found it to be 108 yards. The water is deep in the chan-
nel, and the current runs about three and one-half miles an
hour. There is an. old fort near the bank of the river on the
other side, and the outside walls are still standing, but the
inside is ruins, having been burned. The walls are built of
Spanish brick, which is large pieces of tempered clay dried in
the sun, and laid up like brick with mortar. The dimensions
of this fort, outside, from east to west, is 144 feet, and from
north to south 103 feet. There is a large door fronting the
south, which led to the dwellings, fourteen in number when
burned.
Fort Laramie is about two miles from the Platt, situated
on the bank of a stream, called by the same name, which is
forty-one yards wide with a very swift current, but not very,
deep. The brethren, who went to the fort, were informed that
we could not travel more than four miles further on the north
side of the Platte, the bluffs being impassable with wagons;
also that the first year corn was planted there it done very
well, but none could be raised since for want of rain as it had
not rained for two years there until a few days ago. They, at
the fort, have a very good flat boat, and will let us have it
for $15, or ferry us over for $18, or 25c per wagon. The trade
of this place is principally with the Sioux Indians. The Crow
Indians came here a few weeks ago and stole twenty-five
horses, which were within 300 yards of the fort and a guard
around them. The lattitude of this place is 42 degrees 12
minutes and 13 seconds.
When the brethren returned they brought the boat with
them. Some of the brethren went fishing this afternoon with
the seine, in the Laramie Fork, and caught sixty or seventy
small fish. The Twelve have decided that Brother Amasa
Lyman should go with R. Stevens, John Tippets and T.
Woolsey to Puebio.
Thursday, June 3rd. This morning was cold with a strong-
southeast wind, and the first division commenced crossing their
wagons early. The wind blowing strong up the river, made it
easier crossing. They ferried a wagon bver in fifteen minuets.
The blacksmiths got their forges up, and went to work repair-
ing wagons and shoeing horses. At 11 :15 the brethren started
J>4 PIONEERING THE WEST
for Pueblo on horseback. President Young, Kimball, Richards
and Pratt accompanied them to the Lararnie Fork and there
held a council, kneeled down and dedicated them to the Lord
and blessed them. At 1 :40 p. m. it commenced raining, ac-
companied by hail and lightning with very loud thunder,
which lasted until 3:30. During the storm the horses were
secured in the old fort, and the ferry ceased running. About
5 o'clock the first division was over. The boat was then
manned by the second division, lead by John S. Higby. They
averaged a wagon across in eleven minutes.
About 7 o'clock it commenced raining again with wind
southeast, which stopped the ferrv, leaving three companies
of about fifteen wagons on the other side. Four men have
arrived from St. Joseph, Mo., who report that tw y enty wagons
are three miles below and 600 or 700 were passed on the road.
They think that there will be about 2000 wagons leave the
states this season for Oregon and California. The Crow
Indians stole four of their horses.
Friday, June 4th. The morning was very fine, and Lara-
mie Peak shows very plain. The brethren commenced ferrying
at 4:30, and at 8 o'clock President Young, Kimball and others
went up to Fort Laramie, returning about 11 o'clock. They
heard very favorable reports from the traders about Bear
River valley, being well timbered and plenty of grass, light
winters arid very little snow; also fish in abundance in the
streams. About 11:30 Brother Crow's company came and
joined the second division.
At 12 o'clock we again started on our journey, following
the wagon road, and at 1:20 we halted to feed, having come
three miles. The bluffs are very high and come near the river.
At 2 :30 we continued our journey and found the road very
uneven and sandy. About seven and three-quarters miles from
Laramie we descended a very steep pitch, or hill, and had to
lock our wheels for the first time for six weeks. At 5:30
we encamped, having come eight and one-quarter miles during
the day. About the time we encamped we had a very heavy
thunder shower.
I will give the names of Brother Crow's company. They
are as follows:. .Robert Crow, Elizabeth Crow, Benjamin Crow,
Harriet Crow, John McHenry Crow. Walter H. Crow, William
Parker Crow, Isa Venda Exene. Crow, Ira Minda Almerene
Crow, Geors-e W. Therlkill, Matilda Jane therlkill, James
William Therlkill, Milton Howard Therlkill, Archibald Little,
James ChesiieV .and .Lewis B. Myers, seventeen in number,
making 161 souls in the Pioneer company, deducting the four
PIONEERING THE W-EST 65_
that have gone to Pueblo. J. B. Myers is represented as know-
ing 1 the country to the mountains, having traveled it before.
They have five wagons, one cart, eleven horses, twenty-four
oxen, twenty-two cows, three bulls and seven calves. The num-
ber of animals in the camp are ninety-six horses, fifty-one
mules, ninety oxen, forty-three cows, nine calves, three bulis r
sixteen chickens, sixteen dogs, seventy-nine wagons and one
cart.
Brother Clayton put up a signboard at the ferry: In-
scription, "Winter Quarters, 56114 miles." Brother 6. Pratt
took the altitude of Fort Laramie and found it to be 4090 feet
above the level of the sea. Fremont makes it 4470, a difference
of 380 feet. The longitude of Fort Laramie is 104 degrees
11 minutes 53 seconds.
Saturday, June 5th. The morning was pleasant though
somewhat cloudy, and the bugle sounded early to start, but
we were detained until 8:30 on account of several oxen being*
missing. After traveling a little over four miles we ascended
a steep bluff, where the road runs on top of it for a short dis-
tance in a winding direction. The surface in some places is
very rough, and many places are covered with ledges of rocks,
which shakes our wagons very much. In descending there is-
a short turn near the bottom, where Brother Crow's cart turned
over, though there was no damage done. After winding our
way around and through sand and over rocks we came to a
very large spring, the water of which was warm and soft.
At 11:35 we stopped to feed, the grass being very short.
We had come six and one-half miles. About a quarter of a
mile ahead we discovered a company of eleven wagons bound
westward. They came on to our road from a south direction,
where the road forks. One runs to Fort John (*Laramie) and
the other that we came on runs by the old fort. They say the
road they came on is ten miles to the spring, and the one we
came on is fourteen and one-quarter miles. While we were
stopped we had a fine shower. At 1:40 we proceeded on our
journey. The latitude of the warm spring is 42 degrees 15 min-
utes 06 seconds.
After traveling a mile we turned in a narrow pass to the
northwest between two high bluffs, and after traveling half
a mile further we came to where the road rises a very high,
steep bluff, at the foot of which is a short sudden pitch, and
then a rugged ascent of a quarter of a mile. When we ar-
rived at the top, we found the road tolerably good, but still
rises for a quarter of a mile. After traveling: five and one-
quarter miles we descended the bluff, the road being sandy
_66 PIONEERING THE WEST
though pretty good. At 6:30 we encamped on the west bank
of a small stream and near a spring of very good water, having
come ten and one-half miles.
Brother Clayton put up a guide board every ten miles.
The feed is very good here and there is plenty of wood. The
Oregon company is encamped about a quarter of a mile back.
Brother Kimball has traveled ahead this afternoon and picked
out this camp ground, which is the best we have had for a long
time. About dark it rained, accompanied with thunder and
lightning. Tomorrow is set apart as last Sunday was for
prayer and fasting. It is reported that there are three or four
companies between here and Fort John (*Laramie), which was
formerly called Laramie. The camp are all well and in good
spirits and the Lord continues to bless us.
Sunday, June 6th. This morning is cool and cloudy and
looks like rain. At 8 a. m. the eleven wagons that camped back
a little ways passed us again. At 9 o'clock the brethren as-
sembled for prayer meeting, and we had a very good meeting.
Brothers E. Snow, Little and. others occupied the time. The
meeting was dismissed a little before 11 a. m. Three or four
men came to camp on horseback and reported that their com-
pany was a short distance back. They had encamped at the
warm springs last night.
At 11 :40 the brethren assembled for preaching, when it
commenced raining very heavy, accompanied with lightning
and thunder. While it was raining the Oregon company came
up, and they had nineteen wagons and two carriages. They
have a guide, who says he shall find Avater six miles ahead
and no more for fifteen miles. Between 12 and 1 o'clock the
leather cleared off, and it was thought best to travel six
Itoiles this afternoon, in order to shorten our day's travel to-
tnorrow, and at 2:30 we moved forward, crossing the stream
three-quarters of a mile ahead. Brother Young, Kimbal] and
Woodruff went ahead to look for a camp ground. We came
a little over four miles to where the company of seventeen
wagons were encamped, south of the road, and at 5:30 we en-
camped, having come five miles. The feed is very good and a
stream of water is running near the camp and there is wood in
plenty. The company of eleven wagons are encamped a short
distance ahead of us, but, notwithstanding, we have much the
best camping ground. Brother Frost put up his forge and done
^omfe blacksmithing. There is a strong wind blowing from the
west.
Monday, June 7th. The morning was fine and we took
our horses out earlv. about half a mile east, where the feed
PIONEERING THE WEST
67
was very good. At 6:30 the Oregon company passed us and
at 7:10 we again commenced our journey. At 11 o'clock we
.halted to feed on the west bank of a small stream, the grass
being short. We had come seven and three-quarters miles in
a course north northwest, and the road was even and good
traveling. Soon after we halted another Oregon company of
thirteen wagons passed us. They say they are from Andrew
County. Missouri. At 12:40 we proceeded onward and after
traveling a short distance we came to a hill, which was a
quarter of a mile from the bottom to the top, the ascent being
gradual.
3
Top <' the Rockies Just Below the Sky.
From the top of this hill, we had a very pleasant view
of the surrounding country, the scenery being truly romantic.
The country is very much broken, with a forest of pine cov-
ering the surface. From this hill we have a fine view of
Limavama Peak, and there appears to be snow on the top of
it. At 3:30 we arrived at Horse Shoe Creek and formed our
encampment in the center of a grove of ash and cottonwood,
having traveled five and one-quarter miles over a crooked road,
and during the day thirteen miles. We have the best feed we
have had since we left Winter Quarters, and the most pleasant
camp ground. There is a beautiful large spring of cold water
here also.
Brother Kimball picked out this camp ground and found
the spring and called it Heber's Spring. The creek is also
clear and is said to have trout in it. There is an abundance
of wild mint and sage growing here. Just before we stopped a
very heavy thunder shower blew up, and while we were form-
J8 PIONEERING THE WEST
ing our encampment the rain poured down in torrents, ac-
companied with thunder and lightning, which lasted a little
over an hour. The hunters killed a deer and an antelope this
afternoon. The evening is very cool.
Tuesday, June 8th. The morning was fine, though it con-
tinues cool. At 7 :30 a. m. we started on our journey, crossing
the creek, which is about a rod wide, and we traveled two
and one-half miles winding around the high bluffs and then
began to ascend them. This is the worst bluff we have had to
ascend since we started. It is nearly a half mile, and three
very steep pitches to go up, and most of the teams had to
double. From the top of this hill we saw a buffalo south of
us, which is the first we have seen since the 21st of May. Two
and a half miles from the foot of this bluff we passed over a
small creek, nearly dry, and then ascended another high bluff.
At 11 :45 we halted for noon near a small creek, with very
little water in it. We came six and three-quarters miles this
forenoon. One of Brother Crow's daughters got run over by
one of their wagons, the wheel passing over the leg, but there
was no bones broken. At 1:40 we proceeded on our journey
and after traveling a mile and a' half we crossed a small creek,
and again ascended a high bluff. This afternoon there was a
strong wind from the west, and it was very cold. The country
is very much broken and our road is very crooked and tendipg
to the north. After traveling five miles we began to descend
gradually, and at 6:10 we crossed a stream about forty feet
wide and about two feet deep, the current being very swift.
It is called on Fremont's map Fabant river. We traveled this
afternoon eight and three-quarters miles, and during the day
fifteen and one-half miles. The evening is cold and has the
appearance of rain.
The hunters killed a deer and an antelope. 0. P. Rockwell
says he has been to the Platte river, and it is about four miles
from here. Soon after we stopped three traders came into the
camp. They were part of the company that lost their cattle
in the snowstorm on the Sweet Water.
Wednesday, June 9th. The morning was very pleasant,
and the feed being scarce, it was thought best to start before
breakfast, and at 4:45 we moved onward. At 5:45 we halted
for breakfast near the traders' camp, having come one and one-
quarter miles. It was thought best to send a small company
ahead to build a raft, as the traders say it is about seventy
miles to \vhere we cross the Platte. They left some hides at
the crossing, that they used on a wagon box, which answered
PIONEERING THE WEST 69_
for a ferry boat. They told Brother Crow that he might have
them, if he could get there before the Oregon company.
There was nineteen of the best teams with about forty-
nine men sent ahead; five wagons from the first division and
fourteen from the second. TTiey started about half an hour
before we did. About 7:45 we proceeded onward, and soon
after we started we came to a gully, which was very difficult
to cross. Four men on their work horses and mules passed
us. They said they were from Pueblo and were going to Green
River. We came three and one-quarter miles and crossed a
stream about ten feet 'wide, the banks of which, on either side,
were very steep. Some of the teams required help.
This forenoon the soil we have passed over looked red as
far as the eye could reach, and most of the rocks and bluffs
were of the same color. President Young and Kimball saw a
large toad about a quarter of a mile from the camp that had
a tail and horns, though it did not jump like a toad, but crawled
like a mouse. At 12:40 we halted for noon, having come ten
miles since breakfast. Feed is scarce and there is very little
water. Our road has been crooked, and hilly, and mostly
rocky. The ground is literally covered with large crickets.
At 2:30 we were on the move again. The road has been much
better this afternoon. At 6 :15 we encamped on a stream about
a rod wide, two feet deep, with a very swift current. We have
traveled eight miles this afternoon, and during the day nineteen
and on-quarter miles. The feed is good. A number of antelope
have been killed today. The evening was fine and pleasant.
Thursday, June 10th. The morning was calm and very
pleasant. At 7:30 we moved .on and came four and one-half
miles and crossed a small stream, passed on a little farther
and crossed another creek some larger. At 11:20 we halted for
noon on the east side of a stream about thirty feet wide and
tolerably deep with a rapid current, having come eight and
three-quarter miles. We had several long steep bluffs to ascend
and descend, and it was very difficult to cross some of the
creeks without help. We saw one of the Oregon companies a
few miles ahead of us. Our road has been crooked and mostly
winding northward. The creek where we camped last night
is called La Pine. About a mile from where the road crossed
it, it runs through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the
liiu'h bluffs. The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand
upright in it, and the light can be seen through from the other
side.
At 1:45 we continued our journey, with more even ground
and good traveling. This afternoon we came in sight of the
Platte river. We left it last Saturday and since then we have
PIONEERING THE WEST 71
been winding through valleys and over bluffs all the way to
here. As we near the river the road is more level, but sandy.
At 5:45 we crossed a stream about thirty feet wide and two
*eet deep, the current being swift and the water clear, with
plenty of timber on its banks, and the feed very good. We
encamped on its west bank, near a grove of large timber. We
traveled nine miles this afternoon, and during the day seven-
teen and three-quarters miles.
In this stream there is plenty of fish. Brother Clayton
caught twenty-four with a hook and line, that would weigh
sixteen pounds, all herring. Some of the brethren caught a
few catfish. Some of the camp found a bed of stone coal about
a quarter of a mile up stream. The hunters killed a number
of antelope this afternoon. The evening was warm and pleas-
ant. I noticed that Brother Ellsworth brought an antelope into
camp this evening and it was cut up and divided among
their own Ten by Brother Rockwood. A few days since Brother
Rockwood gave Brother Crow a lecture for not dividing an
antelope among the camp, when Brother Crow's companions
are -short of provisions, and only have five ounces to a person
per day. If this is consistency I don't know what consistency is.
Friday, June llth. The morning was very pleasant. I
stood guard the later part of the night, in the place of some
of the brethren that have gone ahead. About 3 o'clock this
morning I commenced cleaning the fish Brother Clayton caught.
I fried them and we had a firstrate breakfast. This is the first
place I have seen since we left Winter Quarters, where I should
like to live. The land is good and plenty of timber and the
warbling of the birds make it very pleasant. At 7:35 we pro-
ceeded on our journey, along the bank of the river, which ap-
pears wider here than at Laramie. We came four and one-
half miles and Brother Clayton put up a guideboard, "100 miles
from Laramie," which we came in a week lacking two and
one-quarter hours. At 11:50 we halted for noon in a grove,
where the feed is very good.
The road this forenoon was generally level and sandy, but
there was very little grass. We have traveled nine and one-
half miles this forenoon. At 2 o'clock we started again, and
after traveling one mile we crossed a very crooked, . muddy
stream about twelve feet wide and one foot deep, came five and
three-quarters miles and crossed another creek. At 5:30 we
came to a halt, and we saw a number of wagons encamped
about a mile ahead. After waiting about half an hour. Brother
Kimball, who was ahead, returned and reported that there was
no feed ahead for three miles.
72 PIONEERING THE WEST
The company ahead is one of the Oregon camps. They are
making a raft to cross here. They say the regular crossing
place is twelve miles ahead. We turned off to the river about
a half mile from the road near a grove, the feed being tolerably
good. We encamped about 6 o'clock, having come six and
three-quarters miles, and seventeen during the day. Brother
Kimball reports that he and some of the brethren tried to find
a fording place to cross the river, but were unable to do so.
Some places the water was deep enough to swim their horses.
The brethren killed three antelope today.
Saturday, June 12th. The morning was very fine with a
light breeze from the east. Brother Markham has learned, this
morning, that Obediah Jennings was the principal in killing
Bowman in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard of Joseph
and Byrum Smith and the others that got away when prison-
ers in Missouri. The mob suspected him, and they rode him on
a bar of iron until they killed him.
At 8:15 we started on our journey and came one and one-
half miles, where we crossed a deep ravine with a steep bank
that was very difficult to ascend. We came one and three-
quarters miles and crossed a creek about two feet wide on a
bridge, which the brethren had made. One mile from this we.
crossed another creek about five feet wide and one and one-half
feet deep. At 11 :45 we halted for noon, having come seven and
one-quarter miles, over a sandy, barren prairie. Here the breth-
ren tried to find a fording place. They succeeded in riding
across the river, but it was considered unsafe to cross with our
wagons, as the current runs very swift. The brethren turned
out this noon to diir down the banks of a deep ravine, and made
it passable for wagons in a short time.
At 2 :30 we again started, came about three and one-quarter
miles and crossed a creek about five feet wide. At 4:30 we
encamped on the bank of jthe river, having traveled about six
miles this afternoon, and during- the day eleven and one-quarter
miles. Our camp is about half a mile below the camp of the
brethren who went ahead. They arrived here yesterday about,
noon, and two of the Missouri companies arrived soon after.
The brethren made a contract with them to ferry our wagons
over for $1.50 each, and take their pay in flour at $2.50 per.
hundred. They, crossed the last of them this evening. The bill,
amounted to $34. They received 'their pay mostly in flour, but
some little in meal and bacon. Brother Badger traded a wagon
with one of them. He got a horse and 100 pounds of flour,
twenty-eight pounds of bacon, and some crackers to boot. The
horse and provisions were worth as much as his wagon.
PIONEERING T H E W K S T 73
Since the brethren arrived hero, they have killed three
buffalos, one grizzly bear, three cubs and two antelope. The
buffalos are very fat and the brethren say they are very
plenty back of the hills. Brother J. Redding- made H. C. Kim-
ball a present of a large cake of tallow, and dried some beef
for the benefit of the camp. Tunis Rappleyee and Artemus
Johnson are missing: this evening:. A company was sent out
in search of them. Brother Rappleyee returned about 11 o'clock
at night. He said that he started to go up to the mountains
to get some snow, about 5 o'clock, thinking he would be back
before dark, but he found the hills to be eight or ten miles off.
Johnson was found by the company. He went out hunting and
got lost. They returned still later.
Sunday, June 13th. The morning was fine and pleasant.
At 9 o'clock the brethren assembled for meeting. Some of the
brethren freed their minds, and Brother Kimball arose and
addressed them, exhorting them to be watchful and humble,
and remember their covenants, and above all tilings to avoid
everything that would tend to a division. He gave some very
good instruction and council. Brother Pratt made some re-
marks, followed by Brother B. Young arid others. The captains
or Tens were notified to meet at Brother Young's wagon. It
was agreed to take the wagons over on rafts and the provisions
in the cutter. %
I went across the river with five or six men and built a
raft, while some of the brethren went up to the mountain to
get some poles. The day has been very warm and more like a
summer day than any we have had since we left. The ground
here is covered with crickets.
Monday, June 14th. The morning- was cloudy and cool.
The first division commenced ferrying their provisions over
the river in the cutter, and the second division with the raft,
but the current was so strong it was not safe to take provisions
over on the raft, and we only took two loads. The second di-
vision then stretched a rope across the river at the narrowest
place, and lashed two wagons together, and made the rope fast
to them to float them across. When the wheels struck the sand
on the other side, the current being so strong, it rolled them
one over the other, and breaking the bows, and loosening the
Irons, etc., to the amount of $30, belonging to Brother John
Pack. We next lashed four together, abreast and dragged them
over as before, with poles each side of the wagon, and then long
poles to reach across endways. They all got over safe. One
of the poles broke and let the upper one turn on its side, but
there was no damage done.
74 PIONEERING THE WEST
Not having poles or rope enough to lash them, we thought
we would try one wagon alone. Some of the brethren thought
that if some person would get in the wagon and ride on the
upper side, it would prevent it from turning over. I volunteered
to go across in it. Soon after we pushed off, Brother Gibbons
jumped in the river and caught hold of the end of the wagon.
When we got out about the middle of the river, the wagon
began to fill with water, and roll from one side to the other,
and then turn over on the side. I got on the upper side and
hung on for a short time, Avhen it rolled over leaving me off.
I saw that T was in danger of being caught in the wheels or
the bows, and I swam off, but one of the wheels struck my leg
and bruised it some. I struck out for the shore with my cap
in one hand. The wagon rolled over a number of times and
was hauled ashore. It received no damage, except the bows
were broken. We then thought it the safest way to take the
wagons over on a raft, notwithstanding it is very slow, and
will take three or four days.
The wind blows very strong from the southwest, which is
very nearly down stream. We have cattle on the other side
to tow the raft up. The current and the wind being against
us, we nave to tow our raft up about one mile above, where
we load the wagons. At 3:30 we had a very heavy thunder
stortn, the rain pouring down in torrents, accompanied with
hail, and the wind blew a perfect gale. After the storm was
over we continued ferrying the wagons over. The river is
rising very 'fast. After toiling all day nearly up to our armpits
in the water, we got over eleven wagons in the afternoon, mak-
ing twenty-three during the day.
Tuesday, June 15th. The morning was fine but very
windy, and we continued ferrying over our wagons. We took
Brother George Polling's wagon over this morning. The breth-
ren have built two more rafts. The wind continues to blow
down stream, which makes it very hard work to cross with the
rafts. This afternoon Brother Crow's company commenced
swimming their horses over. They forgot to take the rope off
of one of the horses, and after he got out in the middle of the
river, they discovered that it was drowning. They pulled to him
with the cutter and dragged him ashore, but he was dead. They
supposed that he got the rope around his legs and could not
swim. It was concluded today to leave about ten of the
brethren here, to build a boat and keep a ferry, until the next
company comes up. Brother Kimball told me to have a wagon
and six mules ready to start early in the morning after a log
PIONEERING THE WEST 75
to make a canoe. The wind continued to blow nearly all day.
We succeeded in getting twenty wagons over today.
Wednesday, June 16th. This morning was fine, with a
strong uind from the west. I got Brother Coitrin's wagon
and Brother Gleason's mules, and a pair of mules belonging to
Brother Flake, drove by a colored man, and a pair that Brother
Billings drives, and delivered them to those who were going
after the timber for the boat. The first division sent a wagon.
There was about twenty men went, principally those who had
their wagons across the river. I understand there is a contract
made to ferry over a company of wagons at the same rate the
others A\ere crossed.
Two men came up from a small company below, who they
say belong to a company ahead. They stopped at Ash Hollow
in consequence of some of them being sick. They also wished
to be ferried over. There was a small company sent up the
river this afternoon to get out timber for the boat. J crossed
the river this forenoon and eat dinner with Brother Whipple.
My health is not very good, having worked in the water for two
days, and in the course of it I caught cold, and have pains in
my bowels. The wind blows very strong this afternoon from
the west. The brethren that went down the river, returned
this evening, and brought two canoes twenty-five feet long and
partly finished.
Thursday, June 17th. The morning was windv and cold,
and all hands were engaged ferrying. We hauled our three
wagons down to the river and unloaded Brother King's wagon
and lashed the wagons, and took the loading over in the cutter.
We took a part of the loading out of Brother Kimball's wagon,
and took it over on the large raft. Brother Hansen and myself
pulling it over. The wind blowing very strong down stream
made it very difficult to cross. President Young also crossed
liis wagon this forenoon.
Early this morning we tried to swim our horses across, but
the water being so rough we could not get them in. Soon after
noon we got the last of our wagons over. Two of the Oregon
companies arrived^, and the brethren made preparations to cross
them at $1.50 per wagon. The brethren suffered much workit'ir
in the water, for it is very cold. Our wagons formed in a cir-
cle, this afternoon, near the ferry. We got our horses up this
afternoon to swim them across, but Brothers Young and Kimball
thought it was too cold, and the wind blowed too strong, and
they told us to leave them until morning. A company of men
are working at the canoes.
Friday, June 18th. This morning was calm but very cold.
76 PIONEERING THE WEST
The brethren had worked all night and ferried over one com-
pany of ten wagons and part of another. They paid the brethren
$5.00 extra for working in the night. We went across the river
early, and swam our horses over. The camp concluded not to
start toda^y, but stop and help to finish the boat, and wait for
the pay we were to get for ferrying the companies over. Brother
Clayton crossed the river this afternoon and went back to the
last creek we crossed, about one and one-half miles, and caught
sixty fish that would weight about half a pound apiece.
The new canoe was launched this afternoon, and the
brethren commenced ferrying over the company of Missourians.
The boat would carry a common sized wagon and its load, and
it works very well considering the wood is gTeen. There ha&
been a small company of the brethren appointed to remain at
this place until the next company of Saints comes up, and then
to come on with them. They are to take charge of the boat
and cross all wagons they can until the brethren arrive, at $1.50
per wagon. About dark this evening the Twelve and those who
were appointed to remain, went off a little ways from the camp
to council. The names of those who were to stop were read
over as follows :
Thomas Grover, John S. Higbee, Luke S. Johnson, Appleton
M. Harmon, Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William
Empey, James Davenport and Benjamin F. Stewart. Thomas
Grover was appointed their captain. The President then re-
ferred to Eric Glines, who wanted to stay, but the President
said he had no council for him to stay, but he might do as he
pleased. Some explanation followed by Glines, but the unani-
mous feelings of the brethren were for Glines to go on. The
President preached a short sermon for the benefit of the young^
Elders. He represented them as eternalty grasping after some-
thing ahead of them, which belonged to others, instead of seek-
ing to bring up those who were behind them. He said the way
for the young Elders to enlarge their dominions and to get
power, is to go to the world and preach the gospel, and then
they can get a train and bring it up to the house of the Lord
with them, etc.
The letter of instructions Avas then read and approved by
the brethren. The council was then dismissed. This evening
Brother Rockwood divided some of the provisions which was
realized for ferrying, among some of the Tens. Brother Kimball
let the brethren have a coil of rope to use on the boat, worth
about $15. He got 263 pounds of flour, 100 pounds of meal and
twenty-feveu pounds of soap toward the pay. There has been
provisions enough received for ferrying to last this camp for
PIONEERING THE WEST 77
about twenty-three clays, which is a great blessing, which we
should all be thankful to the Lord for. At the rate they sell
provision* at Fort Laramie, what we received would cost about
$400, which was earned in about a week, besides ferrying our
own wagons over.
Saturday, June 19th, The morning was fine but cool, and
at 7:50 a. in. we proceeded on our journey, all enjoying good
health. The first six miles we traveled about a west course,
over several high bluffs, where the road turns to the south and
rises a high bluff about a mile long. The whole face of the
country as far as the eye can extend, appears to be barren and
very much broken. The descent on the south side of the bluff
was crooked and uneven. At 1 o'clock we halted for noon on
a spot of good grass, about a quarter of a mile from a good
spring, which is the first water we have come to since we left
the ferry, which is about eleven and one-quarter miles. There
is no timber nearer than the bluffs, which is about two miles.
The Red Buttes are nearly opposite this place in a southeast
direction.
After stopping about an hour it was thought best to move
on to the spring. We found it to be a small stream of water
rising out of the quick sand. About twelve miles from the ferry
there is a lake, supposed to be supplied by the spring. We
could see the water boiling out of the mud in several places.
The grass on the banks of this lake is very good. After water-
ing our teams we proceeded on our journey, at 2 :50 p. m., bearing
a southwest course over a rolling prairie. Aoout eight miles
from the spring there is a steep descent from a bluff, and at
the foot there is a ridge of sharp-pointed rocks, running parallel
with the road for nearly a quarter of a mile, leaving only a
narrow space for the wagons to pass and the road is very rough.
At 7:40 we encamped on a small spot, surrounded by high
bluffs, having traveled ten and one-quarter miles and during the
day twenty-one and one-half miles. Our camp ground this
evening is the poorest we have had for some time; very little
grass and no wood and bad water. The country is sandy and
barren, very little vegetation growing here. * There is plenty of
wild sage, and several low marshes near our camp ground, where
our cattle get mired. 0. P. Rockwell came into camp and re-
ported that he had a fat buffalo about two miles from the
camp. A team was sent out to bring it in, which did not return
for some time after dark. M"yers killed two buffaloes and took
the tallow and tongues, and left the meat to rot on the prairie.
J. Norton and A. Gibbons left the camp at the springs and
went out hunting, expecting that we would remain there until
PIONEERING THE WEST 79
Monday. Gibbons has not been heard from since. Norton
has returned and reported that he had killed a buffalo back
near the spring's.
Sunday, June 20th. The morning was fine. We found two
oxen almost buried in the mud. At 5 :15 we left this miserable
place. The first mile was very bad traveling, there being several
steep pitches to pass over. A number of the brethren went
ahead with picks and spades to improve the road. We traveled
three and three-quarters miles and halted at 7 a. m. for break-
fast near a small stream of clear spring water. The feed is
good but there is no wood. Brother Kimball and Benson state
that, when they were riding ahead last evening to find a camp
ground, they saw six men suddenly spring up out of the grass,
with blankets, that looked like Indians. They turned their
horses and rode in a parallel direction to the road. The brethren
also kept on their course. After going a short distance one of
the supposed Indians left the rest and rode toward the brethren
and motioned with his hand for them to go back. They went.,
on and paid no regard to him. When he discovered that h<
could not bluff them off, he turned his horse and run for t hn
others, and all put spurs to their horses and galloped off. Th<^
soon descended a ridge and were soon out of sight. Brothe*^
Kimball and Benson run their horses to the top of the ridpo
and discovered a camp about a mile off. The brethren were
satisfied that those Indians were Missourians, and that they had
taken this plan to keep us back from this camp ground. It is
considered an old Missouri trick and an insult to our camp r
and if they undertake to play Indian games, they might meet
with Indian treatment.
Their camp left here a little before we arrived this morning.
It is President Young's intention to press on a little faster, and
crowd them up, to see how they will like it. We have learned
from one of the emigrants in the rear that Andrew Gibbons
staid with them last night, and that when he arrived at the
springs he found a Missouri company there and us gone. He
told them where the buffalo was and they went and got it. At
D :15 we proceeded- on our journev, and after traveling three
miles we arrived at the WilloAv Springs and halted a little while
to water. The spring is about two feet wide and the water
about ten inches deep; clear, and. as cold as ice. The grass
is very good here and it is a very good camp ground. About a
ouarter of a mile bevond the sprinsr we ascend a hill, which is
nbout one mile from the foot to the top of it, and the ascent
very steep.
From the top of the hill snow 7 can be seen on the top of
JO PIONEERING THE WEST
the mountains a long- distance off. The Red Buttes appear only
a few miles distant. Three-quarters of a mile further -we found
good feed, but no wood or water. We traveled one and one-quar-
ter miles and came to a heavy slough. About a mile from this
place we ascended a very steep bluff, and at 2:45 we stopped
to feed in a ravine, where the grass is very good and a g-ood
stream of water about a quarter of a mile south of the road,
but there is no wood. We have traveled nine miles this fore-
noon over a barren, sandy country, there being no feed only
in spots as above mentioned. At 5 o'clock we proceeded on our
journey, and after traveling two and one-half miles we descended
to the bottom land again, and saw a small stream a little to the
left of the road, where there is plenty of feed.
We crossed a stream one arid three r quarters miles further,
of .clear water about six feet wide and one foot deep, but there
is neither grass nor timber on its banks. After traveling seven
miles this afternoon we turned off of the road to the left, and
at 8 :20 we found our camp ground, as selected by Brother Kim-
ball, on a ridge near the above mentioned creek, about a quarter
of a mile from the road. Our travel this afternoon was seven
and one-quarter miles, exclusive of turning off from the road,
and during the day twenty miles. There is no wood and we have
to use the sage roots for cooking, as it grows wild in abundance
in this region. Brothers Woodruff and J. Brown went ahead
this morning- and have not been seen or heard of since.
Monday, June 21st. The morning was very fine and warm,
arid at 8:35 a. m. we proceeded on our journey. After traveling
three and one-quarter miles we came to a bed of saleratus,
which was a quarter of a mile across, and on which were several
lakes of salt water. This place looks swampy and smells bad.
Lorenzo Young gathered a pailful in a short time, and tested its
qualities, which he considers very good. It is reported by trav-
elers that there is poison springs in this region, but we have
not yet seen any. It is probably the brakish water, which
tastes some of saleratus, that make them call it poison springs.
We passed along a little further and saw two more lakes of the
same nature, with the banks mostly white with saleratus. At
12 o'clock we arrived on the bank of the Sweet Water, having
<?ome nine and one-half miles over a very sandy road, destitute
of wood, water and feed. The distance from the upper ferry
on the Platte is forty-nine miles. There has formerlv been a
ford here, but latelv it has been crossed about a mile higher up.
The river is probably about seven or eight rods wide and about
three feet deep at the fording place, but much deeper in other
PIONEERING THE WEST
places. The current runs very swift and the water tastes good,
but is some muddy.
On the river there is plenty of good grass, but no wood.
There is plenty of wild sage, which answers for fuel. Brother
G. Billings and Baird Went back about a half mile and got a
bucket of the saleratus. Brother Kimball was ahead looking
out a camp ground and he and Brother Richards were close to
Independence Rock, about a half mile ahead, when they waved
their hats for us to come on there, but we did not see them.
The day has been very hot and no wind, which makes it very
unpleasant traveling. Here Brothers Woodruff and Brown passed
the camp. They had passed the night with one of the Oregon
companies.
There are many huge hills or ridges and masses of granite
rock in this neighborhood, all destitute of vegetation, and pre-
senting a very wild and desolate as well as romantic appear-
ance. The brethren killed two snakes here. Some of the brth-
ren went ahead to view Independence Rock, which is about a half
mile west of where we are encamped. The river runs within
about three rods of the rock and runs about a west course, while
the rock runs a northwest direction. It is a barren mass of ba*e
granite, more so than any others in this region, and is probably
400 yards long and 80 yards wide, and about 100 yards perpen-
dicular height, as near as Brother Clayton could judge. The
ascent is very difficult all around, but the southwest corner ap-
pears to be the easiest to ascend. There are hundreds of persons
who have visited it and painted their names there with different
colored paint, both male and female.
At 3 p. m. we proceeded on our journey. Brother Clayton
put up a guide board opposite the rock with the following in-
scription: "To Fort John, 175% miles. Pioneers, July 21st,
1847, W. R." Dr. Richards requests that his brand be 'put on
all the signboards that the Saints might know them, as his
brand is generally known by the Church. After traveling one
mile beyond the rock we crossed the river, all the wagons cross-
ing without difficulty. We then continued a southwest course
and traveled four and one-half miles when we were opposite to
the Devil 's Gate, which is a little west of the road. We traveled
a quarter of a mile further, where the road passes between two
high ridees of granite rocks, leaving: a surface of about two
rods of level ground on each side of the road. The road then
bends to the west, and a quarter of a mile further we passed
over a small creek about two feet wide, but very bad to cross,
$t being deep and muddy.
We proceeded on a short distance and found our encamp-
82
PIONEERING THE WEST
ment at 6 :35 on the banks of the river, having traveled seven
and three-quarters miles this afternoon and during the day fif-
teen and one-quarter miles. The feed is very good here, but wood
is scare. I went to view the Devil's Gate, and while ascending
the rocks I fell in with some of the brethren, and we went up in
company. Where we arrived at the top of the east rock we
found it perpendicular. The river runs between two high rocky
ridges, which were measured by Brother Pratt and found to be
Ready to Move From Camp on Platte River.
309 feet 6 l / 2 inches high and about 200 yards long. The river
has a channel of about three rods in width through the pass,
which increases its swiftness, and it dashes furiously against the
huge fragments of rocks, which has fell from the mountains,
and the roaring can be heard a long distance. It has truly a
romantic appearance, and the view over the surrounding country
is very sublime. The Sweet Water mountains show high and
appear spotted with snow. Mountains can be seen from twenty
to thirty miles distant. West of us, covered with snow, the
high barren rocky ridges on the north side of the river, seem
to continue for many miles.
Tuesday, June 22nd. The morning was fine, and at 7:20
we continued our journey, and when about 200 yards from where
we camped we crossed a very crooked creek, about six feet
wide, descending from the southwest. After traveling about
three miles over a very heavy sandy road, we crossed another
PIONEERING THE WEST 83_
creek, about two feet wide. Brother Lorenzo Young broke an
axletree, which detained him for some time. One of the Oregon
company came up, and one of them took Brother Young's load
into his wagon, and spliced his axletree, which enabled him to
follow the camp. At 11:55 we halted on the bank of the river
to feed, having traveled ten miles over a very sandy, barren
land, there being no grass only on the banks of the creeks and
the banks of the river. During the halt Brother Pratt took an
observation and found the latitude to be 42 degrees 28 minutes
24 seconds.
The Oregon company passed us- white we were getting up
our teams. At 2 :25 we started again, the road leaving the river,
and traveled about a half mile, passing a large lake on our left.
After traveling five and three-quarters miles we crossed a creek
about six feet wide and a foot deep, the banks on either side
being steep and sandy. The banks of the creek are lined with
wild sage, which i* very large and thick, instead of with grass.
Brother Kimball named it Sage Creek. After passing the creek
one and three-quarters miles we again arrived at the banks of
the river, and continued to travel near to it, and on three and
three-quarters miles we crossed a stream three feet wide, but not
to be depended on for water. At 7:50 we encamped at the foot
of a very high gravelv hill and near the river, ha ving^ traveled
this afternoon ten and three-quarters miles, ajid during the day
twenty and three -quarters miles, mostly over a sandy road. The
feed is very good here, and is w r ell worth traveling a few miles
further for. Brothers Barney and Hancock have each killed
an antelope today, but there appears to be no buffalo in the
neighborhood. The camp is all well and we continue to be pros-
pered on our journey.
Wednesday, June 23rd. The morning was pleasant and
warm, and we proceeded on our journey soon after 6 o'clock and
traveled one and one-half miles, where we crossed a very shallow
stream of clear cold water, about five feet wide. There is but
little grass here, but there is a number of bitter cottonwood
tjees growing on its banks. There being no name on the map
for this creek, it is called Bitter Cottonwood Creek. It is prob-
able that this stream is caused by the melting snow on the
mountains, and, if so, it should not be depended upon for a
camp ground in the dryer summer.
After traveling five miles beyond the last mentioned stream,
we again descended to the banks of the river, where there would
be a very good camp ground. We traveled until 11 :05 on the
bank of the river, and then halted for noon, as the road and the
river separated at this point and the road was very sandy. Our
84 PIONEERING THE WEST
course has been about south. The day has been very warm with
a high south breeze. At 1:10 we continued our journey, and
after traveling six and three-quarters miles we came to the
banks of the river, and at 6 :20 we encamped, having 1 made eight
and one-half miles this afternoon and seventeen miles during
the day. There is plenty of grass on the river banks, but no
wood. There is two Oregon companies about a mile ahead of us.
Brother Frost set up his forge after we stopped and done some
work for the Missourians. The Sweet Water Mountains appear
very plain from here, and all of the mountains that are in sight
are all covered with snow..
Thursday, June 24th. This morning was fine but cool. We
proceeded on our journey at 6:15, and after traveling a little
over five miles we came to a swampy place, where there is some
water standing, and there is a hole here called the Ice Spring, the
ice in it being about four inches thick, and the water tastes good.
A short distance further we passed two lakes on our left, the
water of which tastes soft and is not fit for use. After trav-
eling ten and one-quarter miles from the Ice Spring, over a very
uneven road, we descended a very steep bluff, close in the rear of
an Oregon company. The other company halted a few miles
back and we passed them.
At 3 :30 we turned a little south from the road and found a
camp ground, and formed a line so as to close a bend of the
river. We came seventeen and three-quarters miles without
stopping. The feed is good here, and there are plenty of willows,
which answers for fuel. The river is about three rods wide, and
the water clear and cool. A little before dark, when the breth-
ren were driving up their teams, one of President Young's best
horses got shot. While driving him up he tried to run back,
when John Holman reached out his gun to stop him. The cock
caught in his clothes and it went off, the load entering the
horse's body. The horse walked to camp, but it is thought by
many it cannot live. The ball entered a little forward of his
right hind leg, and he appears to be in much pain.
Friday, June 25th. The morning was fine but cool. The
President's horse is dead. At 6:40 we started on our journey,
and forded the river a quarter of a mile below where we camped,
the water being about three feet deep and the current very swift.
We traveled about a half mile and came to a stream about a
rod wide and a foot deep. It appears to come from the north
and empty into the river. About a half mile beyond this stream
we turned to the northwest and began to ascend a very high
bluff, it being over one and one-half miles to the top of it. I
was informed, while crossing the river, that Brother Whipple
PIONEERING THE WEST 85_
could not find a yoke of his oxen. I went up to the top of the
bluff and looked back to the north and discovered two oxen
lying down in a ravine near the river. I went back and, while
preparing to ford the river, I discovered Brother George Billings
hunting for them, and called to him to come and get them.
I remained at the river until he drove them up, the camp
being about three miles ahead, i staid with them for about
four and one-quarter miles from where we encamped. We came
to the river, and traveled a little further, ascending a very steep,
sandy ridge, and after leaving the west foot of the ridge we
came to a stream about twenty-five feet wide, and a quarter of
a mile further we crossed the same, which was only six feet
wide. The last crossing the banks were very soft. About 12
o 'clock we caught up with the camp, they having halted for noon,
having come eight and three-quarters miles. The wind was blow-
ing very strong from the northwest, making it cold and un-
pleasant traveling. Brother Pratt took an observation at this
place and found the latitude to be 42 degrees 28 minutes 36
seconds.
At 1:20 we proceeded on our journey, the road running on
the river bank for about two miles, when we began to ascend hill
after hill for three miles. After traveling seven and three-
quarters miles over a very uneven road we came to a low, swampy
place which was very difficult to cross. About one and one-third
miles beyond the swamp a creek, about a foot wide, was crossed
and another a quarter of a mile further about two feet wide.
At 6 :45 we formed our encampment on the north side of a creek
about five feet wide, having come this afternoon eleven and one-
half miles and during the day twenty and one-quarter miles. This
is a good camp ground, with wood, water and grass in plenty.
Saturday, June 26th. The morning was very cold and we
had a severe frost last night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and
proceeded on our journey, and after traveling one mile we passed
a small creek south of the road and two and one-half miles be-
yond we crossed a branch of the Sweet Water about two rods
wide and two feet deep, with willows growing on the banks,
making it a very good camp ground. After crossing the last
stream, we crossed another high range of hills, from which we
had a good view of Table Rock to the southwest, and the high
broken chain of mountains of the Wind River on the north. At
12:40 we halted for noon on the main branch of the Sweet
Water, having traveled eleven miles.
The river here is about three rods wide and three feet
deep and tlie current is verv swift, the water being very clear
and cold. The snow lays on its banks in some places six and
86 PIONEERING THE WEST
eight feet deep. This is a lovely place for a camp ground.
Some of the younger folks amused themselves snowballing each
other on a large bank of snow. Eric Glines came into camp
soon after we halted, having left the brethren at the upper
ferry on the Platte River. At 2:20 we proceeded on our
journey, ascending 1 a high hill, and found the road pretty good
latitude 42 degrees 22 minutes 62 seconds. After traveling
seven miles we arrived on a level spot of low land, where
we found some grass and halted, while President Young and
some others went over the ridge to look out a camp ground.
Brother Young sent back word for the camp to come on.
Leaving the road and traveling a northwest course we found
our camp ground, at 6:45, on the banks of the Sweet Water
about a quarter of a mile from the road, having come this
afternoon seven and three-quarters miles, and during the day
eighteen and three-quarters miles. This is a good camp ground,
there being plenty of grass and willows.
Brothers Kimball, Pratt and some others went ahead and
about dark Brother Young told me I had better get up a horse,
as there was a small company going in search of them, and he
wanted me to go along with them. We got about a mile from
the camp and met Brother Kimball traveling on foot, who in-
formed us that Brother Pratt and the others were encamped
about six miles ahead, with a small party of mountaineers, who
were going to the states. The word came to Brother Kimball
that there was no prospect of finding water without traveling
some distance ahead. He was to go ahead and find a camp
ground, and if the teams were tired they could stop and
feed, and then go on again, but finding a good camp ground
over the bluffs to the right, it was thought best to stop for
the night. Brother Kimball not seeing the camp coming up,
started back alone with any fire arms and traveled six miles
after dark.
The brethren made a fire on the ridge south of the camp,
which he saw some distance off. When he got to camp he was
about tired out, as he had traveled on foot about fifteen miles
in the afternoon, which blistered his feet very bad. It is ascer-
tained that we are about two miles from the descending ridge
of the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the head-
waters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific, and, although
not the highest land we have traveled over, may with pro-
priety, be said to be the summit of the South Pass.
Sunday, June 27th. The mornins: was fine, but cold. The
ox teams started at 7:55 and the horse teams soon after. The
camp passed the eight men that were going back. They had
PIONEERING THE WEST 87
twenty horses and mules, mostly laden with packs, and some
of the brethren sent letters back by them. We went two and
three-quarters miles and arrived at the dividing ridge. Brother
Pratt took a barometrical observation and -found the altitude
to be This spot is 27S l / 2 miles from Fort John (*Lara
mie) and is supposed to divide the Oregon and Indian Terri-
tories by a line running north and south. Between two and
three miles further we arrived at the place where Brother Pratt
and company camped last. night, at the head waters of Green
River, and, although the streams are small, we have the satis-
faction of seeing the currents run west instead of east.
There is good grass here, but no wood. One of the moun-
taineers is traveling with us today. He wants to pilot some of
the companies to Oregon. He has two pack mules loaded with
skins to trade. His name is Harris. He gives a very discour-
aging account of Bear River Valley and the surrounding coun-
try'. He said: "It is destitute of timber or vegetation, and
the country is sandy, nothing growing there but wild sage. ' ' We
crossed the stream, which is about three feet wide, and stopped
on its bank to feed about 12 o'clock, having come six and three-
quarters miles. The latitude of this place is 42 deg. 18 min. 58
sec. At 2:25 we started on again, the roads being pretty good.
At 7 :20 we encamped on the west bank of the Dry Sandy, hav-
ing traveled nine miles, and during the day fifteen and a, quar-
ter miles. There is no wood here and but little water, and the
feed is poor.
Monday, June 28th. The morning Avas fair, and many of
the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris for buckskins. I tried
to trade with him, but I considered them too high. He .sold
them from $1.50 to $2.00, and made into pants $3.00 and $4.00.
At 7:30 we proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for
the Oregon company to come up. After traveling about six
miles the road forked, one continuing a west course and the
other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road to
California. The junction of the road is 297!/2 miles from Fort
John (*Laramie).
About 1 :40 we arrived at the Little Sandy and stopped on
its east bank to feed, having traveled fourteen and a quarter
miles without seeing wood or water or feed for our teams. This
stream is about twenty feet wide on an average, but at the ford-
ing place it is over three rods wide and two and a half feet deep,
the water being muddy and the current swift. At 5:15 we com-
menced fording the river, and at 5:45 all the wagons were over
safe, with no other loss than two tar buckets. After traveling
a short distance we were met by Mr. Bridger, the principal man
J8 PIONEERING THE WEST
of the fort which bears his name, on his way to Fort John, ac-
companied by two men.
Corn for Jim Brid^er at $1,OOO an Ear.
As we wished to make some inquiries about the country,
he said if we would encamp he would stay with us all night. We
turned off the road a quarter of a mile and encamped near the
Sandy at 6 o'clock, having come a mile and three-quarters, and
during the day fifteen and a quarter miles. We found the feed
pretty good. Soon after we encamped the Twelve and some oth-
ers went to Mr. Bridger to make some inquiries about the coun-
try. I understand that it was impossible to form a correct idea
PIONEERING THE WEST 89
from the very imperfect and irregular way in which he gave the
description. My health has been very poor for the last two
days. I have been afflicted with a very severe headache, but
feel a little better this evening:. As I had not washed my cloth-
ing for some time, I was under the necessity of washing this
evening, and did not get through until after dark. After I ate
supper I went down to where Mr. Bridger was encamped, and
from his appearance and conversation, I should not take him
to be a man of truth. In his description of Bear River Valley
and the surrounding country, which was very good, he crossed
himself a number of times. He said that Harris knew nothing
about that part of the country. He says there is plenty of tim-
ber there; that he had made sugar for the last twenty years
where Harris said there was no timber of any kind. But it is
my opinion that, he spoke not knowing about the place, that
we can depend on until we see for ourselves. Brother King is
sick and there are many in the camp complaining. Brother Kim-
ball does all in his power for the comfort of those that are sick
around him.
Tuesday, June 29th. The morning was very pleasant, and
we started at 7:40 a. m., traveling over a very good road, though
a barren land. At 10 :45 we halted for noon, near the banks of
the Big Sandy, having traveled six and three-quarters miles.
Most of the second division stopped on the other side of the
river, the first division stopping on the north side. The stream
appears to be about seven rods wide at this place and two feet
deep in the channel. There is some timber on its banks and
pretty good feed.
At 1:30 we again preceded on our journey, the road being^
tolerably good. After traveling nine and a half miles Brother
Young, who has been ahead, rode back and told the camp that
they would have to travel at least six miles before they could find
feed. It was then 6:15, but at 9:05 we found ourselves again
on the low lands near the banks of the river. We traveled since
noon seventeen miles, and during the day twenty-three and
three-quarters miles. The feed is very good here. The brethren
found some willows about a mile from the camp, which an-
swered for cooking.
Wednesday, June 30th. The mornimr was hot, but at 8:15
we proceeded on our journey. Several of the brethren were re-
ported sick, and not able to drive their teams. The brethren are
all taken alike, with violent pains in the head and back and a
very hot fever. Some think it is caused bv using the salaratus
that was picked up on the lakes. At 11 :30 we arrived on the
banks of the Green River, having traveled eight miles. It is
JH) PIONEERING THE WEST
about as wide as the Platte, and the current is swift. After din-
ner the second divsion was called together, and twelve men se-
lected to build a raft. The first division also went to work to
build a raft.
There were men picked out to guard the cattle and some to
burn charcoal. Brothers George Billings and Whipple are very
sick. Brother Kimball told me to baptize Brother Billings, as
he had a very high fever. He got relief immediately.
This afternoon Brother Samuel Brannon arrived from the
Bay of San Francisco and had two men with him. One of them
I have seen in Nauvoo. His name is Smith. Brother Brannon
sailed with a company from New York. He reported them all
doing well. There has been some few deaths among them. He
gives a very favorable account of the country. About dark the
brethren completed the rafts.
Native Belles.
PIONEERING THE WEST 91
9. ROCKY MOUNTAINS, JULY, 1847.
Thursday, July 1st, 1847. This morning was pleasant, and
the brethren commenced crossing wagons. The raft made by
the second division did not work well, the logs being water
soaked. They went to work to make another raft. The wind
blew high today and we only got fourteen wagons across.
Brother Clayton was taken very sick this morning.
Friday, .July 2nd. The morning was calm and pleasant. 1
crossed the river early this morning, and helped the brethren
finish the raft, and about 9 o'clock we commenced crossing the
wagons. The Twelve had a council and decided to send three
or four men back to pilot the next company up.
Saturday. July 3rd. The morning was pleasant, and about
noon we got the last wagon over. We hauled one of the rafts
up on the east side of the river for the next company. Brothers
Young and Kimball went ahead to look out a camp ground. The
brethren returned soon after noon and gave orders for us to
harness our teams, and at 3 :15 we again proceeded on our jour-
ney, coming three miles and encamping on the river. The feed
was good. The brethren were called together this evening and
volunteers called for to go back to meet the companies, when
the following persons offered their services: Phineas Young,
Aaron Farr, Eric Glines, Rodney Badger and George Woodard.
As there were not spare horses enough in the camp for each
man to ride, President Young let them have a light wagon to
carry their provisions.
Sunday, July 4th. The morning was fine and pleasant, and
the five brethren started back to meet the camps. President
Young and Kimball and others went back to the ferry with them.
While they were absent some of the brethren assembled in the
circle for meeting. At 2:30 the brethren returned from the
ferry, accompanied by twelve of the brethren from Pueblo, who
belonged to the army. They report the remainder of the com-
pany about eight flays* travel behind. One of Brother Crow's
oxen was found dead this afternoon. My health is very poor,
for I have taken cold from working in the water, which has
brought on the mountain fever again. It is a distressing com-
plaint, and I took a lobelia emetic this evening, and H. C. Kim-
ball administered to me, which relieved me some.
PIONEERING THE WEST
Monday, July 5th. At 8 o 'clock we proceeded on our jour-
ney, though there are many of the brethren sick. I spent a
very sick night. We traveled three and a half miles on the
banks of the river, at which point the road leaves the river and
bends to the westward. At 4 :45 we arrived at Black 's Fork and
encamped, having come twenty miles, sixteen and a half of it
without water. This stream is about six rods wide and the cur-
rent is very swift. There is a place where we might have saved
a mile by digging down a bank. We have passed over several
steep places today.
Tuesday, July 6th. The morning was very pleasant, and at
7:50 we started on our journey. We traveled four and three^
quarters miles and crossed Haw's Fork, a rapid stream about
three rods wide and two feet deep. It would be a good camp
ground, as the f eed? is good. We came a mile and a half further
and crossed Black's Fork, a stream about eight rods wide and
two and a half feet deep. There is but little grass on its banks.
After traveling eleven miles beyond the last stream we crossed
a small creek about two feet wide. At 4 o'clock we crossed
Black's Fork again, and encamped on its banks, having come
eighteen and one-quarter miles.
Wednesday, July 7th. We proceeded on our journey at 7 :45
a. m., and after traveling two and one-half miles we crossed
Black's Fork again. There is an abundance of good feed here,
and a large quantity of wild flax, also beautiful flowers growing.
We traveled two and three-quarter miles further and crossed
a stream about two rods wide and two feet deep, the current
being very swift. At 12 o'clock we halted for noon on the
banks of the last stream, having traveled nine miles over a very
rough road. The wind blows strong, which makes it dusty and
disagreeable traveling.
At 1:40 we started again, and after traveling seven and a
half miles we came in sight of a number of Indian lodges on
the south side of the road. The most of them are occupied by
half-breed traders. There are also American traders here. One
of them, Mr. Goodall, was one who passed us at the Platte River.
We continued on and crossed four streams that would average
about a rod wide, the current being very swift, when we arrived
at Fort Bridger, which is 397 miles from Fort John. We came
about half a mile past the fort and encamped, after crossing
three more creeks. This afternoon we traveled eight and three-
quarters miles, and during the day seventeen and three-quarters
miles. Grass is much higher at this place than we have generally
seen it. The whole region seems to be filled with rapid streams,
PIONEERING THE WEST
all bending their way to the principal fork. They all, doubt-
less, originate from the melting snows in the mountains.
Iiidian Encampment.
Bridger's Fort is composed of two log houses, about forty
feet long each, and joined by a pen for horses, about ten feet
high, and constructed by placing poles upright in the ground
close together. There are several Inclian lodges close by, and
a full crop of young children, playing around the doors. The
Indians are said to be the Snake tribe. The latitude of Fort
Bridger is 41 deg. 19 min. 13 sec., and its height above the level
of the sea, according to Elder Pratt 's observation, is 6665 feet.
Thursday, July 8th. The morning was fine, but the wind
was high. It was thought best to stop here today to set some
wagon tires, and let the brethren have an opportunity to trade.
I traded off two rifles, one belonging to Brother Whipple and
one to Brother G. Billings, for nineteen buck skins and three
elk skins and some other articles for making moccasins. A coun-
cil met and settled some difficulty between George Mills and
Andrew Gibbons. It was decided that Thomas Williams and S.
Brannon should return from here and meet Captain Brown's
company from Pueblo.
Friday, July 9th. We started at 8 o'clock on our journey
westward, the road being rough. We traveled six and a half
miles and arrived at the Springs, where we halted to rest our
teams). We then proceeded on three and a quarter miles and
began to ascend a long, steep hill, near the top of which Brother
Pratt took observations and found the latitude to be 41 deg. 16
min. 11 sec. It is eight miles from Fort Bridger. The descent
from the top of this hill is the steepest and most dificult we
have ever met with, it being long and almost perpendicular. At
_94 PIONEERING THE WEST
3 o'clock we crossed the Muddy Fork, a stream about twelve
feet wide, and encamped on its banks, having traveled six and
three-quarters miles, and during- the day thirteen miles. There
is plenty of tall bunch grass here. The day has been warm and
dusty.
Saturday, July 10th. At 8 o'clock we proceeded on our
journey, and after traveling three and' a half miles we passed
a small copperas spring at the foot of a mountain, a little to the
left of the road; and two and a half miles from this spring we
found a very steep and rough place to descend, and found it nec-
essary to stop halfway down and repair the road. About twenty
miles from Fort Bridger we passed another spring, came a short
distance further and arrived at the bottom, where the grass was
very plentiful. At 1 :45 we halted for noon, having come nine
miles, which is in latitude 41 deg. 14 min. 21 sec. In about an
hour and a half we again proceeded on our journey, and traveled
three and a half miles, where we began to ascend the dividing
ridge between the waters of the Colorado and the Great Basin.
This mountain is very high, and the ascent is very steep.
The descent was very steep, and we had to lock our wheels
'for about a half mile, where we traveled on the bottom a few
miles between high, rugged mountains. After rising another
high ridge, w r e crossed a small creek about ten feet wide. At
7:45 \ve encamped on its banks, having traveled this afternoon
nine miles, and during the day eighteen miles, over the most
mountainous road we have yet seen. Soon after we encamped
Mr. Miles Goodier came into our camp. He is the man who is
settled near the Salt Lake. He thinks it is about seventy-five
miles from here to his place. He gives a favorable report of the
country. There is a beautiful spring' of water 100 yards south-
west of our camp.
Sunday, July llth. The morning was very cool, and we
found ice in our water pails. During the day some of the
brethren found an oil spring, about one mile south of the camp.
It resembled tar and is very 'oily. Porter Rockwell and Brother
Little and some others went with Mr. Goodier to look out the
road. After dark the brethren were called together to decide
which road they would take, as there are two roads. They de-
cided to take the right hand road.
Monday, July 12th. The morning was cloudy and cool, and
we proceeded on our journey at 7 :30, traveled one and one-quar-
ter miles and ascended a very steep hill, and a half mile further
we crossed Bear river, a very rapid stream about six rods wide
and two feet deep, the banks of which were lined with willows
and a little timber. About half a mile from the ford we passed
PIONEERING THE WEST 95^
over another high ridge, and descended into a narrow bottom,
which appeared fertile, there being plenty of grass, but no tim-
ber. Beyond Bear river three-quarters of a mile we passed a
spring of clear, cold water, and at 11:50 we halted for noon,
having come nine and three-quarters miles.
President Young was taken sick this forenoon. After rest-
ing two hours all the camp, except eight wagons, proceeded on
their journey. President Young not being able to go on, Brother
Kimball 's three wagons remained behind. Brother Rockwood is
also very sick.
Tuesday, July 13th. This morning was pleasant. Brother
Brown and Brother Mathews returned and reported that the
camp was six and three-quarters miles ahead. Brother Kimball
and myself returned with the brethren to the camp. Brother
Young and Brother Rockwood remained very sick today. When
Brother Kimball arrived at the camp, he called a meeting and
proposed that a company go ahead with Elder Pratt to hunt out
the road. Soon after dinner a company of twenty wagons,
with Brother Pratt at their head, prepared to go ahead. About
a half mile west from the camp there is a cave in the rocks
about forty feet long and fifteen feet wide and about five feet
high. At 3 o'clock we returned back to the camp, accompanied
by George A. Smith.
The following is a list of the names of those who have gone
ahead: Orson Pratt (commander of the company), Stephen
Markham (aid), 0. P. Rockwell, J. Redding, Nathaniel Fair-
banks, James Egbert, John S. Freeman, Marcus B. Thorpe, Rob-
ert Crow, Benjamin B. Crow, John Crow. Walter H. Crow, George
W. Thirlkill, James Chesney, Lewis B. Myers, John Brown,
Shadrack Roundy, H. C. Hansen, Levi Jackman", Lyman Curtis,
David Powers, Oscar Crosby, Hark Lay, Joseph Mathews, Gil-
bert Sumner, Gilbroid Sumne, Green Flake, John S. Gleason,
Charles Burke, Norman Taylor, A. P. Chesley, Seth Taft, Horace
Thornton, Stephen Kelsey, David Grant. James W. Stewart, Rob-
ert Thomas. C. D. Barnum, John S. Eldredge, Elijah Newman,
Francis Boggs. Levi N. Kendall.
First division 7 wagons 15 men
Second division 16 wagons 27 men
Total 23 wagons 42 men
Wednesday, July 14th. The morninir was pleasant. Elder
Woodruff and Adams came from the other camp to see the
sick, who were getting better. Brothers Woodruff anil Adams
ate supper with Brother Kimbali. Brother Woodruff is iroinp:
to bring his carriage in the morning for Brothers Young and
PIONEERING THE WEST
Rockwood to ride in, as they think they will be able to go
ahead in the morning. I went on the top of a high mountain
with Brothers Kimball, Benson, and L. Young and offered our
prayers to the Almighty God in behalf of the sick and for
our' dear families.
Thursday, July 15th. The morning was cloudy. About
8 o'clock Elder Woodruff arrived Vith his carriage, and we
started soon after, and at 12 o'clock we arrived at the camp
ahead, when orders were given for the brethren to gather up
their teams, and at 1 :40 we proceeded on our journey. Just
before we started we had a refreshing shower. After traveling
two. miles we passed a cool spring of water at the foot of a
hill to the right of the road. At 3:30 we encamped near the
foot of a high red bluff, having traveled four and a half miles.
We had two more beautiful showers this afternoon. The feed
is good here, and a good spring of water to the left of the
road.
Friday, July 16th. This morning we had two pleasant
showers, accompanied with loud thunder. At 8:45 we pro-
ceeded on our journey, and traveled through a narrow ravine
(Echo canyon), between very high mountains. After traveling
one and one-half miles we passed a steep ravine, where most
of the teams had to double to get up. A half mile further we
crossed the creek and found the crossing very bad. Harvey
Peirce broke his wagon reach and bolster. While they were
repairing the wagon, the brethren found a better place to cross
the creek. At 12:30 we halted to feed, having traveled six
and three-fourths miles.
0. P. Rockwell returned from Brother Pratt 's company,
and reported that it is about twenty-five or thirty miles to
the canyon, they have found, that leads to the cut-off over the
mountains. They expect to arrive at the top of the mountains
today. At 2:20 we proceeded on our journey. The road winds
through a narrow bottom, bounded by high mountains on each
side, towering some hundreds of feet above our heads, our road
sometimes running over small hills, and through dense thickets
of willows. At 6 p. m. we encamped, having traveled nine and
one-fourth miles, and during the day sixteen and three-fourths
miles. A short distance ahead can be seen Weber fork.
Saturday, July 17. It was a bright and beautiful morning,
and we started about 8:30 a. m. The ten to which Father
Chamberlain belongs (eleventh ten), remained behind until his
wagon was repaired. We descended a sloping hill, and carne
to the Weber fork, and turned short to the right, came a mile
and a half and encamped on its banks, about 10 a. m., having
PIONEERING THE WEST 97_
traveled about two and one-half miles. The reason of our
stopping so soon was in consequence of President Young being
suddenly taken quite ill, and could not endure to travel any
farther today.
The river is bounded in places by high banks, being lined
on either side with dry and green cottonwood trees. The grass
is very good on the bottom. I went in company with Elders
Kimball, G. A. Smith, Dr. Richards, Brother Benson and others,
nine in all, to the top of a very high mountain, and clothed
ourselves to pray for President Young and others that were
sick, and for our families, etc., etc. We had a glorious time,
and I thank the Lord for the privilege. About 6 o'clock.
Brother Kimball requested me to ride ahead with him and three
or four others to see the canyon, which we supposed to be
about seven miles from the camp, but when we arrived there
it was dark and we could not see much. The evening turned
very cold and we started for the camp and arrived about
10:30 p. m.
Sunday, July 18th. It was a pleasant morning, and the
camp was called together before breakfast, at Dr. Richard's
wagon, when Brother Kimball addressed them. He told them
that President Young was very sick, and it wa? his mind that
the brethren should stay in the camp and not go out hunting
or fishing, but have a meeting, and offer up our prayers in
behalf of President Young and others who were sick and
afflicted. It was motioned that the brethren meet at 10 a. m. f
the meeting to be conducted by the bishops. We had a very
good meeting. It was decided that the camp move on in the
morning, except a few wagons to remain with Brother Young;
and the first good place they could find they were to put in
seeds, such as potatoes, in order to save the seed buckwheat
and all kinds that would grow this season of the year. After
an hour's intermission the brethren came together again and
partook of the Sacrament. Brother Kimball gave us some good
instructions, which done my soul good, and we had a very good
meeting.
Monday, July 19th. The morning was pleasant, and the
portion of the camp that were going ahead, forty-one wagons,
started at 7:45. leaving fifteen wagons to remain. Three of
Brother Kimball 's wagons remained behind and three went
ahead. Dr. Richards lost one of his steers, and had to remain
behind until we started, which was about 0:30. We traveled
about a mile and a half and encamped. Soon after we stopped
I rode ahead, with Elder Kimball, George A. Smith, Benson and
Woodruff, to view the country. About two miles ahead we
_98 PIONEERING THE WEST
caught up with Dr. Richards' teams, and one mile further we
found Brother E. Snow with his wagon broke down. We
traveled about four miles further and came up with the camp,
about 1 p. m. near the top of the mountain. We saw two
springs on our way up, and crossed a small stream a number
of times.
We descended the hill aJ3out two miles and then turned off
to the right, and ascended a hill to see w r hat direction the
road ran. About two miles from the summit of the mountain,
the road turned suddenly to the westward. Here Brother G. A.
Smith left us and went on with the camp, and we returned
to our camp. We found the flies very troublesome to our
horses as we returned. We reached the camp about 4:30, hav-
ing traveled about twenty miles. Brothers Gushing, Murray
and some others rode ahead to see the canyon. The brethren
have caught a number of trout. President Young is some bet-
ter this evening. Elder Kimball's health is pretty good, but
he is generally reduced, and fatigued by anxiety and riding
and looking out roads, etc. All the sick are recovering. The
evening is pleasant. In the canyon is a stream of water con-
fined, flowing between rocks.
Tuesday, July 20th. This morning was pleasant. Presi-
dent Young's health continues to improve, and it was thought
best to travel in the cool of the morning, so we started at 5 :30,
came about one mile and crossed Weber river, which is about
five or six rods wide and about two feet deep, and is a beau-
tiful clear stream. We traveled about three-fourths of a mile
and came to a guide board, put up by William Clayton, with
the following inscription on it: " Pratt 's Pass, to avoid the
canyon; 74*4 miles from Fort Bridger." Here the road turns
to the southwest. We traveled about two miles further and
stopped to get breakfast, near a cool, clear stream of water.
The feed is pretty good here, and there is some little wood, and
it is a pretty good camp ground.
After one and one-half hours' stop, Ave again proceeded on
our journey. I went ahead with four or five others to repair
the road. We traveled about six miles, and encamped in a
valley that is bounded in on all sides by mountains. There is
plenty of feed and water here, and some willows and sage
roots that answers for fuel. Elder Kimball and Benson went
ahead to see if they could not travel much farther. The
brethren returned about 3:30 and reported that they found a
good camp ground about three and one-half miles ahead, where
there was three wagons encamped, Brother Goddard, Father
PIONEERING THE WEST
Case and William Smoot, who remained behind in consequence
of sickness.
We started about 4:30 and traveled about a quarter of a
mile and began to ascend a long winding hill, the road bending
to the south; we then descended a hill which was very rough.
We passed over a number of steep pitches, the road bending to
the west for a short distance, and then to the south again.
We then came to a beautiful stream, about two rods wide and
eighteen inches deep, which we crossed twice in traveling about
one-fourth of a mile, and encamped on its banks. The feed is
good here, and the banks of the stream are lined with willows.
It is reported that Brother Pratt 's company is about eight
miles ahead, and Brother G. A. Smith's wagon is broke down.
For about five miles, it is said, the road is very bad. We
traveled today twelve and one-half miles.
Wednesday, July 21st. The morning was warm and pleas-
ant. Brother Young- was not able to travel today, being much
fatigued by yesterday's travel. Brothers Kimbail, Benson and
L. Young rode out to survey the country, and returned this
afternoon. They had been to the canyon, which is about seven
and one-half miles from here. The stream that we are en-
camped on. I understand, is Ogden's fork (*East Canyon creek).
Its course here is about north, but a short distance below, it
turns suddenly to the west, and runs between two mountains,
for a half mile it is very narrow. The brethren went down it
about half way on foot and could not go any further. The water
rushes between the rocks, and some places under them, and is
six or eight feet deep in places. President Young is much bet-
ter this evening, and will probably be able to travel tomorrow.
Father Sherwood and the other brethren that are sick are much
better. I spent part of this afternoon washing clothes. Brother
Biard and myself stood guard the better part of the night, last
night.
Thursday, July 22nd. The morning was cloudy. President
Young is some better, and Father Sherwood is doing well. About
7:30 we again proceeded on our journey, about a south course,
and traveled about two miles when Father Case rode up and
reported that one of his wagon wheels had broken down. About
a mile further \ve stopped. I went back in company with
Brothers Kimball and Benson to help Father Case up. Brother
Kimbail cut a pole and we lashed it under the axletree, and put
Brother Benson's horse ahead of the others and hauled him up.
We had a Huht shower this forenoon. The brethren took out
most of Father Case's load and we proceeded on our journey,
having crossed Ogden's fork four times this forenoon. The
100 PIONEERING THE WEST
road is stoney and rough. This afternoon we crossed the stream
seven times, the road winding through a long narrow ravine,
and over hills, and through dense thickets of willows and eot-
tonwood groves. We came about eight miles and crossed a very
bad slough. One of Brother Young's horses mired down. He
had to unhitch him to get him out.
We then ascended a steep hill and found a billet, leii by
Brother Pratt, which read as follows: "July 20th, Canyon
Creek, Tuesday morning: To Willard Richards, G. A. Smith or
any of the Saints : From this point it is five miles west to the
Aspen Forest in Wasatch Range.
summit of the dividing ridge. The road will be of a moderate
descent, and considerable better than the one you have passed
over for a few miles back. The ravine up which you will go
is without water, except two or three small springs, which
soon loose themselves beneath the soil. You will pass through
groves of quaking asp, balsam, and cottonwood, more than you
have seen for many days. From the dividing ridge, you will
make a more rapid descent. The hill for a short distance will
be quite steep, though straight and smooth. We have descended
worse since we left Fort Bridger. You will go down about six
miles when you will find a camping place, the grass being
middling good. You will find a small spring about 100 rods
after leaving the dividing ridge, which soon loses itself in the
soil. The bed of the stream remains mostly dry for two or
PIONEERING THE WEST 101
three miles, where you will strike a stream nearly one-third
as large as the one where I leave this note. Your road in
descending will lead through quite a timbered forest, of prin-
cipally aspens, but some underwood of oak and small maple.
The soil is extremely rich. About one and one-half miles be-
yond the camping ground, above mentioned, you will find quite
a lengthy hill, to avoid passing through a rough rocky canyon.
You will then descend in a ravine for three or four miles onto
a broad and comparatively level valley, and which is probably
an arm of prairie, putting up among the mountains from the
western outlet. Most respectfully Orson Pratt."
"Elders Amasa Lyman, Charles C. Rich, and the saints: I
leave you an extract of a letter from Orson Pratt found at this
camping ground, for your benefit and guidance. Yours very
truly, Thomas Bullock, Clerk of Pioneer Camp."
We then descended a steep hill and encamped on the banks
of Ogden's fork about a quarter of a mile beyond where we
found the letter, having traveled seven and one-half miles. The
sick are getting better this evening.
Friday, July 23rd. The morning was warm and pleasant,
and we proceeded on our journey about 6:45, the road leaving
the stream here and turning short to the west, and passing up
a ravine, about a west course over a gradual ascent. The road
is rough, rocky, and sideling in many places, and leads through
dense thickets of underbrush, and quite a forest of hemlock and
poplar trees. At length, after traveling about four miles, we
attained the summit of the hill. Here we had a fine view of
the snowy mountains and the open country in the distance. We
have passed two or three springs during our travel this fore-
noon. We have begun to descend a long steep hill (*Big moun-
tain), part of the way we had to chain both wheels. The descent
is winding over a rough road, there being many stumps to
annoy us.
About half way down Brother L. Young's ox wagon turned
over. His two little boys were in the wagon at the time, but
providentially escaped uninjured, though part of the load, hav-
ing been disarranged, rolled upon them, stopping up the
entrance, but they were liberated by cutting a hole in the wagon
cover.
As we descended, the road bearing to the south, we crossed
a small stream six times, which ran along the base of the hill
through a ravine (*Parley's canyon), and after having come
six and one-half miles down a gradual descent we encamped
on an open area of ground, spoken of by Orson Pratt, as being
an arm of prairie, putting up among the mountains from the
102 PIONEERING THE WEST
western outlet, about 12 o'clock, having come this forenoon about
eight and one-half miles.
While we were stopped here, J. Pack and Joseph Mathews
rode up on horseback. They reported both companies of the
brethren to be about fourteen miles ahead, encamped in a valley
about twenty-five miles from Salt Lake, which could be
seen in the distance to the northwest. When they left this
morning the brethren were preparing to move four miles
farther, and then stop and commence planting. They say the
soil is very rich and fertile. They also brought a letter from
0. Pratt,. G. A. Smith and W. Richards to President Young,
giving an account of the road and the general features of the
country, etc.
After a halt of about two hours we again proceeded on our
journey, going south of west a short distance, the valley be-
coming more confined in its limits as we advanced, until we
began to ascend a long steep hill, which is about one and one-
half miles to the top. Here Brothers Pack and Mathews left
us and Avent ahead. We began to descend a long steep hill
(*Little mountain), bearing a southwest course. The most of
the way we had to chain both wheels. As we descended the
above hill we saw an abundance of service berries. At 5 p. m.
we encamped at the base of the hill, on the banks of a small
clear stream of cool Avater (*Emigration Canyon creek). Its
banks are thickly skirted with quaking asp and cottonwood
trees. We have come this afternoon three miles, and during
the day eleven and one-half miles.
A short time after our arrival at this place, the sky be-
came overcast with clouds, and a strong wind, setting in from
the southwest, gives the appearance of a very heavy storm. The
grass here is rather tall and rank, though in places is pretty
good. The sick are gaining strength as fast as could be ex-
pected, considering the fatigue of the journey. The day has
been the hottest we have experienced since we left Winter
Quarters. There was not a breath of air in the ravine, and
the dust was almost suffocating.
PIONEERING THE WEST 103
SEC. III. WHAT WAS DONE AT SALT LAKE AND
RETURN TRIP.
Saturday, July 24th. The morning was pleasant. In get-
ting up our horses we discovered that some were missing, two
of Brother Whitney's and two of Brother Smooths. The camp
started, leaving Brothers Whitney's and Smoot's wagons be-
hind. I rode ahead about a mile and could not find them, nor
see any tracks. I then returned and went back about three
miles and found them. After I got to the wagons, Brother
Whitney and I got on our horses and rode ahead. The road
was rough and uneven, winding along a narrow ravine, cross-
ing the small stream, which we last encamped on, about fif-
teen or twenty times. We then left the ravine and turned to
the right and ascended a very steep pitch, where we beheld
the great valley of the Salt Lake spreading out before us.
My heart felt truly glad, and I rejoiced at having the
privilege of beholding this extensive and beautiful valley, that
may yet bec6me a home for the Saints. From this point we
could see the blue waters of the Salt Lake. By ascending one
of the ridges at the mouth of this canyon, the view over the
valley is at once pleasing and interesting. These high moun-
tains on the east side, extending to the head of the valley,
about fifty miles to the south, many of them white on the tops
ajid crevises with snow. At the south end is another moun-
tain, which bounds the valley in that direction, and at its west-
ern extremity it is joined by another range, forming its west-
em boundary to the valley and extending in a northerly direc-
tion until it ceases abruptly nearly west of this place. The
valley between these mountains is judged to be twenty-five to
thirty miles wide at the north end of the last mentioned moun-
tain. The level valley extends to the Salt Lake, which is plainly
visible for many miles in a western direction from this place.
In the lake, and many miles beyond this valley, are two
mountains projecting high in the air, forming a solemn but
pleasing contrast with the dark blue waters of the lake. Be-
yond these two mountains and in the distance, in a direction
between them, is another hiirh dark mountain, supposed to be
on the western boundary of the lake, and .111 dared to be eighty
104 PIONEERING THE WEST
to one hundred miles from here. At this distance we can see,
apparently, but a small surface of the water, extending- between
this valley and the mountains referred to, but that surface is
probably thirty miles wide. Looking to the northwest, another
mountain appears, extending to the north till hidden by the
eastern range. At the base of this mountain is a long ridge
of white substance, which from its bright shining appearance
is doubtless salt, and was probably caused by the dashing of
the waves, and then hardened by the sun.
The whole surface of the valley appears, from here, to be
level and beautiful. The distance from here to the lake is
judged to be forty to fifty miles. Throughout the whole ex-
tent of the valley can be seen very many green patches of
rich looking grass, which no doubt lays on the banks of creeks
and streams. There is some little timber also on the streams,
and in the direction of the great lake many small lakes appear
upon the surface, the waters of Avhich are doubtless salty.
From a careful view of the appearance of the valley from this
place, it cannot be concluded to be otherwise than rich and
very fertile.
After leaving the canyon about two miles we came in sight
of the other camps, a few miles to the west. Proceeding on
we found the road descending gradually but very rapidly. At
11:45 we arrived at the camp of the brethren, having traveled
liine and one-fourth miles today, making the total distance
from the guide board at Pratt 's Pass to this place 41 1 / 4 miles,
arid from Fort Bridger 115 Vv miles, and from Fort John (*Lar-
arnie), 512y 2 miles.
On our arrival among the brethren we found them busily
engaged in plowing and planting potatoes. They have already
plowed a number of acres, and got considerable planted. Others
of the brethren are engaged in building a dam on the creek to
turn the water on the land, so as to supply the lack of rain
by irrigation, for which this place is admirably adapted, on
account of the manv streams descending from the mountains,
The descent being rapid, the water courses can easily be turned
to any portion of the land at pleasure and little labor.
About 5 o'clock this evening the sky became overcast with
clouds and the rumbling of thunder could be heard in the dis-
tance, and to all appearance there was a heavy storm approach-
ing. The wind blew up strong from the southwest, when it be-
gan to rain, the wind changing to the north, but the heaviest
of the storm passed to the southwest of us. Notwithstanding,
we had a sufficient rain to moisten the soil, which is quite en-
couraging to us.
PIONEERING TIM: WEST
105
This valley is bounded by high mountains, some of them
covered with snow, and from what knowledge we have of it at
present, this is the most safe and secure place the Saints could
possibly locate themselves in. Nature has fortified this place
on all sides, with only a few narrow passes, which could be
made impregnable without much difficulty. The scarcity of
timber has probably been the reason that this beautiful valley
has not been settled long since by the Gentiles. But I thini
we can find sufficient timber up the creeks for present purposes,
and also coal in the mountains. The saints have reason to
rejoice, and thank the Lord for this goodly land unpopulated
bv the Gentiles.
Result of ThiM Flrt Start of Irrigation.
Sunday, July 25th. The morning was warm and pleasant,
and at 10 o'clock the bugle sounded for the brethren to come
together for meeting. Elders Kimball, G. A. Smith and E. T.
Benson spoke on different subjects and gave some general in-
structions. After meeting Brother Kimball gave me a list of
names of persons which he wished me to notify, and have them
retire to a grove a short distance from the camp. The follow-
ing is a list of the names : William King, Hosea Cushing, Orson
106 PIONEERING THE W E S T
Whipple, George Billings, Thomas Cloward, Robert Biard, Carlos
Murray, Orson K. Whitney, Hans C. Hansen, Jackson Reding,
H. K. Whitney, Philo Johnson, Charles Harper and myself.
Heber C. Kimball.
We met about 1 p. m., when Elder Kimball addressed them
in substance as follows : Most of you here present have be-
come adopted into my family, except a very few (calling- them
by name), and Harris, who has become connected by marriage
with my family. But I do not care for that, you are all the
same to me, and your interest is my interest, for what is mine
is yours and what is yours is your own. If I have the privilege
of building a house, I want you lo help me and I will help
you. Harris will want to build a house for his father's fam-
ily, if they should come up, and there is plenty of timber in
the hills. When my family comes up, we may conclude to
PIONEERING THE WEST 107
settle somewhere else; if so, there will be plenty to buy us out,
if we shall have made any improvements. 1 want you all to
be prudent and take care of your horses and cattle, and every-
thing entrusted to your care. It would be a good plan and
pirobably will be done, for those who stay here, to go back
on the Sweet Water and kill buffalos for winter consumption.
We shall go tomorrow, if Brigham is well enough, in search of
a better location if. indeed, such can be found. If not, we shall
remain here. There should be an enclosure made for the pur-
pose of keeping our hordes and cattle in nights, for there are
plenty of Indians in the vicinity. I should a 1 vise you to
keep the Sabbath day holv, whether others do or not. I want
you to put all the seed into the ground that von think will
come to maturity. I am satisfied that buckwheat will do as
well here as any other seed we can sow. I want also some
peach stones and apple seeds to be planted forthwith. Brothers
Biard and Hanson I would like to have immediately engaged in
making garments of buckskins, and Brother Cloward in mak-
ing shoes, and Brother Johnson in making hats as soon as pos-
sible.
If you wish to go hunting, fishing, or to see the country,
select a week-day for that purpose. Do not let us get giddy and
light-minded, as the Nephrites did of old, but strive to work
righteousness in the beginning, inasmuch as we have reached
"the promised land." If it is advisable to work in a familv
capacity we will do so, and, if in a Church capacity, we should
be equally willing to do that. T am going out on a scout with
the brethren and T shall probably want one or two of you to
go with me, and also one or two wagons. I am not going to
take anything back with me to Wniter Quarters, only what is
really necessary. Even some of my clothes I shall leave be-
hind. I shall leave Bishop Whipple with you. He is quite a
steady and economical man, and as such I recommend him to
you. I want every man to be as industrious as possible while
I am gone, and get into the ground all the turnips, cabbage
and other seeds you can.
In case a storm of snow should come on, it would be ad'
visable to drive all the cattle among ihe willows, where they
can remain till the snow goes off. T want you all to work to-
gether until such time shall come that every man shall have
his inheritance set off to him. I feel toward von as a father
toward his children, and I want you to banish all peevishness
from among your midst and accommodate yourselves as much
as possible to each other's wishes. I have it to say; my boys
have been faithful to their various duties on this journey, and
108 PIONEERING THE WEST
other people have noticed it and expressed their opinions, that
they never saw such an attentive set of men in their lives, and
I consider their conduct is worthy of imitation. I want you to
be sober arid prayerful, and remember me and my family in
your prayers. ' '
A number of other good ideas were advanced by Brother
Kimball of an edifying nature, and then he closed the meeting
by prayer. At 2 p. m. we all retired separately to the camp,
having enjoyed one of the happiest and best meeting's we have
had for a long time. A meeting was again held this afternoon
in the circle. The brethren were successively addressed by
Elders Woodruff, Pratt and W. Richards on subjects of a gen-
eral nature, and in particular, the good fortune that had attended
our safe arrival at this place without the loss of any indi-
vidual by death or otherwise on the road. Brother Young
advised the brethren to tie up their horses every night. About
6 p. m. the meeting was dismissed.
Brother Young called the attention of the brethren a few
moments. He said he hoped all those who had found articles
of any description on the road would make it known, that the
owners might get them. He said a dishonest man was a curse to
the saints, and he might live with them 969 years and go to
hell and be damned at last. He said that if a man retained
anything which did not belong to him, it would leak out in the
course of time, and it would prove a curse to him, and would
be a stain on him and his posterity that never would be wiped
out in time and throughout all eternity 7 , and the stain never
would be wiped out until it was burned out in hell.
Monday, July 26th. The morning was somewhat cloudy,
and at 6 a. m. the bugle sounded for the brethren to collect
their horses and cattle to recommence plowing and planting, the
teams to be relieved at intervals of every four hours during the
day. Fifteen men were selected to go and make a road through
a defile in the mountains, where we expected to find timber for
building. We put up our tent this morning, in the grove where
we had our meeting yesterday, for the brethren to work in.
Brother Biard has commenced making a pair of pants for me
out of buckskins, and Brother Cloward is mending the Elders
shoes.
President Young, Kimball and others rode this afternoon
to view the country. They went up a hgh mountain about three
miles from the camp, which is about northwest from here. They
appeared to be delighted with the view of the surrounding
country on their return. Elder Kimball missed his spy glass-
and returned back in search of it, accompanied by Brothers
PIONEERING THE WEST 109
Benson and Richards. He went to the top of the mountain in
search of his glass, but could not find it.
At the foot of the mountain is a hot spring, where Brothers
Benson and Richards bathed. They report it to be as hot as
they could bear. Brothers Clayton and G. A. Smith went about
two miles further than the brethren and came to a stream
("Jordan river), about 5 or 6 rods wide and about 31/2 feet deep,
which comes from the south end of the valley and runs into the
Salt Lake. Brothers J. Brown and J. Mathews started out
early this morning to explore the country. They returned this
evening and reported that they had been on the mountain that is
southwest of us. They found a horse near the mountain, a,bout
six years old, and brought him to the camp. Elder Kimball
found his spy glass as he returned home.
Tuesday, July 27th. The morning was warm, but some-
what cloudy. The bugle sounded as usual for the brethren to
go to work, plowing and planting. There was a small company
sent back on the road five or six miles with two wagons to get
logs to saw up to make a boat. Soon after breakfast two
Indians of the Eutaw (Utah) tribe came to camp. They were
somewhat slightly clad in skins, and are quite small in stature.
J. Redding exchanged a gun with one of them for a horse.
Brother G. R. Grant also exchanged a gun for a pony. They
gave us to understand by signs, that there was a large party
of them about forty miles from here.
The Twelve and some others started on an exploring ex-
pedition this morning. Before they got out of sight three
horsemen were seen coming toward the camp. Brother Kimball
waited a few minutes until they arrived. It proved to be
Brothers Amasa Lyman, Brannon, J. Stevens and Rodney
Badger. They report the Battalion to be about two days'
journey from here. Brothers Lyman and Brannon joined the
expedition. This afternoon five or six more Indians came into
camp, and staid all night.
Before Brother Kimball left he informed me, that Brother
Brisrham w r as going to move his wagons about three-quarters of
a mile northwest, and he wanted me to move three of our wagons
also. Soon after they started I commenced hauling the wagons
up, crossing a small stream and encamped on the banks of
another stream (City creek). We also moved our tent up this
evening, and I hauled Brother Benson 's Avagon up. Dr. Richards
is also going to move up, which will make quite a number.
The brethren are all busily engaged, plowing and planting.
Elder Kimball keeps an ox team and a four mule team plowing,
and is going to start another four mule team. Brother Cushing
110
PIONEERING THE WEST
and Brother Johnson are plowing- today. Brothers Whipple and
Billings are planting. Brother King accompanied the expedition.
Brothers Cloward and Baird and Hanson are at their usual
occupation. Brother Clayton is engaged in writing up H. C.
Kimball's journal. Brother C. Murray is waiting on Ellen
(Saunders). There are five prairie teams kept constantly
plowing and three teams harrowing. The longitude of the
Warm Springs is 42 degrees 15 minutes 6 seconds.
Wednesday, July 28th. The morning was warm and pleas-
ant, and the brethren were engaged in plowing as usual. This
Exact Size, Facsimile of July 28th, 1847, as Written by Howard
l-:-n in His Diary, the Original of \Vhich We Have.
morning Brother Redding and myself harnessed up a mule that
never had been worked, in order to brake him in so he could be
used to plow. He worked very well, and we hauled some poles
to make a bowery over our wagons. Last night I was out late
hunting our horses, and I took supper with Brother Redding
PIONEERING THE WEST 111
and lodged with him. Brother Brannon returned this afternoon
and reported that the Twelve were on their way back to camp.
Brother Joseph Hancock brought in a deer, which he killed
today, to camp.
T4ie brethren of the Twelve arrived at the camp this evening
very much fatigued by their journey. They report seeing a
number of large caves in the rocks along the mountains, one
of which they could ride their horses in forty or fifty feet.
They also saw a number of wild goats. Brother Woodruff lost
his whip, and went back about three miles, and saw a party of
Indians a short distance off. One of them rode up to him and
shook hands with him, and made signs that they were going to
the north part of the lake. The brethren bathed in the lake,
the waters of which are so extremely salt that a man could not
sink in it, if he should try. On the margin is vast quantities
of salt of a superior quality, a sample of which Brother Young
brought home with him. They reported it as one of the most
beautiful places they had ever seen. I will give a general de-
scription of the lake and the surrounding country hereafter, as
I expect to visit it before I return to Winter Quarters.
The brethren of the Twelve wished me to notify Brother
Markham to have the brethren meet close by our camp at 8
o'clock this evening. They were addressed by President Young
pertaining- to our locating here. He said he wanted the brethren
to express their feelings on the subject. Many of the brethren
did so, and were in favor of settling here. It was moved and
seconded that we should locate in this valley for the present,
and lay out a city at this place; which was carried without a
dissenting voice. It was also voted that the Twelve act as a
committee to superintend the laying out of the city, etc., the
plan of which I will give in another place. President Young
expressed his feelings warmly to the brethren on different sub-
jects. He was filled with the Spirit of God and spoke with
power, which caused the brethren to rejoice.
Thursday, July 29th. The morning was warm with a strong
wind blowing from the southeast. Last night C. Murray and
myself slept in the tent, and the wind became so violent we
were under the necessity of striking our tent (lowering it). This
forenoon we moved our other three wagons up to where we are
encamped. The Twelve and some others, rode out this morning
to meet the detachment commanded bv Captain Brown. Brothers
Whipple, King and myself engaged in sowing seeds in a garden
spot about three miles southeast of the camp. This afternoon
we had a heavy shower, which wet the soil to the depth of about
112 P I ON BERING THE WEST
three inches. Soon after the shower was over Captain Brown's
company came in sight.
I understand that ther is fourteen government wagons, and
twenty wagons that belong to the Mississippi company, who
wintered at Pueblo. Brother Kimball informed me that the
slight rain we had raised the water in the canyon so high that
some of the wagons could not cross for some time. The Bat-
talion detachment has encamped on the other side of the creek
between the two camps. Brothers Gushing and Billings are en-
gaged in plowing, Brother Philo Johnson is also engaged in
farming. The other boys are engaged at their usual occupations.
After supper Brother Kimball asked me to come into his wagon,
and read the minutes of last Sunday's meeting, after which
Brothers Kimball, Whipple and myself took a walk. We had
a very pleasant evening's conversation, then joined in prayer
arid returned to camp about 11 p. m. The evening was pleasant.
Friday, July 30th. -The brethren were engaged as usual
plowing and planting. Brothers Whipple, King, Redding and
myself went up to the garden and sowed some more seeds. We
have put in a few of almost all kinds of seeds. This afternoon
the Twelve and officers of the Battalion, with some others rode
out as far as the Hot Springs. They had been in council about
three hours. There is an appointment given out for a meeting
this evening at 7 o'clock at the upper camp. Brother H. K.
Whitney moved his wagons up to our camp this evening. I have
tried on a pair of buckskin pants made by Brother Baird, which
are the neatest and the best fit I ever had. All the brethren,
including those who belong to the Battalion, met according to
previous appointment, near our camp. The brethren were ad-
dressed by President Young in his usual interesting and in-
structive manner. The meetng was opened by a Honsannah to
God, three times.
He addressed the brethren of the Battalion very warm and
affectionately. He said the council had proffered their assist-
ance to the government to go to California, but they were always
silent on the subject, until they heard we were driven from our
homes and scattered on the prairie. Then they made a demand
for five hundred men, that they might have women and children
to suffer, and, if we had not complied with the requisition, they
would have treated us as enemies, and the next move would
have been to have let Missouri and the adjoining states loose on
us, and wipe us from the face of the earth. This is what they
had in comtemplation, and your going into the armv has saved
the lives of thousands of people, etc. President Young* requested
PIONEERING THE WES.T 113
the brethren of the Battalion to turn out tomorrow and build a
bowery to hold our meetings in.
Saturday, July 31st. The weather was pleasant, and the
brethren were engaged at their usual occupations. Brothers
King, Whipple and myself were sowing turnips, buckwheat, oats,
etc. The brethren of the Battalion are engaged in building the
bowery, at the spot where the brethren first commenced plowing.
Brother Markham thinks there is about fifty acres plowed, and
the most of it is planted. At the garden spot there is about ten
acres plowed and nearly all sowed. We have sowed for Brother
Kimball 's family three acres of buckwheat, one acre of corn, one
acre of oats, half an acre of turnips, one-fourth acre of different
kinds of seeds, and one bushel of potatoes.
Brothers G. Billings and Pack rode about six miles back on
the road that we came on, and cut forty-one logs for building.
There is some thirty or forty Indians at our camp today. There
was a misunderstanding between two of them about a horse that
was traded to one of the brethren for a gun, when one of them
struck the other on the head with his gun. One of the old
Indians, who is supposed to be a chief, horsewhipped both of
them. A short time after, the one that got struck with the gun,
took one of their horses and started off. They saw him and
six of them rode after him. After they had been gone a few
hours they returned and made signs that they had killed him.
They said they had shot both him and his horse.
Brother King and myself spent the evening with the breth-
ren of the Battalion. I learned that President Young gave some
general instruction to the Battalion pertaining to trading with
the Indians, and their future course, etc.
114 PIONEERING THE WEST
10. WORK AT SALT LAKE, START BACK AUGUST, 1847.
Sunday, August 1st. The morning was pleasant, with a
strong breeze blowing from the northwest. A meeting was held
in the Bowery, commencing at 10 a. m., and another this after-
noon, commencing at 2 p. m. ' I was absent, but learned after
that the revelation given early last spring in Winter Quarters,
was read by Dr. Richards, and a vote taken that they would
abide by the principles contained therein. The idea was sug-
gested and finally adopted that we employ the Spanish mode of
building houses with adobies, clay or durt moulded and dried
in the sun.
Monday, August 2nd. It was fine weather with a cool
breeze from the northeast. This morning William King, George
Billings and myself went into the mountains with teams for
timber, with which we returned about sunset. Agreeable to
previous arrangements, the two camps below commenced to move
to this place. Prof. 0. Pratt, Father Sherwood and others com-
menced surveying the ground for the city. Eight or nine men
were today detailed or chosen to guard our cattle during our
stay here, who are exempt from all other labors. The brethren
are principally engaged in plowing, planting, sawing lumber for
a boat, making coal pits, preparing to. make adobies, etc.
Brother E. T. Benson, 0. P. Rockwell and three others
started on horseback, about noon to go back and meet the next
company, expected soon from Winter Quarters. Brother Clayton
wrote a letter for Brother Kimball to James Smithies, the sub-
stance of which was, that he wished him to forward by the
bearer (Brother Benson) the general news in Winter Quarters,
particularly as regards his (Heber's) family, and also all letters
that have been written by our friends from that place. The
wagons of the three camps, including the soldiers, were all
formed into a compact circle, a short distance from this spot.
Tuesday, August 3rd. It was warm and pleasant as usual,
but the last night was the coolest one we have experienced for
a long time. The brethren are engaged in their usual occupa-
tions. Considrable of the corn and beans planted has already
made' its appearance above the ground, and is in a flourshing
condition. J. Redding and myself went this morning with a team
eight miles up the pass, within one mile of the last camping
PIONEERING THE WEST 115
place, where we cut down and brought to camp, two cedars, for
the purpose of making: bedsteads, pails, etc. We arrived at
home about 9 p. m. We had quite a hard time of it, the road
being almost impassable on account of the bridges having
floated off.
President Young stated today, his intention of having the
ox teams start back on Monday next, and the horse teams two
weeks from that time. L. B. Myers returned from the Eutaw
(Utah) Lake yesterday. He reports it to be about thirty miles
south of this place, and that on the east side of it is plenty of
timber, which might be easily floated down the river to this
place, the outlet of the lake being a river passing near here.
A number of huntsmen have gone back, within a day or two,
some forty miles in pursuit of game.
Wednesday, August 4th. The weather is pleasant with &
slight breeze from the south. J. Redding, G. Billings, H. Gushing
and myself, with three teams, went six miles to get timber. We
returned this evening soon after dark with three loads of good
logs (balsam), got for the purpose of building a store house.
Brother William Clayton, with the assistance of William King
and Orson (Whitney) was engaged today in making a new
Roadometer, as he intends to start back with the ox teams on
Monday next.
Brother Brannon, J. G. Little, Lieutenant Willis and one
or two others started this morning on an excursion to the south,
intending to go to the Eutaw (Utah) Lake. I learned that a
case was brought before the Twelve for trial today. It re-
ferred to one of the soldier brethren, William Tubbs, who was
accused of improper conduct with two females, who accompanied
the Battalion. I did not learn particulars, but understood that
the accused acknowledged that he had done wrong and was
sorry for it; when the case was dismissed, and he was told to
"go and sin no more."
Thursday, August 5th. Tt was warm as usual. This morn-
ing G. Billinirs, J. Redding, H. Cushinsr, Andrew Gibbons, Philo
Johnson and mvself aerain went into the woods after logs with
three teams. We returned toward nisrht. This evening Samuel
Brannon, J. G. Little, and Lieutenant Willis returned from their
excursion to the Eutaw Lake, of which and the adjacent country,
thev gave a similar account, to that of Lewis B. Myers. During
their travel, about ten miles from here, they saw lying bv the
side of the trail, the dead bodies of two Indians, supposed to
have been killed in the affray mentioned to have occurred on the
31st ult. They also discovered the dead bodv of a horse with its
throat cut, some six miles from here. This probably belonged
116 PIONEERING THE WEST
to one of the Indians, and had been first shot, while they were
endeavoring to make their escape. A number of Indians came
into camp this evening and stopped for the night.
Friday, August 6th. It was warm and sultry. The brethren
were engaged in their usual avocations. This morning consid-
erable alarm was created in the camp by the report that the
Indians had left during the night and taken with them all our
loose horses. This, however, proved groundless, as upon thorough
search the horses, supposed to be missing, were found. They
were not easily seen from here on account of the high grass on
the bottoms. The preliminary arrangements, having been com-
pleted, the brethren this morning commenced making adobies on
the bottoms a mile below here, and during this forenoon,
moulded and laid out 750 of them. H. Gushing, G. Billings,
Andrew Gibbons and myself with four teams went after more
logs for building. We got mostly balsam fir tree logs, and we
returned toward evening.
Saturday, August 7th. The hounds to G. Billings wagon
having been broken, were repaired this morning. J. Redding,
John Tibbits, G. Billings, Andrew Gibbons and myself, with
three teams, again went into the woods. We returned about
noon with a quantity of poles, of which we made a horse yard
this afternoon on Brother Kimball's lot, which is situated on
the other side of the creek, a few rods hence. Hosea Gushing
made a hay rake today. William King is still engaged in con-
structing a roadometer for Brother Clayton. Horace and Orson
(Whitney) took their teams and went up the pass, near here,
about half a mile and got a load of bushes, with which to cover
the blacksmith shop, the first house built with logs, which stands
a short distance from here.
Today a number of brethren made a darn, a few rods above
the wagons, on the small stream, which runs along the north
side of the camp. After this two dikes were made communicating
with the dam, the water of which will irrigate the whole camp
ground, and laying the dust renders everything more cool and
pleasant. This evening Brother Kimball invited all the members
of his family to the dam, above here, where he administered to
them the ordinance of baptism. A number of the other brethren,
making, I believe, fifty-four in all, were baptized this evening
by himself and others of the quorum of the Twelve.
Sunday, August 8th. The morning was cloudy with con-
siderable of rain. The ceremony of baptism was recommenced,
and all who felt disposed were invited to come forward and
receive the ordinance, which they did in great numbers, both
men and women. A number of Indians again made their ap-
PIONEERING THE WEST
117
pearance in the camp this morning. They came for the purpose
of reclaiming a horse, one of them had sold to Brother J. Han-
cock for a i:im, which the Indian had some way broken by acci-
dent and still wished to keep it. By the president's advise,
Brother Plancock refused to give up the horse, for, if we yielded
to their claim in this instance, we might make up our minds to
submit in future to every other demand they might make, of a
like nature.
Fimt House Built in Salt Lake City.
A meeting was held in the Bowery, commencing at 10 a. in.
Brother Kimhall first addressed the congregation, exhorting
them to abide by their covenants, and to the observance of
various duties devolving upon them as saints of God. He was
followed by Elder Woodruff, who gave them a -.:<>< <i <K al of good
instruction and advice of a like nature, and the meeting was
dismissed at noon, being adjourned until 2 p. m. A council of
the Twelve was IK Id in a tent near here, at which an " Epistle
of the Twelve'' to the Battalion and the saints in California
wa> read. This is to be transmitted bv Elder Samuel Brannon,
who starts on his return tomorrow.
118 PIONEERING THE WEST'
Meeting- held pursuant to adjournment at 2 p. m. There
were present of the quorum of the Twelve: President Young-,
H. C.'Kimball, Willard Richards, W. Woodruff and 0. Pratt.
Sacrament was administererd, during which time Brother
Lorenzo Young made some remarks, after which Brother Kimball
arose and said: "There is some business to bring- before the
brethren. First In regard to building the stockade of adobies ;
and now the idea is to call out a company of men to be under a
leader, who shall attend to that business. Sixty to hoke, twelve
to mould and twenty to put up walls. I think it best to beat
up for volunteers." The names of seventy-six were taken
as volunteers.
President Young said: "We now propose to put up some
log houses, and plaster them up outside, perhaps build one side
with logs." Brother Kimball moved that we put the log houses
on the line seconded and carried. Brother Robert Crow moved
that we have four gates, one on each side seconded and carried.
President Young said: "We want five or six men to assist
Father Sherwood in surveying the city. Every man shall be
credited what he does on the adobie houses, and then when others
come in, they shall pay the price for it. We expect every man
will have his lot and farm and will attend to it himself. A few
men came with Thomas Williams when he came to Fort Briclger,
when they came they borrowed flour of the Pioneer company,
most of them refuse to pay what was borrowed for them. They
ought to return the compliment."
Thomas Williams said: "There are only two or three who
have paid their portion. Those were the persons who returned
to the Battalion." Captain Brown said: "Thomas Williams
suggested the propriety of going- ahead to overtake the Pioneers
and get back a couple of stolen mules. Tf Williams had asked
for volunteers he could have had half the Battalion."
President Young said: "You came and would not have
eaten more if you had staid. Is there a man that would not have
borrowed on the strength of his rations. Brother Rockwood let
them have twenty pounds of flour, that we don't want, but the
twelfth ten have not ten pounds of flour among them, and that
ought to be paid.'-' He then related the "Sim" Goodel affair,
and said "I anticipate the time will come when I shall enjoy
good health in this valley, and be able to speak to the brethren.
I deprive myself of preaching to the brethren in order to keep
on this side of the vail. If the wind had not blowed so hard,
I should have spoken upon the sealing principle. I perceive that
I fail, that my bodily strength is decreasing. If I had spoken it
would have hurt me. There are many things I want to say be-
PIONEERING THE WEST 119
fore I go. I feel thankful that I am here, words and actions
cannot exhibit what is in me. The hand of the Lord is stretched
out. He will surely vex the nations that has driven us out.
They have rejected the whole council of God. The nation will
be sifted and the most come out chaff, and they will go to the
firey furnace. They will go to hell. This is ^the spot I had
anticipated. We will not have a hard winter here. The high-
est mountains are near one and one-quarter miles high. We
shall find that sugar cane and sweet potatoes will grow here.
The brethren from Pueblo advise us all to build adoHjie houses.
There never was a better or richer soil than this. Last fall we
found there were lots of persons who had not two weeks pro-
visions with them. If we had come on then, we should have
led a people to the mountains to suffer. We told the pioneers
to bring at least one hundred pounds of bread-stuff. If men
have not bread, let them go where it is. There are some that
would lie down and die before they would complain, and again
others who would take the blood of man for it. The first com-
pany were charged to bring a sufficient quantity to last them
through the present season. I calculate we shall bring as much
as will last us until we can raise food. We want all the breth-
ren who are goins: back, to go to the Salt Lake and have a
swim. The water is almost equal to vinegar to make your eyes
and nose smart." After a benediction by the president, the
meeting was dismissed at 5 :20 p. m.
Monday, August 9th. It is fine weather this morning and
Andrew Gibbons, George Billings, Horace Gushing, William
King, Horace Whitney and myself, with four teams, went up the
pass about six miles from here, where we got four loads of
poles and took them to the yard, about a mile below here, where
the brethren are engaged in making adobies with which to
bnild the stockade or fort, which is to enclose ten acres.
Captain Brown, Samuel Brannon, William H. Squires and some
others started this morning on pack horses for California.
Brother J. C. Little and some others went with them, intending
to accompany them as far as Fort Hall, and a few only as far
as Besir River.
Tuesday, August 10th. It was a pleasant morning. Horace
and myself with two teams went to the place where we got
poles yesterday, and cut three loads of logs, which he, myself
and Ozro Eastman with a third team, took to the adobie yard,
where we arrived at 5 p. m. and found Brother Kimball, J.
Redding, A. Gibbons and G. Billings engaged in laying the
basement of a row of log buildings on the east side, which side
of the stockade is immediately on the line, and I understand
120 PIONEERING T H E WEST
is to be entirely built of logs. President Young 7 s row of
building's joins Brother Kimball ? s.
I omitted to mention that last evening Brother Kimball
invited Horace (Whitney), Brothers Whipple, William Clayton,
William King, H. Gushing and myself to a walk over the
creek, a short distance hence, to view the building lot he had
selected. It is situated on a small elevated bench of ground,
which commands a beautiful and extensive view of the valley
to the north and south. Brother Kimball informed us that it
was his intention to select two lots for Brother Whitney to the
west and adjoining his own, and next to him Brother Clayton,
if he chooses, could have a lot. He said that most of the
Twelve had selected lots in the vicinity of the temple lot, which
consists of forty acres (*changed after to twenty acres). After
spending some time in conversation on different subjects,
chiefly relating, however, to the prospect of our return to
Winter Quarters, he proposed that we should pray. According-
ly he made a beautiful prayer, returning thanks to the Lord
for the preservation of ourselves, horses and cattle, and for
conducting us to a goodly land, possessed of a rich and fertile
soil, even ' ' a land of promise. ' ' He also prayed for our fam-
ilies in Winter Quarters, that they might have no sickness
among them, and finally for the saints throughout the world.
After he. had closed we returned to camp. This afternoon
the weather has been quite cloudy, and toward evening we had
quite a gale of wind that prostrated quite a few of the soldiers'
tents, but the wind did not last long.
Wednesday, August llth. It was a fine day. and Orson
(WhitnejO and myself went into the woods after logs. We
returned just after sun down with two loads. The rest of the
boys were engaged in laying up log's at the adobie yard. That
part of the wall to be constructed of adobies was commenced
today. A large band of Indians made their appearance in camp
this morning on horseback. Not being permitted to come
within the circle, after staying some time, they went down on
the bottoms and encamped, about three miles below here. Four
wagons (ox teams) started for Winter Quarters this morning,
under the command of Captain Jacobs. These, I suppose, will
remain on the Sweet Water and hunt buffalos till we come up.
This afternoon we were much surprised and grieved by the
unusual occurence among us of an afflicting' and domestic
calamity. The following is a brief relation of the affair :
Brother Brown Crow while getting a pail of water out of the
small stream, which flows bv on the south side of the camp,
discovered the dead body of his nephew, Milton Thirlkill, (a
PIONEERING THE WEST 121
lad of about 3 years of age) lying in the deepest part of the
water near the clam. The body was immediately taken out, and,
notwithstanding every remedy usual in such cases, was resorted
to for its resuscitation for an hour or more, but they were at
length obliged to give up the ease as hopeless. The child had
been seen playing with a young brother a short time previous,
by the side of the stream; hence, they inferred that he must
have been in the water some ten minutes.
The grief of both of the parents was great, but that of the
agonized mother baffles all description. She laughed, wept,
walked to and fro, alternately, refusing all attempts at con-
solation from her friends, being, apparently unable to become
resigned to her domestic and melancholy bereavement.
Thursday, August 12th. This was a very warm day, and
we did not go after logs. The most of the boys, as usual, were
engaged in laying up logs at the adobie yard. The funeral, or
burial of the* child of George W. and Matilda Jane Thirlkill,
took place about 2 p. m. Brother H. K. Whitney gave me the
following account of the ceremony:
"Myself with some others, accompanied as assistance,
went to the place of burial, which is on Brother Crow ? s lot,
about two miles below here, nearly opposite the adobie yard.
As soon as we reached the grave, we all knelt and a beautiful
and affecting prayer was made by Elder 0. Pratt in behalf of
the bereaved parents and friends; after which, by request of
Brother Crow, he made a few remarks by way of exhortation
and instruction to us all, and concluded by a brief consoling
address t<> the parents and friends of the deceased. About 3
p. m. we returned to the camp."
Two loads of salt arrived from the Salt Lake about 3
o'clock. It is the best kind I have ever seen, being as white as
snow, though somewhat coarse. The brethren who brought it '
in. remained on the shore of the lake for a day or two boiling
down the salt together with water, in order to separate it
from the particles of dirt with which it abounded. A number
of brethren started today on horseback for Winter Quarters.
Most of them were soldier brethren.
Friday, August 13th. It was warm and sultry as usual.
Brother John Tibbits and myself started for the woods about
noon to procure timber for sawing. Just as we arrived at the
mouth of the pass, we met Horace and Orson with their teams
going to the adobie yard with a load of logs.
Brother Kimball's row of buildings, consisting of five
rooms, is already built up five logs high. Adjoining to the end
of those, T)r. Richards and others of the Twelve, are building
122 PIONEERING THE WEST
houses. There were two additional loads of salt brought in by
the brethren this afternoon from the lake.
Saturday, August 14th. This is a pleasant day. As it is
the intention to start the ox teams on Monday next, all who
are then going back, started this morning on an excursion to
the Salt Lake. Some others were also permitted to go, among
whom were Orson Whitney and Brother Clayton with his wagon.
When they returned this evening Brother Clayton reported the
distance to be twenty-two miles. The shaft or screw of the
roadometer was broken on his return. Brother J. C. Little,
Joseph Mathews, John Brown, Lieutenant Willis and John
Buchanon, who accompanied Captain Brown and -others as far
as Bear River on their way to California on Monday last, re-
turned today. They had been as far as Cache valley on an
exploring expedition, of which place they give a favorable
account, although, they say, there is no more timber there than
here, and that like this, being up the ravines in the mountains.
Lewis B. Myers also returned today from the same country.
Both parties report the game to be very scarce, neither having
killed any. Some of them visited the settlement made by a man
by the name of Miles, before referred to, and report the Amer-
ican corn to be as high as ones shoulders, and the Spanish corn
tassel ing out.
G. Billings. H. Gushing and myself again went into the
woods for logs today. While on the road we met with quite
an accident. H. Gushing 's team, being ahead stopped suddenly,
when one of the oxen of G. Billing's attached to the wagon im-
mediately behind, ran with full force against the reach of the
former wagon, which projected out considerably behind. The
reach penetrated the breast of the ox nearly six inches, inflicting
a wound large enough to admit a man's clenched hand, but,
notwithstanding, having bound it up, we think he will get well.
The fortification, or stockade has progressed bravely during
the past week from the united diligence and industry of the
brethren, and we indulge hopes to be ready to start back soon
after Brother Benson returns.
Sunday, August 15th. It was beautiful weather as usual,
and a meeting was held at the Bowery, commencing at 10 a. m.
President Young addressed the congregation on the sealing
principles, or more particularly, on the law of adoption. He
told them: It did not detract from a man's glory to be sealed
to another, but added to it, for he still held that of his own
and adopted parents at the same time. Meeting was adjourned
at 12 noon, to meet again at 2 p. m.
PIONEERING THE WEST 123
Meeting- met pursuant to adjournment and the congregation
was addressed by Elder H. C. Kimball and 0. Pratt on various
subjects. The meeting was dismissed at 6 p. m., with the re-
quest by President Young that all those who intend to start
back tomorrow should meet at his tent this evening at the sound
of the bugle, which was accordingly done, and all the soldiers
going brought their guns, ammunition, etc., and surrendered
them into the president's hands, for the reception and safe
keeping of which there will be a house built hereafter. I do
not know the number going, but of those about Brother Kimball
are the following: William Clayton, J. Redding, Robert Biard
and Thomas Cloward. It rained considerably soon after we
returned for the night, accompanied with a little wind.
Monday, August 16th. It was somewhat cloudy and rained
at intervals throughout the day. I was engaged in hunting up
cattle this forenoon. Brother Biard and Cloward got started
today, each having a wagon with two yokes of oxen attached,
one yoke of which Brother Kimball got of Brother Huntington.
William King repaired the roadometer this afternoon, and
Wliliam Clayton, J. Redding and myself rode in the former's
wagon as far as the Warm Springs, one and one-half miles dis-
tant. This we done to see how the machinery would work.
Quite a number of wagons started today besides the two above
mentioned. Brothers Whipple and Allen w y ent up the hollow
where we have been accustomed to get logs (Emmigration can-
yon), and procured a large piece of sandstone, out of which
this afternoon Brother Allen is fashioning a grindstone. There
was quite a wind and storm soon after we retired for the night.
Tuesday, August 17th. The sky was somewhat cloudy this
morning. Brother Clayton started with his wagon from here
today. He is accompanied by'J. Redding and E. Lamb.
Brother Kimball, Dr. Richards, Colonel Rockw 7 ood, Thomas
Bullock, Stephen H. Goddard and myself went up the Pass,
about ten miles from here, where the brethren were encamped.
They were soon called together, when Brother Kimball gave
them some instructions for their observance and guidance on
their journey. This company is intrusted to the commands of
Captain Roundy and Tunis Rappleyee. The list of men and
teams composing same is as follows : Fifty-nine men, thirty-two
wagons, fourteen mules, sixteen horses, and ninety-two yokes
of oxen. Brother Kimball and the rest of us returned toward
night.
This evening he called most of his boys together at
Brother Wilkie's tent, where each chose his respective lot and
Horace wrote their names on the blanks, representing the lots
124 PIONEERING THE WEST
on the city plat or map. Brother William Clayton having left,
Horace is hereafter to keep Brother Kimball's journal. The
brethren are as usual engaged today at work on the adobie wall,
which, when completed will be nine feet high and twenty-seven
inches thick. Professor Pratt has taken observations and found
the latitude of this place to be 40 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds.
The altitude above the level of the sea is 4309 feet, and above
the Eutaw outlet (*head of Jordan) sixty-five feet. This even-
ing after we returned, we again had quite a heavy wind from
the southwest, accompanied by some rain, and, mingled with
the latter last night, it is said, there was considerable snow.
This heralds the approach of cold weather, and in the opinion
of all, we ought not to remain here much longer.
Wednesday, August 18th. There was fair weather this
forenoon, though somewhat showery this afternoon. Nothing
of importance occured today, except the usual work going on
at the adobie yard, at which place I, for the first time, worked
on the buildings, together with the rest of the boys. President
Young has announced his intention that we shall start back on
Tuesday next, and had his horses shod yesterday in preparation
for that event. This afternoon Hosea and myself went to work
at odd jobs about the wagons, unloading them, etc.
Thursday, August 19th. It was a warm and pleasant day.
Hosea and myself were engaged part of the day in drawing
gravel with which to cover the houses. The remainder of the
boys were also at work finishing them off. We had our horses
and mules shod today, preparatory to our starting on Tuesday
next. A party of Mountaineers (consisting of four white men
and two squaws) arrived in the valley this afternoon from Fort
Bridg'er. Their ostensible reason, for coming here was "to see
how we get along, ' ' as they expressed themselves ; but undoubt-
edly the real object of their visit was to trade with the Indians.
They were encamped this evening about a mile below here on
the bottoms.
This afternoon Horace copied the names of those who had
selected lots, as also the number of lots and block, opposite each
one's name. Hans is engaged in making me a coat of buckskins.
Friday, August 20th. It was pleasant weather, and Hosea
Cushing and myself were engaged in hauling some loose logs
that lay near here down to the adobie yard. Horace took a
bar of iron to the blacksmith shop, had it cut in two, and
carried it to the stockade to be used in constructing a chimney
in one of Brother Kimball's rooms, which is being built by
Brother S. Goddard. Brother Dockman is engaged in making
a door. They have the covering laid over the top of one of
PIONEERING THE WEST 125
the rooms, and the remainder are nearly ready for covering.
Brother J. Mathews is engaged in sawing lumber at the saw-pit
near by, with which to make the floors.
The laying out of the city is now completed. It is composed
of 135 blocks, each containing, ten acres, which is subdivided into
eight lots, each containing one and one-fourth acres. The streets
are eight rods wide. There are three public squares (including
the adobie yard) in different parts of the city. The Temple
block, like the rest contains ten acres. Father Sherwood re-
turned from an exploring expedition to Cache valley this evening,
whither he went day before yesterday, for the purpose of trading
with the Indians. With him came a man by the name of Wells,
who has lived some years in New Mexico among the Spaniards.
I understand the brethren have given him the privilege of
choosing a city lot, if he wishes to dwell here.
Brother A. Carrington, John Brown and one or two others
started this evening on an exploring expedition to visit the high
mountains called the Twin Peaks, lying some distance to the
southeast of this place. It is their intention to proceed to the
base of the mountain and there encamp for the night, and on
the morrow ascend the same in search of coal, etc.
Saturday, August 21st. It was fair weather as usual.
President Young and Kimball moved their wagons and effects
down to the stockade today. Hosea Gushing, E. Whipple and
myself assisted in the same . Nearly all of Brother Kimball 's
rooms are now covered, and the floor of the one appropriated
for Ellen Saunder's use is nearly laid. The most of the after-
noon was employed by Brother Kimball, H. Gushing and myself
in packing, unpacking, repacking and storing away the things
in the house. The remainder of the boys as usual were engaged
in working on the houses. Horace took his wagon to the black-
smith shop, where, by my intervention Brother Burr Frost re-
paired the skein to the axle tree, and also some of the hounds
that had been broken, for which Horace gave him two-thirds
of a pail of corn.
Sunday, August 22nd. It was a pleasant day, though
thunder could be heard in the distance this afternoon, and it
probably rained considerably in the mountains. A meeting was
held at^the Bowery, commencing at 10 a. m. The congregation
was addressed by Elder A. Lyman upon the subject of our
present situation as a people, the blessing we had received at
the hands of the Lord, our further prospects, etc.
A few remarks were made by President Young, stating the
necessity of our holding a conference in order to transact some
church business, which it was important should be brought before
126 PIONEERING THE WEST
the people before we leave this place on our return to Winter
Quarters. The meeting was then adjourned till 2 p. m. In the
interim a council of the Twelve was held under the tree on
Brother Kimball's lot.
Pursuant to adjournment, conference met at 2 p. m. The
following is the minutes of said conference, as reported by the
clerk, Thomas Bullock : Sunday, August 22, 1847, 2 o'clock p. m.
A special conference of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day
Saints, held in the Bowery on the Temple block in the Great
Salt Lake City. Present : President Young, H. C. Kimball, W.
Woodruff, A. Lyman, W. Richards and 0. Pratt, also Thomas
Bullock and J. C. Little, clerks of said conference.
President Young called the meeting to order and the choir
sang "The Spirit of God Like a Fire Is Burning. " Prayer
by W. Woodruff. The choir sang "From All That Dwell Below
the Skies." Elder Kimball called for the business to be trans-
acted before the conference and requested the brethren to be
free and open, that it may be well for those that remain and
those who are to come .here. It is necessary to transact a few
items of business; to have a presidency to preside over this
place, and to appoint such officers as are necessary to watch
over and council them for their well being. Also the stockade;
shall we continue our labors, and concentrate all our efforts in
the building of that, or scatter, and every man work for himself?
Shall we cultivate the earth in the vicinity of the city, or go
three or four miles and make ^arrns and fence them so that our
crops can be secure? Shall <ve scatter our labors? One man
build his house, another fence his lot, another go hunting, etc.,
etc. These are matters for your consideration.
If the brethren have any interest we want an expression of
it ; if they have not, be silent, and we will transact the business.
H. G. Sherwood said: "It meets my feelings to cultivate the
city and fence it in with an adobie wall, and a high one will
make a guard against the Indians and keep our cattle out. I
am in favor of fencing in the city and cultivating it. ' '
X. Higgins said: "The Indians supposed the land to be
all theirs, and are in the habit of taking a share of the grain
for the use of the land."
President Young moved that the brethren fence in the city
and such portions as they had a mind to in sections and cul-
tivate it. It was seconded by Dimick B. Huntington. H. C.
Kimball said: "We have talked considerable about it, and the
most prudent and economical way of doing it. It is best to
farm in that portion which is tillable and that which is the most
convenient for us. Suppose we divide it into three sections.
PIONEERING THE WEST 127
Put the fence upon the line of the city just where we want it;
and that which is not wet enough can be irrigated, and can raise
100 to 1000 bushels for ourselves and those who come after us,
and they shall pay you a good round price for it. I would rather
fence a block of ten acres and have the crop, than plant 100
acres for the cattle to destroy. Will you put your " mites"
together for that which is the best for every mail, woman and
child? Will you do it? (Cries of "Yes") I say put our fence
together and fence the city, and sow our wheat safely." The
motion was carried unanimously.
President Young said: "I move that there be a president
to preside over this place." Seconded and carried. "That
there be a High Council." Seconded and carried. "That all
other officers that are necessary be appointed for this place."
Seconded and carried. "That we call this place the Great Salt
Lake City of the Great Basin, North America. That we call
the postoffice the Great Basin Postoffice." Seconded and
carried. H. C. Kimball said: "I move that we call the river
the ' Western Jordan.' ' Seconded and carried.
President Young said: "It is the right of the Twelve to
nominate the officers, and the people to receive them. We wish to
know who is coming in the next company. If Uncle John Smith
comes it is our minds that he preside. Colonel Rockwood is my
principal man, attends to all my duties." H. C. Kimball said:
"I move that Colonel Rockwood be honorably released from
his duties as overseer of the Stockade." Seconded and car-
ried. "I also move that Tarleton Lewis be appointed to that
office." Seconded and carried. President Young said: "There
will be thousands of instances of men being discharged and
who are never shown on record as being appointed. It is the
business of all clerks to write the business that is transacted,
and not to ask questions. Colonel Rockwood is my aide-de-
camp. I was acknowledged as their General and their dictator.
If I appoint him to do a thing and don't tell the clerk,
the clerk is not to blame, and when he is discharged it can be
recorded.
"The brethren are not requested to labor for nought. You
don't know what dangers you are in. I am full of caution. I
wish this people may grow and increase and become a great
nation. It ought to suffice the elders of Israel to go and do
as they are told. Is it not necessary that the yard should be
secured, that the Indians cannot get in? About forty persons
are going to live in those houses; that would only be one-fourth
of the whole, and have three sides exposed, but common sense
teaches us to build it all around. Men laboring here will be
128 PIONEERING THE WEST
glad to buy a cow, some sheep, clothing, and other things. Some
wealthy men are coming and will want rooms. The men who
build them are entitled to their pay.
" Don't be so devilish hoggish as to be afraid to do a day's
work without getting pay for it. And I can prophecy in the
name of Jesus Christ, a man having such a spirit will be
damned; and I say further, that such a man shall not live here.
Get up your walls four and one-half feet high and that will
keep the cattle out. "Who is there sick in this camp through
living in your wagons'? Now, if you go and leave those walls
and build up your own house, and I venture to prophecy that
you or some of your family will be sick and you will have
to watch over them. I had rather they sleep in the Bowery
than in a close house. We propose to fence in thirty rods
square that, in case of necessity, the cattle can be placed in,
and in the inside stack your hay. In the spring remove your
fence. Plow a trench about twenty feet from the houses and
the women can raise a multitude of garden sauce.
I want to engage 50,000 bushels of wheat and other grain
in proportion, and I will pay you 50 cents per bushel for corn,
$1.25 for wheat and 25 cents for oats. Why not? I bring
glass for you and you raise grain for me. Raise all you can.
You can buy sheep, teams, or a cow or two. We want you
to live in that Stockade until we come back again, and raise
grain next year. If you only fence in forty acres, make it so
an Indian cannot see in, and then they won't be tempted."
Elder 0. Pratt said: "It would be impossible to fence in
this city with a fence so an Indian cannot see in it. It will
take 2300 rods to fence in the whole city, and it would take a
good many months." H. C. Kimball said: "There are some
creeks that have no names." President Young said: "I move
that this creek be called the City Creek." Carried. "That
the large creek about eight miles south be called Mill Creek."
Seconded and carried. "That the little creek, a little south,
be called Red Bute Creek. "Seconded and carried. "That the
next be called Canyon Creek." Carried. "That the next be
called Big Canyon Creek." Seconded and carried.
"Now I want to know if the people are satisfied with the
labors of the Twelve?"
T. Lewis said: "I move that we give them our approba-
tion, that we are satisfied with their labors, and give them
our blessing." Seconded and carried.
Lorenzo Young reminded those brethren who did not pray,
that it was a good time for them to begin and fulfill their
PIONEERING THE WEST 129
covenants that they have now made. When we covenant to
do a thing, be careful and always do it.
President Young said: "I want to know who are going
back to winter quarters? Those who are going to stay, will
you finish that adobe wall? If so, stand up. (A number
arose.) I should have no hesitation in taking five men and
build a mile of adobe wall eight feet high this fall. Keep it
in mind: 50 cents for corn, $1.25 for wheat, and other grain
in proportion. "
H. C. Kimball said: "My feelings are for the welfare
and wellbeing of all this people. I am your brother and you
are my brethren, all being born from the same parents; and I
am now approximating back again to those feelings, in them
again being restored to their parents. You should throw away
selfishness for it is of hell, and I say in the name of Jesus
away with it to hell. (Cries of Amen.) A man possessed of
such feelings stinks worse than a skunk. I want to cultivate
a feeling of union, of peace, toward my brethren, and, if they
knock me over, I'll try to forget it.
The Holy Ghost will rest upon you and I shall see the day
when the heavens will be opened and we will render up our
stewardships to our Heavenly Father. Brother Brigham is go-
ing to be greater than he was. He will be greater in strength,
in beauty and in glory. A man don't know how to appreciate
a thing until it is taken away. A man don't appreciate a wife
until she is away, nor a wife appreciate a husband until he is
gone. Call upon God and we shall increase here. Away with
the spirit of alienation and let us be united. I believe I shall
receive power to thrust everything beneath my feet and rise
in glory. I wish to God we did not have to return. If I had
my family here, I would give anything I have. This is a
paradise to me. It is one of the most comely places I ever
beheld. I hope none of us will be left to polute this land. I
had rather depart than do as a great many do."
President Young said: "I move that Brother Maclntyre
be clerk and keep an account of public labors." Carried. "In
regard to our starting get ready as fast as possible, and on
Tuesday night we will start out and see if we are ready to go.
I move that we adjourn this conference to October 6, 1848. at
10 o'clock a. m., at this place." Carried. "I also move that
Edson Whipple attend to the distribution of water over the
plowed land." Seconded and carried. Elder 0. Pratt dis-
missed the conference by benediction.
After the meeting the rest of the boys and myself assisted
130 PIONEERING THE WEST
Horace in taking his wagon by hand from the blacksmith shop
down to the Stockade.
The Twelve held another council this evening in front of
the buildings. Brothers Carrington, Brown and others returned
during- the session of conference from the exploring expedition
to the mountains, on ascending which they had found no coal,
but plenty of black slate.
Monday, August 23rd. It was somewhat cloudy with a
little rain. George Billings and A. Gibbons went after poles
with which to cover the buildings. The rest of the boys and
myself were at work on the houses, getting the wagons ready
for the journey, etc. Ellen Saunders has moved into her room,
and the other rooms will soon be finished. Thomas Williams
and others returned from Fort Hall today. The former was
the bearer of a letter from Captain Brown to Brother Kim-
ball, merely stating his health, prospects, etc. Brother Kim-
ball has recently got a good wagon of Brother Shelton. This
he loaned him for the purpose of assisting in bringing up the
families.
Tuesday, August 24th. It was fair weather until about
noon when it suddenly became cloudy and we had quite a
heavy shower. The boys this forenoon were usually busy at
work on the houses. About 2 p. m., it having cleared off,
Horace and myself, with his wagon, and Hosea Gushing, G.
Billings and Carlos Murray, with one of Brother Kimball 's
wagons, started on an excursion to the Salt Lake. - It is un-
necessary to relate particulars connected with our visit, or
give any farther description of the lake, as there has been
sufficient mention made of it already; but suffice it to say,
that we had a fine bath in its waters, and staid all night on
its shore, together with a number of others who had come in
wagons and on horseback.
Wednesday, August 25th. It was a bright and clear morn-
ing and we arose early, got our breakfast and, after waiting
a short time to fill a bag with salt, we started back and ar-
rived at the Stockade about noon, where we found the brethren
making preparations to go back to winter quarters, as it is
the intention to start about 6 o'clock in the evening. After
our return from the lake we busied ourselves this afternoon in
getting up the horses, cutting grass for them, that we may
hitch them up for all night in order to be ready with the rest
to make an early start. Brothers Kimball, Whipple and my-
self met in Ellen's room a little after dark to talk over busi-
ness matters, after which we had prayers and retired about
10 p. m.
PIONEERING THE WEST 131
Thursday, August 26th. The weather was beautiful and
as fast as they got ready this morning they started out, one
by one, the first about 9 o'clock. The last of our wagons
started about 10 o'clock. I remained behind to settle some
business with Brother Whipple, who concluded to accompany
me on horseback to the camp. We overtook the wagons about
nine miles from the valley, and traveled six miles further and
encamped near the cold springs on Canyon Creek, on the arm
of prairie spoken of by 0. Pratt in his letter as we came out.
Friday, August 27th. The weather was somewhat warm
and sultry. We arose early and got our breakfast and resumed
our journey. Brother Whipple returned to the valley. We
ascended the long, steep hill, spoken of heretofore, and at
length we attained its summit, having traveled four miles. We
halted a short time for the last teams to get up, many of
which had to double in order to do so. We then traveled down
about four miles and came to Ogden's Fork. After crossing
the stream, we traveled a short distance and stopped to bait
about 4 p. m. Here we continued about one hour and pro-
ceeded on and encamped about sundown, having traveled about
fifteen miles today. We found the feed tolerable good.
The following are the names of those going in Brother
Kimball's wagons: Hosea Gushing, William King, George
Billings, Andrew Gibbons, Carlos Murray, Ralph Douglass, Able
M. Sargant, William Ferril, Albert Sharp, Thurston Lawson,
Edwin Holden. Brother Markham is hauling Porter's wagon
for us until we meet the companies.
Saturday, August 28th. It was pleasant weather, we
started about 7:30 a. m., traveled about twelve miles, forded
Weber Fork, and halted to bait. This stream has fallen con-
siderably since we were here last. We proceeded on our jur-
ney about 3 o'clock, traveled about four miles along the banks
of the river, and then turned abruptly to the left and traveled
through a narrow pass about four miles and encamped, stopping
in single file on the road a little after dark. Some of the
brethren, who had been out hunting, found a steer, which had
strayed from the Battalion. They killed it and divided it
among the camp. Brothers King, dishing and myself made
up our bed on the grass and slept in the open air.
Sunday, August 29th. Tt was pleasant weather and we
proceeded on our journey at 7:35 and traveled about twelve
miles to Redding 's Cave, where we halted to feed about 1
p. m. Soon after we halted. Brother Benson rode up, the
brethren were very glad to see him and gathered around him
to hear the news. He met the company about forty miles this
132 PIONEERING THE WEST
side of Fort John. (Laramie), which consisted of 566 wagons.
He brought a list of names from 1200 to 1500 in number. These
were divided into nine companies. He and Porter left the
forward company on the Sweet Water, where they had lost a
number of their cattle by sickness, and many had strayed
away. He brought a number of papers and letters. I received
one from my wife dated 14th June, leaving them all well,
which rejoiced my heart. I thank my Heavenly Father that
He has blessed them with health and strength, and I pray
God that He may preserve them from evil and from sickness
and death, that we may enjoy each others society again.
About 4 p. m. we proceeded on our journey, came about
four miles and met Porter (Rockwell), four miles further we
encamped in a small valley about dark, having come about
twenty miles today. We had wild sage for fuel. Porter took
supper with Brother Kimball, whom I cook for and mess with.
The evening was cold and some frost.
Monday, August 30th. It was cloudy, gloomy and cold
weather. We started on our journey at 7:40, and after travel-
ing six miles we came to Bear River. After fording, we stopped
to feed at 11 a. m. During the bait, Brother Bullock read the
names of six of the camp that were coming on, after which we
proceeded and traveled on eiglit miles and encamped in the
valley at 4 p. m., making fourteen miles during the clay. The
feed here is pretty good and two good springs of water, and
plenty of cedar on the mountains for fuel. The evening was
cloudy and drizzling rain.
The following is a list of the names in this company : Brig-
ham Young, Alvarus Hanks, John Y. Green, Geo. Clark*, Tru-
man 0. Angell, J. G. Luse*, Joseph S. Schofield, John G. Hoi--
man, A. P. Rockwood, G. R. Grant, Stephen H. Goddard, D.
Laughlin*, Millen Atwood, Wm. Dykes, Thomas Tanner, David
Grant, A. Everett, Thomas Woolsey, Geo. Wilson*, Haywood
Thomas*, Jessie Johnson*, Samuel B. Fox, Willard Richards,
John Brimhall*, Thomas Bullock, A. S. Huntly*, B. B. Rich-
mond*, Rodney Badger, Eli Harvey Peirce, W. W. Rust*, Ezra
T. Benson, Joseph Mathews, Daniel Powel*, James Camp*, Wm.
Pack*, Erastus Snow, Green Flake, Wm. Maclntire*, Benjamin
Stewart*, Geo. W. Brown, John Crow*, Porter Rockwell, P. T.
Mashek*, Chas. Shumway, Wm. Rowe*, C. Rowe*, Andrew P.
Shumway, Burr Frost, B. L. Adams, Wm. Carter, A. P. Chess-
ley, Wm. Wadsworth, Thomas C *, Datus Ensign, John
Gould*, Samuel Gould*, John Dixon, Simeon F. Howd, Amasa
Lyman, Seth Taft, Albert Carrington, John Brown, Stephen
Kelsey, G. A. Smith, J. J. Ferill*, Wilford Woodruff, S. Cham-
PIONEERING THE WEST 133
berlin, Dexter Stillman*. Wm. Senill*, Wm. C. A. Smoot, Nath.
Fairbanks, J. E. Stewart, C. A. Harper, Robert T. Thomas,
Perry Fitzgerald, Isaac N. Weston*, James Case, Ozro East-
man, J. C. Earl, Monroe Frink, Judson Persons, Levi N. Ken-
dall*, Orson Pratt, S. Markham, Joseph Egbert, Geo. Mills, M.
B. Thorpe, C. Kleinman, H. K. Whitney, S. Larsen*, Geo. Bill-
ings, H. C. Kimball, Ralph Douglass*, Howard Egan, Edwin
Holden*, H. Gushing, Wm. Gifford,*, Wm. A. King, Albert
Sharp*, Carlos Murray, A. M. Sargent*, 0. K. Whitney, An-
drew Gibbons, comprising 103 men, 36 wagons, 42 horses and
35 mules.
*Those not marked were returning members of the orig-
inal band of Pioneers. The others were probably "Mormon
Battalion" men, with some exceptions.
President Young called the brethren together this even-
ing for organization, when the following persons were elected
to office: S. Markham, captain of one hundred; Barnabus
Adams and Joseph Mathews, captains of fifties; Brigham
Young, John Brown, Howard Egan, Geo. Clark, Geo. Wilson, E.
Snow, Thomas Tanner and E. A. Harper, captains of tens. Pres-
ident Young selected his ten, which included six of the Twelve,
A. P. Rockwood, S. H. Goddard and J. Schofield. It was moved
that we travel in order, after we had thus organized. Brother
Young advised the brethren to gather up their horses and tie
them, as it was his intention to start as early as 6 o'clock in
the morning, which we accordingly did. Thomas Bullock then
read a portion of the names of those coming on in the companies
expected.
Tuesday, August 31st. The weather was pleasant and we
proceeded on our journey at 7 a. m. and traveled ten miles and
crossed Muddy Fork, the bed of which we found to be quite dry ;
came seven miles and halted to bait at 1 p. m. Here we re-
mained for two hours and then started on. The wagons arrived
at Fort Bridger about 5 p. m. Brother King and myself and a
few others rode ahead on horseback and arrived early in the
afternoon. After the wagons had halted we discovered that one
of our horses was missing and also one of Brother Snow's. The
company moved on about a mile further and encamped, having
come twenty-three miles today. Brother King and myself started
back to look for the horses. Brother Snow overtook us about
five miles from the fort. The evening was very cold. We trav-
eled back within three miles of where we encamped last night
and found our horses about 11:30 o'clock. We made a fire to
warm ourselves and let our horses feed for about half an hour,
and then started back, arriving at the camp a little before sun-
rise. We got our breakfast and laid down to sleep, in order to
134 PIONEERING THE WEST
give our horses a chance to feed, the camp starting ahead.
Brother C. Murray remained with us.
11. MEETING THE TRAINS, SEPTEMBER, 1847.
Wednesday, September 1st, 1847. It was pleasant weather.
I understand the brethren found an ox belonging to the govern-
ment at Fort Bridger. They killed it and divided it among the
soldiers and others. At 10 o'clock Brother Porter, who had
been back at the fort, came along and woke us up. We saddled
our horses and started after the camp, bringing E. Snow's horse
with us; traveled about three miles, when Brother Snow's horse
started back. Brothers King and Murray went back to drive
him up. They met a Frenchman, who helped them to catch the
horse. He is one of three who are going back in company
with us.
We crossed Black's Fork twice, and came seventeen and
three-quarters miles, and found the camp stopped to feed. Soon
after we arrived the camp proceeded on again. I went ahead
with the camp, leaving Brothers King and Murray to bait the
horses. We crossed Black's Fork three times this afternoon,
came fourteen and three-quarters miles and encamped on the
banks of Ham's Fork, having traveled thirty-two miles today.
The evening was very cold.
Thursday, September 2nd. The weather was warm this
morning. The' other two French men arrived at the camp. They
had staid back to hunt up some of their horses that had
strayed away. At 8 o'clock we proceeded on our journey,
crossed Ham's Fork and traveled twenty-two miles and camped
on the banks of Green River about 4 p. m., having traveled
over a barren desert country during the day. We found an
Indian here who had left his tribe (Snakes) two days before
on the Sweet Water. He was going to Bridger 's (Fort). Soon
after we arrived it suddenly blew up very cold. I wrote a letter
this evening to send back to the valley.
Friday, September 3rd. It continues cold and cloudy
weather. We started at 6:30 o'clock, came two miles and forded
the river, which we found to be very low; proceeded ten miles
and stopped at 10 a. m. to feed on the banks of Big Sandy.
Here we remained about two hours and then proceeded on sev-
enteen miles, forded the Big Sandy and encamped on its banks,
having come twenty-seven miles today.
At this place we found Daniel Spencer's company, consist-
ing of about fifty wagons. They reported P. P. Pratt 's com-
pany to be encamped six and three-quarters miles back on the
PIONEERING THE WEST 135
Little Sandy. Brother Spencer's camp was called together and
Brothers Young, Kimball, G. A. Smith and others made some
remarks and gave a general description of the Valley, etc. The
evening was very cold.
Saturday, September 4th. The weather was cool, but
pleasant, and at 8 a. m. D. Spencer's camp was in motion. Some
of our company here met with their families and returned back
to the Valley. The following are some of their names: Wm.
Mclntire, Burr Frost, Datus Ensign, Seth Taft. About the
same time we proceeded on our journey. After going seven
miles we encamped at noon on the banks of Little Sandy. Here
we found P. P. Pratt 's company, consisting of between seventy
and eighty wagons, a messenger having been sent to delay them
this morning until we arrived. I saw many old friends.
The Twelve were in council this afternoon. The people
were again called together and similar instructions and infor-
mation to that of last evening were given by the Twelve and
others. Geo. Mills and E. Holden returned with this company
to the Valley. I took supper with Brother Samuel Moore this
evening. Sister Moore washed some clothes for me. The even-
ing was pleasant.
Sunday, September 5th. The weather was fine and we
pursued our journey at 9 a. m. One of our horses was missing
and I went down the creek about a mile and a half and found
him and also one of Brother Brigham's and E. Snow's. We
crossed the Big Sandy and came about twenty-six miles and en-
camped near the Pacific Springs. Here we found two com-
panies, Brothers Smoot's and Wallace's. Soon after we ar-
rived Brother Rich 's company came up. Here we found Brother
Kimball 's wagons. James Smithers, Peter Hanson, Mary Helen
Harris and Mary Fosgrene were along. The brethren were
called together this evening and received similar instruction to
that which was given to the other companies. Brother Young
said it was his intention 'to remain here tomorrow and have a
meeting at 11 o'clock. The evening was very cold.
Monday, September 6th. It was a pleasant day and the
brethren came together about 11 a. m. and were addressed by
E. Snow and others, who gave instructions similar to what
were given to the other companies. The Twelve and some others
met in council this afternoon. I took a list of the provisions
in Brother Kimball 's wagons, which amounted to 2519 Ibs. of
breadstuff, besides groceries. James Smithers has 1031 Ibs. of
breadstuff, besides groceries. Brother Kimball thought it best
to send back Thurston Larsen, one of the soldiers, to help
Brother Whipple. Carlos Murray was also sent back with F.
Granger, who has the charge of Hiram KimbalPs teams.
136 PIONEERING THE WEST
Brother Whipple will have over 3000 Ibs. of provisions for
five persons Hans C. Hanson, Peter Hanson, Thurston Larson,
Mary Fosgrene and himself. Ellen Saimders and M. E. Harris
have two barrels of flour, groceries, etc. They will not want
much assistance from him. The evening was very cold. I wrote
some in a letter for H. C. Kimball to send to Brother Whipple.
A number of the brethren met their families and turned back.
Tuesday, September 7th. The morning was very cold. The
wagon we had belonging to Neff was sent back in Brother Wal-
lace's care, and Brother Nebeker let us have a lighter one.
About 9 a. m. we started on our journey. A messenger was
sent ahead to stop Brother Taylor's company. Soon after we
started it blew up very cold and began to snow, which continued
until after we encamped, having come about fourteen miles.
Here we found Brother Taylor's 100 encamped on the banks
of the Sweet Water. When the brethren had learned that the
Pioneer Company would encamp with them this evening, they
immediately made preparations to give them a supper, which
was done up in style. Toward evening the weather cleared off.
(Here the Diary ends abruptly.)
*The Diary ends very abruptly and we have no more writ-
ten on the trip, which probably was because, as we learn from
other sources, the Indians had commenced to be troublesome,
stealing horses and committing other depredations.
"An exciting affray took place between the Indians and
the pioneers on the morning of September 21st. The brethren
were just getting ready to start, when the alarm was given by
the men who had been sent out to gather up the horses, that
the Indians were 'rushing' them driving them off. The camp
flew to arms just in time to receive the onslaught of the sav-
ages, who, emerging from the timber and firing their guns,
charged upon them at full speed.
"There were at least two hundred mounted warriors. A
return volley from the Pioneers broke the Indian charge, and
the brethren then gave chase. The sight of their daring cour-
age spread consternation among the Indians, who broke and
fled incontinently. The old chief who had directed the attack
now shouted to his band and proclaimed peace to the Pioneers,
telling them that he and his warriors were good Sioux, and had
mistaken them for Crows or Snakes, with whom they were at
war. The brethren thought it good policy to accept the excuse,
transparent though it was, and to appear satisfied with the ex-
planation. "Life of Heber C. Kimball, page 394.
Continuing on their way, the Pioneers of the returning
company arrived in safety at Winter Quarters oh the 31st of
October. The joy of their meeting was no doubt very great, and
PIONEERING THE WEST
137
they found that during their absence that peace and prosperity
had generally prevailed. Horace A. Egan was born August 17th,
1847, and Helen Egan August 28th, 1847, at Winter Quarters,
just before their return. The winter was spent there with their
families. We now turn to H. K. Kiran's recital.
Dave Kimball and Wife.
138 PIONEERING THE WEST
SEC. IV. SECOND TRIP WITH FAMILY.
12. WINTER QUARTERS.
How and when we left this place I do not know, or how we
got to Winter Quarters, and I do not remember of seeing father
from the time last seen in the rope factory to the time we were
living in our log house in Winter Quarters. How well I remem-
ber the excitement of us boys when we saw the smoke of a
steamboat rising over the trees that were on a point of land
just where the river made a great bend below the town. The
boat was coming up stream and made a great cloud of smoke.
It came on and passed between our shore and the island that
lay opposite the town, then stopped at the next point above for
wood. It was about a mile away. Some of the boys went up
there to get a closer view, but I was afraid I would get my
jacket dusted if I went, so refused to go with them. ' While at
Winter Quarters I saw the largest fish I have ever seen in my
life. It was a catfish caught by a man named Sheets. They
had to load *it in the wagon by hauling it up with ropes. It was
about two-thirds the length of the wagon bed, and oh, what a
mouth! I do believe if it had not been for. the very long and
sharp teeth I could have crawled into that fish very easy. It
was still alive when I saw it, and the men warned us boys
against putting our hands near enough to be struck by his bay-
onet, that was laying on his back about one-third of his length
from his head to his tail, and on a hinge or joint, so he could
strike with it at will, or raise it and dive under an enemy and
rip him open. That sight caused me ever after to be afraid of
swimming in waters that I was not acquainted with.
It was here that I did my first agricultural work. There
was a path back of our house that ran straight through the
field to the next street. Mother gave me a package of sun-
flower seeds and told me to go down one side and back the
other and stick my finger in the ground at every step and drop
one seed in the hole and cover it up, and keep about one foot
from the path. This I did and afterwards saw two rows of
large sunflowers with pan-like heads. The rows were not ex-
actly straight, for this was my first gardening and I had no
line.
One day I heard that the hazel nuts were ripe, so next day
David Kimball and I went to the Bluffs after some. We
PIONEERING THE WEST 139
found a nice patch that had not been culled over. We each
had a small sack that would hold about two quarts. We had
these about half full when Dave went to about the middle of
the patch and said, "I claim from that tree to that bush and
to that tree," and so on, turning and pointing out a circle that
took in the whole patch except a small margin around the de-
scribed circle. He kept watching that I did not trespass on
his claim. The nuts were just as good and just as thick out-
side of his claim as inside. If they had not been I might have
got a drubbing for stealing. At that time I was a little afraid
of him, although we had never quarreled.
Well, we had filled the sacks and were piling the nuts in-
side our shirts, having tightened bur belts to keep them from
falling out. We had gathered about all we could handle, and
Dave had not covered one-hundredth part of his claim, when
there came up a heavy rainstorm and we had to leg it for home,
where we arrived with clothes soaked through, and Jiad lost
all the nuts but those in the sacks. We never went after hazel
nuts again.
One day, with a boy named Levi Green, we were peeling
the bark off a slippery elm log that was laying in the back
yard. We boys used to get the bark to eat or to dry for future
use. Levi, on one side of the log, had a hatchet with which to
cut off the outside rough bark and cut across the ends. Then
the bark could be peeled off in long strips.
He had made a strip ready for peeling, when I asked him
to let me take his, hatchet to get some ready on my side of the
log. He let me have it, and as I was working with it he said,
''Give me the hatchet." I said, "Just a minute." "I want
it right now," he said, so I handed it to him and laid both of
my hands on top of the log. "Why didn't you give it to me
sooner?" he said. "I will cut your fingers off," and made a
motion as if to strike at my left hand, which I drew quickly
off, but he changed the stroke and the hatchet cut off my two
middle fingers of my right hand at the first joint. One finger
was hanging by a little piece of skin.
I ran to the house crying, and as Mother wanted to cut the
skin that still held the finger, I put up a big cry and begged
her to put the finger on again. She decided to do so, but
hardly believed it would knit and grow there. She did the best
she could with splints and bandages; then went out and found
the other piece, but it was so dirty she decided not to try
growing it to its place, but put it in a bottle with some liquid
to preserve it.
My fingers were not examined for three days ; then Mother
140 PIONEERING THE WEST
saw that I, in my playing, had twisted the piece partly around,
but it was too late to attempt to straighten it, as it was joined
again good and fast. Many a time since then I have wished
she had taken it off, for it would have saved me much trouble
by being out of the way.
So you see a small part of me lays buried at Winter Quar-
ters, where at the resurrection I must go to make my body
whole. But if that is the plan, what a job some people will
have to collect the pieces and get them into place. There are
some few other things I can remember about Winter Quarters,
but will pass them by.
13. ON TO SALT LAKE.
*0n the 24th of May, 1848, the First Presidency organized
the main body of the Saints on the Elk Horn, preparatory to
the second journey to the Rocky mountains. The camp con-
sisted of over six hundred wagons, the largest company that
had yet set out to cross the plains, and were under the care and
supervision of Brigham Young and Heber C. Kimball. We
have no family Diary of this trip, but Howard R. writes from
memory as follows:
I recollect getting in the covered wagon that took us away
from Winter Quarters, but don't remember of seeing Father
till later. We had arrived at the Horn River and crossed, the
ferry and camped for the night about two hundred yards from
it. That evening there was much excitement in camp, as a report
had come in from the 1 herders that a band of Indians were run-
ning off all the stock. The next morning we heard that the
men had saved the stock, but a couple of our men had been
wounded. Before noon, as I was sitting in the front of the
wagon, I saw two men holding Father up and leading him
towards our wagon from the ferry. His arms were hanging
down and his chin was on his breast. I heard the men say that
the Indians had shot him through the wrist. He had swum
the Horn River that way, and had lost so much blood he could
not do it again, so they had to bring him around by the ferry.
I now could see him every day and watch Dr. Bernhisel dress
the wound and trim the ends of the cords with a pair of scis-
sors where they stuck out of the flesh. Father had been shot
in the wrist of his right hand, and the bullet cut every cord
of the thumb and fingers in the course, but broke no bones. It
was here that Thomas Ricks was shot in the back with buck-
shot, but not killed.
PIONEERING THE WEST 141
14. SCENES BY THE WAY.
We left the Horn River, and the next I remember was see-
ing Fort Laramie. We were on the opposite side of the Platte
River from the fort. We saw it for the most of two days,
first in the west and then in the east.
Buffalo Stampede. The next thing I remember was one
day we had camped for noon. I was playing near the end of
the wagon tongue. Our wagon was the first on that wing of
the corral. Mother caught her boys, and before I knew any-
thing more we landed in the wagon, and she followed, and just
in time, for a stampeded herd of buffalos was coming straight
for the camp. They divided just a little way from the camp,
some passing the back, some the front of the corral. Some of
them passed over the end of our wagon tongue, doing no dam-
age, but the part that passed the back end struck and broke a
hind wheel of the last wagon in our wing. We staid there to
repair damages till next day.
Prairie Dogs. I remember the first colony of prairie dogs
we passed through. The whole earth seemed to be covered with
little mounds, on which we could see the dogs sitting some-
times. There was a warning given out that if anyone shot one
of these dogs and the body fell into a hole, not to reach for it
with the naked hand, as the rattlesnakes lived in the same holes
as the dogs did.
When a dog was shot, while standing on one end on top
of a mound, it always fell into the hole, and it was dangerous
to try to get it, other than with a stick. These dog colonies
would cover acres, but the colonies would be miles apart. It
seems to me now that we could see dozens of the dogs at a time
all sitting upright and watching our train, and if a person
started towards them there would be a general barking chorus
and instantly every dog would disappear and not appear again
till the intruder had left to a safe distance.
Antelope. One day as our train was passing the open part
of a bend in the river, I was sitting in the front end of the
wagon, when Father, who was driving, ran to the side of the
wagon and said, " Mother, quick, my gun," Mother was as
quick as she could be, but before she could pass the gun out
Father said, "too late." There had been an antelope in the
bend and as the train reached from one point to another he
could not pass out only by running between the river and the
train, in doing this it brought him within five or six rods of
us, and all the train back of us. I saw the animal and Father
told us it was an antelope, and, if he could have got his gun
quick enough we could have had some nice meat. Mother said
142 PIONEERING THE WEST
it was a shame to kill such a pretty animal as that. We heard
a number of shots but I did not know till suppertime that
someone had killed it, when Mother said, "This is some of that
pretty antelope you saw when Father wanted his gun."
One afternoon we camped close to the river bank. There
was a large island at this place separated from our bank of
the river by a sloug'h or small stream of very clear and deep
water and about three rods wide. The men wanted to see if
the grass was better on the island. It was very poor every-
where else, having ' been grazed off by the large herds of
buffalo and other grass eating animals.
The bank of the river here from the water to the top
was higher than a man's head. I was standing on this bank
when one of the men volunteered to swim over and see how it
was on the island. I saw him go down to the water edge.
There was just enough room for him to stand between the
bank and the water. He took all his clothes off and slipped
into the water. That was the first time I ever saw every mo-
tion a person makes while swimming. I saw him get out on
the other side and disappear in the timber, but remember
no more about this affair.
One day our wagon was the last in the train and Mother,
who was driving the team, let me get out and walk behind
the wagon. I took my time and gradually fell back till I
could hardly see the wagon, when I noticed this it scared
me so I ran at my fastest speed, but soon was out of wind
and went very slow again to gain my breath, and took an-
other run, but I was .getting farther behind all the time. As
the train was nearing a rolling country, where I couldn't be
seen, Mother got George Redding to come back and get me.
He took hold of my hand and tried to make me run the
whole distance to the train, but finding I was about all in
he swung me on his back and tried to rattle my teeth out by
running at a dog trot, stamping his feet as hard as he could
to give me a good jolting, and something to remember him
by, which this proves I do, for I never got very far from the
wagon again.
I remember of helping Mother gather "buffalo chips" for
fire material, as there was nothing else and they made a good
fire* When, we camped where there was plenty of them we
would collect a couple of sacks full and carry them to the
next camp, for sometimes they would be very scarce.
Now this is what I heard at the time, but did not see:
Some one in the camp had lost part of a sack of beans. Some
one had stolen them. Part of them were found in the feed
box of a certain man, where he had placed them for his team
PIONEERING THE WEST 143
to eat, thinking it was corn. He had stolen them after dark
and by his mistaking beans for orn was detected. I could
mention the man's name, but think it best not to.
Chimney Rock From the Pioneer Road.
I recollect seeing Chimney Rock. It was on the opposite
side of the river, but quite plainly seen from our side. Some
of the men went across to get a close view of it.
One day we camped a little ways from a dry Salaratus
Lake. Mother took me along with her to get some. It was
very hard and smooth and we had only table knives to dig it
out, but I remember we got as much as Mother could carry
to the wagon. It lasted for a number of years after we ar-
rived in the valley. This place is not far east of Independence
Rock, which I remember very well. The road passes around
the southern end of the rock and only a couple of rods irom
it. To me it appeared to be the shape of the Salt Lake Taber-
nacle, only very much larger. There was hundreds of names
of people written on it. Some in large letters and far out of
the reach of anyone standing on the ground. The men had
been warned about climbing on top, as there were a number
of large cracks running crossways that were very deep and
to fall in one of them was sure death and probably the body
could never be found.
Next we came to the Sweet Water, that runs through the
Devil's Gate. Traveling up this stream, which was very
crooked, Mother was driving when the next wagon ahead of
ours turned over into a creek or bog hole. The driver (a man
named Holt, I believe), did not swing out far enough to
strike the bridge fair, so two wheels missed the bridge. There
were tAvo children* in the wagon sitting on top of boxes and
144
PIONEERING THE WEST
bales, but in a twinkling- this was reversed, children under
and only the wagon cover to keep them from drowning. The
man called for help and soon the men came running from
both ways. The children had not been severely hurt and all
was on the move again soon after.
Devil's Gate, we could see as we climbed the bluffs to
the west. - The very deep and narrow cut through which the
water ran, it seemed to me, was over a hundred feet deep,
with almost perpendicular walls " and about twenty-five to
forty feet apart at the top.
Fort Bridger is the next place remembered, with its low
dirt covered houses near the bank of the river. Indians and
white men all dressed in buckin clothes, and more dogs, half-
Camping at Echo Canyon.
bred wolf, than you could shake a stick at. It was here that
Father traded for the same pistol he had held in his hand
and dropped, when shot, in the fight at the Horn River. It
had passed from Indian to Indian and arrived at Bridger long
before we did.
I remember Echo Canyon, the high perpendicular rocks on
the off side of the road most of the way through. We could
hear the men calling and dogs barking from one cliff to an-
other, although the ones starting the sound was far ahead of
us, it went bounding from cliff to cliff, repeating the sound
perfectly.
PIONEERING THE WEST X45
"Mother has related the following many times about Echo
Canyon : At the head or summit, before entering Echo Can-
yon, Father was called to assist in some repairs that were
necessary on Heber C. Kimball's wagon, which made it neces-
sary for Mother to drive the team until he should catch up,
which he expected would not be long.
She had two yoke of cattle and a -yoke of cows, which
she drove down that canyon, and she missed more stumps and
rocks than any other driver, so it was said, crossing the stream
twenty-seven times. Some times she would be ahead of the
team, some times between the cattle and wagon, to pass brush,
trees and rocks.
Her son Erastus was in the wagon, having been run over.
It seems he was being lifted into the wagon, but slipped in
some way and fell under the tongue and would have escaped
all right, only on account of a pig that was tied under the
back of the wagon. In trying to get out of the way of the
pig his foot got under the wheel.
Those of the family who could walk were on ahead and
Mother's was the lead team. Those ahead would holler out,
"Here is another creek," and Mother would say, "D n
the creeks!" This she used to tell many times. Howard R.
further states:
Then we came to Weber River and when we left the camp
here Father said we had to climb a mountain for seven miles,
and I thought before we did get to the top we had come seven
hundred miles, for he had us walk up every step of it, and
not only that, but down the other side, where it was awful
steep, and everything loose in the wagon was liable to attempt
to pass the team. The net day we were on the little mountain,
where Father took us to one side of the road and pointed out
the place where we would live in the great Salt Lake Valley.
It was two more days when Father drove the team and landed
the wagon near to the door of a house, near the middle of the
south side of the north fort, where we lived for a couple of
years.
Before their arrival, the Fort at Salt Lake Valley con-
tained 423 apartments and 1670 people and 875 acres had been
sown to winter wheat. It was in June of this year that myriads
of big crickets came down from the mountains and would have
devoured the crops, but for the arrival of immense flocks of
seagulls, which devoured the crickets.
PART II.
SALT LAKE: INCIDENTS OF EARLY
SETTLEMENT.
SEC. I. OUR HOME LIFE.
15. THE OLD FORT.
*It was in September, 1848, that the family arrived in Salt
Lake Valley and moved into a room of the Old Fort that had
been provided for them. This Old Fort had been commenced
when Father was at Salt Lake on the first trip and was built
on the square now called Pioneer Park. Howard R. goes on
to say:
I remember the rainy season, when the sun was not seen
for nearly a month. The roof of our house was a shed roof,
covered with inch lumber, plastered with clay on the outside.
The roof had sagged so that there was quite a depression in
the center. This had filled with water and was leaking
through to the room below.
Heber C. Kimball called in to see how we were all get-
ting along. He had not sat there long when the roof settled
more with a loud crack. Kimball jumped out of the door and
called Mother to come out quick or the roof would fall on
her. No she would not go out, but invited him to come back
in out of the rain, but no, he went off in a hurry.
When he had gone Mother placed a tub under where the
drip was, then stood up in a chair and run a table knife up be-
tween the boards, so letting the water come down in a stream
faster than she could carry it in the bucket to the door. Soon
the weight on the roof was lessened enough to allow the roof
to spring back some, and the danger of it falling in was re-
moved.
A few minutes after this had been done a man came run-
ning to the door with a post to place under the sagging roof
to hold it up. He said Brother Kimball had sent him. Moth-
er told him she would not have a post set up in the middle of
her parlor and for him to tell Brother Kimball that the danger
148 PIONEERING THE WEST
was passed and he could now return and finish his visit if he
so desired.
Of late years I often think of what a hard life Mother
had in pioneer days, but I suppose that was the lot of all
the pioneers; digging' roots and gathering greens, catching
fish in the Jordan River, collecting anything eatable to make
what little flour and cornmeal we had last till another sup-
ply could be procured, was the common lot. Wood was also
scarce, even the bark of the fence poles was stripped off for
fuel, for the men could not spare the time to haul wood from
the canyons.
Father was away most all the time working for the church
and Mother would never ask for help if she could avoid it.
Possibly she could have got along easier and with less trouble
if she had not been so independent. I have heard her say that
she would work her finger ends off before she would ask for
assistance.
16. DUE NEW HOME.
After we moved out of the Fort to our new home, on the
second lot south of the corner of First North and Main
Street, in April, 1849, Mother had a little better time of it
than before. We had a house built of adobes with a shingle
roof. There was but one large room that was plastered sides
and ceiling, and a lumber floor that Mother used to mop every
day. She took quite a pride in her white floor. It was in
this house, June 13, 1851, that W. M. Egan was born. Here
we could keep a pig and some poultry, which helped along
Very nicely, besides we were now able to keep a cow.
Oh, we were just beginning to live fat, and we had our
garden in. It was here that I saw the largest spider that I
ever did in my life. Mother heard the chickens making ,a
great fuss back of the house. She looked out of the back win-
dow and saw the chickens standing in a ring around a large
spider. It was standing as high as possible with one leg
raised, and striking at the hens when they ventured too close.
Mother got a tin box about three by six inches, and one and
a half inches deep, laying this on the ground she drove the
thing over the* box. Where it stood its legs reached the ground
each side of the box without touching it. Mother gave it a tap
with a stick and it pulled its legs in and settled down in the
box, which it nearly filled. Mother slid the cover on the box
and set it in the window and when she went to let a visitor
see it, found that the sun, shining on the box, had killed the
spider. Its body was about the size of a silver quarter.
PIONEERING THE WEST
149
Mother pinned it to a board with a needle and kept it for a
long time for people to see.
Laying Cornerstone of Temple. It was while we lived
here that I witnessed the first breaking of ground for the
fovn^ption of the Temple (February 14, 1853), and a few
months after, the laying of the cornerstone (April 6, 1853),
when there seemed to be thousands of people there to wit-
ness it. There was an immense mound of earth near the
southwest corner of where the Temple was to be built. This
earth was what had been dug out of the place for the founda-
tion. The day was set for the laying of the cornerstone. This
mound as well as the whole surrounding space was covered
by a very large number of very happy people. Some had come
many miles to witness the ceremony. With some of my boy
friends I stood on the northeast side near the top of the
mound, and had a good view of the southeast corner, where the
stone was laid. And since that time I have seen the gradual
growth of those heavy walls up to the capstone, being about
forty years from the breaking of the ground to the capstone.
Late View of Salt Lake Temple.
There are a great many events that come to my mind, while
we lived just across the street from Heber C. Kimball. I
shoveled dirt with the rest of the boys to dig out the place for
the foundation of the large adobe two-story house of Brother
Kimball's. I remember when the first grading of Main street
was being done north of Temple block, how sorry I felt to
see a man cut down a very large oak tree that was standing
in the middle of where they wanted the road. There was
150 PIONEERING THE WEST
only one more tree as large and that stood some distance to
the southeast, I think, in Bishop Whitney's lot. Each year
they were loaded down with acorns. I have climbed both of
these trees to gather them. I can't see now why such land-
marks should not have been preserved.
17. GRASSHOPPERS AND CRICKETS.
It was while we lived here that we had the grasshopper
invasion. I remember that during the heat of the day they
were so thick in the sky that at times you could not see the
sun, and where they would light for the night, or when the
wind was too strong from the direction they wanted to travel,
they destroyed everything green. All of this mighty army of
hoppers were traveling in a southeasterly direction and in
two or three days had finished their work here and passed on.
Over at the great lake they did not fare so well. There along
the shore could be seen great windrows of their bodies that had
been washed ashore by the north winds. Near Black Rock
there were three such rows, so wide and high that a man could
have filled a wagon bed with them as quick as he could have
shoveled that much sand, and the whole shore line facing the
north was just the same. Millions of bushels of preserved or
pickeled grasshoppers, that would do no more harm.
Crickets. Oh! yes, I must not forget them! Well they
hatched out all along on top of the bench land, and as they
grew kept working down hill, leaving nothing green behind ex-
cept sage brush. The road north of our place ran along the
lower level of the bench, the grain and hay fields being still
farther down and a fence between the road and fields. When
the crickets got near the road, war was declared and the fight
was on ; men, women and children walking back and forth swing-
ing brooms made of willows or bunches of grass, trying to drive
the enemy back, but with very little success.
This kind of warfare only made the enemy more hungry,
and every morning would find them nearer the grain, till at last,
was put in operation, our biggest gun, which consisted of all
the sheep, cows and horses that could be collected. These were
crowded together and driven back and forth the length of the
field slaying the enemy by the legions. Thus it only required
about a week to save part of the crop, but a little was better
than none those days. The next year this was repeated, only
on a smaller scale, for the enemy's ranks had been sadly de-
pleted by the large flocks of sea gulls that used them for food.
*This was in following years after the sea gulls had saved
the first crop.
PIONEERING THE WEST 151
18. ANOTHER HOME.
When Father returned from one of his trips he got ac-
quainted with a couple of men named Mr. Moore and W. E.
Horner. Together they bought a city lot in the Nineteenth
ward. On this lot had been built a very large barn intended for
a livery stable. The man Horner was some of a horse doctor,
and Father and Moore gave him the reins to do as he thought
best. The lot was a corner lot and directly cata-cornered from
the northeast corner of union square.
The barn was built cross ways of the lot and about a third
of its length down from the south end. There had been an
adobie house built about sixteen feet south of the southeast
corner of the barn, leaving a space for a shed, which was sup-
ported at the corner of the barn by a large squared log for a
post on which were placed the plates to hold the roof. After-
ward it had been decided to make another room of this by lay-
ing up three adobie walls, joining onto the first room and of
the same width, and one roof to cover all. There was a door in
the first room facing the south street and a window in the west
side. The new room had a door and window on the west side,
a door on the east side, and a window in the north end. From
the barn south was all open ground, sometimes used by emi-
grants for camping. From the barn north the lot was fenced
with a strong fence, making a secure, corral to turn animals in,
to feed.
Mr. Moore did not stay long in the partnership and Horner
went east to bring his wife across the plains, and all this time
there was not much done Avith the stable. When Horner came
back he built a house on the next lot north of the barn, and
for a while business was flourishing, at least in the summer time,
but taken all together. Father,, when they tried to settle up, was
not satisfied and bought Horner out, calculating to make a
dairy barn of it as soon as he could make the proper arrange-
ments.
The barn had been built on large flat rocks placed at in-
tervals along the outer side principally under the joints of the
heavy bed timbers. The rocks had been sunk in the ground so
there was but a small space between the sills and the ground.
Earth had been placed all around to stop the draft. Us boys,
and many of the neighboring boys, used to spend manv an hour
under there crawling from one place to another. Sometimes
digging trenches in the hard ground so we could crawl under a
beam to get to another corner that we couldn't reach without.
152 PIONEERING THE WEST
19. THE BURNING OF THE BARN.
One day us boys took onr little cart and went up on the hill-
side to get some oak brush for firewood. We were about to
start for home when we chanced to see a small blaze at the east
end of the barn, watching 1 this for a very few moments we saw
the flame spread all over that end. We were about a half mile
away. We dropped everything and ran as fast as we could for
home.
When we arrived there the job had been completed, nothing
left of the barn but a huge pile of live coals. Mother was sitting
out in the yard surrounded by her household goods that had
been quickly removed to a safe distance. They had not been
handled very carefully and I remember Mother saying they
might as well have been left to burn as to have been smashed
to pieces as some of the things were. The house was saved, but
somewhat damaged. The large corner post I have mentioned
was nearly burned out. The north window was burned, and the
glass melted and run to the ground. The shingles near the north
end were badly scorched. The whole place would have been
swept clean if it had not been that there was a large stream of
water at hand which was turned in the lot and the whole house
was kept under a sheet of water.
Now the cause of the fire was learned from Mother. But
first let me say that there was no stoves in the house. All the
cooking was done by an open fireplace, one such being in each
room. The wind was blowing quite a gale from the south. This
helped to save the house, but caused the blaze.
The woman that lived in the south room had let her fire
die out, and came to Mother to g*et some live coals to start a
fire with. She got some on a shovel and went out of the back
door, but soon returned for more, saying the others had all
blowed away. She had just passed out the second time when
the alarm of fire was given and people from all directions came
running with buckets and ladders and the fight was on. For
days the stream of water was running into that pile of coals.
There was three horses in the stalls. They could get out. but
two which were turned loose in the corral ran back through the
flames, one reaching his stall, the other getting only part way,
as shown by what was left of them after the fire had been
killed.
We lost all of our chickens, and our pig had lost all of his
bristles, while his pen was burning so he could escape. There
was about thirty tons of hay in the barn, and the grain room
was full of oats and barley. There were four sets of harness
and some saddles in the harness room. All went up in smoke,
PIONEERING THE WEST
153
besides a good many carpenter tools. The flames had spread
so rapidly that it was imposible to save much that \vas in the
barn. The two horses might have been saved if they had been
tied to a post when taken out.
Well, we slept in our house that night, a blanket being put
up at the north window hole, but I don't think Mother slept
much. There was plenty of help offered to replace the furni-
ture back in the house, but Mother wanted time to consider if it
would not be just as well to finish the smashing and breaking
business where it was.
Upper Main Street, Salt Lake City, 1860. Bishop Hunter's Residence, Telegraph
Office, Etc., JuMt North of Deseret National Bank Building.
: >
154 PIONEERING THE WEST
SEC. II. RELICS.
20. INDIAN MOUNDS.
There was a couple of small mounds on the south side of
the lot just where the fence was to be placed. These had to be
cut down to the level of the surrounding land, and by doing
this there was dug up a large number of human bones, and also
quantities of some kind of berries that were petrified. There
was quite a number of arrow spikes made of black and white
flint, and some few pieces of pottery of a dark brown color. This
part of the lot was covered all over with large cobble stones,
while all around it for some distance there were none.
21. THE INDIAN PORTRAIT.
In the largest red ravine that leads down from Ensign
Peak bench, and about half way to the bottom, was a cliff of
rocks from side to side, and about twenty-five or thirty feet
high. It was more than perpendicular, for the top leaned over
to such an extent that. water coming down the gulch would fall
clear off the face of the cliff, which was composed of a con-
glomeration of different kinds of stones all cemented together
with hardpan.
On the right hand side as you go up, and some ten feet
above the steep sloping earth at the bottom, was embedded in
the walls a boulder about three feet in diameter, flush with the
face of the wall. On this boulder was painted, with red, blue,
and black material, the figure of an Indian sitting on his horse.
He was a big, broad-shouldered man, dressed in the Indian
fashion, large plumes of feathers on his head, a long spear in
one hand, the other held the bridle reins. Just close back of
him on the same rock was a small band of Indians all on horses,
apparently some distance away, but all could be seen very
plainly.
The horses were almost as perfectly drawn as could be by
a camera. The Indian was in the correct position for sitting a
horseback, and must have b^en taken from life, but by whom?
and what kind of paint used, to staind the weather so long? It
could not be washed off and when I last saw it, it was just as
bright as ever, only where the boys had tried to chip off a piece
PIONEERING THE WEST 155
that would have some of the paint on, by throwing small boul-
ders at it, thus marring the painting badly.
That is another thing that should have been preserved. It
could have been easily chiseled out and carried away.
The Tannery. Father owned an interest in the Margetcs
tannery, but when and how he got out of it I do not know, but
I do know that the venture never made him a millionaire. This
tannery was just across the street west of our home.
*The tannery was started by Richard Margetts, Father and
Robert Golding, the latter of whom had a tannery a block and
a half north of our home. I think Father put in a piece of
Main street property and finally took it out in boots and shoes
for his Deep Creek store.
Deep Snow. Cattle Starving. One morning in 1857 I
awoke to find a heavy snowstorm had set in, and it continued
all day, all night, and all next day, and until some time in the
night. The next morning" when I was able to go out I found
that the snow was up to my waist or about two and a half feet
deep on a level. Some places eight feet deep in the valley. It
was some days before the roads were broke open so travel could
be resumed.
Some of us boys heard that there were a good many cattle
caught out on the range, west of Jordan, and were dead or dy-
ing and that boys could make something by going over there
and getting the hides off the dead ones. Three of us got our
sleds and ropes ready and when the snow had settled and crust-
ed so it would bear our weight we started on our exploring trip.
When about four miles northwest of the Jordan bridge we
found a bunch of ten or twelve cattle, every one dead, and lay-
ing close together. By helping each other we were able to start
for home about 3 or 4 o'clock p. m., each with a hide on his
sled. We repeated this the next day, but the next a thaw wind
called a halt as far as boy sleds were concerned. We sold the
hides for $3 apiece, which we considered millionaire wages.
*Freezing and Starving. In the winter of 1857, probably
just before the snowstorm mentioned in the preceding para-
graphs, Father \vent east after some cattle that he had heard
were for sale. His business was buying cattle in winter to
drive to California for Beef, in summer. He had a man with
him and when in the mountains this heavy storm caught them
and they got lost.
While endeavoring to save his companion from freezing
by. rubbing his feet, his own froze. He lost one of his little
toes entirely, and I have cut the calloused parts from his heels
156 PIONEERING THE WEST
and toes many a time afterward. They were three days with
but a pinch of cracker crumbs and after that ten days without
anything to eat. His companion often said he would lie down
'and die, but Father would coax him and say 1 will try and
save my life, and would go ahead and set down in a hollow
and his companion would finally come along.
When they got in sight of Fort Bridger the snow was
crusted and their clothing and shoes were cut to pieces break-
ing 1 the crust and they would leave blood in their tracks, but
they tore up their blankets and wrapped their feet and legs
as best they could. They finally arrived at Fort Bridger and
were used up for many days. The skin of the calf of their
legs could be wrapped around the bone.
^Federal Army. Father had scarcely recovered from the
exposures of freezing and starving when the Federal Army
was sent to wipe out the ''Mormons" and as he was an active
militia man with title of major he -was much concerned in the
activities that brought about a settlement in this affair.
In May, 1858, lather was sent with a company to escort
Colonel Kane to Florence, having the following recommenda-
tion, which was signed by Governor Cummings:
Facsimile of Recommend from Governor Gumming.
PIONEERING THE WEST 157
From California Father obtained ammunition for the
Nauvoo Legion, as is shown by the following receipt:
Facsimile of Receipt tor Ammunition for Nauvoo Legion.
We do not have any farther details of his personal activ-
ities in the matter and do not wish to take up space in re-
hearsing what has many times been said respecting it.
*The Move. While Father was east escorting Colonel
Kane, the family moved south with the rest of the Saints, all
of whom abandoned their homes, while the army the United
States had sent here to clean them out. was passing through
Salt Lake City, the preparation being made to destroy every
home, if the army attempted to take possession. The family
went to Prove, but soon returned as far as Mullener's Mill,
where the Lehi Sugar Factory now stands, and lived in a dug-
out. Mullener's Mill dam broke away three times while we
were there. After the Federal Army had passed on to Fort
Crittenden in Cedar Valley we returned to our home in Salt
Lake City.
Immigration Fund. Father at one time gave W. H. Sher-
man $100 gold coin to help poor English converts to emigrate
to Utah, and to assist as many, as possible. Sherman went on
his mission to England and on his arrival there commenced
sending back notes for the various amounts loaned to the dif-
ferent people that did not have quite enough money to pay
their fare, each giving their note for the amount received, with
the promise to pav Father out of the first money earned after
their arrival in Utah.
158
P I O N E E R ING THE WEST
About four years after the date of the last note, Father
gave them to me to figure up the amount of the thirty notes,
to see how close to the $100 the total would come, as he said it
would cost something to change the money to English. We
found that the notes amounted to exactly $100. We could not
figure out how it had been done without the cost of exchange
had been divided to each note as interest in advance.
Father had intended the money to act on the perpetual
plan, by sending it back to help more, as soon as paid.
Father said he might be able to collect the most of it by
calling on each person owing him, but said probably they
Deseret .News and Tithing Office Corner in 1860, Where Hotel Utah Now Stands.
needed the money, and so told me to take these notes and
burn them, which I did, but it destroyed ' his perpetual as-
sistance plan.
*Before Mother died a note for $50, which had been given"
for the same purpose, was found and it was given to John
Morgan for a life scholarship in his college, which he used to
pay a painter that had been immigrated by it.
A short time ago a man, who said he had been secretary
of a theatrical organization, said he remembered counting the
_ PIONEERING THE WEST _ 159
door receipts and found a $10 gold piece among the silver
coins and asked the doorkeeper how he got that, who said it
was given by Howard Egan for his entrance fee and to help
them.
In 1862 he was made a deputy clerk of the United States
Third Judicial District Court in and for Utah Territory, as at-
tested by the following certificate:
I
- i 6*wf *f &L It, J '
//// I /->tn t^fts+.f 4iir<nj . f),.f f/.*,tft<.r
Facsimile of Appointment a Deputy Clerk of the U. S. Third
Judicial Court.
Many things of interest could be placed here, but our space
is too limited and we are more concerned with the Pioneering
features. If we had all of Father's papers that were kept dur-
ing Mother's lifetime we would need several volumes to con-
tain them, to say nothing of the many thrilling incidents of
his life that now cannot be told.
160 PIONEERING THE WEST
SEC. Ill STORIES OF EARLY SALT LAKE.
22 THE COLD SWIM.
When I was a boy I thought if any one started for a cer-
tain place and backed out it showed that they were cowards,
and this opinion has caused me at different times some hard-
ships and discomfort. So if any one makes up his mind
to do something or go somewhere and it is not really neces-
sary, don't act bull-headed and face all kinds of trouble just
to say you didn't back out, for in after years, when some
ailment gets a good hold of you, think what a fool you were,
though you didn't at the time, know that it would get it back
on you with ten-fold the suffering you first experienced.
I could mention a good many times that I should have
backed out, but will tell you of but one at this time. A num-
ber of the boys that used to go hunting down Jordan river
said they never killed anything but they got it. This, because
sometimes a duck would fall on the opposite side of the river.
Now, I had shot a big mallard duck. He fell just on the edge
of the opposite bank. There was another hunter with me,
who said, "Now I guess you won't get that one, for there is
mush ice floating down the river and its three miles to the
bridge, and before you could go around some coyote would
get it." "I'll see about that." So, taking off all my clothes
I rolled them in a snug little bundle with my gun in the middle
and fastened them on my head with my- belt over the top and
under my chin. The other hunter said, "I wouldn't go after
that duck for half a dozen like him. He is not worth it."
"I know that," I said, "but I always make it my business to
get what I kill." I waded in as far as I could and had only
about one rod to swim, but that was through the mush ice
and was quite a plenty for me. The air was warmer than the
water. I was soon dressed again and, picking up the duck,
said good-bye to the hunter that had watched the whole pro-
ceeding.
I started up the river for the bridge, not feeling any the
worse for my bath, but in fact somewhat refreshed, but let me
say right here, I would not advise any one to take that kind
of health treatment. I was a little lucky that day, for before I
reached the bridge a flock of geese flew over me and I brought
down a nice big fellow and he didn't fall the other side of the
PIONEERING THE WEST 161
river, and when I reached the bridge I got a chance to ride
most of the way home, besides selling the duck to the man
that drove the team for 50 cents, that being the amount we
usually got for a large duck.
23. SETTING A GUN FOR BEAR.
There was a man by the name of Cragan that had lived
a couple of blocks south of my home, who had been killed in
north Mill Creek canyon while going after firewood. He was
riding on the front hounds of his wagon when the king bolt
broke and the front axeltree rolled over and pinned him down
under the heels of his horses. They were frightened and ran
away, kicking the man to death and making a complete wreck
of the front part of the wagon and the harness, besides nearly
killing themselves.
The man had another team of oxen and a strong heavy
wagon that the widow used to let out to haul wood on shares,
so getting her fuel for winter. I got the team to haul a few
loads one summer, from what was called Coons Canyon,
eighteen miles west of Salt Lake City. It took two days to
make the round trip and hard work and late hours. At that
time of the year the team had to be turned out to feed on
the grass, as no feed of any kind was carried for them. One
day there was twelve or fifteen boys in the canyon cabin,
mostly for the purpose of getting wood. A few had come to
hunt bear for, as some of them said, the canyon seemed to
be full of them.
That morning a boy had seen one not far up the left hand
fork, going up. He had been down to the spring to drink and
his tracks were very plain in the dusty road, and it was said
by some of the boys that, every day they would drag their
load of maple down that road, the next morning there was the
bear tracks where he had come down to the spring and back.
So that evening the whole lot agreed to go after Mr. Bear and
the boy that shot him was to be given ten rounds of ammuni-
tion by each of the other boys.
I and my chum, and bedfellow, talked up a scheme that
we thought might earn us the ammunition promised, if we
could carry it through. This is what we did. Slipping out
unobserved we took a chunk of bacon of about two pounds, a
Ion? twine fish line, a hatchet and our suns, and went up to
the spring. The moon was shining brightlv and we could see
no bear tracks in the road, and knew that bruin had not yet
come for his drink, so we looked around for a place to suit
us for what we wanted to do.
162 PIONEERING THE WEST
We soon decided that a good sized tree close to the road
and about two rods above the spring- would answer our pur-
pose, so we placed my gun up in this tree, muzzle pointed
down, tied it firmly, then one end of the twine to the trigger,
then passed the other end up and over a limb and then down to
the ground, where we drove a hooked stake in the ground and
passed the string under the hook, tied the string around the
bacon so it would lay just outside of the wheel track and
about one foot outside of where the bullet would strike, if we
had made correct calculations.
When this was done we went back to camp and bed. We
had not been missed nor had we been long at the job. The
next morning, we were the first to get up, and went up to the
spring and found that Mr. Bear had been there and pulled at
the bacon and fired the gun. This we could see at the first
glance, as the bear had wallowed in the road and left a good
deal of his blood there and all along the road as he went back
up the canyon.
We took the gun down, pulled up the stake and moved all
signs of a trap, which was not many. Then loaded the gun
and fired it off, loaded again and followed the bloody trail to
where the bear had left the road and taken to the thick
brush. We now supposed he had been stunned by the bullet,
"but by now might bo able to put up a good fight, as we thought
he must be a grizzly, as that was the kind that had been seen
there, but he must be getting weak losing so much blood.
We concluded to return to camp for breakfast, and to re-
port that we had shot and wounded a large bear, and he had
gone into a thick brush, where it was hard to trail him and
thought we would give him time to bleed to death. The other
boys done considerable grumbling, and said if we had not been
in such a hurry, and waited till they were all to.gether they
could have filled him so full of lead that he could not pack
it away, and now, it was chance if we ever found him, even
if he was dead.
Well, we all went on the hunt, but the thorn brush was so
thick that it was very slow work to find the trail and follow
it. In some places we found where the bear had rolled around
quite a space, then it would take a long time to find what
direction he had gone. This went on till after noon, when
ive went to camp for dinner and found there was only enough
provisions left to last two meals. There we were, up against
it, only about half a load of wood ready and eighteen or twen-
ty miles from home.
Well, after holding council as to what we should do, we
decided to get our loads and go home. We did, but not all
PIONEERING THE WEST 163
of the boys. Next week I heard that some one found the bear
dead and a hole down through his neck. They said he must
have been shot while standing up with his back to us. We
let them guess.
24. THE HORNETS.
In 1847, after the Pioneers reached the valley and began
their fort building operations, Father was one of those that
hauled house logs from Red Butte canyon. On one of his
trips, going up the canyon, he saw a little up the road, what
appeared to be a good tree, large enough to cut for saw logs
for timber, and as the other teams were way back, he-
thought he would climb the steep sidehill and take a near view
of it. When he reached it he sounded it with the back of his
axe. Immediately there arose a buzzing sound. He had stirred
up a nest of hornets.
Making a rapid retreat down the hill, followed the biggest
part of the way by a string of hornets, that were trying to get
a line on him, he made his escape without getting hit. He
determined to say nothing to anyone about it. Some few
days after, while going up the canyon, the man driving the
lead team turned out of the road just below this tree. Father
asked him what he was going to do. He said, "Get that tree,
its dead easy. It will roll right down to the road." Father
said, "You had better not, but wait a few days till I get out
what I have chopped, and then I will help you. That tree will
make two good loads." "No," he said, "I can get it alone,"
and started up the hill with his axe.
Father and the other teamsters, driving a little further
up, stopped where they could see the fun. The man reached
the tree, took off his coat and swung his axe into the tree. He
had not chopped out many chips when he was seen to jump
to one side and grab his coat, and fairly fly down to the road.
He was more like a large rock sliding and turning end over
end till he reached his team, which he put on the run up the
canyon till he thought he was safe from a further attack.
When he came up to where Father was he said, "Darn
you, Egan, why didn't you tell me there was hornets near that
tree?" "You never asked me, and I told you I would help
you get it .and so I will." "No, you won't the road is as close
as I want to get to that tree. I have three prettv severe bay-
onet stabs that will take a week to heal Besides, I am not per-
fectly satisfied as to your innocence in this affair."
164 PIONEERING THE WEST
A few days later Father started very early in the morn-
ing for the canyon and on his way up gathered a large armful
of dry grass. When opposite the hornet tree he carried the
grass up the hill and placed it on the hive, after plugging up
with grass the door hole. No hornets had yet came out, as it
was quite cold that early in the morning. After placing the
straw to suit him, placing a few dry limps on top to make
a greater heat, he set fire to the pile and enjoyed his revenge,
while listening to the buzzing death song of the enemy, which
could be heard above the snapping of the fire.
It didn't take long for the whole colony to become good
hornets, and then Father attacked the tree, which made him
two good loads of saw logs. One of which he got home early
in the afternoon. The man that was stung by the hornets
said, "Nice logs, how far up did you go after them?" "These
are a part of the tree you would not have." "What! the hor-
net tree?" "Yes." "How did you manage it?" "Oh,
easy! This morning when it was cool I was afraid the poor
things might suffer, so I gave them a little fire to warm up in.
I think they were satisfied, for not one came out to complain."
"Well, by jinks, you had a joke on the hornets as well as on
25. THE STAMPEDE IS STOPPED.
(As told bj" Father, as near as I can remember.)
We were camped at a large horseshoe bend of the Platt
River. The points of the shoe being about one-half of a mile
apart. The wagons were placed about half way between the
points of the shoe and the cattle and teams were put inside
of the shoe. This arrangement would not call for but few
guards, as the river was not fordable at any place in the bend,
and if the stock attempted to pass out they could be heard at
camp. This was thought to be a very good and safe plan.
It was a very dark night and everything was all right till
a couple of hours before day, when Father was awakened by
the rumbling sound of many animals running. He jumped out
of bed and into his boots, buckled on his belt which carried
his Colts pistol and knife, grabbed his hat and left camp on
the run to head off the frightened animals before they could
pass out of the bend. The night had grown still darker, as it
most always does just before day. It was so dark that you
could not have seen your hand a foot from your face.
Well, when running at top speed he ran up against a
naked Indian breast to breast. He knew it was an Indian,
PIONEERING THE WEST
165
for he felt his naked skin, but no damage was done and the
rebound had instantly separated them. How far, he did not
know. He dropped down as low as possible, but still on his
feet and gun in right hand and knife in left, listened for the
slightest rustle of the grass, not wanting to fire at random for
fear of getting an arrow in return.
Representative Pioneers. Brigham Young: and Brothers.
Lorenzo, 1804; Brighaiu, 1801; Phineas. 1799; Joseph, 1797; John, 1795.
After waiting some time and hearing no sound from his
friend, he side-stepped very carefully for about a rod, and as
he could hear the animals still running, he placed his left hand
on his breast holding his hunting knife point forward, made
a dash ahead, determined that if he ran up against his friend
again there would be something doing. He ran this way until
he saw the glistening waters of the river, which he came near
running into. He now knew that he had turned the animals
back in the bend, where they could run in a circle till tired
enough to stop.
He did not return to camp till after daylight and did
not see*any Indians, but plenty of their tracks in the dusty
road where the train had turned off to make camp. A count
166
PIONEERING THE WEST
proved that no animals had got away and camp moved on.
But just try and imagine the thoughts and feelings after the
contact with the Indian, not knowing of his actions, or when
he! Kvould hear the twang of his bowstring and feel the point
of his arrow. No doubt but the Indian was expecting the
white man to shoot, when he could see by the flash of the gun
where he was and return the fire with greater success than
taking chances. But all's well that ends well.
The place where this happened could be located by reading
Father's journal giving a description of the camps and coun-
try along the Platt River. This was a few years after the
Pioneers.
ll.\v Salt Lake Has Grown.
26. TABY WE-PUP.
In the early days of Grantsville, in Tooele valley, there
was an Indian chief of a band of Go-Shutes, whose country
was from Salt Lake valley on the east, to Granite Rock on
the desert on the west, and from Simpson 's Springs on the
south, to the Great Salt Lake on the north.
This Indian was a great diplomat, and always claimed to
be a good friend of the whites, who were trying to establish
their homes in his country. There were frequent raids on the
settlers' stock, when small bands of twenty or more would be
stolen and driven off, supposedly by hostile Indians. When
this happened a delegation of the whites would visit Tally's
camp, which could always be found within a few miles of
Grantsville.
. At the request of the whites he would agree to send a
party of his own men after the thieves and kill them, and
bring back the stolen animals, but he must be paid for the
PIONEERING THE WEST 167
job by giving him a beef, two or three sacks of flour, five or
six blankets, a stated amount of sugar, coffee, matches, a few
shirts, and always a stated amount of powder, lead and caps.
After the agreement was made, the white men would go
back home feeling sure that Taby would get their stock back
and that the thieves would be punished. They generally did
not have to wait over two weeks before a rumor would come
from Taby's camp, saying the stolen animals would be brought
in the next day, and sure they would, but most always a few
short of the number stolen.
Taby would come from his camp for the promised re-
ward and at the same time would tell of the hard fight his
men had had with the thieves, and how many they had killed
and wounded, and how a few of his own men were slightly
wounded, for which he ought to have more blankets, which of
course the white men couldn't see that way, for a bargain is
a bargain. This kind of business would happen about every
six or eight months and wind up about the same way.
The white men were getting more numerous and their
herds needed more grazing land. So a party of young men
built a few cabins in Skull Valley over the first range of
mountains west of Grantsville and made it their business to
herd the stock for the settlers. These young men were most,
always in the saddle, watching their stock and exploring the
country west of them, where they found numerous signs of
where bands of stock at some time had been driven out on
the desert, and some places back again, where Taby had
brought them home.
Well, the time came that the herd boys missed about forty
head of horned stock, and four or five of the boys went in
search of them. In circling around they soon found the. trail
leading west, and they could find but three pony tracks, so
they supposed there were only three thieves that was doing
the stealing.
Preparing themselves with a couple of canteens of water
each, four of the boys determined to see if it was possible to
save the animals. They started on the trail from Cedar Moun-
tains, which is on the east edge of the desert. A due west
line from there, of seventy-five or eighty miles, is a patch of
ground of about a quarter section, and a little higher than the
level of the desert. Near one end is a small spring of brakish
water. The next nearest water is twenty miles further west.
The next morning about daylight the boys were getting
quite close to this first water place. They could see cattle
scattered all over it. and when they got on the higher ground
168
PIONEERING THE WEST
the} 7 could also see three Indians just starting from the spring
going- west. They gave them some scare, besides wounding
one of their ponies. The boys, after resting till the next day,
afternoon, made their way back home with all of their ani-
mals but one. That the Indians had killed for grub when they
stopped at the spring.
This put an end to old Taby's double-faced transactions.
It was afterwards learned that he was the father of the whole
stealing operations, but the friendly Deep Creek Indians were
afraid of him, and did not dare to tell of his doings till the old
man got his last call.
Then it was found out that when he wanted a new
blanket or two and some provisions, he would send some of
his men to steal and drive off a band of stock, and after a
bargain was made send a rumor out and have them brought
back, that is, what they did not kill for food, or the hides for
footwear, or to make ropes and lassos. There probably are
some people now living that may remember old Taby We-Pup,
but that never knew of his doings.
Jebow and Squaw.
Early Salt Lake Character.
PART III.
PIONEERING: SALT LAKE to CALIFORNIA.
SEC. I. ROUTE SOUTH AND NORTH.
27. A DIARY.
By Howard Egan, of His Trip in 1849-50, From Fort Utah
(Provo City) to California, With the Distance, Water,
Feed and Suitable Camp Grounds, Numbered
From 1 to 89, Etc. Kept for a
Future Traveling Guide.
Sunday, November 18th, 1849. We started from Fort
Utah in company with Brothers Granger and Hills, having
three wagons and fifteen head of animals and forty souls, for
California. It stormed for three days previous to our starting,
which has made the roads very bad. After traveling seven
and a half miles we came to a small spring branch, and we
traveled up a little further and camped at Hobble Creek
(*now Springyille), which is a good camp ground with feed
and wood in plenty.
Monday, 19th. The morning was warm and pleasant.
Brother Orlando Hovey started in company with us this
morning, having a wagon, four yoke of cattle and four men.
Our company numbered fourteen men and boys. We traveled
eight miles and came to a creek about ten feet wide (* Span-
ish Fork), which is a good camp ground, with wood in plenty.
We came nine miles and camped at a small spring branch
(*near Salem), where the feed was good and plenty of willows
for fuel.
Tuesday, 20th. This morning we had a severe storm of
rain and sleet, which made the roads very bad. This afternoon
the road is much better. We passed several good camp
grounds. No. 6 (*Pavson) is a beautiful stream, there being
two branches with wood in plenty. All the streams and
170 PIONEERING THE WEST
springs up to No. 10 were good camps. We came twenty-three
miles and camped on No. 10, where there are plenty of wil-
lows. There is a branch of this creek a quarter of a mile
ahead.
Wednesday, 21st. This morning Brother Badger and
Brother Burnett came to our camp with a letter from Salt
Lake. We traveled twelve miles over a bad road and came to
No. 11, a spring at the right of the road, which is a good
camp ground, with plenty of grass and sagebrush and plenty
of wood one mile away. We came five miles to No. 12, a
spring branch, and camped. The feed -was good and wood in
plenty. This is the last camp in the Utah Valley.
Thursday, 22nd. Last night it commenced snowing and
continued until this morning. Today we crossed the dividing
ridge betAveen the Utah and the Sevier Valleys. We traveled
twelve miles and camped at the Sevier River, No. 13. The
river is about four rods wide and three and one-half feet deep,
with the south bank steep. The feed was good, and plenty of
wood and willows for camp' use.
Friday, 23rd. The morning was pleasant and we traveled
twelve miles over a beautiful road to camp 14, where feed and
water was plenty. In the dry season you will have to go two
miles east, where there is a good spring. We traveled four-
teen miles and camped at No. 15, a spring, with feed good and
plenty of cedar. The road is good between the Sevier and
this camp, with the exception of about four miles.
' Saturday, 24th. The morning was pleasant, and we trav-
eled three miles and came to No. 16, a good camp, with plenty
of willows. We went on two miles further and came to No.
-17, a creek, with plenty of wood. We traveled ten miles and
came to No. 18, a spring, and good camp, with plenty of wil-
lows. We then came six miles and camped at No. 19, a brack-
ish spring and poor camp ground, with no wood and less sage,
and feed very short.
Sunday, 25th. This day's travel has been over a crooked,
rough and stony road. We traveled two miles and camped at
No. 20, a spring branch, with wood and feed in plenty.
Monday, 26th. The weather was very cold. We traveled
six miles and came to No. 21, a small creek, a good camp
ground, plenty of wood and feed. We traveled fourteen miles
and camped at No. 22; plenty of wood and feed short. We
are now traveling in company, with six horse teams and twen-
ty-eight men.
Tuesday, 27th. We traveled five miles and came to a
small creek, No. 23, a good camn ground, plentv of feed and
willows. We came a quarter mile and crossed No. 24, a good
PIONEERING THE WEST 171
camp ground; a half mile further we came to Beaver Creek,
No. 25. It commenced snowing and we camped. This stream
is about one rod wide; wood and feed plenty, a beautiful
camping place. Our company is now organized. H. Egan is
captain, and Brother Orlando Hovey has joined our company.
Brothers Granger and Egan take his provisions.
Wednesday, 28th. Last night we had a severe snowstorm.
We traveled about seven miles down the Beaver and found the
road was not passable. We then traveled seven miles east,
close to the foot of the mountain, where we struck a road that
bore south through the mountains. We traveled about four
miles and found good feed and plenty of wood, no water. We
traveled eighteen miles, but were only eight miles from where
we camped last night.
Thursday, 29th. The morning was pleasant, and we trav-
eled about thirteen miles and camped at a spring, the feed be-
ing good and plenty of sage. Ten miles of the road today was
through a rough mountain country and very rocky. Brother
John Hills broke his wagon tire in two places. Spring No.
26, where we are camped, is about one mile from the road
and about three miles from where you first enter the Little
Salt Lake Valley.
Friday, 30th. We traveled ten miles and came to No. 27,
a creek with plenty of willows and feed. It is a good camp
ground. We came six miles and camped at No. 28, a creek
about one rod wide, with plenty of wood and feed. The road
has been very good today. We are in sight of the Little Salt
Lake. The weather is warm and pleasant.
DECEMBER, 1849.
Saturday, 1st. We traveled six and a quarter miles and
came to creek No. 29. It is a good camp ground, with plenty
of wood and feed. We caught up with Mr. - 's company
at this creek. He laid up to do some blacksmithing, and
kindly offered to have our wagon tire welded, and any other
work we wanted.
Sunday, 2nd. We traveled four miles and came to No.
30, a spring and good camp ground. Then we came seven
miles to- Muddy creek No. 31, a bad creek to cross; wood
plenty, feed short. We traveled six miles and came to a
spring branch, feed and wood plenty. We met four men be-
longing to Captain Smith's company, who had lost their road
and had been living on mule flesh for sixteen days.
Monday, 3rd. We traveled sixteen miles and camped at
No. 33, a spring branch; wood plenty and feed short.
172 PIONEERING T H E W E S T
Tuesday, 4th. Last night it commenced snowing, and the
morning was cold and stormy. We traveled thirteen miles and
came to No. 34, a spring branch, with feed and willows plenty.
We traveled nine miles and camped at No. 35, a spring
branch ; feed and wood plenty.
Wednesday, 5th. This morning was cold and stormy. We
came eleven miles to No. 36, a spring branch. The feed Avas
short, but wood plentv. We came about three miles and
camped in a valley. The feed and wood was plenty, but no
water. The storm was very severe, and the last end of the
road very bad.
Ihursday, 6th. Last night we experienced the hardest
storm we have had since we started. We traveled about eight
miles over rough roads to Santa Clara. We came about two
miles further and camped near the Santa Clara, where feed
was poor, but wood was plenty. It has stormed all day.
Friday, 7th. The morning was very cold. We traveled
three miles down the Santa Clara, where one of my wag'on
tires broke. Brother Granger unloaded his wagon and went
back with me to Mr. - 's camp, about thirty miles. We
were gone three days, the weather being very cold.
Saturday, 8th. The weather was extremely cold, being
12 degrees below zero.
Sunday, 9th. This morning we arrived at our camp. The
wagons had gone ahead. The weather was still cold and feed
very poor.
Monday, 10th. We traveled ten miles down the Santa
Clara, the road being very hard. We came a mile and a half
and camped at a spring, plenty of wood but feed very poor.
Tuesday, llth. The morning was cold, but we traveled
about fifteen miles over a very rough road, snow being about
one foot deep. We stopped two hours and fed. The feed is
very good up to the right of the road in a ravine from where
we stopped. We traveled fifteen miles further and camped
on the Rio Virgin, plenty of wood, but feed very poor. There
is some little bunch grass one mile up the hill.
Wednesday, 12th. We traveled down the Virgin over a
heavy sandy road through the most barren, desolate country I
have ever seen. We came about eight miles and camped.
Plenty of willows and some salt grass. The Virgin is about
two rods wide here.
Thursday, 13th. The weather was warm and pleasant.
We traveled about eighteen miles down the Virgin. The road
was sandy and we crossed the river ten times. The fords were
good and there was plenty of willows and some little feed,
the first we have seen since we started this morning.
PIONEERING THE WEST 173
Friday, 14th. The morning was cloudy with some rain.
We traveled about twelve miles down the Virgin River. The
road Avas sandy and we crossed the river four or five times,
then turned short to the right and went over a very heavy
sandy, crooked road. We came about six miles and found
some feed to the left of the road on the side of the mountain.
Saturday, 15th. It was pleasant weather. Brother J.
Bill's team gave out and he left his wagon and put his load
in different wagons. We traveled a half mile and camped at
the foot of a very steep mountain that we had to cross. We
took out part of the loads and doubled teams, and with a rope
250 feet long to the top of the mountain and twenty men to
assist the teams we got up. We came five miles and bated,
and then came to the Muddy. The feed was good, but wood
scarce. Part of the road was very sandy.
Sunday, 16th. The weather was pleasant, and we re--
mained in camp. We saw T a number of Indians in the evening.
Monday, 17th. About noon today we moved camp up the
creek about three miles and came to a river. It is called fifty-
five miles to the next water after we leave here. The weather
is rainy and the roads are bad.
Tuesday, 18th. It has rained all night without any
ceasing, which makes the roads very bad. We remained in
camp today, and it has continued raining nearly all day. Last
night the guards fired at what we supposed to be an Indian
on the opposite side of the creek. It is with difficulty that we
can get our animals to feed, it is so rainy.
Wednesday, 19th. It was clear, pleasant weather, and we
traveled ten miles, finding some feed, we bated. For half this
morning we had to help the teams with ropes made fast to
the wagons. The road then was gravel and sandy. We came
about eight miles, the road being very bad. The animals sank
to their knees every step. We found some water in holes and
some bunch grass.
Thursday, 20th. We traveled ten miles and found some
feed on the sand bluffs. The road w y as much better, and we
came twenty-five miles. The last three or four miles of the
road was very bad. We arrived at the springs at 2 in the
morning. Loot and Parks left their wagons, and Brother
Granger left his and took Foot's wagon, it being lighter. The
feed is scarce, it being buried over with sand. The wood also
is scarce and the water is milk warm. There has been five
animals and three wagons left since we started.
Friday, 21st. This day we remained in camp. Mr. Noyle
left his wagon and packed. We left our wagons and took his,
it being lighter. The weather is warm and pleasant.
174 PIONEERING THE WEST
Saturday, 22nd. Today we moved camp up the branch
about three miles, the road being very bad and steep. There
is plenty of feed.
Sunday, 23rd. We traveled about eighteen miles, part of
the road being- rough and stony, and camped near a beautiful
spring branch. There was plenty of bunch grass on the
mountain and plenty of wood. Two of our company were run
"by some Indians, who were behind.
Monday, 24th. About 2 o'clock this morning our animals
were fired at by a party of Indians, which caused them to
scatter. They ran off, but two of our men pursued them so
close they got all but three belonging to Mr. Carr, which the
Indian? killed and quartered. One of the three was shot four
times. Here I left the wagons and took Mr. Carr's. We trav-
eled four miles and came to a spring branch, a poor camp,
Tmt we went on eight miles to a spring, where there was plen-
ty of feed. We then came about twenty-five miles over a
rough road and camped at a spring, the water being bad and
a poor camp ground.
Tuesday, 25th. We started at daylight this morning with
the intention of stopping at a spring five miles ahead. After
traveling about eight miles we stopped at last and found that
the road ran about five miles east of the spring. Some of the
company had started without eating their breakfast or taking
in water. We came about twenty-five miles and camped at
a spring, where the feed was nearly eat off, but the water was
good and plenty of wood. We arrived here about half past 4
o'clock in the evening.
Wednesday, 26th. We remained in camp today. Mr.
Carr's horse that was shot by the Indians was left gt this
place, he being unable to travel.
Thursday, 27th. The weather was pleasant. We found a
man here with an arrow stuck in his side, and saw fresh In-
dian tracks. One of the guard saw an Indian in the brush
just before daylight and fired at him. We started at 3 o'clock
this afternoon and came ten miles, part of the road being
sandy, and part of it run over a low, wet bottom. We crossed
a small stream several times, but the water was not good. At
7.30 we camped at a spring, where the feed and water was
good and wood plentiful.
Friday, 28th. We started at 3 o'clock and came thirteen
miles over a bad road and camped at spring No. 48, at the left
of the road, where the water was brackish, poor feed and
brush for fire. We arrived in camp about 9 o'clock. It rained
about three hours this evening.
PIONEERING THE WEST 175
Saturday, 29th. We started at 8 o'clock, and came twelve
miles over a sandy road. We stopped to rest, but there Avas
no feed. We came twelve miles more and stopped and got
supper. We came twenty-five miles and camped at spring
No. 49. There was no feed and the water was brackish, the
latter part of the road being good. We arrived here at 4
o'clock in the morning, but some of the company did not ar-
rive until after daylight. We passed a number of cattle today
and some wagons that were left.
Sunday, 30th. We remained in camp today. There was
a little coarse bunch grass one-half mile west near the road.
We found three wagons with nearly all their loading in, left
by some of the company ahead.
Monday, 31st. We started this afternoon at 4 o'clock,
came ten miles and stopped to rest, the road being sandy and
uphill. We traveled all night and arrived at the Mohave at
8 o'clock in the morninsr. We had come forty miles.
TUESDAY, JANUARY 1, 1850.
Tuesday, 1st. We arrived in camp today, part of the
company coming up about noon. There is some pretty good
feed about a mile across the river. There is good water and
plenty of wood. We have seen several wagons that were left
and a number of dead cattle. One of the company found a
mule here in pretty good order. Most of our company are
short of provisions. We divided with them all we had to spare.
Wednesday, 2nd. We started at 10 o'clock and came
about fourteen miles, crossed the river and came three miles
and camped. The first ten or twelve miles the road was sandy
and ran a half to a mile from the river. The feed is good
and plenty of wood. There was a company camped here last
night. Their fires were burning when we arrived. Some of
our packers remained in camp, among whom were Parke,
Neagle and Fair.
Thursday, 3rd. We started at daylight this morning and
came about seven miles, where we found Captain Davis' com-
pany, as they had laid up for the dav. I started for the set-
tlement in company with Mr. Loot. We traveled about twelve
miles over a sandy road and came to the river, traveled four
miles further and stopped for the night. The feed was good
and plenty of wood.
Friday, 4th. We started at daylight and came about fif-
teen miles and stopped to feed, then we came twenty-five
miles to Cahoon Pass. The latter part of the road was very /
rough. We camped at a spring where the feed was all eaten t/
out, but there was plenty of wood. This afternoon it com-
menced raining and continued without any cessation all night.
176 PIONEERING THE WEST
Saturday, 5th. We started this morning at 4 o'clock.
The water was rushing through the pass about three feet deep.
It was with great difficulty that we could get along. Some
places the water would roll our horses over. We came fif-
teen miles and found a wagon and camp there. We stopped
to feed, after which we came fourteen miles and stopped at a
ranch. It rained nearly all day.
Sunday, 6th. We camped at William's Ranch. Here I
found Brothers Rich and Hunt and some eighteen or twenty of
the brethren all well. This is a beautiful valley. The hills
look as green as they would in Salt Lake Valley in May.
Monday, 7th. The weather was pleasant and the breth-
ren were all preparing to start.
Tuesday, 8th. It is still pleasant weather. Brother Rich
is procuring wheat and getting it gTound for our company.
Brother Stoddard came in the evening and reported the com-
pany ten miles from here.
Wednesday, 9th. The weather is fair. Our company ar-
rived about noon, all well.
Thursday, 10th. The two ox teams belonging to Brother
Rich's company started this afternon. We spent this day in
getting our grinding done. The distance to this settlement is
about 769 miles from the Utah Lake.
Friday, llth. We commenced our journey again today,
and came ten miles and camped with the two ox teams be-
longing to Brother Rich's company. The feed is much better
here than it is at William's Ranch. It commenced raining this
evening. We are camped near the stream, where there is
plenty of wood.
Saturday, 12th. We remained in camp today. Brothers
Rich and Hunt came up this evening, and we organized.
J. Hunt was chosen captain.
Sunday, 13th. We came ten miles and camped near a
stream, where there was feed and wood plenty. The forenoon
was rainy, which made the roads bad, but the afternoon was
fair.
Monday, 14th. The weather was pleasant and we came
about seven miles arid stopped to feed at the intersection of
St. Gubrith, which is a most beautiful location. We found
plentv of oranges on the trees. The Mission has been partly
deserted since the move. Some of the fields are fenced with
pricklev pears that are planted in straight rows and grow
from five to twenty-five feet high. We traveled three miles
and camped near a small stream, but there was no wood.
PIONEERING THE WEST
177
Prickley Pear or Cactus used for fencing.
Tuesday, 15th. We came about four miles and camped
near the stream about a mile and a half from the City or
Pueblo de Los Angeles.
Wednesday, 16th. We remained in camp today, and laid
in our groceries. Brother Davis and some two or three others
arrived from the Tormage Train, and reported them in dis-
tress, and they sent in for assistance.
Thursday, 17th. We came twelve miles and camped near
a small stream and a deserted ranch, where there was good
feed.
Friday, 18th. The weather was pleasant this morning,
and we killed a heifer. Brothers Rich, Hunt and some others
are preparing to pack and go ahead of the wagons. The
brethren were called together, who were to remain with the
wagons and Howard Ecran was elected captain by a unanimous
vote of the company. We traveled twelve miles and camped
near a spring, where there was plenty of feed and wood.
Saturday, 19th. Wo traveled about twelve miles today
and camped near a spring, there being plenty of wood and
feed. The roads today have been rough and crooked. Broth-
178 PIONEERING THE WEST _
ers Rich and Hunt let me have $53.00 this morning for the
use of the company. The weather is beautiful for this season
of the year.
Sunday, 20th. We traveled about fourteen miles and
camped near a small stream in an oak grove, where the feed
was good. The pack company left us today and went ahead.
We passed several small streams that would answer for camp
'
pleasant.
Monday, 21st. We traveled about twenty-one miles and
camped under the St. Altave. There were four or five ranches
in sight, but poor feed, though plenty wood. The head of the
river is about one hundred yards wide. We came down one
of the steepest mountains today that I ever saw a wagon run
over.
Tuesday, 22nd. Last night we had a heavy rain, but the
morning was pleasant. We traveled about six miles and
stopped to feed. We then came about three miles .and camped.
There we inspected the Mission Buenentrance, near a stream
within a quarter mile of the sea shore. There was plenty of
feed and wood. The road has been good today. Our camp
numbered 35 men, 1 woman, 20 horses and mules, 20 head of
oxen and 5 wagons.
Wednesday, 23rd. It was pleasant weather and we trav-
eled about sixteen miles, most of the way down the beach. The
roads were rough. We camped near a small stream in a grove
where the feed was good. This is a beautiful camping place.
About tAvo miles back there is a creek and a good camp ground.
Thursday, 24th. Last night it commenced rainins: and
continued without any cessation all day today, so we remained
in camp.
Friday, 25th. It rained all night last night, and cleared
about 9 o'clock this morning. At 12 o'clock we proceeded on
our journey. The roads were bad and we came about six
miles and camped near a stream, where wood and feed was
plentv. We passed several good camping places.
Saturday, 26th. It was pleasant weather and Ave came
about five miles and stopped to feed. One mile further we
passed St. Abantres and traded one yoke of our cattle that
were broke doAvn, paying $10.00 to boot. We came six miles
and camped in a grove near a creek, Avhere there Avas first rate
feed. The road has been very hard today.
Sunday, 27th. It was fine weather and AVC came between
nine . and ten miles, the road being very bad. We crossed
seven creeks, all of which axe good camp grounds, there being
plenty of Avood and feed. Our camp ground this evening is a
PIONEERING THE \VKST 179
beautiful place on the seashore, and the best place we have
had since we started, and a beautiful grove to camp in.
Monday, 28th. It was fine weather, and we traveled
about eleven miles. The road has not been so wet today, but
very hilly. We camped near a spring branch, where there was
plenty of feed and wood. We are within a half mile of the
sea.
Tuesday, 29th. We traveled about five miles and turned
up a ravine, the road being very rough and rocky. It is about
three miles to a ranch. We traveled about eight miles further
and camped near a creek.
Wednesday, 30th. Last evening we killed a beef. The fore
part of the night was rainy. This morning five head of our
cattle were missing. Most of our camp have been out hunting
but could not find them. We got back to the camp about 10
o'clock and learned the cattle were about four miles from the
mission.
FEBRUARY, 1850.
Friday, 1st. We moved down across the River St. Yuness,
which is about fifty yards wide. The mission of the same name
is about half a mile from the river. The road we passed in
the forenoon was very good. We crossed a very steep moun-
tain, and from there to the ranch I rode with the company.
About a mile past the ranch there is plenty of good wood and
water; feed not so good. We traveled about eighteen miles
today.
Saturday, 2nd. It was pleasant weather. We traveled
about sixteen miles and came to a river about six rods wide,
came about two miles further and camped near a small
stream, where there was plenty of feed, but wood scarce. The
last two or three miles of the road was very bad.
Sunday, 3rd. The weather was pleasant, and we came
about three miles to a ranch. The road was bad in many
places. We traveled twelve miles and camped in a valley near
a spring branch, where there was plenty of wood and feed.
Monday, 4th. Tt was a dandy morninsr and we traveled
about one and a half miles over a very hard road and came to
St. Luke - , a mission and a store. We traveled up the
stream about six and a half miles and camped. "Most of the
road ran through a canyon. This is a beautiful can;pinr place.
The feed is very good and plenty of wood. We have traveled
about eighteen miles today. All of the company are well ex-
cept Brother John Bills, who if- very sick.
Tuesday, 5th. The weather is pleasant. We went about
two miles up the canyon and crossed over the mountain. The
180 PIONEERING THE WEST
road was pretty good and we came about four miles to the old
mission. We have had very good weather today and have
traveled about twenty miles. Two miles back we crossed the
o --._ i -> T ,-i % i : . > ^, . i. O:CL-, , ,T^ -<--;/! * 4- -,-.-, >,Vj
and store we purchased two beeves and paid $25.00 for them.
Wednesday, 6th. Last night we camped under a white
oak tree that measured twenty-two feet in circumference and
the boughs measured 495 feet in circumference. The weather
was fine and we traveled four and a half miles and came to
the St. Miguel Mission, which is deserted. We came eight
miles further to a large river about one hundred yards wide,
which we crossed and camped, there being plenty of feed and
wood.
Thursday, 7th. The morning was cloudy and we came
four miles to a river about fifty yards wide, traveled up the
river about eight miles and camped at a deserted ranch. We
crossed the river and traveled four miles further up the river,
seven miles to a ranch, Las Hoetis, and camped, making twen-
ty-three miles today. The feed is very short here, but plenty
of wood. We have been traveling through a very poor coun-
try today. Two deer have been killed.
Friday, 8th. It was fine weather and we came about
eight miles and crossed the mountain and traveled down a
beautiful valley. There w y as plenty of grass, but no water.
We came ten miles to a deserted ranch, one mile further we
came to the river Monterey and camped. We traveled about
nineteen miles today, and the roads were first rate, with feed
and water in plenty.
Saturday, 9th. We came three miles to an Indian ranch,
and nine miles further to a large river; eight miles to the Mis-
sion Soladen. Six miles from there we crossed the River Mon-
terey. By raising our wagon boxes we got over without any
difficulty. We traveled about twenty-one miles today, the
roads being good, and there was plenty of wood and feed
tonight.
Sunday, 10th. 1 The weather was fine, and we traveled a
half mile and came to a ranch. The road leaves the river and
runs parallel with it from three to five miles to a ranch to
the left. Saw several ducks along the river. We came about
twenty miles and camped in a grove, where there wa . plenty
of feed, but water scarce.
Monday, llth. We traveled three miles and came to a
ranch, then came fourteen miles over a very rough road, and
from there on to San Juan Mission. We then came one mile
further and camped.
Tuesday, 12th. Last evening I received a letter that Broth-
PIONEERING THE WEST 181
er Rich left at the mission, dated the 10th. one day ahead of
us. Brothers Staden, Edward and myself started about 10
o'clock at night and found Brother Rich and company one mile
from San Jose, about 8 o'clock this morning. The distance
being forty-five miles. We made arrangements to get provi-
sions.
Wednesday, 13th. We sent Franklin Edwards back to
meet the company and stop the ox teams and send the other
teams up after the provisions. Brothers Rich, Pratt, Hunt and
Rollane started for San Francisco.
Thursday, 14th. About noon the horse teams arrived,
loaded up and started out a mile and camped.
Friday, 15th. It was fine weather, and we traveled sev-
enteen miles and came to the company. The brethren killed a
heifer and several deer.
Saturday, 16th. We started back about fourteen miles ou
the road, where we came to Gillar's ranch. We then turned to
the right and came four miles on the road to the Marapars
diggins, part of the road being very wet.
Sunday, 17th. We came six miles to Patgher's ranch. I
rode ahead. We traveled ten miles up the Patgher's Pass and
camped in a beautiful valley.
Monday, 18th. The morning was cloudv. anil we traveled
about two miles and came to the foot of the mountain. Here
we had to double teams for about two miles. We came about
ten miles and camped in the Jousain Valley. The roads have
been verv hilly and hard to travel. There is plenty of feed
and wood.
Tuesday, 19th. Last ni<rht we had a light rain. This
morning Brother John Bills was much worse. The company
remained in camp and about 10 o'clock this eveninsr Brother
Bills died. We moved camp about five miles.
Wednesday, 20th. We traveled twenty miles and came to
the San Jouaquin River, took our wagons apart and crossed
them in a whale boat, for which we had to pav $87.50.
Thursday, 21st. We traveled about eighteen miles up the
Mercelda River nnd camped in a bend of the river, where the
feed was good. The roads were sandy.
Friday, 22nd. This morning six of our companv went
ahead to explore. We traveled about wentv miles and crossed
the Mercelda River and camped.
Saturday, 23rd. We traveled about ten miles and stopped
to feed. Then sent four of our companv out to explore. We
traveled about four miles and camped near a spring branch.
Here this journal or diary breaks off abruptlv, except
places and distances are given, which is of no interest now.
182 PIONEERING THE WEST
*At this point it may be well to review some of the facts
in relation to the early settlement of California wherein Mor-
mons had some hand. The ship Brooklyn sailed from New
York with 235 Saints aboard in February, 1846. They stopped
at Honolulu on the 26th of June and arrived at Yerba Buena
(now San Francisco), Calif omia, July 29, and soon commenced
agricultural work.
The Mormon Battalion, that Father had returned from as
they left Santa Fe, reached Pueblo de los Angles March 23,
1847, where they were ordered to erect a fort on a hill nearby.
They were honorably discharged July 16. A number of them
were employed by Capt. John A. Sutter to dig- a mill race
in September where gold was discovered in January, 1848,
which excited the whole country and brought thousands across
the plains.
Upper California, which included Utah, was ceded to the
United States by Mexico in February, 1848. In the middle of
June, 1849, parties from the east began to arrive in Salt Lake
on their way to California gold mines, and the people were
much enriched trading with them. Father and others returned
in the fall of 1850. Missionaries were sent there at different
times and quite a number were sent to make a settlement, which
was finallv abandoned.
28. "TECUMSEE."
I will now try to tell you how Father got the Indian,
named by him, Tecumsee. But first I will say that Father was
employed by some Salt Lake merchants to travel through the
settlements both north and south in the winter time, buying up
all the extra animals, cows and steers, that the people would
sell. They were to keep these animals till spring brought the
grass up, so he could collect them as he came along on his
start for California.
He had been very successful in buying, and when he had
gone as far north as Malad river, where he camped for a few
days, he had a bunch of about fifteen hundred head and a train
of fifteen wagons, a hundred horses and mules, and thirty-five
men, all to be looked after and taken care of till they arrived
in California.
It used to be Father ? s plan, after he had got the camp
under way in the morning, and when the stock were well strung
out, he would select a good position and count the whole bunch,
and if there were any missing he would send men out to hunt
them up and bring them in, and sometimes they were not suc-
cessful in finding them. If the lost animals were very few, it
PIONEERING THE WEST 18S
would not pay to lay over to hunt them, but if there was a
bunch lost, the train would camp at the first water until the
stock was found or accounted for.
They had traveled past Promontory Point and camped
near Sage, or Indian creek, about sundown. There is a narrow,
sharp, rocky ridge makes down from the mountains on the
north of the road, and the camp was made just after rounding
this rocky point. F^tVr had been, with some others, back to
look for missing animals, and as they were nearing the camp
he gave his horse to one of the men to lead to camp and take
care of, as he wished to take a little foot exercise.
He climbed the steep ridge a few hundred yards from the
point near the road, and he knew that the camp was close to
the opposite side of where he was climbing up, and when he
reached the top would have a fine view of the surrounding
country. When he reached the top he saw the camp as he ex-
pected and the stock spreading out to feed.
On looking down the ridge the way he expected to go to
camp, he saw what he first thought to be the tail feathers of
a bird, but in lookimz a little closer with his field glass he saw
that there was an Indian under those feathers, who seemed to
be trying to keep out of sight of anyone in the camp, and at
the same time get close enough to some of the animals that
were grazing near to stick an arrow in them (an Indian trick
to get the carcass after the train had moved on).
Father was directly above the Indian, and the Indian be-
tween him and the camp. Father lost no time in getting within
a few yards of the fellow, and just as the Indian was preparing
to shoot the nearest steer, Father gave a ''Hugh!" The Indian
turned round and faced a sixshooter, dropped his arrows and
said "Hugh! Hugh!" Father placed his sixshooter in his scab-
bard and motioned the Indian to pick up his arrows; then mo-
tioned him to go down t^ camp, where Father had him sit down
by a campfire and placed a guard over him, gave him a good
supper, and then blankets to sleep on; and made to understand
that he must stay there till sunrise next morning or the guard
would shoot him. The next morning the Indian was given all
he could eat, and some flour and bacon for his squaw Cif he had
one) and told to go.
Just before 12 o'clock noon, as Father was counting the
animals as they passed along by a certain point of the road,
he chanced to look around and saw the Indian of the night be-
fore, witli two others, standing near watching Father. Father
went on with his count till all the cattle had passed. After
summing up his count he found that there were five or six ani-
mals missing. He turned to the Indians and held up six finders,
184
PIONEERING THE WEST
then pointed to the cattle, then motioned his hands over the
country; the Indians uttered a sigh and soon disappeared.
Father, contrary to his usual practice, did not send any men
to find the lost animals. He made camp about 3 or .4 o 'clock.
WashiUee. Peace Chief; near relation to Tccumsee.
PIONEERING THE WEST 185
About sundown there could be seen a cloud of dust coming
down the road. It might be a pack train, for it was coming
pretty fast. It was only Father's Indians bringing in the lost
animals, but instead of only five or six, they had brought in
fifteen head. Some of them did not have the company brand,
but were animals that had been lost by other trains or immi-
grants.
The three Indians did not leave again until they had passed
over the line of their country, which was along the Humboldt
river, and Father placed no white men to herd and guard the
stock, the Indians doing this from sundown to sunrise. Father
had killed three head for beef, giving one to the Indians, and
there had been two or three poisoned, and two or three drowned
in the spring holes in Thousand Spring Valley, and at his last
count in California he had one animal more than he left Malad
Valley with. (So much for being kind to Indians.)
The next year as Father was making another trip with
stock for the California market, about the same place, the In-
dians came again and did the same as the year before, leaving
as usual, except Tecumsee (as Father called him). (That was
the Indian Father held up on the rocky ridge.) He did not
leave when the rest did, but kept as close to Father as he could
day and night.
In California he had to do a good deal of traveling, and
when stopping at a hotel it was always understood that Tecum-
see slept on the floor by his bedroom door. One night when
thev were thus fixed. Father heard a slight sound of someone
walking in the room. The moon made it light enough to see
farely well. He saw the Indian come to the chair on which
Father had placed his clothes, and proceeded to go through his
pockets. Father said nothing about it, and next morning found
that the Indian had only taken a few dimes, leaving all money
larger than that. After that Father would only leave a dime
or two, Avhich were sure to be gone in the morning.
As lie had IK-MT seen or heard of the Indian buying any-
thing, he wondered why lie would steal money and not spend
it. So one day Father went to a store Avith the Indian and
gave him to understand that lie was going to buy a hat and a
shirt for him. After the things were fitted on, Father in pay-
ing for them pretended he did not have money enough. The
Indian went down in his own pockets and brought out a rag
in which were tied up two or three dollars in dimes. He untied
the bunch and slid it alone: the counter to Father to take out
what was needed to fill the bill.
One day, in Sacramento, Father wanted the Indian to wear
shoes while in the city, so took him to ;i shop and got a pair
186
PIONEERING THE WEST
fitted to him; then when they came to pay for them it took
money from both of them. An hour after that they were walk-"
ing down the street, the Indian trailing behind. Father chanced
to look back; the Indian was there all right, hat in hand, shoes
slung across his arms, eating candy and taking in all the sights
that were to be seen from the sidewalk.
As a general thing he tried to imitate Father's walk and
actions, which caused many a smile among spectators and many
a hearty laugh from Father 's acquaintances. He could not bear
to wear shoes long at a time, when they were new, and off they
would come, no matter where he was ; the same with his hat.
Well, the old fellow was at one time the "war chief" of
the "To-So-Witch Band" of the " Sho-Sho-nees Indians." He
came with Father to Salt Lake and never went back to his tribe.
NOTE. To Wm. M. Egan: Probably you know what be-
came of him. I don't remember. He was sometimes at Moth-
er's, and at other times I have seen him at different mail sta-
tions. H. R. Egan.
*I remember him well. He used to sleep in our back kitch-
en, and do chores, and was quite an old man then, but I do not
remember about his death. W. M. Egan.
Kanosb Pavant Chief.
PIONEERING THE WEST 187
SEC. II. STORIES OF TRAVEL AND HAPPENINGS.
29. "INDIAN SNAKE BATING."
When Father was returning from one of his trips to Cali-
fornia by the southern route, ray brother Erastus was in the
company, and from some of them I got this: We were in the
desert and had made camp near a small spring. We had noth-
ing to make a fire with but scrub greasewood. We had our fire
made and were getting our supper about ready, when there ap-
peared a couple of the Desert Indians, clad in their Sunday at-
tire, which consisted of a grass string around their loins. A
kind of fringe about eight or ten inches long hung from the
string clear around them. This was all of their covering except
a mass of coal black hair on their heads about the size of a
bushel basket.
They came up close to the fire and stood like posts, but
watching every move of the whites. One of them had a live
rattlesnake which he held by the tail, letting the snake hang
down very close to his leg, but paying no attention to the
squirming reptile whatever. This put the spectators on their
nerves. They said nothing, but expected to see the snake at
any moment bury his fangs in the Indian's leg. After the
whites had removed their cooked supper from the fire, the In-
dian that held the snake kicked, with his bare feet, the embers
together, and then laid the snake on the coals. It crawled off.
He picked it up and put it on again. This was repeated several
times before the snake died; and when it was roasted enough
to satisfy the Indian, he took it off the fire and pinched its
head off with his fingers and threw it away; then broke off a
section of the body and commenced eating it like a boy would
a carrot. The two made short work of the snake and licked
their fingers as if they liked it, and I suppose they did.
At another camp, while they were cooking a meal, three
or four of the same kind of Indians came up and stood watch-
ing the cooking arrangements. Father told Erastus not to no-
tice them or they might take too much liberty. When the meal
was all ready and spread on the blanket, all but the frying pan
of gravy, Erastus was told to get it off the fire and bring it
to the table. He lifted it off the fire. The handle was hot and
burned his fingers, so he laid it down to get a better hold. As
he did so he looked at one of the Indians and grinned. That
188 PIONEERING THEWEST
was enough. They all jumped at once around the pan, and
bending their forefingers like a fishhook, dived into that gravy,
and as hot as it was they soon cleaned it all up, and the white
people had no sop that meal just on account of the grin on the
boy 's face.
30. THE SLEEPING MULE (FATHER'S).
On Father's quick trip to California, straight across the
great American desert, his rule was to stop but four hours out
of every twenty-four, which soon made men and mules suffer
for the want of sleep as well as rest.
One day, after crossing about a thirty-mile desert, they
came to the bench or foothills of the next range of mountains,
that appeared to be very dry. Father told his partner to ride
a little ways off in that .direction and he would go the oppo-
site, *and if either found any water to shoot his pistol off, that
the other might come to him, and if neither of them found any
water they must return and climb the mountain and search the
other side.
After going as far as he thought advisable, Father took
the back track, and when he got to the place where they had
parted, not meeting his man, he followed his tracks as fast as
he could. After going about one-half of a mile, and just over
a small ridge, he saw the man and mule both standing up. The
man had his hands on the horn of the saddle as if about to
mount. The mule's head was down close to the bunch grass,
but both man and beast were fast asleep.
The mule was the first to awake, but merely raised his
head a little. The man slept till Father had dismounted and
gave him a shaking up, and asked him why he had not fired
the shot to let him know that he had found water. He said
he was going to ride back to the top of the little ridge arid do
so, as the shot could be heard farther, but had lost himself just'
as- he was about to mount. There was plenty of water there,
so they rested for four full hours.
At another time on this trip they w r ere suffering very se-
verely for water, but fortunately came to a small stream of
clear mountain water. Father's partner jumped off his mule
and threAv himself flat down with his lips to the water, suck-
ing in huge mouthfuls. Father grabbed him by the legs and
pushed him heels over head into the creek. Of course, when
he scrambled out, he was ready to fight, but when Father said,
"Now you can drink without killing yourself, and I hope you
have learned a good lesson about drinking when thirsty.
PIONEERING THE WEST 189
Father said, at one time on his fast trip across the coun-
try, as he was traveling through a narrow, steep side canyon,
it appeared to him that he was going through the street of a
very large city. The buildings on each side appeared to be of
many shapes, and some of many stories high, and occasionally
a bridge would span the street, and so low down that he would
duck his head to ride under them. Some of the houses seemed
to be lighted up. He could see the lights in many windows,
but there was no sound.
Then he knew that he was suffering for the want of sleep.
That made the transformation. He had often when on the
desert seen the mirage take the form of buildings, bridges,
forests and lakes (the writer has seen the same things), but
he knew this was not a mirage, but lack of sleep.
Father was of the opinion that man can go longer without
sleep than the animals he rode, but he felt sure that the ani-
mals often slept while traveling slow. I don't know as to that,,
but I do know that I have ridden horseback for five or six
miles while I was fast asleep, and only awakened by the pony
changing his gait.
This was at the place where the two riders passed each
other and reported that they had not met. Both had been fast
asleep and the ponies had not changed their pace in passing,
so the boys slept on till they did, which would be at some in-
cline or decline, as if to receive further orders, which they gen-
erally got by a gentle touch of the spurs or a lifting of the
bridle reins.
Suffering for Sleep. When Father arrived in Sacramento,
at the end of his ten-day mule trip, his first duty was to take
a bath and then a rood sleep, both of which lie stood very much
in need of. So, after engaging his room at the hotel, he turned
the water on and did not wait for the tub to fill, but got in
and sat down and leaned back and Well, the first he knew
the bellboy was in the room trying to wake him up. and the
water still runninu 1 at full force. The first thing- the bellboy
knew was a' battery of boots directed at him, which caused his
hasty retreat. But lie had broken the first real comfortable
sleep Father had enjoyed for over ten days. As there were
only two of them on the last trip, and as they only rested four
out of every twenty-four hours, and as both could not sleep at
the same time, on account of the danger of boini: attacked by
man or beast, then? wero only two hours out of each twenty-
four for each to -le<-;>. Too little to be much enjoyed, for the
awakening was the hardest part of the job, for sleep came
quickly but awakening came with a irnidi*e and a surprise at
the shortness <,f the length of two h"
190 PIONEERING THE WEST
31. A FEARFUL FALL.
In early days, when Father Avas at home for a brief time,
they used to have a sociable evening at home with friends, at
one home or another. As Father put in most all his time in
going or coming, or in California, the good folks, especially the
women folks, were always urging him to tell them some of his
thrilling experiences, as they knew he must have had many of
them. So, on one evening after much persuasion, he told this
to the very attentive listeners:
"I was selling beef to the placer miners and had to do a
great deal of horseback riding to visit the different camps to
get their orders for beef. On going to one camp I found the
trail so steep that I thought I would walk the balance of the
way, about one-fourth of a mile. So I tied my horse close to
the trail and footed it on up to the camp. On the way up I
noticed a good many prospect holes that had been abandoned.
Some of them with large dumps and some with their windlasses
still over them. I remember of thinking how dangerous it was
to leave such places uncovered, as men or animals that might
fall in one of them, if not killed, could not be heard by anyone,
and so die of starvation or thirst.
But to go on, I arrived in the camp early in the afternoon
and was much pleased, as I had made contracts for a good
amount of beef for each week for a couple of months, which
meant ten or twelve head of beef sold. Well, they were a jolly
crew of miners, and more so on account of their success. All
of which meant money for me.
By the time I had made the round of the camp and fin-
ished up my business it was dark. Some of the miners wanted
me to stay with them all night, but I would not, for I had left
my horse tied so he could not feed, and I also thought I could
find my way back down the gulch, although it had grown ex-
tremely dark.
"I followed a well-beaten trail and was making very good
time, when all at once I felt that I was falling. Throwing out
my hands I struck what I supposed w T as a windlass frame, and
clung to it for dear life. But the thing was so rotten that it
broke almost in two, and the least move I made it would crack,
and was already pinching m v hands. Now, if you can just im-
agine the horrible thoughts that ran riot through my head. How
T should lie mangled at the bottom, or if dead, how long be-
fore I would be found. What would my wife and friends say
as to the cause of my disappearance. Great beads of sweat
PIONEERING THE WEST
191
came out all over me. All my life's doing:, good, bad and in-
different, rushed through my mind at lightning speed, and the
terror and agony of it all! My strength was going away, and
I knew that the last moment had come, so commended my soul
to the powers above, I closed my eyes and let go my hold and
dropped (Oh, my! Dreadful! Horrible! And so on, from the
ladies) about six inches. Needless to say, after resting a few
moments I soon found my horse and rode home."
DIARY.
*To show some of Father's activities selling beef in Cali-
fornia we here insert some of his Diary of 1855, as follows:
January 1 At the ranch on the San Joaquin; cloudy. 12th
Left the ranch with O. R. Stibbins and the Indian. " 13th At
Stockton; stopped at the Slough House. 14th Stopped at
Sacramento, loth Stopped at Putah. 16th Started with
forty-four head of cattle. 17th Stopped at the Slough House;
commenced boarding at #9 per week. 20th Found an ox on
the east side of Cosmines river branded L K. 21st Mexican
Joseph came from San Joaquin. 25th Sold ten head of cattle.
26th Went to Sacramento and returned. 28th J. H. Kinkead
arrived this evening. 29th Mr. Kinkead left this morning.
Februarv 2 Sold five head of cattle to Mr. Tudsburv. 4th
First Salt Lake City Store, LiviiitfMtoii V Kinkead;
after Livingston Hell A to.
Mr. Livingston pajd us a visit. 7th Sold fifteen head of cat-
tle to Bill Williams of Diamond Springs, llth Received let-
192 PIONEERING THE WEST
ter from home. 12th C. Stibbins. started north. 14th Sold
seven head of cattle to Mr. Spensir. Received a package of -
letters from Captain Hunt. (*This was another message from
the Mormon Battalion.) 22nd Sold twelve head of cattle.
Started for Sacramento. 23rd At Sacramento. 24th Went
out to Putah and got fifty-one head of cattle. 25th Arrived
at the Cosmines. March 1 Sold ten head of cattle to Mr.
Crocker. 6th Started to Sacramento. 8th Went to Putah
after cattle. Got .fifty-one head. 9th Arrived at the Slough
House. 14th Sold twelve head of cattle. 15th Subscribed
$5 for the Mormon Herald to P. P. Pratt. 19th Sold fifteen
head of cattle to Windall. 20th Mr. Charles Warner got
killed. 21st Went to Sacramento; sent $2000 to Livingston
& Kinkead. 22nd Returned to the Slough House. 29th Sold
three head of cattle. April 1 Sold twenty-five head of cattle
to Mr. Tudsbury. 2nd At Sacramento; went to Five Mile
house with a friend. 3rd Went to Putah and got fifty-two
head of cattle and stopped at Washington. 4th Crossed the
cattle and arrived at the Slough House. 6th Started to Sac-
ramento. 9th E. C. Blodgett brought fifty cows from the
San Joaquin. 10th Sold a cow. 20th Sold seven steers to
Zimmerman. 22nd Sold four steers and one cow to Donnely
& Moffett. 26th Sold four cows and four steers to Oliver
Joyet. May 2 Went to Sacramento 'and sold thirty-eight head
of cattle to Frank Tudsbury. ' 4th Went to Putah and got
fifty head of cattle. 8th A man by the name of Bohler w r as
murdered one mile from Dayton's ranch. Sold two cows to B.
Hamenell. 14th A man was executed at Dayton's ranch.
(*Perhaps the murderer lynched.) 19th Sold twenty-five
head of cattle to Mines & Co. 21st Sold twenty-five steers
and seven cows. 27th Sold fifty-seven head of cows and
steers to Soseen. 28th Started to Auburn and crossed the
American river. Lost a cow and calf. 30th Took stage for
Sacramento. 31st Went to Putah creek and drove thirty-one
head of cows and steers to Sacramento. June 5th Started W.
Nash with fourteen head of cattle to Auburn. . 6th Sold nine-
teen head 'of cattle to King & Co. of Grass Valley, llth
Started for Georgetown. Sold Frank Hereford fifteen cows.
18th Stopper five miles from Rough and Ready. 20th At
Jordan Spring House. Sold to Mr. Morgan fifty-four head of
steers. 28th Received of H. Mucly & Warner '$2500 for Mr.
Brown. 30th E. C. Blodgett arrived with the mules. July 1
Started the boys for Salt Lake.
Fci <crliiiat: : cr cl E ieij see page 196, which was so placed to shcjw search oi Mail Line.
PIONEERING THE WEST 193
SEC. II. THE CENTRAL ROUTE TO CALIFORNIA.
32. A TEN DAYS' TRIP TO CALIFORNIA MADE BY
HOWARD EGAN IN 1855.
From Salt Lake City, Utah, to Sacramento, Cal., in Ten Days
on Mule Back, Through a Trackless and Desert Country.
A Time Never Equaled Before or Since by Such
a Mode of Traveling.
Wednesday, September 19, 1855. We started from Salt
Lake City to go to Sacramento, Cal., early this morning:, and
stopped at Tooele to breakfast. Then went on and stopped in
Lone Rock Valley about 1 o'clock p. m. We started on again
at 3 o'clock and stopped at a brackish spring to get supper,
about two hours, and then went on again.
Thursday, 20th. We stopped at the eastern edge of the
desert about 2 o'clock in the morning and started at 5 o'clock,
stopping to breakfast at the Granite mountain, where there are
fine springs and Lrood feed for a small company. We started
from there at 11 a. m. and crossed the desert, stopping on the
west side of the desert at Willow Springs at 7 p. m. We started
again and at 9 o'clock the same evening we passed Peter Haws
and company, who were camped about ten miles frdm the
spring.
Friday, 21st. We camped about 4 a. m. and started on at
5 o'clock, stopping to breakfast at o'clock. We started again
at 10 a. m. and stopped to bate about 3 p. m. for an hour, and
started on again at 5 o'clock. Mr. J. Redding, who accom-
panied us as far as Redding 's Springs, returned home.
Saturday, 22nd. We stopped at 3 o'clock in the morning
for two hours, and started on again at 5 o'clock, traveled two
miles and stopped for breakfast. The morning was cold and
cloudy. We started at 8 a. m. and stopped to feed at 2 p. m.,
starting on at 3 o'clock. We saw a larue Indian camp in the
valley. It commenced raining about dark. We went up a Can-
yon and camped for the night.
Sunday, 23rd. We started at o'clock in the morning and
met the Indians coming up the canyon on our trail. We stopped
in the Humboldt valley at 2 p. m. to feed for an hour, and then
started at 3 o'clock and traveled until 4 o'clock the next morn-
ing without water.
194 PIONEERING THE WEST
Monday, 24th. We started at 6 a. m. and found a spring
of water about 10 o'clock on the top of a mountain, and stopped
to feed. We- started again at 12 o'clock and stopped at 1 p. m.
for an hour and left at 2 p. m., traveling- all the evening.
Tuesday, 25th. We stopped about 1 hour and 30 minutes
to feed, and started at 3 :30 p. m.
Wednesday, 26th. We camped at 2 o'clock this morning
and started at 6:30 a. m. and arrived at the Humboldt river,
ninety miles from the sink.
Thursday, 27th. We arrived at the Trading Post, at the
Sink, about 11 p. m., and started at 2 o'clock to cross the Big
Desert, arriving at Rag Town at 11:30 p. m.
Friday, 28th. We started at 2:30 a. m. from Rag Town
and stopped at Gold Canyon at 11:30 a. m. We started from
there at 2 p. m. and arrived at Jack Valley at 7 o'clock;
changed mules and started at 9 o'clock and went on.
Saturday, 29th. We traveled all night and stopped at
Slippery Ford to breakfast. We changed mules at Silver Creek
and traveled all night, arriving at Placerville at 5 o'clock in
the morning and at Sacramento at 6 p. m., making the trip in
ten davs.
33. *FINDING THE EGAN TRAIL.
OVERLAND MAIL LINE. NOW LINCOLN HIGHWAY.
Original Trails. Many original trails were blazed through
the western country by early travelers. The trappers, as early
as 1810, one year after the birth of America's immortal Lin-
coln, in whose memory this and subsequent trails were forged
into this ocean-to-ocean highway, and if we include the pres-
ent California (it was all California at that time, as far north
as the north line of that state now and east to the Rocky
mountains) much earlier than that. Peter Skeene was on the
Weber river, near Great Salt Lake, in 1825, and W. M. Ashley
on the shores of Utah Lake in 1826. In 1842 General John C.
Fremont visited Great Salt Lake, and the trail to Oregon
through the South Pass and down the Columbia river began
to be traveled yearly. Mr. Sutter went down the coast, lo-
cated in California, and then some travelers went by way of
Fort Hall, Idaho, and up the Humboldt, through what is now
Truckee pass, through the Sierra Nevada mountains.
In 1844 Hastings followed the Indian trail through the
Rocky mountains and blazed a cutoff trail south of Great Salt
Lake, which is the present link of the Lincoln Highway which
during the last year has caused the most apprehension of any
PIONEERING THE WEST 195
point on the route between New York and the Pacific coast,
intersecting- the north trail on the Humboldt. Walker, with
ten men, followed this trail into Salt Lake Valley, and the
Donner party in 1846 followed the Hastings cutoff, most of
the company perishing- in the Sierra Nevada mountains from
cold and hung-er on account of the impassable snow. In 1847
the "Mormon" pioneers followed this same trail to the Great
Salt Lake Valley and beg-an to make their home there. This
trail and the Oregon trail they followed to South Pass, in Wyo-
ming is part of the Lincoln Highway. There still were many
trails to be blazed throughout the intermountain country.
Egan Trail. Quoting from Bancroft's History of iJtah,
pages 751-2: "Between Utah and California there were three
principal lines of travel the northern, the central and south-
ern. The first skirted the northern edge of Great Salt Lake
and thence after crossing an intervening stretch of desert, fol-
lowed the valley of the Humboldt and Carson rivers, being, in
fact, almost identical with Fremont's route of 1845. Not-
withstanding its length, it was still preferred by travelers, as
grass and water were fairly plentiful, with only two small
tracts of desert land to contend with. (The southern route
has been fully given in Father's Diary of 1849-50, in preced-
ing article No. 27.)
"The central route, better known to the settlers of Utah
by the name of Egan's Trail, and to California-bound emi-
grants as the Simpson route, though the two were by no means
coincident, varied but a few miles from 40 degrees north lati-
tude, until renching Hastings pass in the Humboldt mountains
where it branched off in a southwesterly direction toward
Carson lake and river, and from Carson City south to Genoa.
The South route was by way of the Sevicr, Santa Clara, Vir-
gin, Las Vegas, Indian rivers to San Bernardino.
"In 1859 J. H. Simpson, of the topographical engineers,
received instructions from Gen. Johnson to explore the great
basin, with a view to find a desert route from Camp Floyd to
Genoa, in Carson valley. An account of the expedition will be
found in his 'Exploring Great Basin.' For about 300 miles
his route was identical with Kgan's, except for a few unim-
portant deviations, but soon after reaching Ruby Valley it
tended more toward the south. Kuan's line was preferred,
however, as on the one taken by Simpson grass and water were
scarce."
"Howard Egan, a Ma.jor in tin- NMUVOO Legion and a well-
known guide and mountaineer, was for some years engaged in
driving stock to California in the service of Livingston & Kin-
196 PIONEERING THE WEST
kead and afterward became a mail agent." Burton's City of
the Saints, page 550.
In 1855 he was engaged in this business and in his diary,
w*hich I now have in my possession, he writes the following
about his searching out the Egan Trail:
"July 4th Started in the stage to Placerville on the way
to Salt Lake; stopped at South Fork of American river. July
5th, stopped at Lake Valley, ate supper at Gold Canyon, traveled
all night and stopped at Savin's to breakfast. July 6, crossed
the twenty-six-mile desert, stopped near Rag Town and started
over the forty-mile desert at 7:30. July 7th, traveled over the
desert. July 8th, arrived at the sink of the Humboldt. Started
at 11 a. m. and came thirty-five miles and stopped for supper.
Started at 10 p. m. and traveled all night. July 9th, about
4 a. m., stopped to feed. Started at 8 a. m. and arrived at
the trading 1 post about 11 a. m. Left the Indian Tecunisee at
this point. Camped at 9 p. m. July 10th, started about 4 a. m.
and spent the day in hunting the Beckwith trail. This evening
three of the mules ran off. Spent the night hunting them.
July llth This morning I found the mules and started at 7 :30
a. m., stopped to bait at 4:30 p. m. Started about 8 p. m. and
camped about 12 :30 a. m. and started at 3 a. m. July 12th,
stopped to bait about 7 a. m. and started about 9 :30 a. m. We
had the pleasure of having some Indians to breakfast with us.
Stopped about 5 p. m. July 13th, started at 3 this morning.
Stopped to breakfast at 5:30 a. m. and camped at 4 p. m.
Started to hunt a pass through the Humboldt range and got lost.
Got to camp next morning, July 14th. Spent this day by all
to find a pass through the mountains. July 15th, started at
5 a. m. and stopped at Peter Haw's and took dinner. Started
at 2:30 p. m. ,and camped at 8 p. m. July 16th, started at
3 a. m., came fifteen miles and stopped at C. Munvey's to bait.
Started a south course through a pass in the Humboldt moun-
tains, traveled through a beautiful valley and stopped at 3 p. m.
Traveled ten miles and camped. July 17th, started at 4 this
morning and, traveling a south course, about 7 a. m. inter-
secte4 Hastings trail, bearing east. Stopped to feed at 11 a. m.
at Sulphur Springs. John R. Addams. traveling in company
with horses, camped about 8 p. m. : no water. July 18th,
started at 3:30 a. m., bearing north. Traveled about five miles
and came to a large slough and stopped to feed. Started at
8 o'clock and stopped about 4 p. m., where there is a host of
springs (no doubt Thousand Spring valley) ; feed good. Started
at 7 p. m. and stopped on the desert about 12 :30 a. m. ; no.
grass nor water. July 19th, started at 3 o'clock this 'morning,
traveled over a rough, barren country and stopped at a spring
PIONEERING THE WEST 197
on the right of the road about 3 p. in. Started at 6 o'clock
and stopped at 11:30 p. ra. July 20th, started this morning
about 4 o'clock and stopped to feed about 11 o'clock."
From this on his diary contains little or nothing until
after he arrived in Salt Lake City and had made a wager that
he could ride to Sacramento in ten days a mule-back. He then
'gives an account of the trip commencing September 19th, 1855,
and arrived at Sacramento at 6 p. m., September 29th, making
the trip in ten days, as given in Article 32.
In the back of his diary for this year (1855) he makes
the following memorandum: "Commencement of trail," which,
he says, "was ninety miles to the right (or south) of the sink
of Humboldt. Across a valley twelve miles little water in
canyon over a mountain five miles; little water to the right in
the creek across a valley one mile from the road at foot of
mountain, good grass and water. Thirty miles to summit of
mountain. Ten miles to left, one mile over small mountain
creek. Fifteen miles to Ruby Valley. Twenty miles down to
valley; forty miles in same valley, creek fifteen miles (perhaps
Shell Creek) on the side of a small mountain is a large spring.
Twenty miles over mountain five or six springs (Spring Val-
ley). Twelve miles to summit of a little mountain; twenty-five
miles to Deep Creek: thirty miles to desert: twenty miles over
summit of 'mountain: forty-five miles to Salt Spring. To
creek sixteen miles."
These were his notes in laying out the trail, and he also
had a map, but as it is only a rude drawing, with no names
of places, no one but him could make much out of it. He had
also a list of figures, perhaps distances.
STATIONS AND DISTANCES
On the Egan Trail or Overland Mail Line as Finally Selected.
Names of Stations. Names of Stations.
Miles Miles
Salt Lake City. 12 Black Rock.
9 Traveler's Rest. 11 Fish Springs.
11 Rockwell's. 10 Boyd's.
9 Dug Out. 10 Willow Springs.
10 Fort Crittenden. 15 Canyon Station.
10 Pass. ' 12 Deep Creek.
10 Rush Valley. 8 Prairie Gate or Eight Mile.
11 Point Lookout. 18 Antelope Springs.
15 Simpson's Springs. 13 Spring Valley.
8 River Bed. 12 Sehell 'Creek.
10 Diiff Wav. 12 Egan Canvon.
198 PIONEERING THE WEST
15 Butte. 15 Fair View.
11 Mountain Springs. 13 Mountain Well.
9 Ruby Valley. 15 Still Water.
12 Jacob's Wells. 14 Old River.
12 Diamond Springs. 14 Bisby's.
12 Sulphur Springs. 11 Nevada.
13 Robert's Creek. 12 Desert Wells.
13 Camp Station. 13 Dayton.
15 Dry Creek. 13 Carson.
10 Cape Horn. 14 Genoa.
11 Simpson's Park. 11 Friday's.
15 Reese River. 10 Yonk's.
12 Mount Airey. 12 Strawberry.
14 Castle Rock. 12 Webster's!
12 Edward's Creek. 12 Moss.
11 Cold "Spring. 12 Sportsman's Hall.
10 Middle Gate. 12 Placerville.
Total 658 miles.
Overland Mail Line. No doubt he was hunting this line
out with the object of a mail line, for soon after he was in
partnership, or more or less associated with W. G. Chorpening
in carrying the mail. In "The Overland Stage to California,"
we read that W. G. Chorpening, in the 50 's was proprietor of
the mail line from Sacramento east to the Utah capital, there
connecting with the route from St. Joseph, Mo. In the spring
of 1858 Chorpening purchased ten stage coaches, with all the
necessary supplies for the route, and the vehicles were re-
ceived at Atchison, Kansas, in August, 1858, shipped by Mis-
souri river steamboat." Page 40.
This was not a daily mail service, but was made daily in
July, 1861, and was succeeded by Holladay Overland Mail and
Express Co., and later Wells Fargo and Co.
34 *PONY EXPRESS.
The first "Pony Express" from the west arrived at Salt
Lake City, April 7tli, 1860, having left Sacramento, California,
on the evening of April 3rd, I860, and on the 9th it arrived
from the east, having left St. Joseph, Mo., on the same evening
April 3rd. 1860." Brother Howard writes:
"Father's First Express Ride. When all was supposed to
be readv and the time figured out when the first Express should
arrive in Salt Lake City from the east, they thought that, on
account of the level country to run over, that they would be
PIONEERING THE WEST
199
able to make better time on the eastern division than on the
western from Salt Lake to California. Therefore, the two
riders that were to run between Salt Lake and Rush Valley
were kept at the city.
Father alone of all the officers of the line thought his
boys would make as good a record as the best and, if they did,
Pony Express; Indians after rider.
Pioneer of the telegraph line in the west.
there would be no rider at Rush Valley to carry the Express
on to the city. So to be on the safe side Father went himself
to Rush Valley. And sure enough his boys delivered the
goods as he expected, and he started on his first ride. It was
a stormy afternoon, but all went well with him till on the
"home stretch."
The pony on this run was a very swift, fiery and frac-
tious animal. The night was so dark that it was impossible
to see the road, and there was a strong wind blowing from the
north, carrying a sleet that cut the face while trying to look
ahead. But as long as he could hear the pony's feet pounding
the road, he sent him ahead at full speed.
All went well, but when he got to Mill Creek, that was
200 PIONEERING THE WEST
covered by a plank bridge, he heard the pony's feet strike the
bridge and the next instant pony and rider landed in the
creek, which Avet Father above the knees, but the next instant,
with one spring, the little brute was out and pounding the
road again and very soon put the surprise on the knowing ones.
And here let me say, it was a very long time before the regu-
lar riders came up to the time made on this first trip, if they
ever did."
. This Pony Express continued in operation until the Over-
land Telegraph line was completed, October 18, 1861, from the
east to Salt Lake, and October 24th from the west. All the
fast messages, of course, went by telegraph, and there was no
more need for the Pony Express, as there was at that time a
daily mail coach, the Overland Mail, running regularly and
continued for many years.
^Indian Raids. The Indians attacked the mail station at
.Deep Creek, stole a band of horses, and shot a man May 28,
1860. They made a raid on Egan Canyon station August 12th,
and the following day on Schell Creek. A company of soldiers
came to the rescue and killed seventeen Indians.
The Overland Mail coach, with four passengers, was
attacked by Indians at Eight Mile Station, near Deep Creek.
The station men were killed, also Henry Harper, the driver,
and one passenger wounded. Judge Mott, delegate to Con-
gress from Nevada, climbed out of the stage, got the lines and
made their escape to Deep Creek. (See details of this in later
article, Indian Outbreak.) 1 1 This was on March 22nd, 1863.
Near Canyon Station, May 19th, the driver, W. R. 'Simson was
shot while Father was riding by his side, who pulled him into
the boot, got the reins, stopped the coach and ordered out the
soldiers to return the fire, one of whom was shot between the
toes. JjOn the 8th of July, 1863, the Indians attacked Canyon
Station near Deep Creek, killing four soldiers and Bill Riley,
the water wagon driver, the latter of whom was thrown on
the wood pile bv the Indians and burned. One of the soldiers,
being bald and having a heavy beard, the beard was cut off by
the Indians instead of the scalp. This happened the day after
we arrived at Deep Creek with our freight train, at the sta-
tion Ave had passed, and I saw the dead soldiers who were
brought down therefor burial, and noted the bald soldier with
his chin whiskers cut off.
The writer was then a boy of twelve and was traveling
with Brother Erastus, who had charge of three six-mule teams.
I and another boy were night herders and we were on our
way with grain, freighting from Salt Lake for the mail sta-
tions and continued on to Carson, where we bought goods to
PIONEERING THE WEST 201
stock Father's stores at Ruby Valley and Deep Creek. At tbis
same time my brother Howard had charge of about ten big
government wagons with four yoke of oxen to each wagon with
freight for the stations, and he went as far as Dimond Springs
with it. The mule and ox trains were owned by Father. Be-
fore we left Deep Creek with -these trains, Eight Mile Station,
next one west, was burned by Indians.
*35 DEEP CREEK.
Before the Deep Creek ranch was purchased by Father the
old trail ran south from Willow Springs around Deep Creek
(now called by its Indian name of I-ba-pah), but after that
ranch was bought, it was made a station on the Overland -Mail
Deep Creek ranch and mail station. Left to right, H. R. Egan's residence,
driver** sleeping: rooms, the station with rest roouun and eating? rooms,
Line and our principal home. Deep Creek w y as headquarters
for many years, where Father and his sons were quite success-
ful in raising hay and grain for the mail stations and in
ranching. The home station eating house was also kept and
the stations along the road supplied with beef and mutton.
About twenty cows were kept for milking, which chore fell to
the lot of the writer and brother Hyrum, as well as the cowboy
job of riding the range for beef cattle, hunting horses and
herding sheep, as well as helping on the farm, plowing, plant-
ing and irrigating, hauling hay, etc.
Father was superintendent on the Overland Mail Line and
all these activities were carried on successfully until May 10th,
1869, when the railroad was completed on the northern route,
north of Salt Lake, leaving Deep Creek almost entirely out of
the general line of traffic, until of recent years the Lincoln
Highway has been established and this old route now again
becomes re-established, especially for auto travel, it being well
selected for this purpose as it is the shortest and best route
to the Pacific coast. We are proud to say that Father spent
many a hard day and many a hard trip in searching it out
202 PIONEERING THE WEST
SEC. III. STORIES OF WESTERN ROUTE, ETC.
36 GETTING RID OF AN INDIAN.
The articles and stories of thrilling experiences, to the
end of the book, were written by Brother H. R. Egan and
speak for themselves.
When Father was very busy trying to get thing's in shape
to put a line of mail coaches on the Western Route across the
desert to California, on one occasion I was his driver of a little
spring wagon or ambulance. The pack trail at that time ran
through Pleasant Valley, which is about thirty miles south of
Deep Creek the present through route.
We were going west from the Pleasant Valley camp and
had made about ten miles when we saw an Indian trotting along
back of the wagon. When he noticed that we had seen him
he ran alongside of the front wheel. Father stood this as long
as his nerves could stand it, for he expected to see the man
get tangled in the wheel at any moment, for he had to keep
dodging around the sage brush and was doing this on the run,
all the time looking at Father. So to get rid of him, Father
asked me if I had any loose powder with me, a flask of which
I always carried for pistol loading.
He held out his hand and I gave him a few loads; the
Indian saw this and was all grinning with pleasure. The team
at this time was trotting on a down grade, and in handing
the powder out to the Buck's outstretched hand Father pre-
tended to be jolted so, by the swaying of the wagon, that he
missed the Indian's hand, and the powder fell to the ground
in a scattered condition in dust and sage leaves. The Indian
dropped like he had been shot, to his knees, and as far as
we could see him, was working to pick up the powder.
Father said, "Well, I thought of that plan to get rid of
him and I guess that will hold him back till w r e have time to
bait the animals and get our supper in Spring Valley" (about
eight miles further on). We lost no time, and arrived at our
camp just before sundown, staked the team on good grass,
and got our grub nearly ready to eat when Mr. Indian walked
np to our fire. Father looked up to me as much as to say
1 'fooled."
After a while Father said, "I should like to know how
PIONEERING THE WEST 203
much of that powder he saved." I said, "Every srrain, o r he
would have been there yet." "Ask him," said Father. I did,
and the Indian showed us that he had tied it up in one corner
of his shirt tail, which was all the clothing he had on. The
bunch looked to be about the bulk of clean powder that had
been dropped for him. Father said he would like to see it. I
told the Indian to untie it and let us see it; he did, and to our
surprise we could not detect a particle of dirt. It was as
<?lean as that in my flask. How did he do it?
I learned afterwards that he had taken off his shirt,
spread it down near the powder, and was very careful to :-coop
up all the powder tog-ether with dirt dust and leaves, putting
it all on the shirt. When this had been done he removed to
another corner of the shirt all the coarse dirt and leaves which
were there, searched and then cast it off. Then the process
was simply to shake and blow out the dust and pick out gravel
or lumps of dirt that would not crumble. We had traveled
at about eight miles an hour. The Indian had appeared at
our camp in less than one hour after we had stopped to feed.
He must have done the job pretty quick and then run like a
race horse every step of the way from where the powder was
dropped to camp, yet he did not seem to be the least bit tired,
not even sweating. Well, he earned his supper, and got it.
37 A RUN FOR LIFE.
Bolly and two others of the mail boys were building the
first log cabin at Dry Creek, and had the logs laid up and
the roof on, but the spaces between the logs had not yet been
chinked or plastered. The road ran in front of the door, and
just across it they had placed the covered top wagon-bed to
serve as store room until the house was ready to use. The
cooking stove had been put in place and the cook this morning
had just started to make a fire to get breakfast.
Bolly had just brawled out of bed and gone back of the
wagon, and was only partly dressed, but having his belt that
carried his pistol, in his hand. The other man was still in 'he
wagon ready to come out, when there was a gun shot, and the
cook came running out of the house crying. "Indians! I am
shot. Boys, run for your life! They are back of the house
trying to shoot at us through the cracks."
The boys by this time were close together and soon saw
that they must get farther from the wagon or be killed, with-
out returning; the compliment. So they ran down the road
about one hundred yards, where they stopped to council as to
204 PIONEERING THE WEST
their next move. Should they try to hunt up the team, or en-
deavor to stand the Indians off?
Each of the boys had his pistol and a pouch of ammuni-
tion On iiiS LMTIL. JiinBy uiu. iiut ^ci/ liinCji tiiliti to Cju.jiv.or, J.Or
fche Indians showed up in a larger band than was expected and
were trying to surround the boys to prevent any from escap-
ing. Seeing this move, the boys agreed that their only chance
for life was to run for the next station east, 'twenty-five or
thirty miles away, and at once, as the Indians were almost
abreast of them and had to be kept back by pointing revolvers
at them.
The boys started on the run, when the cook told them to
take his pistol and leave him and save themselves, as he could
not run any more, and was dying anyhow. The boys would not
consent to that, but one on each side took hold of him to help
him along, but very soon he said, "If you won't leave me, slve
me my pistol so I can help to fight them."
They gave him the gun and as the Indians had to keep
their heads out of sight while they were running down a
crooked ravine, the boys could walk a few steps once in a while,
and still keep ahead. They were doing this when the cook,
who had fallen back two or three steps, shot his own brains
out and fell in the middle of the road.
"We cannot help him now," said Bolly and, taking the
pistol and belt off the man, the two went off on the run to
keep out of the trap the Indians were trying to get them in.
After going some three or four miles, the country was getting
so smooth and level there was no chance for the Indians to
spring a surprise on them, and the Indians were afraid to
attack them on open ground.
So after thev got well down in the valley to a place where
they had a good view of the country for a few miles in all
directions, they made a halt to rest and to deliberate as to \vnat
to do to get out of their scrape. The station they were going
to had probably been treated the same as the one they had left,
and no knowing how many more. How far would they have to
travel before they could get a square meal?
They at last agreed to save their strength by traveling
slowly so as to reach the station after dark, and from some other
direction than the road and, if there were Indians there, to
try a surprise on them, if there was any chance of success
whatever. They approached the station at the time and, as
agreed, pistols in hand. They tip-toed around the house to the
door and listened for some signs of life before kicking at the
door. Just then some one inside said, "I heard something out-
side, did you?" "Yes," yelled Bolly, "there is something
PIONEERING THE WEST 205
out here and darn hungry, too. Open the door for the chil-
dren," which was clone at once, and when the boys had eaten
their breakfast, dinner and supper and told their story, it
was decided to hold the fort. As they expected the pack train
with the mail at any old time, and then they would be strong 1
enough to be the attacking- party. They prepared for emer-
gencies, and sure enough the next evening the mail arrived
with three carriers, which made their force seven well armed
men, who had no scare in their -make-up and all ready for any
skirmish that might turn up.
Their animals had to have a rest and feed, so it was de-
cided to stay there till 10 or 12 o'clock that night before
starting west, which they did, and arrived to where the dead
man lay in the road, about 10 a. m. The Indians had stripped
him of all clothing and then left him. He had been shot right
through the body, and it is a wonder that he lived and traveled
so far after being shot that way. They buried him just to
one side of the road.
There had been left two men at the station, so there were
five to go with the mail. They found that the Indians had
burned up the wagon bed and tried to burn the house, but it
was built of green logs and would not burn. The team that
was left there was never recovered or even heard of. There
had not been any other station on the line attacked at this-
time and Bolly was soon back on his old stamping ground.
38 "TRACKING STOLEN MULES."
It was while we w y ere bringing back from Ruby Valley four
mules we were to leave at Deep Creek. The ''we" was my
companion (Lafayette Ball, Bolly, as he was called for short)
and myself. We had reached a point near the south end of
Spring Valley, eight or ten miles east of Shell Creek, when
there came up a violent rain storm, wetting our clothes
through. So we concluded to camp for the night in a bunch
of cedars that was close to the trail we were traveling. We
staked two of the mules on good feed and let the two we had
ridden all dav run loose, thinking they would not ramble very
far away. We made a good big fire, and stripping, dried our
clothes and blankets, and went to bed.
Just as day was breaking, Bolly awoke and said, "You
make a fire while I get the mules. " The two not picketed
were not in sight. He was gone till nearly sunrise no mules.
He said he had circled their tracks and found they were goingf
in a southwest direction for Shell Creek mountains, and one
going directly behind the other. He said, "They are stolen.
206 PIONEERING THE WEST
What shall we do?" "You say first." "Well, I say, mules or
hair." "Good, the same here." We were not long 1 in
saddling' up and getting" to the place where Boily had found
the trail.
From this place to where the trail would reach the moun-
tains, if it ran straight, would be about five or six miles.
Where the trail was plain we would ride side by side as fast
as possible, the trail between us. But when it was not plain
and hard to locate, we would one of us keep to the crail
going as fast as he could pick out the tracks, the other would
rush ahead for half a mile or so in the direction the tracks
were leading, and as soon as he saw the tracks would motion
back to the other, who would then drop the trail and run as
fast as possible up ahead of the other to find the trail.
So we were making- pretty fast time and were not long
in reaching the mountains, and here our really hard work was
found, for the tracks led along the side of the mountain, over
and across ledges of rock, where only a little iron mark was
made by the mules ' shoes. We were also careful not to fall
into an ambush. But by one riding ahead as far as he could,
yet keeping in sight of the other, we were still making pretty
good time.
Bolly, in crossing one of these ledges could not find the
trail, and therefore was circling back towards me, but below
the rocks. He motioned that he was right; I was soon at his
side. Here the trail was very plain, going in a southeast direc-
tion as if to cross the valley diagonally. When we got out
of the timber line there was nothing to do but keep a watch
ahead and follow the trail as fast as we could go.
After doing this for about three miles we came to within
a hundred yards of a large, rocky knoll or mound covering
about one acre, and about twenty-five feet high near the center.
Bolly (who was ahead at this point) said "Keep a watch on
that hill, for the mules have been turned loose and the thieves
may take a shot at us." We could tell by the way the tracks
criss-crossed back and forth that the mules were left to ramble
as they wished. Bolly said, "Shall we get them, or the mules
first?" I said, "We were hunting mules and I think we had
better find them first, and then if we come across the thieves
we can have a deal with them."
Before we started on the trail again we circled that mound,
keeping off at what we thought a safe distance, and far enough
apart that one or the other could see the opposite side of the
mound, but no Indian showed up. Still we were sure they
were there yet, and if we half wanted them we would have
found a way to get them.
PIONEERING THE WEST 207
The mules had turned west, going towards the foothills,
which we soon reached, and when we sighted the mules, they
were feeding along as they went up a ravine, probably hunting
water. When we caught them we noticed that one of the
mules had not been ridden, the other had carried both Indians.
The one they had led still had the rope dragging from his
neck. Bolly said that mule would not be ridden bare-back. All
this compelled the Indians to travel more slowly.
As we started back on a straight line for where we had
camped, we passed about half way between the timber line and
the mound where the mules had been turned loose. " Shall we
investigate?" said I. "No use," said Bolly, "for look there,"
pointing towards the timber. And sure enough, there they were,
running at their best speed for taller ground. We let them go.
A couple of years later I got the names of the two young
bucks who did the stealing. Their excuse was that they thought
us immigrants who had two animals apiece while they had none.
But they began to be afraid they had made a mistake whon
they saw how they were being trailed, and when we were cir-
cling the mound, oh which they were, one said, "If I get a
chance I will take a shot at one." The other said, "Don't
you shoot, for if yon do we will both be killed, for don't you
know who it is that wears that antelope skin shirt ? He rever
misses. Lay down and maybe they won't bother us, for they
surely know we are here."
We ot to our camp about dark, this time picketing the
four mules, and they were all right next morning, but we were
one dav late at our destination.
39. CHANGING A CAMP AFTER DARK.
In the times of Indian trouble we were very careful whore
we located our camp at night, but sometimes there was not
much room to choose from. It so happened to a party of three.
They had a choice of a camp up the flat a few rods, or down
about the same distance, but stopped about the middle,
picketed their horses on the best feed in sight, got their supper
and made their bed down while yet light. One of the men
noticed that across the hollow and about thirty yards distant
was a ledge of rocks that made this a poor camping place for
safety.
There was nothing doing till it sot quite dark, then the
animals were moved back down the hollow, and the eamp
moved down, and the bed remade, but no fire kindled. The
first fire had been left burning. In the morning all was found
to be all right and they started on their way up the hollow,
208 PIONEERING THE WEST
and, as they were passing the place of their first camp fire,
one of them saw an arrow sticking in the ground close to
where their bed had first been laid down, and looking, found
two or three more, and no two pointed alike, proving that
there were three or four of the Indians that fired them from
the ledge.
One of the boys said, "A happy move; a miss is as good
as a mile." An Indian generally has his own arrows all
marked one way and all .the same. This is done by small rings
v or stripes of different colors around the feathered end of the
x :arrow, no dispute as to whose arrow killed the game, the ar-
row would show that.
Marked Arrows.
40. MY THREE DAYS' FAST.
It came about in this way. Ben Holladay, who had a
large interest in the Overland Mail Line, was to make a quick
trip across the continent, and Father, who was the boss of the
road from Salt Lake to Carson City, made all preparations Jxrf
a fast rim. The time was set when Holladay should start from
New York, and figured out by the road agents, as we called
them, when he would arrive on their division.
Father, as I suppose as did all the other agents sent re-
lays or stage teams back east of their station, half way to the
next station, thus giving each driver a fresh team half way
between stations, which would enable him to greatly increase
his speed. This was carried out all along the line, but Father
liad merely said in his note: "Send a relay back to such a
point, and at such a time, and wait for me till I come. ' '
PIONEERING THE WEST 209
I was stationed at Butte and, on the date set, with L. Ball
and the four mules, went back some eighteen or twenty miles
to Egan Canyon, where we arrived about noon and had just
got settled down to prepare our dinner when two of the Shell
Creek boys came in and said they had lost the relay mules and
had come this way in search of them. They were fourteen
miles from their home station and as many more from thei*
relay camp. They had started to get the mules at daylight
and without any breakfast, had ridden a good many miles. The}
were hungry as wolves.
We had brought enough grub with us for three meals, din-
ner, supper and breakfast, if we needed it, for the stage was
to come anywhere between sundown and midnight. So we all
turned loose on the "grub pile," and it was but a few minutes
before all the eatables had vanished, also the mule hunters.
Bolly (as we called my chum) and I had no supper that
night and, in fact, nothing till we reached our home station
three days later. Well, the time dragged along slowly. The
second day brought up the hunger to such a pitch that we held
a joint debate as to whether we go back home or not, for we
did not dare to separate and one go back for grub, as a band
of strange Indians had come and made their camp less than a
half mile from us. We decided .to stay at our post at least
another twenty-four hours.
That evening one of the Indians, a very big fellow, came
to our fire. When I asked him what he wanted, he replied by
asking if we were hungry. I told him no, and after looking all
around to see how we were fixed, he pulled out from under his
blanket a piece of fresh antelope meat about the size of your
two hands, and said he wanted to trade that for powder and
bullets. I asked him, "How much?" He said, "Twenty
charges powder, twenty bullets, twenty caps." I said to
Bolly, "What do you think about that?"' "Well," said Bolly,
"if he gets that much from me I would not give much for his
hide. It would be so full of holes as to be quite unsaleable. * '
The Indian, after hearing my refusal to trade, and a gentle
nod towards his camp, turned and went to his friends, who,
we could see, were all watching what was going on at our camp.
Just as dark set in we moved our saddles and traps to another
place, but 'close to the road, changed the mules to another place
on the opposite side of our camp from the Indians, and thus,
by sleeping one at a time, we passed the night, and still no
stage.
In the morning we found that the Indians had moved
about a fourth of a mile further away. For what purpose we
did not know or care much. About noon Bolly came to me,
210 PIONEERING THE WEST
where I was on guard, and asked me for some smoking paper,
as he had used up all the paper he had brought with him but
had quite a bunch of tobacco. Well, I had used up the last
slip of paper I could rake up about two hours before, intending
to get some from Bolly. There we were, two smokers up
against it, plenty of tobacco with no pipe or paper.
Bolly tried a cigarette made of tobacco and a piece of cot-
ton shirt tail, but it was no good. We must find something
better, but how and where? Bolly said if he could find some
clay he could make a pipe and bake it in the fire, and started
off to find the clay along the creek, and in the meantime I was
hard at work splitting a small willow, cutting out the center
and wrapping the two halves together to make a stem for the
pipe. After he had made the pipe and cooked it a while, he
removed it from the fire, when it broke and crumbled to fine
dirt. " Good-bye," says Bolly, "for, like the 'Fox and the
Grapes,' I don't want to smoke anyhow," so went back to his
perch on the point of the rocks, close to the road and to the
mules, and where he could view the Indian camp, also the road
a short distance down the canyon in the direction the stage was
to come from. While there he saw a half dozen Indian hunters
return to their camp with two or three dead antelope they had
run down and shot that forenoon.
After Bolly had made a mess of the pipe business I. merely
to pass off the time some way, hunted along the creek for a
willow large enough to be whittled into a pipe form. Not find-
ing one, I returned to camp and sat down on the wire grass
sod to await events. Seeing my crude pipe stem, I picked it
up and had a new thought at the same time. I cut the grass
off a small piece of ground and, after pounding it down to
make it solid, I proceeded to cut dawn in it the shape of a
pipe bowl, then a long slanting trench from the bottom of the
bowl to the surface of the ground, about a foot from the
bowl. Then I placed my pipe stem in this trench, tamping
the dirt down over it, and when I had got through, I found
I could blow through it, so I filled it with tobacco, put a coal
of fire on, and had a very cool and pleasant smoke. I called
to Bolly to come, and that I had made a pipe, but it was Lot
portable. "Nothing doing," said Bolly, till I drew a long
whiff of smoke from the pipe, then stood up and blew the
smoke up in the air. That brought him on the run, and look-
ing at the thing, he said, "By Heck! and how simple." I
imagine I can see him now, laying down on his side, and one
elbow on the ground (in a comfortable position) to reach the
pipe stem, which stuck up about six inches. Well, no more
trouble about smoking while there.
PIONEERING THE WEST 211
On the third day of our stay there, we had just put the
mules on fresh grass, just as day was breaking in the east
and while standing there at the side of the road, we heard the
welcome rumble of the coach, and by the time we brought our
saddles to the road, the stage, with Father and Holladay drew
up, and immediately the team was unharnessed, and our fresh
team put on. As the harness was taken off the wheelers,
Father said, "You boys put your saddles on these, as they are
not the least tired, and be ready to start as soon as the team
is hitched up, and you keep close behind us, understand." We
said, "Yes."
When he had got on the stage beside the driver, lie reached
under the seat and brought out some bread that had been
baked in a skillet and was dry "and very haro. Breaking the
cake in two, he gave one part to Bolly and the other to me.
Bolly looked towards the creek. Father saw him and said,
"No, there is not time for that. Come and we'll start for the
station." The boys that had lost their mules had reported
to Father that they had eaten all of our grnb, and that we
must have gone back to our station, therefore he would not get
the change of animals he had planned for.
"Who were the boys that were there?" said he. On be-
ing told that they were Bolly and Howard, he said, "Give me
a loaf of bread for the, for I will find them at their post if
alive." Well, when we got within sight of the station, about
one-half mile from it, we got down to a walk, and when we
arrived Father had already gone on his way, but had left direc-
tions to the cook how and what to prepare for us to eat, being
afraid we might overfeed ourselves if we had our own :vay
about it. He also knew that we could not eat much of the
bread he had given us without water, which we did not have,
and in fact did not get down more than a couple of bites on
the whole sixteen miles to the station.
Here let me say at the very place and spot where I had
invented the importable pipe, were, a few years later, built by
Judge Dougherty, a forty-stamp quartz mill, which was in
operation the last time I visited the canyon.
41. MAIL CARRIER.
Father was George Chorpening's agent, or partner, when
he had the contract to carry the mail from Salt Lake to Cali-
fornia. I don't know whether he had the contract to the east
or not, but I know Father's division was from Salt Lake to
Placerville, California, and, as the time came that money failed
212
PIONEERING THE WEST
to come to pay off the men or other expenses, Father was
forced to dig up and use every resource to keep the Mail going,
expecting v,,ery ^y *-9 receive the n^uney thai/ he had Leen
told by letter from the~boss had been sent by a trusty agent
b wa of California.
OVERLAND MAIL CO,
j&*4i4>^*i^ t?**"*-*i~~
Facsimile of Appointment as Mail Agent, Salt Lake to Carson,
Mall stage coach on Overland line. T*romfnent in Pioneering: and the develop-
ment of the great west.
PIONEERING THE WEST 213
* About the year 1856, after Father had selected the route
for the mail line to California, Howard R. Egan, then sixteen
years of age, drove the first mail coach from Salt Lake City
to California. As the stations were not then stocked, it is
probable that the same team and coach went clear through,
camping on the way.
Father afterwards learned that this trusty agent was a.
connection of the boss, and when he arrived in San Francisco
he was either robbed of the whole amount or had gambled it
away. Tt was supposed it melted by the latter process. Chor-
pening had written that he would soon have another payment
from the government and for Father to keep the mails run-
ning as long as possible, but after a few months there came a
change of the contractors.
Ben Holliday and associates re-stocked the line with men,
teams and coaches. I was at Willow Springs at the time and,
not wishing to work as hostler, went to Kuby Vallev, where
Father and his partner, W. H. Sherman, had a good-sized sup-
ply store. Besides, they owned the station and were doing a
good business, especially in the season when emigrants were
traveling through. I had not received a dollar for thirteen
months, and when I next saw Father he offered to give mo an
outfit and furnish the necessary supplies if I would go down
the valley and pick out a good place and start a farm, and he
would wait till I raised the grain to pay him back. That
sounded good enough to me, so I went down about twenty
miles and took up the first farm in Ruby Valley.il
It was a fine location, a mountain stream coming out of a
heavy timbered canyon ran through the land down to the lake
in the valley below, with an immense strip of meadow land all
around it. T built a log house and did some plowing, trying
to get ready for fall planting, when I received word from
Father to pull up stakes and come to Deep Creek and to start
at once, not to wait another day, as he had learned through
Dimmick Huntington that the Indians were going to make a
raid on that country. I did not believe it, but then, Father
must be obeyed. So as soon as the ox teams could travel there
I arrived at Deep Creek.
It was understood I was to be a partner with Father and
brother Erastus. but after some time something at Ruby Sta-
tion did not suit Father so he had Erastus move out there and
take charsre of the business, with the understanding, as I take
it, of being a partner witli Father in that concern.
But after somo time there seems to have been a different
plan mapped out. For one day I received a list of animals,
214
PIONEERING THE WEST
wagons, chains, plows, harrow teeth, milk pans, twelve cows,
and in fact about everything that would be useful on a farm.
The cat was out of the bag. My brother was going to farming
the place I had started to. I don't remember how long he
worked the farm before he received a notice* that he was called
on a mission to England. I know that he immediately stopped
the plowing, made arrangements to lease or sell the farm,
started for Bountiful, where he left his wife in the care of
her people, and went on his mission.
Although we are not giving a biography of each member
of the family, it is considered advisable to add here to what
Howard R. has said above: that Erastus, or R. E. Egan, be-^
came President of the Birmingham, Conference in England dur-
ing his mission, and after he returned he went again to the
Ruby Farm for a short time, but sold out and moved to
Richard Erastns
I'ony !' v press Rider,
Bishoii of South Bountiful.
Address, Byron, Wyo.
PIONEERING THE WEST 215
Bountiful, where he was Bishop of South Bountiful for very
many years. He was among the first Pony Express riders,
riding from Salt Lake to Rush Valley. He took a special mis-
sion to hunt up the genealogy of the family. He went to the
old home in Ttilernore, Kings county, Ireland, which was Duilt
by our Great Grandfather Bernard Egan some time in the
eighteenth century, for Grandfather Howard Egan was born in
it in 1782 and Father, Major Howard Egan was born in it in
1815. (See page 10.) He obtained all he could of the
genealogy of relatives there, finding that Bernard had two
sons, Howard and William, and that all that was left of Will-
iam's descendants was Edward, a bachelor living in the old
home, as shown in the picture, as he stood in the doorway.
After returning from there he went to Montreal, Canada,
where Grandfaher removed the family to, after the death of
Grandmother Ann Meade Egan. There he found a considerable
number of the family which he has faithfully recorded, but
which we do not have access to at the present time. He also
visited Massachusetts and New Hampshire and obtained a con-
siderable genealogy of Mother's relations, the Parsleys and
Caverlys, and has done what temple work could be done at that
time for them. A few years ago he moved from Bountiful to
Byron, Wyo., in the Big Horn Basin, where he now lives. His
posterity is given in the Appendix. The family organization
may some day give his biography more fully, as well as some
other members of the family.
To show that Father was agent for the eastern division of
the Overland Mail Line, in answer to Howard's inquiry in a
preceding paragraph and to show the nature of some of his
business we submit a couple of letters, as follows :
Superintendent's Office, Indian Affairs, Utah.
Great Salt Lake City, June 17, 1859.
Howard Egan, Esq., General Jkfail Agent,
Sir: Please inform me in writing, as soon as convenient,
of Indian depredations committed on the United States mail
property under your charge, as communicated to me verbally
this day. I remain.
Very respectfully your obt. servant,
(Signed) J. FOURNEY. Supt. Iml. Affairs. U. T.
Salt Lake City, March 14, 1861.
Col. Benj'n. Davis, Supt. Indian Affairs. V. T.
Dear Sir: Mr. W. H. Shearman informed me that during
an interview with you yesterday, you stated that you had in-
216 PIONEERING T'HE WEST
formation of foul play having been used towards an Indian
who was missing at Willow Springs, on the C. & S. L. M.
Line, by one or more of the employees of said line. As I have
no knowledge whatever of any person or persons, in my em-
pi oy, having been engaged in any such nefarious transaction,
you will confer a favor upon me by referring me to your
informant.
My position, sir, entitles me to demand this information,
or else that the subject be never again mentioned either in
private or public connection with my name.
You will oblige me by replying at your earliest conven-
ience. Very respectfully,
(Signed) HOWARD EGAN,
Agent Eastern Division, C. & S. L. Mail Line.
42. FATHER'S INDIAN DOCTOR.
While Father was out west on the mail line one hot spring-
like day before the snow had melted, he had his eyes burned
so bad that he was completely blinded and could not stand the
least bit of light, and although he kept them bandaged with
dead tea leaves, they did not seem to get any better.
After a couple of days of misery, two Indians came to
the station where he was. One of them asked one of the men,
"Egan sick?" The man said, ''Yes, eye sick. No see. Snow
no good." "Me see Egan."
The man told Father that there was an Indian there that
wanted to see him. "Well, let him come in." He did so.
The Buck came up close to Father and said, "Big sick?"
Father said, pointing to his eyes, "Eyes big sick; you savey
fix them." He had hardly got the words out of his mouth
when the Indian jumped and caught Father's head in both
hands, and at the same time pushing the bandage out of the
way, placed his mouth over orue eye and set to sucking with
all his strength.
Father said he thought the buck would suck his eye out,
if not his brains too. He tried his best to push the Indian
off, but he only staved and sucked the faster. But just be-
fore Father had made up his mind to choke him off, the
Indian stepped back a little and spit up as much or more than
a tablespoonful of blood. After a little rest he said, "Fix
more?" Father said, "Fix little, eye big sick." "Alright,
little fix." But when he got fastened to the other eye he
worked just as hard as before, with the same result, Father
trying to push him off, but no go, he was after the blood and
he would not let go till he got it.
PIONEERING THE, WEST 217
After about one hour the buck said, "A little more fix
eye?" Father said as his eyes felt to be considerable better,
he thought he could stand a small dose of the same medicine,
and told the fellow, "Fix little bit." Well, he did, but with
just about the same force. When he got through he said, "Big
Chief see all right two days," which proved true. In two days
after the operation Father joined the pack train and went to
Salt Lake, his eyes perfectly cured of snow blindness. He says
he would sooner stand the Indian treatment than to suffer
any length of time without it. There was no pain after the
dose, hut plenty and very severe before.
43. A TRIP TO RUBY WITH BEEF CATTLE.
In the fall of 1862, Father wanted to send fifty or sixty
head of beef cattle from Salt Lake to Ruby Valley, and as I
was at home on a furlough, he did not ask me if I would drive
them out, but said. "I want you to take these animals out to
Ruby, and you must start tomorroAv, for they need them there
now. Everything is ready, a wagon loaded with about a ton
of supplies, three yoke of broken oxen, two ponies for the
two Indian night herders, and an ox driver or teamster." My-
self and riding pony made up the whole outfit. I was told to
make as good time as I could, but get the beef through in
the best shape possible, and keep a good watch on the ani-
mals, as there was a good deal of stealing going on about that
time.
All went well, although there was a sleet storm when we
started from a ranch just south of the city, where the cattle
had been pastured while the outfit was got ready. The sec-
ond day out we had, by noon, crossed the Jordan and made
our dinner camp on the west side of the divide that separates
Utah and Cedar valleys. While we were eating dinner, Lot
Huntington rode into camp, ate dinner with us, and during
the conversation I learned that he was going out west and
might join us later on. and travel with us as far as Ruby
Vallev. That was the last I ever saw of Lot.
The next night we camped in Rush Vallev; about ten or
twelve miles east of thp Faust Mail Station. We were camped
close to the road and in the night heard a stage, going west,
pass by. I thought it strange, for it was not a mail day. as
they were only running tri-weekly at that time. And I was
more puzzled when, next morning, as we were about to move
camp, another stage came from the west and stopped opposite
our camp fire and Porter Rockwell, the sheriff, or deputy,
218 PIONEERING THE WEST
sang out: " Hello kids, all right?" "Yes, all right so far."
"Good! Your Father told me to tell you whose ox is that?"
(pointing to an animal standing a couple of rods away). "You
had better ask Father when you see him. These cattle at pres-
ent are every one of them mine. What did Father say?"
"Oh, all right. He said for you to be very careful and keep a
good watch on the cattle and guard them well."
I noticed that those on the coach, I could see. were all
heavily armed. I supposed there had been a rabbit hunt, as
there were on frequent occasions in the fall. When we reached
Faust Station we found there had been a hunt, not a rabbit
hunt, but a man hunt, and the men that were hunted were in
that stage coach with the sheriff. One, Lot Huntington, being
dead, and the other a prisoner. The latter was killed while
trying to escape after arriving in Salt Lake City.
I could give more details of the affair as I heard it at
the station but. as I did not see it, will only say that it was
afterwards reported that a certain gang had planned to cap-
ture my herd of beef before I could get them to Ruby, drive
them south to the Simpson's, and trail them west to California,
where they would sell for a hundred dollars a head. Quite a
tempting bate for the speculating trio of saloon bums. Well,
they could have taken the whole outfit very easily by coming
and joining us and taking their choice of time and place for
the coup, as I was well acquainted with them and supposed
they were good friends, although I never had any deal with
them, or played with them as boys. Though some were neigh-
bors, they were a class older than my chums or I. If there
was a plot laid for me, old Porter burst the bubble and I got
through safe.
When we arrived at Simpson Springs the pony rider told
us we could not cross the river bed (seven miles west) until
the road was repaired, as there had been a big flood that had
torn the whole bottom out, road and all. The rider on the
previous trip, going west, as he started down the bank, heard
a sound like a very heavy wind among trees. He stopped to
listen; the sound was coming from the east and increasing
rapidly. He put spurs to the pony and, just as he made the
opposite side of the bed, he could see a wall of water, brush
and other debris, twelve or fifteen feet high, spread from
bank to bank, rolling down the bed at race horse speed. If he
had been one-fourth of the distance back across the bed, when
he first saw the flood, he could not have escaped with his
life.
PIONEERING THE WEST 219
When we arrived there, by a little exploring and zig-zag-
ing, we made across with not much loss of time. But what a
wreck of country! The whole bottom of the old river bed
had been covered with a thick growth of very large sagebrush;
all had been torn out root and branch, and the level bottom
that had been, was now gulled and gouged in a terrible fashion.
There had been no storm at this place, but there had been seen,
that morning, a heavy storm on the mountains about seven or
eight miles to the east, and there was perhaps a cloudburst, for
a common rain over a sandy country could not have done the
job.
That river bed was no place for a station, but they built
one there and dug a well that furnished very good, but a little
brackish, water, which they hauled to the Dugway Station,
where there were three men and a change of horses for the
mail coach. One man tended the horses and acted as cook. The
other two were digging a well for water. I was let down that
well when they had reached a depth of one hundred and thir-
teen feet. I have never seen anything like that before or since.
The surface soil at this place is a white clay that is very sticky
when wet. The walls of this well are of the same material
from top to bottom and about the same dampness from three
feet down to the bottom, where I cut my name in the side
about two feet above. The wall was very smooth and plumb,
no need of curbing and no danger of ever caving in. Some
time after men were put to work boring with a well auger in
the bottom. They bored some forty feet and found no
change. Then the job of trying more to find water there was
given up and it made a nice place to dump the stable cleanings.
When I reached the desert just east of Fish Springs, the
road was very bad, mud hub deep, and my work oxen gave out
when I was about four or five miles from the Springs and
could not budge the wagon another foot. I had the driver
unhitch from the wagon, take some grub for himself and the
Indians, who had jrone ahead with the cattle, and also take
my pony and drive the team to water and feed, and come back
uext morning with one of the Indians to help get the wagon
over to hard ground.
When they came back next day we moved the wagon
about one-half a mile, where the road was still worse than
before. There were three empty coaches stuck in the mud
within a half mile of us. Well, I simply had to get out of
there some way. There was a part of the load I must not leave
alone. So this is the way I managed it: We had a double
cover on the wagon. We took them off and spread them out
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on the mud alongside the wagon and loaded the most of the
valuables on it and folded the sides and ends tight over all,
hitched the oxen to the end and away we went as easy as
pulling a sleigh over a good snow road.
It was easy after that. All was over but the wagon by
night. Next day I sent the driver and one Indian back to get
the wagon if they had to take it all apart and haul it on the
wagon cover, which did not appear to be damaged at all after
about ten miles' drag with a load over the creamy alkali, sand-
less but sticky mud. The inside of the wagon wheels had the
appearance of an old-fashioned wooden butter bowl, in this case
turned by contact with the bolster of the wagon. On the out-
side there would be no hub or spoke in sight, and mud, would
pile on till of its own weight a portion would fall off, but at
next turn of the wheel would be on the job again.
Well, we made it across all right and had no more trouble
lill we passed Butte Station about a mile, where there is a
very steep pull going west and, as the snow had drifted very
ieavily over the crest, our team gave out just about a couple
of rods below the summit and, as there was not expected a
mail stage for at least ten or twelve hours, we left the wagon
right in the center of the road where there, was no passing
around it with a wagon or sleigh. So when the stage that night
came up to that point, the driver unhitched his leaders, hooked
on the back of our wagon and dragged it back down the hill
to near the bottom. This we did not know till next morning,
when the driver and one of the Indians went back after the
wagon, as we were camped some distance off the road and
had not heard the' Mail pass. My driver made some bad talk,
so the Indian said, when he found the wagon down at the
bottom, but he hooked on and did not have the least bit of
trouble getting over, and when he came to camp was in good
spirits and seemed to think it had ail worked out for the
best.
I haven't the time or space to tell of how we lassoed and
snubbed up aijd yoked up a couple of the beef steers just
before we got to Mountain Springs, the last station between us
and Ruby. The road through this little valley was all staked
out as the snow was very deep and only traveled by sleighs,
but thanks to our extra team and with frequent digging out,
we got through, the beef helping to break the road. Ruby, at
last, but beef not as fat as when we started, but all there.
44. SHORT LINE CUT OFF.
I was at Rush. Valley Station (H. J. Faust, station
keeper). This was the end of the first express ride from Salt
PIONEERING THE WEST 221
Lake City. The next ride was from here to Willow Springs
across the desert. The stations at this time were only half
as many as they were later, being some twenty-five or thirty
miles apart and at some places more than that. Well, the ex-
press came in from the east, the next rider was not well and
was afraid he could not stand the ride. I volunteered to go in
his place, and arrived at Simpson Springs at the edge of the
desert all right.
From here the road runs in a southwesterly direction
isteven miles, to River Bed, then keeping the same direction to
the Dug-way, then over the mountain, taking many turns to the
salt wells, then west around the point of mountain where the
road ran nearly west across the worst part of the desert. Noth-
ing but mud grows there and that seems to get taller the
more you sink in it, and the harder it is to get out. It .then
goes north, past Fish Springs, around the point of the moun-
tain and back to the south, about opposite of Fish Springs to
where Boyd Station was afterwards built. From here the
road ran in a westerly straight line to the Willow Spring Sta-
tion, thus making a large semi-circle, the points of which were
many miles closer together straight across than by the road.
After leaving Simpson's about three miles I thought (as
I had many times thought before), it was a shame we had to
go so many miles around to get a little ways to the west. At
any rate, boy fashion, I left the road and took a straight line
for Willow Springs. The first half of the distance I was able
to make very good time, then the desert began to get softer as
I went till finally about one inch of water was standing all
over the surface as far as I could see in any direction. The
pony sank to his fetlocks in the mud, that made it slow
traveling.
After about five miles of this kind I came to a little
higher ground where I could make better time. In looking
back I could see the little knobs of mud sticking up above
the water. It seemed to me I could see them for miles. Well,
I made W T illow Springs all right and had saved a good nianv
hours' time. I expected to get considerable praise for this
exploit, but nix.
This is what I got: The next time I saw Father it was
for only a few moments; he asked me what kind of traveling
I found it to be across the way I took with that express.
After telling him. he said, "Well, don't ever do anything 1 like
that asrain without orders." That was all, and plentv. T
never did, for that was a cold bath for me. I would like to
cross that route again and measure it.
222 PIONEERING THE WEST
45. IRRIGATION.
When Father and his partner (Mr. Severe) had got some
land cleared, plowed and seeded to wheat on their new loca-
tion at Deep Creek, Mr. Severe running the place while
Father tended to his mail business, Father, in passing that
way, stopped over long 1 enough to ride over the place with
the boss to see what had b.een done and lay plans for the
future.
In going along a small field of grain Father said, "This
looks fine, but don't it need irrigating!" "Yes," said the
boss, "I sent a couple of hands early this morning with their
dinners to turn the creek and water it. I wonder where they
are." This was about the middle of the afternoon.
In going around a clump of willows they found the two
men lying on their backs, on the west side of the willows,
both sound asleep, paying no heed to the sting of flies or
mosquitos. After they had been awakened Father said,
"Boys, if you had wanted to take a little rest why didn't you
get in the shade?" "Why," said one, "it was shady here
when we laid down." They must have been very tired, for
they had lain there at least six or eight hours.
Live Irrigating Machine. It was this same field, a few
years later, I sent a couple of green hands to work putting a
dam in a creek to turn the water and irrigate. They were
gone about half a day, came back and said "there could not
be a dam made there without lumber." "I'll see about that
and prove different."
Calling my Indian (Ned) I told him what I wanted done
and sent one of the men with him to help him put in the dam
and irrigate that field. Just before sundown the white man
came back and said the Indian had motioned for him to
leave. He didn't know what for. I told him I would know
when the Indian came in. The Indian said, "Keep that white
man out of the wheat or he will dig it all up," so I let Ned
have his way about it.
Next day I was going to take a ride down the valley, and
told Mr. Muncey, the operator, if he wanted to go there was
a horse in the stable that he could ride. Much pleased, he
accepted the invitation, and enjoyed a long ride. In return-
ing, I thought I would see how Ned was getting along with the
irrigating, so we came up through the fields that way. We
came to where Ned was at work. He had stuck his shovel
where he could see it, and with pants and shoes off was
stooping over and with his fingers spread out, was going
PIONEERING THE WEST 223
backwards, making little drills for the water to reach the dry
places. When Muncey saw that, he said, "Well, I'll be d d
if that ain't the first live irrigating machine I ever saw," and
it did look comical.
Coyote in Chicken House. At Deep Creek we had a large
chicken house built of logs, the door of which faced the
kitchen door, and about forty feet from it, and on the west side
of the yard that was formed, which was about sixty feet
square. The stables were on the south side, the bunk-house
on the east, the row of buildings (double row), the whole length
of the north line. The west room was the telegraph office,
and in which the operator slept. About sixteen feet west of
the office was the northeast corner of a field, and in this
corner was our garden fenced off along the road, and from
the corner down back of the hen house.
It was just at dusk as Father came out of the stable, he
saw a coyote enter the hen house, the door of which had not
yet been closed for the night. He ran as fast as he could and
pulled the door shut; he then ran to the telegraph office for
the shotgun that most always could be found there. "Ed (the
operator's name), hand me the shotgun, quick!" "What is
it?" "Oh, only a coyote in the hen house."
In place of handing out the gun he came out with it, and
excited, ran for the hen house, but seeing the door shut, he
said, "Where is the coyote?" "Inside," said Father; "give
me the gun and I will get him." "No, let me shoot him.
Open the door." The door was opened, but it was so dark
inside that they could not see very plain. But finally Ed said,
"I see him" and he fired. There was a .terrible commotion
in that hen house, for there were about one hundred chickens
and a coyote very badly scared.
The coyote was trying to escape by way of the roosts,
knocking the chickens to the floor, but it was not chicken he
wanted just then. Father said, "No use to shoot again till
we get a lantern so we can see the thief. Stay in the door
till I get a light." "Alright, hurry up." When a light was
finally turned into that house, there squatted the coyote in
one corner watching for a chance to spring out of the door,
and the chickens fairly climbing all over him.
After getting the light in the best position to show up
the coyote, Ed fired again, causing another outburst of
squacks and cacklings. When the smoke cleared away, Father
dragged the coyote outside and then picked up five or six
large chickens that Ed had shot. He said, "See here, young
man, what you have done, and on purpose, too, I believe."
224 PIONEERING THEWEST
The next morning Father was up early. He took the
coyote that had fro/en stiff during the night and set it up
about thirty yards from the house in the garden and propped
it up with some sticks to appear as if alive. Then going to
the office, he called Ed to hand out the gun. "What for?"
"A coyote in the garden the gun quick before he goes."
The gim comes and Ed with it. "Where is he?" and turn-
ing around the corner of the house, said, "I see him; that's
my hide," and he fired. The coyote seemed to squat a little.
Father said, "You missed him." Ed fired again. This time
the coyote fell down.
"I got him this time," he said, and stood the gun up
against the house while he climbed over the fence to get the
coyote to place beside the one he killed last night. When he
took hold of it he found that it was frozen stiff. He then
knew that he had been"" sold, and turning around to accuse
Father, he found that there was no Father to be seen, for
he was in the messroom telling the boys how Ed had killed
a dead coyote, and when breakfast was called, every one Ed
met had a grin on his face.
At dinner when all were seated around the table, the
cook brought in the final dish, which w r as the cooked chickens.
Placing it on the table he looked at Ed and nodded. Ed said,
"Is this the chickens the coyote killed?" "I guess so, for
they were plumb full of shot." Then the "Ha! Ha! Ha!"
all around.
While we are talking of coyotes, and just to prove that
there were a few out there, let me tell you that one night one
of the men that slept in the bunk-house went outside and left
the door open, and the blacksmith, whose bunk faced the door,
saw a coyote come into the room. He kept still till the men
came back, then he said, "Close the door quick! There is a
coyote in here."
The man was frightened and feared the covote would bite
liis bare legs, and attempted to go out again, when the black-
smith said, "Stand ^till a minute while I lisrht the candle.
Then we can 'set"' htm.*' The man obeyed, and when the light
was n v ade, there in one corner, and under the bnnks crouched
the covote, which was soon made ready for skinning.
Another dark evening one of the men was passing along
by the hoar pen with a lantern. He heard the old sow making
a terrible fuss. He went to the side of the pen and swung the
lantern over into the pen. then he could see the oH sow
backed ur> in a corner with her six or eight youns" rnsrs behind
her, her bristles sticking straight up and her mouth open. Tn
PIONEERING THE WEST
225
the opposite corner crouched the cause of all that commotion,
a large coyote, who was either after a young pig or a supper
out of the hotr trough. Well, his hide was worth one dollar.
PART IV.
THRILLING EXPERIENCES OF
PRE-FRONTIER LIFE, INDIAN CUSTOMS
AND LEGENDS.
SEC. I. INDIAN PRACTICE.
46. A LITTLE SURPRISE
To a Small Band of Indians, and This Is How It Came About.
The express rider at Shell Creek was too sick to under-
take the ride, and I volunteered to take his place. The ride
at that time was from Shell to Butte, there being no station
at Egan Canyon at that time. Therefore the one pony had to
go about thirty-two miles, fourteen of them being to Egan.
I started just at dark and made pretty good time, but being
careful to not overdo the pony, but give him frequent breath-
ing spells, at which times I would let him go on the walk, and
was doing so when I was about in the middle of Egan Canyon
and, just before turning a sharp point ahead of me, I could
see the next turn of that, and on the side of the hill towards
me the light of a fire was shining. These two turns were
about seventy-five or a hundred yards apart, but the curve
the creek took between the points made it some further. As
it did not run close to the side left quite a large flat, which
was smooth and level.
In going very carefully along and keeping a sharp lookout
for a sentinel, I reached the point where I could see the camp.
They were on both sides of the road and about in the center
of the bend. Well, I had to make up my mind very quickly
as to what I should do. Should I turn back and go north to
another canyon about six or eight miles, where there might be
another party of Indians, if they had planned to catch the
express rider? I could not wait long, as their dogs might scent
me and give the alarm.
Well, I soon decided to go straight, so, taking my pistol
in my hand, I rode on as close as I dared, then striking in the
spurs and giving an awful yell, a few jumps of the pony brought
me to about the middle of the camp, when my gun began to
PIONEERING THE WEST 227
talk, though pointed up in the air, and my yells accompanied
each shot. I got a glimpse of several Indians who were doing
their best to make themselves scarce, not knowing but there
might be a large party of whites after them.
When. I made the next turn, I was out in the little valley
at the head of Egan Canyon and had two trails that I could
take to finish. I chose the shortest but the roughest and got
home all right. Three days later I came back through the can-
yon with a companion. We saw where they had had their
camp-fires, and where they had fastened a lariat across the
road, but I did not see one that night and don't know how
I passed it.
Later I got it from some friendly Indians that there had
been a trap set to catch an express rider for the purpose of
seeing what he carried to make him travel so fast. They had
placed a party in each of the canyons used, when suspicious of
the other. They had planned it pretty good, but it did not
work and they never tried it again there, but if I had turned
back and tried the other canyon, probably there would have
been one " Express" lost.
47. LASSO PRACTICE: WHERE I GOT LEFT.
It was while I was building the new Butte station that I
took a jaunt to the north along the range of mountains, in
hopes of locating a log big enough and long enough to make
a ridge pole for the rock house. It needed to be thirty feet
long. After going ten or twelve miles and not finding one, I
was just swinging around to go back on another route when I
came to a family camp of Indians. Most of them I knew, and
the father was a good friend of mine.
After joining the circle that was sitting around a small
fire, we had our peace smoke and I told them what I was
hunting. The old man said he thought I could find what I
wanted across the valley east in the next range and pointed
out the canyon, where afterwards I found what I wanted. I
had been dragging my rawhide lasso. We do this to keep them
more pliable. When I was ready to start back, I thought I
would coil the rope up and tie it to the saddle in the usual
way, but, boy fashion, I must have some fun. So getting on
my pony I made a large loop, and before they knew what was
coming, I threw it over four or five of them, which caused
much laughter. And the old man said, "That would be a good
way to catch a Squaw. "
I said, "Yes, I will try it on your girl." So I tried. She
was very good at dodging, but at the third throw I caught her
tight, which seemed to plague her considerably, for she said I
could not catch her again so easily.
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When about to start home, I swung the rope in the usual
way, and looking at the girl, said "Run!" She was off in an
instant, but instead of running around the camp she dodged
among the trees. After some chasing I was about to throw
the loop when she ran around a large tree. My pony being a
good lasso animal gave a quick jump aside to head her off and
ran under a low limb of a tree which caught under the rim
of my saddle, breaking the cinch, and I was on the ground.
The old man was the first to reach me and, finding that
I had not been hurt, said, "Shall we try to catch your horse?"
I said there was no use unless they had something that could
run faster than he could, but I would give any of them five
cups of flour that would carrj^ my saddle to the station and
I would walk back. "Alright," said the old man, and, point-
ing to the saddle, said, "You take it" (to the girl). She got
the things together and started off. Going about fifty yards
she stopped until I got through talking to the old man and
got started, when she turned and went ahead.
That was as close to her as I could get; the faster I would
go the faster she would. When I reached the station she was
standing beside the door, saddle still on her back. I asked her
if she was tired and wanted to stay all night. ' ' No, flour. ' ' I
said, "Soon dark; aren't you afraid to go now?" "No afraid
to go; afraid to stay here." So I gave her the flour and a
chunk of cold bread. She asked for a drink of water and after
getting it she started down the hill on the run for their camp.
About a year after, she came to the station with a band
of Indians and camped near. She was married. When I went
to their camp I saw that she nad a fire, by which she and her
man sat. I said, l ' I see that a man did catch you. " " Yes, but
he did not have a horse and saddle," and seemed to think
the joke was on me. I guess it was, but I don't like to own it.
48. EATING ANTS.
When I lived at Deep Creek I had occasion to send some
men and teams south to what we called "Fifteen Mile Canyon"
to get some saw logs down to the loading place. They were
to stay there till Saturday, then come home with a couple of
loads. When they had been gone a couple of days I thought
I would go up and see how they were getting along. I got
there just before dinner time, while the rest were piling the
logs that had been brought out of the canyon.
There were five or six Squaws sitting around, and \vhen
I unsaddled my pony I noticed that there was a great many
very large ant-hills all around the place. I had heard that the
Indians often eat them, so I thought I would see for myself.
PIONEERING THE WEST
So, pointing to a large hill, I asked one of the Squaws if
Indians eat them. She said, "Yes." "Are they good?"
"Yes." "Well, I am very hungry. Hurry up and get some
and cook them just the same as Indians like them. Hurry up."
She gave her Papoose to another Squaw and, taking a large
flat basket arrangement, pushed the top of the hill to one side
and then scooped up about a peck of ants, gravel, dirt and all.
Taking it to one side she spread on the ground a piece of flour
sack, then taking the pan or basket in her hands, gave it an
up and down motion at the side opposite from her. You ought
to see those ants roll over the side and fall on the cloth ! But
not a bit of gravel or speck of dirt went with them. I have
often seen the Squaws cleaning grass seed or wheat the same
way, only the wheat or seed was left on the pan, and the chaff
and dirt went over the edge.
After she had gone to the hill two or three times, she had
collected about a quart of ants and eggs, and as I acted like
I was very hungry, she asked for a kettle to cook them in. I
asked the boys for the loan of their wash bucket. She took
the bucket and went to the creek, got what water she wanted,
piled the ants in and put it on the fire.
Then she asked me for some salt. I said, "Indians don't
use salt." She said, "No, but they like it but don't have it."
I gave her a handful of salt, as I did not care how she seasoned
the mess. She would put in a little, stir it up well with a stick,
then taste, put in a little more, then taste, and so on till she
was satisfied that the right amount was used, then she brought
the balance of the salt to me. I told her to keep it, pleasing
her very much.
Then she asked me for a little flour. I asked her if
Indians used flour when they cooked ants. She smiled and
said they would if they had it, but she was cooking for a "Boss
White Man" and wanted it to taste good. She got about one-
half pint of flour. After that was all stirred in, she asked me
for some of that black stuff the white men shake on tneir food.
That was pepper, of course. I gave her a small amount, and
when that was added she gave it a final stir, set it off the fire
and said, "Now you can eat."
I got a tin plate and tablespoon and told her to put some
on that. She did so. "Now, let me see you eat it," I said.
She laughed, so did the rest of them. Just then the cook said
dinner. I told the woman that they might eat it all, as my
dinner was ready. Well, they soon cleaned up the whole mess,
besides some bread and potatoes we had to spare.
230 PIONEERING THE WEST
49. INDIAN CRICKET DRIVE.
I was on a three days' horseback trip in the wilderness,
and had for a companion the Indian called "Egan Jack," a
trusty, intelligent buck of about thirty years of age. We were
on a prospecting or exploring trip to the northwest of Deep
Creek, or Ibapah as the Indians called it. At one place, as we
came out of a canyon onto the bench land, we saw quite a num-
ber of Indians that were quite busy, some digging 1 trenches and
some gathering arms full of the tall wheat grass that grew on
the flat in the bottom of the canyon. I asked Jack what they
were doing. He said, ''Catching crickets for bread." "Well,
we will go and see how they do it." We went, and'saw that
they had dug quite a number of trenches about a foot wide and
a foot deep and about thirty or forty feet long, and around
like a new moon with the horns uphill.
They had been a number of days at the work, but were now
ready for their cricket drive, having five or six of the trenches
strung across the bench, the end of each trench joined, or was
very close to the end of another. They covered these with a
thin layer of stiff wheat grass straw, for what purpose I did
not know then, but I thought they were making a mistake,
for the crickets could crawl over the ditch on it, but I must
wait and see.
As it was getting the hottest time of the day, and there-
fore the best time for the drive, they were soon ready, and
probably hurried their best to show, their visitors how they
done it, and at the same time get a little help. Well, there was
a few crickets scattered all around, but were more of them
above the trenches and near the foothills. But I thought they
were going to a great deal of trouble for a few crickets, why
not catch them by hand, we will see.
These trenches ran in a north and south direction, the land
sloping to the west. The Indians, men, women and children,
divided into two parties, one going to the north end and the
other to "the south end, all carrying a bunch of grass in each
hand. They went single file towards the foothills, and mak-
ing the distance between the parties wider than the length of
the trenches. When they had gone what they thought far
enough, as judged by the scarcity of grass left by the black
insects, the party closed in and, walking back and forth swing-
ing their grass bunches they gradually worked down toward
the trenches.
We followed them on horseback and I noticed that there
were but very few crickets left behind. As they went down,
PIONEERING THE WEST 231
the line of crickets -ivu thicker and thicker till the ground
ahead of the drivers was as black as coal with the excited,
tumbling mass of crickets.
A cricket when disturbed can jump about one foot down
hill at a jump and but half that distance up hill, but will never
jump up hill if it has any show to avoid it. Well, as we neared
the trenches I noticed the Indians were going down slower.
Jack said this was to give the crickets time to crawl through
the grass into the trenches.
When all had been driven in the Indians set fire to the
grass they had in their hands and scattered it along on top
of that they had over the trenches, causing a big blaze and
smoke, which soon left the crickets powerless to crawl out,
if any were left alive when the grass had all burned up, which
did not take many minutes. I rode along the line and in some
places the trenches were over half full of the dead and legless
crickets. I went down below the trenches and I venture to say
there were not one out of a thousand crickets that passed th9se
trenches.
They are a scary and excitable, but a clumsy insect, that
hardly ever when excited land on their feet, but roll over,
then turn their head down hill and jump again. If not mo-
lested they seldom ever jump, but travel by crawling. Now the
bucks and children had done their part and were sitting around
in groups. The squaws were busy gathering up the game.
They had large conical shaped baskets; some of them
would hold over two bushels. These the women carry on their
backs, held in place by a flat band either over their foreheads
or about the shoulders. Now here is what I saw a squaw do-
ing that had a small baby strapped to a board or a willow
frame, which she carried on her back with a strap over her
forehead :
When at work she would stand or lay the frame and kid
where she could see it at any time. She soon had a large
basket as full as she could crowd with crickets. Laying it
down near the kid, she took a smaller basket and filled it. I
should judge she had over four bushels of the catch. But
wait, the Indians were leaving for their camp about three or
four miles away. This squaw sat down beside the larger
basket, put the band over her shoulders, got on her feet with
it, then took the strapped kid and placed him on top, face up,
picked up the other basket and followed her lord and master,
who tramped ahead with nothing to carry except his own lazy
carcass. There were bushels of crickets left in the trenches,
which I suppose they would gather later in the day.
232 PIONEERING THE WEST
Having- seen enough there we rode on across a narrow val-
ley, and in the foothills came to a large camp of Indians, the
chief of whom I was well acquainted with, and we decided to
stay all night with them, as we did not know and they could
not inform us as to the exact location of the band we wanted
to visit. We were also getting hungry. We had no provisions
of our own left, except a couple of rabbits I had killed on the
way.
They treated us fine and we had a good time telling arid
hearing the news. Jack took one of the rabbits and put it to
roast on the fire, the other he gave to the chief. When the
rabbit was done to his liking, Jack asked the chief if he had
any bread ; he nodded and called in a low voice the name of
his squaw, who came into the tent at once. When told to
bring some bread she went out, but returned immediately with
a cake of black bread about two inches thick and ten inches
in diameter, which she handed to me. I thought it looked
too black for pine nut bread, for the latter has a yellow cast
and this was decidedly black. Holding the bread in one hand
and pointing to it with the other, I asked her if there was pine
nut? in it. "Yes," she said unconcernedly, "is there crikets
in it?" "'Yes, yes," smilingly, "sure." Well, I handed the
cake to Jack to divide and told the squaw that I would like
some pine nuts. She soon brought in some that were all
mashed up. These T refused and asked for the "whole" pine
nuts. These were soon brought in and I commenced my supper.
The chief noticed that I was slow at shelling the nuts,
so he called a young squaw that came in with a basin of water,
setting it down near the door, washed her hands in the basin
and brought in a flat stone about one foot in diameter and
one-half inch thick and another about eight inches long and a
couple of inches in diameter. Seating herself between Jack
and me, she proceeded to put the mill in motion. She placed a
couple of hands full of nuts on the flat stone and taking the
other in both hands, gave it a rolling motion over the nuts
which cracked the shells so they fell off the kernels, which
she rolled off on a piece of sack as clean and plump as I could
shell them one at a time. ' She simply shelled them much faster
than both of us could eat them. Well, we had a good supper
and breakfast, but Jack ate my share of the bread.
When the crickets are dried the squaws grind them, feath-
ers and all, on the same mil] they grind the pine nuts or gTass
seed, making a fine flour that will keep a long time, if kept dry.
Jack says the crickets make the br^ad good, the same as sugar
PIONEERING THE WEST 233
used by the white woman in her cakes. Well, I am willing
to take his word for it, as otherwise I might s<|iiirm a little.
50. TRAPPING A COYOTE.
We were on our way for Carson City with a train of
four wagons with three yoke of oxen each and teams of six
mules and wagons loaded with produce to sell on the way and
bring back a threshing machine and other farm machinery, also
dry goods, etc., to supply our little store at Deep Creek. Our
first camp was at Antelope Springs, where we arrived just be-
fore dark. After watering and taking care of the animals,
the next job was to get supper. We had quite a variety of
foodstuff along and we soon had the meal ready, consisting
of fried bacon, boiled potatoes, pancakes, mollasses, coffee,
plenty of sugar, a few pounds of fresh butter, but no milk or
cream for the coffee.
One of the boys said that butter was a good substitute for
cream to put in the coffee, and proceeded to stir some in his
cup of coffee. One of the other boys cut a good size lump and
stirred it in the large coffee pot, so we all had to take our
coffee that way or go without it. Well, no one went with-
out hk coffee, but after that, when the butter was all gone
we missed it much. Well, after supper was over the plates,
cups, knives and forks and spoons were all pushed back of
each boy. thus making a circle around the fire, as we had
sat that way to eat our supper. The frying pans, coffee pots
and skillets were left close to the fire, where they had been
used. Not a thing was washed or taken care of and you can
safely bet that every single piece of the cooking and eating
utensils were as greasy as grease could make them.
After supper we sat around the fire talking chaff till late,
and as each became sleepy went to bed; but first, during the
evening, we appointed one of the boys to tend to the cooking
for one week. This one was the first to crawl out and very
soon found out that the whole lot of cooking and eating uten-
sils had taken wings or hud been stolen by the Indians. He
called the boys and at the same time was looking for tracks
of the thief. He soon found a tin plate, then a spoon, or cup,
then we were all on the hunt in a circle from the fire, when
one of the boys that had gone about one hundred yards from
camp yelled out that he had found one of the thieves. We all
ran to where he was and this is what we saw: A coyote with
his head in our largest coffee pot and the bail over his head
back of his oars, fast enough, but still trying to get away. He
234
PIONEERING THE WEST
was bumping against the brush at every step. He could make
no progress.
Well to make a long story short, as they say, we had lots
of fun with that coyote and the next day his hide was tacked
on one of the wagon beds. When we had finished our search,
back from the fire about one hundred and fifty yards, we
took count of the recovered articles and found that we were
out a couple of forks and a spoon. That was a cheap tariff
for leaving dirty dishes where the coyotes could get to them
and a lesson I venture none of us will ever forget.
Pioneer cottage. Several families working together.
PIONEERING THE WEST 235
SEC. II. HUNTING AND HARVESTING.
51. A RABBIT DRIVE.
One afternoon, while visiting 1 the Indians, I heard them
talking of rabbits and, asking them what it was all about, the
chief said a rabbit hunt. I said I would like to go along to
see how they done it. He seemed pleased at me taking so
much interest and said, "Good! Come tomorrow before noon,
as we want to start the drive about noon and it is quite a dis-
tance to the place. You had better come on horseback.''
About the middle of the forenoon next day I was at their
camp. Most of the hunters had already started. Going about
three or four miles, we. came to the place selected for the
drive a piece of sage and rabbit brush land about a mile in
diameter. The party I was with stopped, when we saw a fire
about a half mile to our right and soon another about the same
distance to the left, and then we could see the smoke rising a
mile ahead of us. My party soon had their torches at work and
the drive was on.
Working all around the circle and towards the center was
a continuous ring of fire and smoke, which was gradually clos-
inir iii and the rabbits were being crowded together thicker and
thicker. Each Indian, squaw and pappose had a stick about
four feet long, the only weapon they carried. A small boy or
gill was just as good as a man, and oh, the fun of it all
laughinsr and hollering and making as much noise as possible.
The rabbits got so dazed by the fire, smoke and tumult that
they simplv could not run. They would jump a few jump? and
sit up trying to see a way out. I saw dozens of them stop
within reach of the sticks and many of them were picked up
that had not been hit. When a rabbit was seen to pass out
of the human ring, someone would follow him in the smoke
and put his body in one of the piles of rabbits they had made
as they proceeded towards, the center, for they could not carry
much of the game and do their work at the same time.
When the drive was over the field was a black, fire-swept,
but still smoking patch of ground. Talk about rabbits, I am
sure there were more caught on that drive than could he
packed in a large wagon bed. It seems that the black-tailed
rabbits gather in herds or colonies and these places are noted
by the Indians. I learned afterwards that they had intended
236 PIONEERING THE WEST
to attack a smaller colony, but the chief wanted his white
friends to see a good, big- drive, and he did, and I was well
pleaded LO be (-.icoviiu, uul iljou.^lit it was taking 1 loo much the
advantage of poor Mr. Rabbit, who had no chance to save his
life.
The Indians do not like to use fire for a drive, as it takes
years for the brush to grow up again. I have seen a drive
where no fire was used, but grass nets about two and one-half
feet high and two inches or even smaller mesh. A sharp
pointed stick a few inches longer than the width of the net
was fastened across six or eight feet apart, to act as fence
posts, when the sharp end was pressed into the earth. One
buck could easily carry a role of one hundred fifty to two
hundred yards of the small twisted grass twine nets. Each
large family usually have such a role and at times, when living
apart from other families, can use them either as traps or to
drive; but then, these are only small catches.
The drive I Avitnessed was when there was six or eight
of these nets together. When the}' had decided just where to
run the nets, two of the Indians put the end sticks of their
nets together and commenced to unroll their nets, going in
opposite directions, sticking each cross stick firmly in the
ground as they unrolled, making a rabbit-proof fence. When
the first two had placed their nets, two more Indians com-
menced Avhere they ended and continued the line in the de-
sired direction.
I noticed that when they were through stringing their nets
in a kind of semicircle form, there was part of a roll of nets
not unrolled at each end. These ends, when they were ready to
drive, were strung out, but not in a circle, but flaring straight
out from the opening, making a long V-shaped mouth to the
field. When the Indians swung across this mouth they began
coming in slowly. But every rabbit that was started went into
the pen and kept running back and forth to find, a place to get
through. Vain search, for they were trapped. When the men
had reached the opening of the circle the two ends of the net
was brought in and strung across the opening, this making
a complete enclosure. Then the fun began. All the Indians were
inside with sticks, or bows and arrows, picking up the game.
Sometimes I could see at one glance five or six rnbbits that
were entangled in the netting. If the Indians were engaged
at on place getting the ones caught, the others were getting
into trouble at another place.
It seemed a little strange to me that when a rabbit run-
ning nlon<r the fence would see a man ahead of him he would
PIONEERING THE WEST ' 237
turn and run across the circle tiH he came to the fence, then
run along it till he saw someone ahead, then either make a
dive at the fence and get tangled, or take another r^n across
lots, but never stopping- or trying to hide in the brush in the
center, but seemed to know they were trapped.
It took the Indians over a half day to get as many as
they v-anl'Ml. There were many left when they took up the
nets and ucre none the worse off by their little scare.
1 have seen the black-tailed rabbits in bands so thick they
could not ?11 get in the shade of the sagebrush and I have seen
<-o\otes where there seemed to be dozens and dozens of them
in the middle of the day. standing and sitting or laying down,
and when approached too close, moving off just fast enough
to keep at a safe distance, all of them with full bellies and
acted very sleepy. I asked Jack what they were about, he
said, "Them coyotes had a rabbit drive last night and n<-w
they are resting up and sleeping." I said. "Jack, do you want
to see them run?"' (Taking my pistol.) "They won't run far,'*
said !K-. At tlie crack of the gun one tumbled down, the others
that were near jumped to their feet, some trotted off a little
distance, others merely glanced around and walked off a little
wav ai:l souat down airain.
52. MOUNTAIN RAT, FOOD FOR INDIANS.
On one of my days out I came across an old Indian going
home with his day's catch of rats. He had a large sheet iron
c-amp kettle nearly filled with them. They had all been caught
the night before by dead falls, as we call them, which con-
sists o r tu<> -ticks about three and a half or four inches long
fastened together at their centers bv a string tr-at will allow
them to spread apart about four or five inches in the shape of
the letter "H." One of these, with any convenient flat rock
heavy enough to smash and kill a rat, is one dead fall. This
Indian had over a hundred of the triggers that he hadn't used,
but said he had set the most of them.
His plan was to go up one side of the canyon, setting the
traps wherever he saw the sign of rats, and the same down the
other side. The next day* taking the same route, gathering
the catch and resetting the traps. The rats the Indian had were
six to eic-ht inches long, two and a half inches wide an 1 luuf
an inch thick. They were packed as close as lie *-ould pack
them in the kettle and were quite heavy for the old man to
pack to camp, so I carried them for him. At his camp was
where I first saw the squaws making rabbit skin robes. This
is how it was done:
238 PIONEERING THE WEST
They had a lot of twihe, that had been made of soma
fiberous bark or grass, and a pile of rabbit skins that had been
dried and then rubbed pliable. But it must have been done
with care, for a rabbit skin is very tender. These squaws were
not making 1 a new robe, but patching up and making an -old
one larger. The robes are of length to reach from the neck
to about the middle of the thighs, say about three or four feet
long, and wide enough to reach around the body at the shoul-
ders.
One of the squaws was twisting the strips of skin around
a twine that was stretched to two stakes, placed a little past
the length of the robe, and as she proceeded the other was fol-
lowing her up and tying that fir rope thus made and laid along-
side the previous one close together at about every four inches.
They worked back and forth in this fashion till the skins were
all used up. There was a strip about two feet wide of new
robe attached to the old one. I examined it and found that
the tie strings were placed in a straight line across the robe,
with the ends of the ties left to attach more robe or to be used
to tio the robe together as wanted.
When hung around the neck the person so clothed can
stand in a hard rain or snow storm and not one drop of wet will
pass tl rough the robe. They are wind and rain proof and
almost cold proof. There is no right or wrong side, as both
sides are just the same one solid piece of fir that will stand
the wear of years, used as a mattress or bed covering or wind
brake. In fact, they never completely wear out.
When the fur at any place gets worn off it is replaced with
a few strands of new. This makes an old robe look striped
and of different colors. The squaws while at work seemed as
happy as a party of white women at a quilting and were talk-
ing and laughing just as fast. After spending some time chat-
ting and smoking with the old man, he gave me the location
of another family. T gave him a little tobacco and left them
much rjleased with mv visit.
53 THE ANTELOPE HUNT OR DRIVE.
I had sent word to the old chief (White Horse) that I
would make him a visit in a few days, and to make it interest-
ing to me he planned an antelope -catch. For a few days be-
fore I came the squaws and bucks were busy repairing and ex-
tending the flanking arms of the old corral, or trap pen, which
was located near the north end of antelope valley and about
twenty miles northwest of Deep Creek. It was pretty cold
PIONEERING THE WEST
weather, but no snow on the ground. The Indians thought
it a good time and expected a good catch.
After they had all come in from their work a great deal
of talking and planning was on and each knew just what part
and place he or she was to take. By daylight all were ready
for the start and. in fact, a number of the young men had left
early in the evening before to go to the extreme south end
of the ground to be covered and about twenty miles from the
pen. They were to spread apart across the valley, travel in open
order back to the north, being careful that not one of the ante-
lope jumped would run, except in a northerly direction.
This valley has a good many hills or knolls along the
base of the mountains and a few of them scattered more to
the center of the level ground in the middle of the valley. An
antelope, when started up, will always run directly for one of
these, that lay opposite from where he gets his scare from, and
they run from hill to hill. They see no one ahead of them
but the party behind being constantly increased, and if they
undertake to pass around the drivers a buck or squaw is sure
to raise to his feet, and that sends them off to the center
again.
Thus it goes till they come to the line between the outer
ends of the arms, which, there, are about four miles apart,
but gradually closing in as they get nearer the pen. The arms
or leads aie started at the extreme ends by simply prying or
pulling up a large sagebrush and standing it roots up on the
top of another brush, thus making a tall, black object visible
for miles. The standing of these brush were at first some ten
to twenty feet apart, but were placed more and more near to-
gether the nearer towards the pen, and when the two lines came
to about one hundred yards apart they were built so the buts
of the bru^h were as close as the tops would allow them to be
joined and by this time both wings had swung to the east side
of the valley, where there were many ravines to cross and
plenty of cedar and pine to use 'for fencing.
There were many turns to the lane thus formed, but was
getting narrower arid stronger till finally, around a sharp turn
through a large, thick bunch of cedars, the game were in the
corral, which was about two hundred feet in diameter and built
strong and high enough to withstand the charges of a herd of
buffalo. The pine and cedar trees had not been removed from
the inside of the pen, and not many from the runway, for a
mil" back.
Well, White Horse and myself rode the only two horses in
the drive and we went to about half the distance to the ends
240 PIONEERING THE WEST
of the arms and were soon back as fast as possible on the
outside to take advantage of the bends and turns and to try
and keep abreast of the drivers, who were all on a fast run,
yelling like a pack of coyotes. The drive came to an end with
a rush and everyone working desperately closing ap the en-
trance, a few small children appearing- on the wall at differ-
ent points around the pen. By the time we had tied our horses
and climbed to the top of the wall the entrance had been closed.
Then began the killing of as many as were wanted that
day, the killing was done with arrow and seldom missed pierc-
ing the heart. The catch was about twenty-five, mostly all
bucks or does, there being only five or six yearlings in the
bunch. There were five or six bucks killed that day and one of
which had tried to jump the fence, but got entangled in the
fenco and was killed by having his throat cut with a knife.
The reason they were not all killed in one day was to give
tho squaws time to cut up in thin strips the flesh and dry it on
a rack built over a small fire, thus curing it so it would keep
for a long time if kept dry.
The next morning I went to the pen with some of the In-
dians and found that there had been left three cr four young
men to guard the place and see that none of the animals broke
through. Tho antelope had run themselves down and Avere hud-
dled in the center of the enclosure, most all laying down. The
Indians soon picked out five or six of the largest, which were
killed and soon on the way to camp to be made into jerked
meat, as it was called. The brains are seldom eaten, but care-
fully preserved to tan the hide with,, by spreading them all
over the flesh side of the skin, after the hair has been removed,
rolling them up and leaving them this way for a few davs,
when the skins may be washed clean and rung as dry as pos-
sible, then stretched and pulled and rubbed till dry, when they
are soft, white and pliable. Then they are ready for trade
or use.
The Indians told me that the last drive, before this one
at this place, was nearly twelve years ago and the old men
never expected to see another at this place, for it would take
many vears for the animals to increase in sufficient numbers to
make it pay to drive. These drives are mostly in the desert
valleys, where the poor horseless natives live.
I have been with n number of hunting parties where most
of the hunters had horses. The last one was a few miles south
of where the drive I have just told about. There were ten on
horses ?md five or six foot men. When they arrived at the
edge of the hunting ground they divided into parties, one
PIONEERING THE WEST 241
going to the right and the other to the left and occasionally
leaving a man. and so spacing them apart that when the two
ends of the line swung around they formed a very large circle.
Wi could see where the antelope were running and the
plan was to keep them in the circle and on the run all the time
and not allow them to rest. When any of them attempted to
pass out they were headed off and turned back or around the
circle. We could not see an antelope halfway across the cir-
cle, but could see the dust they raised and the direction they
were traveling.
When, after they had been kept running back and forth
till they were very tired, a man would chase one on a fast run
and as he neared another man would stop to rest his horse
and watch for another run. The second man could run his
horse alongside the antelope easily, which I did, and wished I
had brought my lariat, as I could have caught him easily, but
I shot him when at a distance of about eight or ten feet. There
were only three killed and Jack was in high glee, for he said
to the other Indians. "You see, it takes a chief to get the ante-
lope." One was killed by him, one by "Antelope Jake," as
he was called, a young chief, and one by myself.
54. PINE-NUT HAEVEST.
Jack and I were taking a scouting trip high up in the Shell
Crock range of mountains, when we came across an Indian who,
with his sQuaxv and children, were busily engaged gathering
pine-nuts. JPhe man had a long pole with a strong hook fastened
to one end. He would reach up in the tree to the pine cones,
hook the crook around the branch on which they hung and
pull branch and all down, the squaw and children carrying
them to a place and piling them up in a heap. When they
had collected as many as they wanted that day, the buck had
finished his part of the work and could pass the rest of the
time sleeping or hunting squirrels just as he pleased.
The squaws and children gathered a little dry brush, which
vjsf thrown loosely over the pile of cones and set fire to. The
cones are thickly covered all over with pitch, for this reason
they make a hot fire, the squaw watching and stirring it up a
needed to keep the nuts from burning, as all she wants is to
burn the pitch off. When this is done she rakes them back
from +he fire as a man would do when drawing charcoal.
When the pitch was all burned off the burs, or cones, the
squaw spreads a blanket down close to the pile, then taking
up one cone at a time, would press them end ways between
242 PIONEERING THE WEST
her hands, which opens the leaves, under which there were two
ruts to every leaf. Then shaking; the cone over the blanket the
nuts would all fall out as clean as you please.
We stayed with them to see the finish, which was not so
\ery long. When the nuts had all been cleaned from the cones
they were put in a large basket that would hold over two
bushels and was nearly full, the squaw carrying that on her
back to a place where they were to be cached and left till
wanted. These caches were placed all through the pine-nut
grove to save carrying them too far and save time, for the
harvest does not last long, for a heavy frost will cause the
cones to open and the nuts drop to the ground, where the squir-
rels and coyotes feast on them.
A pine-nut cone looks like a green pineapple, but some
smaller and covered with pitch, that protects them from in-
sects and squirrels. The Indians put them in caches holding
about ten bushels or less. f
Once on a time when Jack and I were passing along a
range where there were a good many pine-nut trees, and as
we were getting hungry I asked him if he thought there was
any nuts cached there. He said he didn't think they were all
cleaned out and would look around. He was not long in lo-
cating one, and pushing the large stick of wood aside that
was placed on top of the small raise in which the nuts were
to be found, he moved off about six inches of dirt and found
a tight layer of cedar bark about two inches thick. He dug a
hole through this big enough to pass his arm through, which!
he did, and pulled out a handful of very fine nuts, as fresh
a=: when first put in.
Well, we took about two gallons, covered and left the
cache as we found it, minus the few nuts taken.
55. HUNTING FOR WATER.
In traveling through Go-Shute Valley (later called Flower
Lake Valley), we were getting very thirsty, having been trav-
eling five or six hours from the last water hole and it being
a dry hot and sultry day 1 and the horses needed water.
The nearest I knew of was about twelve miles distance and
that not in the direction of our travel, and our one canteen
being empty, I thought we would have to change our course
to get water. I asked Jack, "How far to water this way,'*
].<inting the way I Avanted to go. He said, "I do not know,
maybe no water. Well, are you thirsty?" "Yes." "Well
then, think fast and locate water or Indian no better than
white man."
PIONEERING THE WEST 243
V-'e were about the middle of the valley, facing south-
easterly, and were among the sand-dunes, which spread a few
nulos in width and many miles in length through the valley. We
had not ;>one far after this talk when Jack said, "Wait,"
and pointing to some rat or gopher holes in the side of the
sand-dunes, said, "They must have water, I see." Dismount-
ing, he picked a place between the dunes and with his hands
scraped off the loose sand to a depth of about six or eight
inches to water. He then made the hole nearly a foot deeper
and a foot wide, which quickly filled to the water level. Wait-
ing for it to settle, we then tasted it and found it to be a little
brackish, but still nice and cool and quite drinkable. Having
drank what we wanted, filling 1 the canteen, we let the horses
have their turn. They got some, but soon caved the sand in
and made the water so riley they would drink no more.
Jack filled the hole up and leveled the sand over it as it
was before and said if he did not do it there could not be
any more water ever found anywhere near there (Superstition;,
and I think he actually believed what he said.
Towards evening we were traveling along the foothills, go-
ing in the direction of where we knew there was a water hole
five or six miles distance. Where we were the limestone forma-
tion lay very flat and in some places was washed clean of ail
soil for large areas and but few cracks or breaks all along the
lower edge of these limestone beds.
I noticed that the grass and brush was thicker and stronger
than farther down. I asked Jack if he thought we could get
water near the edge by digging. "No," lie said, "too deep;
but wait, see the coyote tracks. They get water somewhere
close to here." So hunting around a while I got off my
horse and sat on a little raise watching Jack. He zig-zagged
around till he had worked off about one hundred yards from
me. I went to where he was standing and said, "Did you
find water?" he said, smiling; "Come and see," leading the
way to the bottom of a large saucer shaped swag, and what I
saw was an oblong hole about four feet across the narrowest
way and about twelve feet deep. There was eight or nine feet
of water in it and so clear that we could see the bottom and
sides very plainly and all the walls w-ere solid limestone.
The water was cold and not a bit brackish, so I proposed
to camp there that night. Jack said, "Yes," for he was very
tired; but said, "Wo must go a little wav off so the wild ani-
mal? can come and drink." How weiv we to water the horses
here? They could not reach it and if one fell in, it would be
good-by. as we could never get him out. except in pieces. Well,
244 PIONEERING THE WEST
we. watered the horses and gave them all they Avanted by using
my hat for a bucket.
I noticed that all around the hole the surface was slant-
ing towards it, except at one point where, when the hole was
full and more rain or snow water came to it, it could flow
on down to the sand valley below.
The next clay we, having crossed the summit of the desert
range of mountains, about noon, as we were riding along the
base of the mountain or about half a mile above the white
alkali desert (the most desolate and dreary country I ever saw)
seeing a poor, pretty near hairless coyote, I asked Jack what
he was doing so far from water. "Maybe not far," he said. "We
will try and find his drinking hole." So in riding along he
pointed up the mountain a little way and farther along our
way to where the limestone ledges dipped at a very steep angle
into the mountains, he said, "We will go along that way."
We came to a place where a thick ledge about thirty feet
high hung over a thinner one that was about eight or ten feet
high and from two to six feet from the higher one, that hung
completely over it. Jack went to one end of the ledge, or to
where he could get on top of the smaller ledge, gave a whoop
and said, "Plenty of water." I was soon at his side and saw
a pool of clear water (no scum or dirt) that extended from
ledge to ledge and some thirty feet long. At the ends the bot-
tom sloped toward the center, at which place there was no
way to judge the depth, as the bottom could be seen only a
few feet from the ends, but there was thousands of gallons of
water held there, as good, too, as any you ever tasted. But
let me tell you, a person might ride or walk within six feet
of it and still think it was miles, and hot ones, to the nearest
water. A tenderfoot would die of thirst leaning his back
against the four-foot wall that separated him from enough
water to supply . an army. One could not see the least sign
of water, every spot all around being sunburned and browned.
We, of course, camped a little way beyond after watering
the horses the same as before (in my hat). I would depend
on finding water at this place any time of the year, as there
was now plenty, and it was in the fall that we were there
and there could not be much lost by evaporation, and it
was replenished by every rainstorm, the water draining in at
the ends. The hole or crevasse would contan a good many
thousands of gallons more before running over, so I think it
safe to say that there was alwavs plenty of water there.
When we were traveling in the direction of the sink of Deep
Creek that was about fifteen miles awav I knew of no
PIONEERING THE WEST 245
water nearer in that direction, but knew of a small spring off
to the right some five or six miles out of our way. Jack asked
me for a drink out of the canteen. "There is only about half
a pint in it," I said, shaking it, "we had better wait as long
as we can before drinking it all." He said he had waited a
long time and thought the water was better now than it would
be when it got warmer, so it soon vanished.
After going a few miles farther and still thirsty I asked
Jack if he was afoot and very thirsty which way he would go
for water, trying to have him judge which way lay the closest.
He stopped, and looking around, said his mother, when he was
a little boy, had camped somewhere near where we were and
when she went for water it was to one of the mounds that we
could see scattered in the edge of the desert. So selecting a
rather large one, about half a mile to one side, we rode to it.
Jack got off his horse and made a complete circuit of it and
said, "No water, but plenty coyote signs." I said, "You did
not go over the top of the hill?'"' "No," he said, "wait, I go."
He had not reached the top when he gave a yell and I knew
he had found a water hole.
On going up I found it to be about two by six and about
eight or nine feet deep, with about three feet of clear water
in it, but hard to get at without a rope and bucket, but we
managed to sink the canteen in it by tying a small stone to
one side. We had a good drink and with a refilled canteen went
on our journey.
56. "SQUAWS CATCHING GROUND MOLES."
The ground squirrel, or large white bellied mole or gopher,
are very numerous in some places on the bench lands along the
mountains. One day, while taking a little exercise with Mr.
Muncey, the telegraph operator, we rode along the foothills.
When we came to the edge of fifteen-mile Creek Hollow and
were going down to the creek we came to a ditch about eighteen
inches wide and six or seven inches of water running, with
a good ripple, to our right, the mountains being to the left.
Muiicey said. "Who in h 1 done this. This water is running
up hill." And so it appeared to be. "Well, let us follow
it and see where it goes to."
We followed along the ditch until it came out onto the
flat, where there was a division, making two streams. A little
lower they were again divided. Then we could see about
eight or ten squaws very busy, each with a stout stick, digging
a trench and leading the water to a gopher hole. The gopher
246 PIONEERING THE WEST
would soon make his appearance in a half-drowned state, get
a rap on the head, then put in the sack at the back of the
squaw, who would then turn the water into the next nearest
hole, with the same result.
All of the squaws were hard at work the same way, mak-
ing a very clean job of it, and very few would be left for a
future drowning out. Muncey said he was going to time that
young squaw. We saw her divide her part of the water in
two streams, thus running it in two holes at the same time.
Sometimes she would have three or four streams and then
again but one, and according to Muncey 's time she had caught
between twenty-five and thirty in the half hour.
When we left them some of the squaws had over a half
bushel in their sacks and quite a large field to go over yet.
It would take a number of days to finish the job.
These rodents are skinned, gutter, then dried the same as
beef, only the}' are dried whole, no bones being removed. Of
course, they are also eaten fresh and stewed with Indian pota-
tos and segos. I most fancy I could stomach to eat one. It's
all in the way we were brought up. But I don't think I would
starve to death if I could find a place where there was water
and plenty of gophers, or any other animal I could drowned out,
even a pole eat would save a man's life for a week or more.
But I don't want to be caught wanting to try either.
Making Fire With a Stick. On one of my trip& with a
comrade we camped for the night just before sundown and soon
found out that we had no matches that were dry enough to
light a fire with. That did not put us out much and we did
not worry a bit, for we could soon make fire with our pistols,
but just before Ave were ready to do it an Indian came up
and squat down close to the little pile of wood we Kad col-
lected.
Then the thought struck me that I would see if an Indian
was always prepared to make a fire, so I said to him, "Make
a good fire and I will give you something to eat." He jumped
up and said, "Give me white fire stick." (Matches.) I told
him, "No. they are all wet and no account, and Indian no good
either if he could not make fire." He gave a grunt and pro-
ceeded to get busy.
He took a stick about eighteen inches long nnd the thick-
ness of an arrow out of the quiver he carried his arrows in
and another flat stick about six inches long, one-half inch
thick and three-quarters to one inch wide, there being four or
five counter-sunk holes in the flat piece about one-fourth inch
deep. After rubbing some dry cedar bark with his hands till
PIONEERING THE WEST
247
it was very fine, he placed the flat stick on the ground and
one end of the long stick, which was at one end a little smaller,
and putting- the largest end in one of the counter-sunk holes,
placed his hands together around the top of the stick, which he
made to turn around back and forth very fast. As he worked
his hands this way, at the same time pressing down all he
could, it caused his hands to work down on the stick and he
had to place them at the top very often. In about twelve
or fifteen minutes he had a few tiny sparks of fire he had
made with the sticks, burning the fine ground bark.
After that it was easy, but when the fire was lighted Mr.
Indian was in a very sweaty condition. We did not begrudge
him his supper, as we thought he had earned it and he seemed
pleased to get it that way. I have seen an Indian make fire by
simply rubbing two sticks together. This plan takes longer a'id
harder work.
248 PIONEERING THE WEST
SEC. Ill HARD EXPERIENCES.
57. SAVED BY A RABBIT.
This was told me by one of the Pony Express riders whose
ride was from Salt Lake City to Rush Valley. He passed the
point of the mountain eighteen or twenty miles south of Salt
Lake City, but as there was a heavy snowstorm raging he could
not tell which way he was traveling. He knew that he had
gone far enough to bring him to the river, if he had kept the
right road. He went on till himself and pony were both about
give out, then seeing no signs of a break in the storm, got
off the pony to give both of them a little rest. The snow was
quite deep and drifting.
Curling up beside a sagebrush he soon was sound asleep.
He did not know .just how long he had slept, but he did know
that some animal had jumped across his face, that instantly
brought him to his senses, and scrambling to his feet saw the
rabbit that had awakened him.
He found that he was very numb and cold and had a
time in getting blood circulation through arms and legs. His
pony was standing with his head down and back to the storm,
shivering like a man with the ague. He finally started again
and after some time found a light. Going up to it he found
that it shown out of the window of a farmhouse, the owner
of which had just got up and started the morning fire.
Calling the man to the door, he inquired the way he should
go to get on the right trail again. The man said, "Straight
ahead." "Well, if I should go straight ahead I would ride
through your door and as I have been riding all night I am
very cold and would like to get warm by your fire and have
a cup of coffee.'*
Well, after getting both and feed for the pony he went
on and got through all right. The place where he found him-
self to be was close in the northeast corner of Utah Valley
and if it had not been for the rabbit he was satisfied he would
have gone to his last sleep.
58. LOST AND FOUND, OR RIDING IN A CIRCLE.
Another pony express rider on the Salt Lake* ride to Rush
Valley made Cedar Fort (Fort Crittenden), in Cedar Vallev.
PIONEERING THE WEST 249
It was snowing to beat the band. He got his next pony and
started up the long slope toward Rusk Valley, his home sta-
tion. It was still snowing and blowing and it was impossible
to see the road or any object to get his location, but finally
it seemed that he was going down hill. He thought he had
passed the summit and was now in Rush Valley, so hurried
up the pony a little faster, but after a couple of hours of this
he could not discover any familiar ground, so then he came to
the conclusion that he was lost, not even knowing in which
valley he was.
It was too cold to stop; he must keep moving. Which
way? Why go straight ahead for sure? It would take him
somewhere, so he kept going supposedly in a straight line.
Just about daylight he discovered a light. Going towards it
he soon saw plenty of lights and then some buildings that
he recognized as belonging to Cedar Fort, the place he had
left the evening before. He had made a complete circle around
the valley. After eating a lunch and taking a fresh pony he
made it through all right, for the storm had passed.
59. AROUND A BUSH ALL NIGHT.
I left Ruby Valley station after breakfast. I was travel-
ing west and with no companion except my pony. All went
well and I arrived at Diamond Springs about 4 p. m., where I
rested. Just after sundown I thought I would go to the next
station, about twenty-five miles distance, from which I could
next day finish my west trip and get back to Diamond Springs.
I had not traveled more than a couple of miles before it
began to snow, and so fast that I could not see twenty-five
yards in any direction, and soon the snow was so deep and
it was so dark that every 7 direction from where I was seemed
to be up hill. After going far enough to take me across the
valley I came to the conclusion that I was off the right trail
and no need to go further till I could see some landmark to go by.
It had turned very cold and I was quite wet, there was
nothing to make a fire of. I was sjomewhere in Moon Shine
Valley, as it is called, on account of its white soil and very short
shad-scale greece wood brush, which makes it appear as if
the moon or sun was shining upon it when there is no moon
or snn visible.
I needed rest, so did the pony, but how could I get rest
and not freeze. I got off the pony, made a loop in the end
of my riding rope, put this around the stoutest bush I could
find, took hold of the pony's tail, driving him round and round.
250
PIONEERING THE WEST
When I would get a little warmer by this exercise I would squat
down a few minutes, but the cold would soon set the pony to
shivering (me, too), and then round and round again. Oh!
What a night and would it ever end? I had hard work to
keep from laying down and going to sleep. Well, if I had
but I didn't.
Just about daylight I saw a little blue sky right up in the
center of my circle and after a little while a number of clear
places. I was now on the pony riding around the bush, but
watching at all points for a view of the mountains. Finally,
just before sunrise I located east by the light and of course I
then knew which way to look for the mountains.
Very soon after this the clouds broke away and I had a
full view of the range on the west side and found that I was
some five miles to the south of the trail and two or three
from the west side of the valley. The first thing to do was
to get to the trail, which I did by a straight line to the foot
of the mountains. I could not see the road here, but that did
not worry me, I knew the mountains.
A few years after that I was crossing this same valley
with a few others, when one of them said, "See that lone young
mountain way out there in the middle of the valley, I would
like to go on top of it to see what it is made of." And he said,
"Did you ever visit it?" I said, "I may have rode around it,
but I certainly did not go to the top." "Well, if you rode
around it you certainly know if it is a limestone or granite
knob." "No." I told him of my night around a bush. That
explained why I did not know.
PIONEERING THE WEST 251
SEC. IV. INDIAN CRUELTIES IN PEACE AND WAR.
60. THE OLD MAN LEFT TO DIE.
There is a little spring of very brackish and warm water
about a mile north of Fish Spring station and a few rods below
the road. Between this spring and the road the Indians had
selected as the place to leave a very old man to die. He
v. r as totally blind and very poor, hardly any flesh on his bones.
HP was clad with only a very old and small strip of rabbit
skin robe hung about his neck.
The Indians had gathered some sagebrush and made a small
semi-circle about two feet high. He was led to the spring and
back to the circle and left to die of starvation. Father heard
of this from one of the stage drivers and the first time he
passed that way was prepared to supply the old man with
food and blankets. He told the driver to drive out of the
road to the old man's camp.
When they arrived there the old man was down to the
spring with his bands down in the water, which was liter-
ally alive with fish that were about two inches in length. When
he could feel one of them touch the inside of his hands he would
grab them and immediately eat them. That was the only way
of keeping himself alive.
Father raised him from the spring and tried to make him
understand that he would give him something, to eat and a
blanket to keep him warm. But he soon found that the old
man was very deaf and did not seem to understand a word.
Father got him back to his camp, gave him enough food to
last several days, also a gallon can of water, placed a good
new blanket around him and left the old man eating very
sparingly of the food, as if to make it last as long as possible.
Father went on his way west, but left word with the
stage driver to bring food for him after that every time he
passed that way. On his return trip, when he met the driver
he asked him about the old man. He said, "He is still alive,
but the blanket, water can and grub was gone the first time
I passed there. I have left him food every trip. He seems
to be some stronger than when we first saw him.
1'athor li'ot another blanket, more food and a water can,
ami when he arrived at that place found the old man sound
252 PIONEERING THE WEST
asleep, curled up about as a dog would for a nap, and getting him
awake and placing the bread in one hand and the other
on the can of water with the blanket around him left him
to himself again.
Father was planning to have the old man moved near the
station, where he could be fed at regular times and provided
with more shelter and clothing and with means of having a
fire when necessary, as the weather was getting quite cold.
Too late, for on his next trip out he learned that the old
Indian had been taken away and everything that had been
given him arid even the small semi-circle wind-brake had been
burned.
Father's generosity had not been appreciated by the old
man's relatives, or the band of Indians that he belonged to,
so they made it impossible for him to prolong the life of the
old man, who ought to die, and would very soon if let alone.
61. HOW A YOUNG BUCK GOT HIS WIFE.
It was Willow Spring Bill, as he was called, as he had
been working here for some time as chore boy. The band of
Indians he belonged to lived in the country around Fish Springs.
He was very saving of what little money or clothing he got and
finally traded for a small bore Kentucky rifle, that had the
tube or nipple broken off, therefore useless to the Indian he
got it from.
He brought it to me, knowing that I usually had a few
extra tubes on hand. He asked me if I would put on one for
one antelope skin. That was the usual price.) "Let me see
the skin." "No. I can't get it till you fix my gun so I can
shoot antelope." Well, I fixed the gun without taking his note.
About two weeks after I got the skin and traded for a
couple move that he had, giving him a few rounds of am-
numiticn, a shirt and a red handkerchief, which lie said he
wante^ 1 to catch a squaw with. He had quit the station. He
was now past chore boy. He was a man.
I did not see him again for two or three months, when
I chanced to be at Willow Springs. Bill came to the station,
a young and good looking squaw at his heels. "Hello, Bill,
you catch squaw?" "Yes." "Where you catch him?' ' "Me
catch squaw over to Shell Creek." "When you catch him?"
"Two sleeps me catch him. Me go home. Fish Spring."
The young squaw seemed to be verv bashful. I asked her
if she loved Bill. "Yes," she said, "him very good man, very
much like him." And she acted as if she did and I have no
PIONEERING THE WEST 253
doubts but she did. But, oh! the difference between white
and red people!
I afterwards learned from other Indians just how Bill
proceeded to get his wife. She lived in the Shell Creek coun-
try with her father, there being no more of the family or rel-
atives left. The father had lost one eye. He was getting
old and feeble, so the young girl had a hard time of it gath-
ering- enough food for both. There had been many a young
buck that wanted her for a wife; but the old man had al-
ways driven them off. Well, one day the young Indian Bill
nif.de his appearance at the old man's camp and commenced
to lay siege to the girl's heart. He made that camp his home
and helped out the food supply with game. This went on a
month or more. The old man still said no one should take
the girl from him. But Bill soon solved the problem. There
is no way of finding out just what agreement was made be-
txveen the boy and girl, but this is what happened:
One afternoon, after coming in from hunting, Bill took his
gun all apart and cleaned and oiled it up in fine shape. Then
he loaded it ready for work. The girl was busy shelling nuts,
the old man sound asleep on the sunny side of the camp, with
his face towards Bill, who aimed his gun at the old man's good
eye and fired. The ball passed through the eye and the brain,
too, killing the old man instantly.
The marriage ceremony was completely over. Bill coolly
reloaded his gun. turned to the girl and said, "Come," and
the girl picked up her blanket and followed her lord and
master and was willing- to do so as long as life lasted.
It was t\vo (lavs later that I had seen them at Willow
Spring? on their wedding tour, apparently as happy as a couple
of love-sick millionaires could be and live. All they owned
on earth they had on, or carried in their hands. Not much to
start married life with, but then they were Indians, whose wants
are few.
254 PIONEERING THE WEST
62. THE CROSS INDIAN.
Our pack train, of half a dozen mules and three men, camp-
ed for the night near a small spring that was in the west side of
the valley. We had got the mules all picketed on the best grass
we could find about there and that was not very good. I was just
starting a fire when there appeared three Indians coming to-
wards us at a lively walk. "See boys," said I, "we are going to
have visitors and they seem to be in a hurry to arrive before
supper time."
They came along in single file, the leader, the biggest buck of
the three, coming to within about eight feet of me before stopping
or saying a word, or making a sign. They were well armed with
hows and arrows, which they seemed to want us to see and
probably fear when we saw them, but the fear rlidn't come from
our side. Then straightening up high as possible and with a
very important pose, pointed with one hand to a blanket that
was thrown over a saddle, then slapped his own breast.
I knew what he wanted, but I asked him (in Indian) what he
wanted He took a good look at me as if suprised at my Indian
talk, but said, "I want a blanket, and shirt, and flour, and (look-
ing around) meat, and coffee, and sugar, and matches, and pow-
der, and bullets."
I let him get through with his wants and as he had not men-
tioned saddles or mules I asked him if he did not want them, too.
After taking another good look at me, he said, "No white man
wants them." I said, "Why do you want all this you have spo-
ken about?" "White man steal Indian water, burn Indian wood,
steal Indian grass (swinging his hand around), all mine. Hurry
give me blanket." "Wait, who gave you that water, that grass?"
He answered, "I always had it."
I said, "Now you lie, for that grass grows every year." "I
don't lie, for all this land with the game and water is mine and
I don't lie." "Well, what little water and grass we get would
not do you any good, for the water would run away and the
grass all dry up." "It ain't that way now, give me blan "
"Stop your talk and if you want more than bullets sit right
down there and wait a little while." Sigh. "White man mad."
"No, but why did you ask for so much for nothing?" "Indian
hungry." "Why didn't you say so the first thing." "I didn't know
you would understand."
"Well, I don't know if you will understand me when I say to
you that you cannot scare any of these white men and you had
better sit down and wait till they have a mind to give you some-
thing to eat." He gave a grunt and sat down with the others
where I had pointed.
I told the boys that if they would get supper that I would
take care of the natives, as we wanted no trouble if it could be
avoided. After they had seated themselves so they could watch
every move in the camp,, I heard one of them say, "These
PIONEERING THE WEST 255
men are mad." I said, "Yes you talk to much snake." (Meaning
forked tongue or lieing).
After awhile I filled and lighted my pipe then handed it to
the nearest Indian, who passed it to the one next, who drawed
three or four whiffs of smoke, then passed it back to me. I took
my share and the pipe passed back to the other end of the line
and came as before and was repeated till the tobacco was all
burned, when one of the Indians cleaned all the ashes out and
passed the pipe back to me and said, "Good."
After we had eaten our supper there was enough left (in-
tentionally) to give the bucks a good fill. After the pipe had done
its work again, as it was getting late, I told the boys I would go
and change my mules to better feed and when I came back they
could tend to their animals.
Making the change, I started back and up jumped a rabbit
not over twenty feet from me. He sat up quite straight, his
side toward me, a good mark. I could not resist the tempta-
tion of a try at the bright eye. I fired and as luck would have
it (I was noted for being lucky), almost centered that eye, and
as the other eye was almost directly opposite it was not my fault
that it went in the same direction. I took the rabbit to camp
and threw it down by the Indians. "There, I will give you my
rabbit. You may take it to your camp and eat it in the morn-
ing."
I then reloaded my pistol, the Indians watching every move,
They took the rabbit up and held it side ways to see how it must
have stood to get both eyes knocked out at the same time. One
of them said, "Good shoot, and he could shoot more with his little
gun without loading again."
When the Indians were ready to go home I gave them a little
piece of tobacco, a dozen matches and a cup of flour apiece, and
said, "This is for friends and not to pay Indians for water or grass
that belong to anyone that can use it, understand?" "Yes, chief
talk heap good. Me big friend, good chief. Me come back (point-
ing to where the sun would be at about 7 o'clock next morning).
Have more big talk."
Well, we moved early next morning and I did not see the
Indian again for over a year, but when I did see him was when all
the Indians had collected to get their annuities the Indian agent
was expected to give them. When all were ready for the pow-
wow, or big talk, I sat on a pile of logs with a number of Indians
that I was well acquainted with, when a large buck came up to
me, held out his hand and said "Good friend." "Yes," I said,
"but I don't remember you, for I don't see you much." Then one
of my friends said, "This is the man that tried to scare you to
give him blankets." "How do you know?" "All Indians know."
"He told it himself." "What did he say?" "He said he did not
know you was Big Chief's son, but soon found out that you would
not scare and made him much afraid, but as soon as he could
understand that you could talk some Indian he remembered that
256 PIONEERING THE WEST
lie had heard of you, and when you shot that rabbit through the
eyes he was sure you was a chief and the Indian's big friend."
63. THE INDIAN OUTBREAK.
This was, as I afterwards learned from the Indians that were
left alive when peace was declared. General Conner had given
a band of Sho-sho-nee Indians a good example of bravery by
attacking a large party of them that were fortified at Battle
Creek, southern Idaho.
He came near getting the whole bunch, but there was some
eighteen or twenty that made their escape and, of course, wanted
Howard Ransom Egan,
as he appeared shortly after these
experiences.
revenge. They got the idea of attacking the enemy by a flank
movement, which they proceeded to carry out by traveling around
the north end of Great Salt Lake to the Go-Shute country and
scaring them by bragging of the large number of their tribe that
would come out there and clean them all out, as well as the
whites.
I did not hear of this till all was over. I was out two or three
days with Egan Jack, an Indian friend of mine, on a prospecting
trip. He was not much of a rider, having never owned a horse,
and I used to jibe him about his horsemanship. And at one time,
while we were crossing a nice, level piece of ground, I let him see
PIONEERING THE WEST 257
how a rope that was being dragged by a running horse could
be picked up by a man on another horse without stopping or
dismounting. Also how some Indians that were used to horses
could ride on the horses' side so that only one hand or foot could
be seen from the other side.
These demonstrations so pleased Jack that at every level
piece of ground he wanted to see it again, but did not attempt it
himself. When we arrived at the Indian camp about sundown
and about one mile from our destination I learned during the
evening that there were some Sho-sho-nee Indians that had their
camp adjoining the Go-Shute camp. All were in a thick grove of
pine timber.
After the squaws had watered and hobbled our horses on
good feed, in plain sight of us, and we had eaten our supper and
with a few of the leading men were sitting around the camp
fire smoking and talking, I said, "Why don't your Sho-sho-nee
friends come and talk and smoke?" "Maybe my friends won't
come." Well I said, "Tell them I want to talk to them."
They sent a boy to tell them that the white man wanted to
talk with them. The boy returned and said, "They said, 'if white
man wanted to talk, to talk to their dogs.' " I told the boy to
go to them again and tell them, "I was no Sho-sho-nee, and did
not talk dog talk, but would see them in the morning." The
boy went, but soon came back with the news that the Sho-sho-nee
said that they would steal our horses that night.
Jack asked me what I was going to do about it, for he said
he thought they would try to get the horses. "What would you
do, Jack?" said I. "Go home tonight," he said. "Are you afraid
of them?" "No, they would not hurt me, but no friends of
white men." "Well, call the boy once more." Now, boy, go tell
them Indians just what I say, that there is my horses (pointing
to them) and if they want to steal them to go ahead, but they
must take them through the air, so as to leave no tracks, or I
would get my horses and them, too."
After the boy had gone I asked Jack if he would stick by me.
He said, "Yes, my friend, talk good." I soon noticed a couple of
young bucks sitting on the hillside quite close to our horses. I
asked Jack what they were there for. He said to shoot Indian if
he came to steal horses. "They won't come," I said. "I don't
know," he said. "I do," said I, "for that kind of talk with a
split tongue is no good and they are cowards, you will see."
And sure enough when morning came we found that they had left
during the night.
After visiting the prospect we went home. I heard nothing
more of the Sho-sho-nee for about two weeks, when one evening
our chore boy, Dan, said that there was nine or ten Indians at
the Indian Camp, which was about one thousand yards south-
east of the station, Deep Creek, and he wanted to go and hear
what they had to say. He asked me if he might take the wagon
cover he usually used for a bed in one corner of the kitchen.
I told him no, but he could go and hear and then come back and
258 PIONEERING THE WEST
sleep in the kitchen, for he must have a very early breakfast as
we were going to have a cattle drive tomorrow and must start
early. "Me bring cover back early," said Dan. I looked at him
sternly and said, "Dan, I don't like anyone to lie to me and I do
not like your actions a little bit. He went and that was the last
time I ever saw Dan.
Well, as the Indian riders that I had engaged to help in the
drive did not come for their supper that was promised them I
felt very suspicious that something was brewing at the Indian
Camp and I immediately made the round of the station to size
up the situation. I found the telegraph operator sitting by the
instrument facing the window, his lamp shining on him so as to
make him a good mark to shoot at a hundred yards distance. I
guess he was some scared when I told him this and I also asked
him if he had any shooting irons and if they were loaded. "Good
Lord, no. I forgot to load up after cleaning my gun. Why,
what is the matter?" "Maybe nothing, but I don't like the way
the Indians are acting. You had better hang a blanket up at
that window or work in the dark. And you might as well tell
other stations that the Indians here are having a pow-wow with
some strange Indians that are not friendly to the whites."
Then I went back to the house. There was two six-light win-
dows on either side of the kitchen door. In looking through
there the cook or anyone else in the kitchen could be seen plain-
ly by anyone on the outside. No blinds at the windows and two
large lamps burning inside, making the whole interior show up
plainer than by daylight.
After seeing that every thing was understood and set right
here I went to the bunkhouse. Here I found it some better for
there was a curtain up at the window, as there was most always
a driver slept there in the day time. There were three guns
none of them loaded, but plenty of ammunition for them. They
were soon ready for use and placed in a handy position. The
next plaoe was the blacksmith shop, about fifty yards east of the
station, where the smith usually slept when the weather was
warm. He was soon on his way to the sitting room or our
parlor, that was between my room and the dining room. I had
blinds up at every window.
1 set a guard to watch the Indian camp, for I knew that if
they meant any mischief they would first send their squaws and
children away. T told the boys to keep a good watch on the camp
and if they saw a single tent go down to let me know at once,
for there would soon be trouble. I stayed up myself till a little
while before daylight. I needed some rest and sleep, so laid down
on the floor in front of the fireplace and with my clothes on.
as did some of the other boys, for most all were together.
About the first break of day the smith gave me a gentle touch
and said, "The Indian's tents are going down." I jumped up and
said, "Someone of you run to the stable and saddle my horse and
bring him out, and you may as well saddle up the whole bunch,
to save them from being burned in the stable.
PIONEERING THE WEST 259
I told the boys, "H 1 was cut loose, but if they would stand
out there a little way apart I would ride over to the nearest
group and try to find out what was in the breeze and why the
ones that were going to help us drive had not come. And if I
should fire or any of the Indians did, to turn loose and see
how many they could get before they got out of range.
I rode straight towards the middle of their camp ground, but
seeing a couple of bucks about fifteen feet apart and a little to
the left of my line of traveling, I turned to the left to bring them
on my righthand side, which I considered was the handiest in
case of trouble.
I did not stop till I reached a point about sixteen feet from
the two and as near to one as the other. I recognized the right-
handed one was Jack, although he was dressed for traveling. The
other I knew to be a Pa-Van-Ute named Tung-a-Shump, whose
country was south of Provo, Utah. I did not know he was
here at this time. He carried a large bore, buffalo gun, which I
could see below his short blanket, his right side toward me. He
faced Jack, who faced him, and his left side toward me. Jack's
rifle laid across his left arm, in position for immediate use if
necessary.
I asked Jack where the boys were that was going to help me
drive the cattle. No answer. I said, "What is the matter here?"
still no answer. I rode a few steps past the Pa-Van-Ute, when
Jack said, "Where are you going?" I stopped my horse and said,
"After the cattle, but why don't you talk?" Still no answer.
Well, I tell you by this time I was thinking pretty fast and
wishing I was back with the boys. I started again, turning in my
saddle so as to watch both Indians, and not let them get the
start of me if there was going to be fun, and I thought there
was. As I started Jack spoke again and said, "Where going?"
I said, "Home." Not stopping this time, Jack said, "Ride side
horse fast."
I knew what he meant for me to do, so after going in that
direction as far as I could without going farther away from home
I suddenly turned and dropping to the right side of my horse,
went as fast as I could to the station.
I told the boys, "It is all off with the Indians and we will have
to do the driving ourselves if we can find any stock to drive,
which I doubt." While we were laying plans for our next move
we saw nine or ten bucks in single file go over the bluff in the
direction of eight-mile station.
"No more danger here at present," I said, "so now who will
go with me to see if we can find any animals left on the range?"
Jerome Kenney and another boy volunteered to go. I left
word for the rest to keep their eyes open and not be surprised
or caught asleep, for I felt sure we might be attacked yet. The
three of us had not gone over three-quarters of a mile when we
came to the place in the road where the Indians the night before
had bunched all our loose horses, twenty-four, and one mule,
to catch what they wanted to ride and had taken the direction
260 PIONEERING THE WEST
that would take them between our station and Eight-Mile station.
After seeing this we rode on, zig-zagging this way and that
way so as not to run into a trap, if any was laid to catch us. In
this way we proceeded for about eight miles, not seeing a sin-
gle animal till we came to a deep ravine that was wide and flat at
the bottom. As soon as we came to the edge, where we could
see the bottom, there, just below us, laid a freshly killed animal.
The top side had been skinned and the front and hind legs cut
off, all the rest left as the animal had fallen shot. They must
have placed a guard, that saw us coming and left in time to keep
out off sight, for we did not even get a glimpse of an Indian. If
we had, there might have been something doing.
While we were holding council as to our next move one of
the boys noticed a big smoke just rising in the west. "Look
there, what does that mean?" "It means dead men and burnt
station." I said, "for that is about where Eight-mile is and now I
know what to do, for the Indians have driven off every animal
they could find, so we will go home at once, but by another
route, and we may find some animals they missed."
We went on our way back, frequently changing the direction
and at last coming in sight of home, we could see that every man
there was out watching for our return, and when we rode up to
the station there laid the stage driver dead, stretched out in
the dooryard, and one of his passengers in the sitting room. He
had been shot in the head, but was still alive. There had been
four passengers two men and two boys sons of the wounded
man, who had been riding outside with the driver.
When the coach came within sight of Eight-Mile they could
see a bunch of Indians standing around the door, not an un-
usual sight, so the driver did not hesitate in driving, as usual,
until he had come to about twenty-five yards of the house. Then
he saw a white man lying in the doorway as if dead. He im-
mediately plied his whip and turned his team so as to get no
closer to the house, but to strike the road some distance beyond.
The Indians seeing this move, opened fire at once and the
first shot to take effect hit the passenger in the head and he
slid down into the boot. The next moment the driver was shot
through the body. He fell on top of the other man. He had not
lost grip on the lines, but used the ends of them for a whip to
keep the horses running as fast as they could go, at the same time
calling the other passengers to crawl out and drive, as he was
shot and could not guide the team.
Th e passenger said afterwards that he did not know how he
got to the driver's seat, but he did, and taking the lines from the
driver's hands, told him he would drive." "Well,.make them go
as fast as you can, for they are following us on horseback."
Those were his last words. The man could not see anyone fol-
lowing, for they had given up the chase.
When he arrived at the end of the lane, about half a mile west
of Deep Creek, he stopped the team, for he could see a small
bunch of people in front of the house and he was afraid they were
PIONEERING THE WEST 261^
Indians. After considering the matter over he drove on up and
stopped in front of the door and commenced telling the boys of
his experience, when one of the little passenger hoys called for
help to get his father from under that big man that was crush-
ing him down so he could not get out.
They got the dead driver out and laid him beside the door,
where he was when we got back. The other man, when they saw
that he was still alive, they carried into the house. This man
lived and when well enough to travel went east to his home and
friends, although he had lost about a tablespoonful of his brains.
The driver, to go east, had started about one hour before we got
home, as the operator said, Fish Springs was all right, there
seemed to be no danger that way.
It now being late in the afternoon, we decided to waite till
morning to further investigate affairs. Next morning very early
three or four of us went up to Eight Mile and the sight I saw
there made me "D n an Indian, anyhow," and I said, "I would
not try to learn another word or even speak another word of
their lingo without it was in case of an emergency," and I have
tried to keep my word ever since.
Eight Mile Station was built of adobes, two rooms about
sixteen feet square and sixteen feet apart. The space between the
rooms was covered the same as the rooms.* The doors of these
rooms opened in the center of this space. The north room was
the kitchen and bunk room. The south room was the granary and
full of sacked grain at this time.
The stables were east of the house about fifteen feet, parallel
to them and of the same length. They were joined to the house
by a wall at each end about six feet high. The swayle in which
ran the creek was close back of these buildings.
The cook was lying just outside of the space between the
rooms, stripped, scalped and cut all over his body. They had even
cut his tongue out before, or after, death, I don't know which, but
I think it was before, because they had dobbed his face with
blood and then covered that over with flour to make him a white
man again.
We had some trouble in finding Mr. Wood, who was the Over-
land Mail hay-stacker, in haying time, and hustler the rest
of the year a good steady young man. After about one hour
hunting around, we found him. He laid about seventy-five yards
north of the house and about thirty yards west of the road in the
rabbit brush. They had taken off every stitch of clothing and left
him as naked as he was when born. They had not cut and slash-
ed his body as they had the other man's, probably because they
had killed him before they got him. There were three or four
broken arrows left near his body. They had been pulled out of
him so as to get his clothes off.
Some of the boys said they liad been shot into him after he
fell. "No, I said, "he must have been shot with arrows at the first
break, but they did not prevent him from running, and when he
had got this far away from them he received the fatal shot."
262 PIONEERING THE WEST
There was a very large wound in the center of his breast. We
turned him on one side to look at his back, and there, square
in the center, between the shoulder blades was a largo hole. It
was some smaller than the one in the breast, but yet so large
it must have been made with an ounce ball. "D n that Pah-Van-
Ute," I said, "he did this with his big bore buffalo gun, and I
would bet all I have that I am right in my suspicions.
He was a good shot, so I had heard, but that he had any
cause for revenge on the white man I did not know at that
time, and of course did not hear till some time after peace was
made. And here I will tell what I afterwards learned from
the Indians.
When they saw me coming from the station and alone, the
Pah-Van-Ute jumped up and said, "White man coming. I will
kill him!" Jack had then jumped up and got in the position as
I found them and said, "All right, you kill him, I kill you." Jack
said afterwards, that he would not have waited till I was killed
but as the Indian made no move to raise his gun, he did not
want to shoot him. Well, if he had made a move to raise his
gun it would have been useless for Jack to have wasted his am-
munition, or, if he had made a move to change the position
of his gun, I would not have answered for the consequences, but
when Jack finally spoke, I knew I did not have him to deal
with.
Well, we had now seen enough and rode back to the sta-
tion. On the way back we took a different route, and came
to the place where the Indians had crossed the creek with our
horses. Here laid one that they had shot, probably because he
would not carry bare-back, and would most always buck when the
saddle was put on, but after his little jumping was over he was
a splendid little riding pony and was as tough as a knot.
That evening a party took tools and went up to Eight Mile
and buried the men just where the cook was found, in front
of the house. The driver was buried just as he was dressed when
shot. He lies about one-half mile east of Deep Creek Station.
After about a week's time we had hunted and found two
or three cows with young calves. We had in the corral at the
time of the break, twelve milch cows and calves. When hunting
the range we had seen five or six of our Spanish beef cattle.
These were all that was left out of fifty, and they were so wild
we left them to roam where they pleased, for no Indian or white
man could come in sight of them on foot without being attacked
and gored, unless he laid flat down and then he might be rolled
a little, but if he laid still they would go away. They had
never been handled in any other way than by horsemen, and
took a person afoot for a wild animal.
I remember of a strange Indian one day coming to the sta
tion in a very mad state of mind and demanding a blanket, a
shirt and ammunition to pay him for being pounded, and his
shirt and blanket torn by one of them as he was coming down
the valley. "Well, had you ever heard that they would not
PIONEERING THE WEST 263
hurt if you would lie down and keep still?" "No, and I don't
believe it, for he kept trying to get his horns through me, and
I tried to shoot him, but my gun had lost its cap and I could
not shoot, and when I tried to crawl away he would come at
me again."
Well, I gave him a shirt and told him to keep out of the
way of the cattle, for if they killed him I would not give him
anything more. He was satisfied, and said, "All right."
64. BURNING OF CANYON STATION.
After the California volunteers had been placed along the
mail line to guard the station from being attacked by the
Indians, a small squad was scouting around government springs
and about fifteen or twenty miles south of Simpson Springs,
and in the same range of mountains. They ran onto an Indian
camp and killed all that were in camp, men, women and chil-
dren, leaving none to tell the tale.
When Peah-namp (the old Pah-Van-Chief), came home in
the evening, he found that the soldiers had been to his camp
and killed his wife and papoose and all the rest that had been
left in the camp, and he had thought the whites were friendly
as he was. This was too much to overlook, so he took his few
men and went west to his wife's country (she was a Go-Shute),
and hunted up her relations and planned for revenge.
After holding a council it was decided to attack either Wil-
low Spring or Canyon Station, and as Canyon Station was in
the mountains, and also as was reported, more men were there,
it was decided to do what they could to leave it in a worse con-
dition than the Pah-Van camp had been left. So, making their
camp about three miles south, they sent two men to size up
the situation. They were to go as close as they could without
being seen. They did, and back they came and reported that
there were five or six men there that slept in the barn where
the four horses were, but the men went to the house in .the
ground to eat their food, and do not take their guns with them.
They had reported the situation just as it was, and the next
morning before day-light they were all around the station and
within easy gun shot of it. On one side there was a small
ravine, not more than fifteen yards away, and on the other side
another larger one a little further off.
The barn was nearest the small ravine, where they pre-
pared their fire arrows, to shoot into the canvass roof, which
they done as soon as the first gun was fired on the other side.
The Indians waited till the men had been called to breakfast in
the dug-out, and were all down in the hole without their guns,
all except the hostler, William Riley, who was currying a horse
just outside the north door of the stable at the time of the first
alarm, and he was shot through the ankle and the bone broken
264 PIONEERING THE WEST
short off. He started down the canyon on the run, but did not get
far before he was caught and killed.
The men at breakfast were mostly all killed as they came
out of the dug-out to reach their arms that were stacked in the
south end of the barn. Not one of them ever reached his gun.
One man, though wounded, tried to escape by running down the
canyon as Riley did. He got further away, but was caught and
killed, and, as he was some bald on the top of his head, and a
good growth of whiskers on his chin, they scalped that and
left him where he fell. Riley they dragged back to the wood
pile, threw him on and set fire to it. When the boys went up
there they gathered his bones that were left, put them in a small
soap box, and buried them where they had found them.
The Indians got four head of horses, as much of the harness
as suited them, all the guns and ammunition that was there,
also all the provisions and cooking utensils that they thought
worth carrying away, and every thing else they burned. They
took the clothes off of every man and left them just where they
fell all this had been done without a shot being fired by the
whitemen. A most complete surprise and massacre.
65. JESSE EARL'S DEATH.
The Indians had run off a band of horses from the Deep
Creek range that belonged to a man named Kennedy. Father
was in Salt Lake when he received a telegram of what had been
done. He was not long in picking up a few of the range boys
around the saloons that were supposed to be brave fighters,
and some others, among the latter Mr. Earl. They started west,
all on horse back except Mr. Earl and Father, who rode in a
covered spring wagon. They lost no time and were traveling by
forced marches. Father and Earl took turns at driving the two
mule team, the horse-men usually riding behind the wagon.
All went along all right till they arrived at a point a little
ways down the canyon and east of where afterwards Canyon
Station was burned. Father and Earl had just changed posi-
tions. The back curtain was loose and sometimes it was raised
by the wind so as to give a good view inside to those that were
riding behind.
This was the case at the point named, when a man, nick-
named Buffalo Bill (I have forgotten his name) , so called
after the famous scout of the early days, rode up close to the
wagon and, as the curtain flapped up he shot Mr. Earl in the
back, killing him instantly. The other riders had fallen back
and did not see the shooting or know what had been done
till they came up, which they soon did after hearing the shot,
and when they saw what had occured they were in for killing
Bill on the spot.
Father asked him if he had not made a mistake and killed
the wrong man, He said, "It was an accident." He was exam-
PIONEERING THE WES T 265
ining his pistol to see if it was in good working order when
his thumb slipped off the hammer. He did not intend to shoot
at all." Well, there was a doubt, and they gave him the bene-
fit of it; but he was closely watched after that with the inten-
tion of giving him over to the officers on their return to Salt
Lake.
On the return trip he disappeared in the night at Simp-
son Springs. He was afterwards killed by a sheriff's posse
near Fort Bridger, who wanted him for horse stealing and
murder. He held the posse at bay with his two large revol-
vers, threatening to shoot the sheriff if he made a move to-
wards him. The sheriff told his men to fire but they were
afraid Bill would kill them, so held their fire till he had backed
off a considerable distance when the bunch raised their guns
and fired all at the same time. Bill dropped to the ground and
in doing so lost his pistols.
When they came up to him he was feeling around for
them for he had been shot blind but would have found them if
they had not been kicked out of his way. He soon died, his last
words were, "By h 1, I will have a lead mine of my own when
I get to H 1." Every shot fired at him had taken effect.
Jesse Earl was taken down to Deep Creek and buried there.
The Kennedy horses were never recovered, but one of the
men in the party, that was sent to try and get them, shot one
of his arms off while trailing his gun through the brush in the
canyon where the horses had been driven through. This satis-
fied Father of the value of a "City Rough" in an Indian country,
for he said, "He would not give a half dozen of his mail boys
for a hundred saloon bred Roughs." He never hired any more
of that sort, but instead, it was the farm boy that he wanted,
and he generally got what he wanted.
66. THE INDIAN, NO LEGS.
On my way to Fish Springs with supplies for the station I
staid over night at Simpson's Springs. It was there that I first
heard of the "Indian no legs." The boys said, he had left there
yesterday morning to cross the desert to Dug Way Mountains,
and said they did not believe he could make it and would die
on the desert of thirst.
I was traveling alone, I had two mules and an ambulance,
or mud-wagon, as we called it, and had quite a heavy load. The
roads were dry and dusty and it was very warm during the
middle of the day. I started about six in the morning and by
eight o'clock was some eight or ten miles from Simpson's, when
I discovered something moving some distance ahead and keep-
ing to one side of the road and bobbing up and down apparently
in the same place.
On looking down at the road for tracks I saw what might
have been made by setting down a flat bottom basket in the
266 PIONEERING THE WEST
dust and repeating the operation on every foot of the distance
along the road. Of course when I saw this I knew what it
was that I could see ahead, and hurried up my team and was
soon along side of the man, who had turned just out of the
road to let me pass.
I stopped, and asked him, where he was going? He said
he was going to the Indian camp over to that mountain, (Point-
ing to a place about fifteen miles away). I asked him how long
it would take him to go there. He said, " One day and one half
day. You got water?" He asked me. I said, "Yes. have
you?" "Just a little bit, will you give me some?" "Yes, have
you anything to eat?" He had a small piece of bread that
the boys had given him. "Are you tired?" "Yes, Indian all
the time tired."
I said, "I would give you a ride if I could get you up there"
(pointing to a place back of my seat.) "Me go alright," he
said. How he did it I do not know, but he got to the place I
had pointed to as quick as I could have done it, and as I started
along he seemed as tickled as a little child on his first ride,
and would watch the brush go by as fast as it did before he lost
his legs, which was some fifteen years before.
He told me that he lost his legs by having them frozen,
when he was caught in a blizzard, and a doctor had to cut them
off to save his life. I thought it would have been better for
him if the doctor had not cut them off for then he would have
saved a good deal of suffering. I asked him if the Indians ever
helped him to travel. He said, "No they have no horses and
can't carry me every where they go." "Do they give you
food?" "Yes when I am at their camp, but not at any other
time." How do you carry food and water enough across a
place like this we are crossing?" "See I carry water in this,
(holding towards me a willow water jug that would hold about
one gallon).
Just think of that, crossing a twenty-five or thirty mile
desert, one foot at a jump and in the hottest weather, with only
one gallon of water and that as hot as the weather. What
little food he left the camp with he made to last as long as
possible by catching mice or the chipmunks that he could
reach with his stick or dig out of their holes when he saw them
go in. What a life! No, thank you, not for me.
I had went about ten miles from where I had caught up
with the Indian when he asked me to stop as he wanted to go
that way (pointing off to the right to a place about five miles
away). As I could drive no nearer I stopped the team and be-
fore I could get to help him he had taken hold of the side
of the wagon and swung his body over the side and
dropped to the ground all smiles and talking as fast as he
could make his tongue travel and that was not slow.
I gave him his bottle full of water, and all of my dinner,
a hand full of matches and my big red cotton handkerchief. He
PIONEERING THE WEST 267
seemed a very proud Indian. I asked him when he would get
to camp. He said, "Sun-rise tomorrow."
Now when he started off I noticed that he twisted his body
at every jump, placing one end of his stout stick on the ground
by his side, and by force of his arms, lift his body, and at the
same time shove it ahead about one foot or less. This he
could repeat very fast which made it look to me as if his body
was moving ahead all the time.
He had a raw-hide sack arrangement which was made to fit
around his body fastened around him above the hips. The sole
or bottom of this sack was made of the thickest hide, I do not
know if he had any soft material in the bottom or not, but
I presume he had, or how could he stand the shock of jumping
out of the wagon? or the continual bump, bump, while traveling
I heard of him several times after that but never saw him again.
67. PLAYFUL GOATS.
We were on our way from deep Creek to Salt Lake City
and on going through E. T. City, the first settlement in Tooele
Valley, this is what we saw. There was but one Street run-
ning through the place and that was nearly east and west. In
front of the south row of houses and about ten feet from them
there was an irrigating ditch, about eight feet wide and two
feet deep, with ten or twelve inches of water running with
a slow current and so clear that the bebbles on the bottom
could plainly be seen.
Right in front of the doors a plank was laid across the
canal to serve as a foot bridge to the road, which we were
traveling.
"Oh! look there," said my pardner, "See that little girl on
that plank playing in the water with a short stick." She was
about three years old. She was standing on the plank over the
water with her back towards the door of the house and lean-
ing over to reach the water. "Look there," said my pardner,
"there is going to be something doing".
What I saw was a Billy Goat coming up the side walk, a
few rods down stream. He would come a little ways, stop and
look, then come again. In this way he soon reached the plank
and sizing up the situation, backed away a few steps, then made
a jump striking the little girl in the back so hard that she went
sprawling face down in the water.
The goat then turned and ran down the side walk as fast
as he could for about fifty yards where he turned and looking
back seemed to be enjoying the sport and wagging his tail
and chewing gum.
My pardner jumped out of the wagon and ran to rescue the
girl, but before he got to her ,the door of the house opened and
out ran a woman crying, "Oh my daugther why did you fall
268 PIONEERING THE WEST
into the water." "Madam" said my pardner who was now close
to the plank. "She. did not fall in but was knocked in." "What
do you mean by that?" "I mean that I saw the goat butt her
in." What goat?" "That fellow that is down there on the side-
walk laughing at the fun." "Oh that is father's goat and I told
him he must kill him for he is always butting someone, and
now if he don't kill him I will. Oh my poor child might have
been drowned just on account of that beast. My child often
crosses here, but never before fell in." "Not her fault now."
68. WAGON GOING WITHOUT THE TEAM.
I sent a couple of our best Indian teamsters to Eight Mile
Canyon to get a load of logs. It generally took two or three
days to make the trip with oxen, which was the kind of team
they had. The second day th e two men came back without
wagon or oxen. When I asked them what was the matter, it
was a long time before they could tell me for laughing. But
I finally thought I had it. So I gave them some more grub and
told them to go back, and early next morning I would ride up
there and see what they had done to make the wagon start for
home and leave the drivers and team behind.
Next day I was up there about 8 a. m. and found the men
there and still laughing at what they seemed to think a good
joke. The men had cut and dragged to the wagon three good
sized logs that would make a good load. They rolled two of
them on the wagon, and in trying to get the other on top,
had started the wagon on the down grade. It was in the road
which it kept for a hundred yards to where a small ravine crossed
the road, wher e there was quite a steep bank on the lower side.
Here is where I found the wagon with the tongue buried two
thirds of its length in the lower bank. I asked the Indian what
they were going to do about it. They said they could not get
the wagon but could drive the team home. I said "Here you fel-
lows are going to take this wagon, logs and team home and
start very soon too.
I had not got off my horse, and did not till they started
home. "You fellows bring the oxen here," which they soon did
for they thought I was getting mad, "Now fasten a chain around
the back axle-tree, hitch the oxen on and pull the wagon back
till the tongue is out of the ground and if it is not broken you
will soon be on your way home.
The first pull brought it out all right, "Now hitch the oxen
on the wagon and take it to where I say." This done. "Now
take the oxen and drag down the other log." Of course I went
with them to see if they did it right. When the log was beside
the wagon, now, I said, "get the skids used in loading." When
these were properly placed I told them how to place the chains
so as to load the log with the oxen, which was soon done.
"Now bind your load as you have been told." This was done,
P I O X E E R I N G T II K W E S T 269
1 Xow water your oxen and then start for home and the next
time don't act like babies." Well they were proud to think they
had done it alone.
69. THE DOG POMPEY.
The dog was a large St. Bernard, very stout built with
thick black curly hair. He had a very intelligent look and a
kind disposition. He had been taught to carry things in his
mouth. He could carry a common water bucket full of water
without spilling any, but of course with such a load he had to
travel slow, there not being much room to step ahead.
When we were repairing our little Saw Mill at Deep Creek
we had a carpenter named Dick Pettit, who was very fond of
Pompy and used to let him carry the large dinner basket that
held the dinner for the four men.
The mill where they were to work was over a half mile
below the Station, and the trail or path crossed the creek on top
of the dam at the head of the canal that led the water down at
the mill. The dam made a large and quite deep pond where
the boys used to have much fun bathing and always took Pom-
py with them as he was very fond of swimming and playing
with them while in the pond.
One day as they were going down in single file, Pompy in
the center with the dinner basket, one of the men that was in
the lead had a stick in his hand, and as he was passing about the
middle of the dam threw the stick out about eight or ten feet
in the pond. It no sooner struck the water than Pompy made a
jump for it still holding the basket, and finding he could not
s svim and hold it out of the water managed to turn around
and tried to push it out to the bank. The men, some swearing,
some laughing, tried to help the dog land the basket, which
they finally did. But oh! what a sad looking mess that dinner
was in, not a bite fit to eat, except baked beef.
Some of the men were so mad they wanted to whip the dog
for that dirty trick, and others were just as willing to fight to
protect him, especially Dick, who said, you darn fools, the fault
is with the man who threw that stick in the pond, not the dog,
and I will thrash any one that trys to whip him for it, and duck
them in the pond afterwards.
Another time all the ranch hands were eating their supper
in the large dinning room when the cook came to the kitchen
door and said, "Dick, where is that dinner basket?" "Why didn't
Pompy bring it to you?" "No, and I told you if that" basket
was not brought back I would not put up any more dinners for
you and I wont." Well said 'Dick, "It ain't my fault for I gave
the basket to Pompy and told him to take it to you."
Just then one of the men said, "there stands the awful
brute that is the cause of all our trouble.'' Dick looked around
and seeing the dog, said "Pompy you darn scamp where is
270 PIONEERING THE WEST
that dinner basket? If you have lost it you get no supper
(talking crossly) . Go get the basket at once, git." The dog
seemed to know what was wanted for he turned and went out.
Some of the men left the table to watch the dog, who went
down the road on the trot for about fifty yards to where a
couple of wagons had been left just to one side of the road and
opposite a dwelling house. The people kept three or four dogs,
who had intercepted Pompy as he was coming home with the
basket, and in order to defend himself had set the basket down
under the wagons, and after the scrap was over had forgotten
the basket, but now he picked it up and brought it to the
dinning room door and stood there holding it in his mouth until
Dick called the cook to come and get it, which he did and
patted the dog's head and told him to go around to the kitchen
door and he would give him his supper. This he seemed to
understand for he went at once as told.
Another time the boys had caught a coyote late in the
evening, and concluded to not kill it till morning, so tied the
trap chain around a post and left it for the night. Father,
when he got up for his early morning ride saw the coyote and
made up his mind to see a little sport. So after saddling his
horse and calling his dog, he turned the coyote loose and the
chase was on. The coyotes leg that had been held in the trap
all night was so sore and stiff that he could not keep out of
Pompy's reach only by dodging one way and another, but al-
ways working towards the west creek about half a mile from the
starting place. When he reached this creek and attempted
to jump across it, Pompy jumped at the same time and both
landed in the water clinched, and struggled to keep on top.
The creek at this place was very deep, but only about four
feet wide, with perpendicular banks. Father dismounted to help
the dog if necessary.
The coyote had the dog by the side of his neck. The dog
kept his body over the coyote and turning his head sideways
was trying to keep the coyote's head under water to drown him
loose, which he did, and then with Father's help got out of the
creek, and then reaching back pulled the coyote out with
Father's help. He was not dead but Pomp soon made him like
sausage.
I had loaned by plastering trowel to a man who lived a
couple of miles down the valley from Deep Creek Station, and
as he had not returned it, I thought I would ride down to his
place and get it. While I was saddling my horse I noticed that
Pomp was watching me as if he wanted to go with me, so when
I got on my horse I said, all right Pomp, come on. He ran
a noseing around till he found a small stick which he picked
up and seemed pleased for the privilege of going for an airing
Most of the road was dry and dusty, but at one place the
creek ran close to the road, and was about eight feet wide and
a foot deep, with a gravely bottom that made it a nice place to
water teams or cattle. When I arrived at the man's place and
PIONEERING THE WEST 2]M
found him at home, after getting the trowel I still sat on my
horse, talking to the man and tapping the trowel on the horn
of my saddle.
Pompy had a number of times placed his front feet as high
on the saddle as he could reach, trying to call my attention to
him. He wanted to carry that towel, so I placed the handle of
it in his mouth and after getting through talking with the man,
I looked around for Pomp. There he was lying down, with
the trowel between his paws. As soon as he saw me start he
picked up the trowel and followed, keeping close behind the
horse. I occassionaly looked back to see if still had the trowel.
I had done this just before we got back to the creek bend,
and not again till most home, and as I did I saw that the
dog had dropped the trowel.
Well I could not blame him much, for, it was a very hot
day. As I turned around Pomp stopped and turned back, but
would not go unless I did, and keep him only about two rods
ahead of me. I was jawing and promising him a good thrash-
ing if he had lost that trowel and could not find it. This went
on till we arrived at the creek bend, when the dog left the road
wadeing out into the creek and stood still, but kept sticking
his nose in the water.
I then knew where the trowel was, and how he had lost it
by letting it fall out of his mouth while he got a drink, and the
current had carried it a little down stream. I got off my horse
and picked up a small stick to fish for the trowel. Pomp saw
the stick and thinking it was for him he jumped to the further
side of the creek, turned and kept sticking his nose in the water
up to his eyes. After searching for some time I located the
trowel about four feet down from where the dog was hunting
for it. He seemed to know where he had dropped it, but did
not allow for the current. It was some time before I could coax
him far enough to see what I was pointing at, with the stick,
and I was also afraid I would hit him with it.
But finally as I was about to give up trying to make him
understand where the trowel was, he caught a sight of shineing
mettle and then there was something doing. The water there
was eighteen inches deep. The dog made a lunge and landed
both front feet on the trowel, as if it would try to get away,
then under went his head. Gee but he made the wtaer fly. But
he came up with the handle of the trowel in his mouth and stood
in the road till I was ready to go. Then he kept the lead till we
got home, where some of the boys tried to get the trowel from
him, but no, he had got it from me, and I was the one to get
it back.
As I rode up I called to him to come and give me that trowel
before he lost it again. He came and placing his feet the same
as when I first handed it to him allowed me to take the trowel.
Then seemed to think all was off and went to the side of the
house to lie in the shade.
272 PIONEERING THE WEST
70. WILD PETS.
I will now have to tell you of a few Pole Cat incidents. First
I was out prospecting with a Mr. Shell we had located a claim
and built a small log cabin, and were sinking a shaft some five
or six rods up the hill from the cabin. One noon Shell went down
to start dinner while I stayed to load the drilled holes for blast-
sing. He soon came running back all excited, and said, "Come
quick and help me catch the prettiest little animal I ever saw in
all my life, I want to catch it alive, it will make such a fine
pet.
Don't get excited I said I think I know what your pet is, and
you had better give him plenty of room, but Shell fairly pulled
me down to the cabin, where on looking through the logs we
could see the pet gnawing at our bacon sack that laid on the
floor, not having been hung up in its proper place, "Don't make
a noise" he said, "How are we to catch him alive?"
This was a well educated man who came from New York
City and did not know a skunk when he saw it. Stand back, I
said, "that is a pole cat and if he is a mind to he can make the
cabin uninhabitable." Well if you know it why don't you shoot
it, there is a good view of him from here. "Yes but don't you
know that if I did shoot it in there we would have to move out.
Can't I make you understand that that animal has a supply of
scent that would clean out the whole of New York City. "Well
what are you going to do wait till he eats up the whole of that
bacon?" "No, you come to this side of the house and I will
see if I can get him to leave.
I took some small pebbles, rolled them towards the cat, at
the same time kicking at the logs, the cat got alarmed, crawled
under the logs and started up the hill towards the shaft, as
soon as it was out of the house, Shell said, "Now shoot him."
"Not me. he is too close yet."
About half way between house and shaft, the ledge cropped
out with a large crevice or crack in it, the cat went into this.
"Now I am going to get him without you shooting him." Never
fear, I wont shoot him that close to the trail, and you had
better leave him alone.
No, he must have his own way, so he took our largest drill
and by leaning over the crevice, drill and arm straight down he
was able to reach the cat. I saw him make two or three fierce
lunges and then leaving the drill in the crevice, raised his
hands and came running down to where I was standing, and said
"Oh, my, What a smell." I said "You are very lucky if you
haven't got some of it on your clothes." "Well," he said, I must
seem like a d d idiot to you and I guess I am.
For two weeks after our trail to the shaft was in the shape of
a semicircle. When we were about to leave I could not get Shell
to fish out the drill he had killed the cat with, and said he
would sooner pay for half a dozen like it than get it. And if
I would agree to say nothing about the d d pet, when we got
PIONEERING THE WEST 273
to a place where there was liquor I could have as much as I
wanted. Well I wanted much.
At another time much later, and in Cache Valley I had traded
for a saw mill in High Creek Canyon where I run a custom
shingle mill. We had a log cabin in which the hired men slept.
There were six double bunks and at times they were all occupied,
and in stormy weather the floor space would have a few beds
spread down for the night. This floor was of rough lumber with
many large cracks and not-holes. There was a large open fire-
place in one end of the room that was usually kept full of burn-
ing logs in cold weather.
I had a young Scotchman hired to work in the mill, he oc-
cupied one of the lower bunks facing the fire-place. While lay-
ing in his bed he could easily reach the floor with his hand. One
night when all had retired Johnny lay awake and saw a pole cat
running around the room picking up the crumbs and scraps
that had been left by those who had eaten their supper by the
fire. He watched the cat till it had cleaned up all it could find,
even going under the lower bunks. He saw the animal crawl
through one of the cracks in the floor.
He said nothing of this to any one, but the next evening he
left a few bacon scraps on the floor beside his bunk, swept the
floor and left the fire to give a little light. After all had been
quiet for a while the cat made its appearance again, coming up
through the same crack as before and exploring the room, found
the crumbs, and ate them all before going the crack route for
home.
This was kept up for a few nights in succession and finally,
the boy ventured to touch the cat's back. It seemed to under-
stand that there was no harm intended, and the boy after a few
days got braver, and would stroke the cat's back as long as he
was eating the crumbs. The cat also seemed to enjoy the pet-
ting, and now would come straight from the crack to the bunk
side, and not do any hunting about the room.
This went on for a long time. The boy saying nothing to
anyone. When there was to be company in the cabin he had a
piece of board that he would place over the crack, after drop-
ping a few crumbs through for his pet.
One stormy night all the bunks were occupied, and a bed
for two spread on the floor, with the foot towards the fire. The
boy had forgot to place the board over the crack. He was very
tired and was soon asleep. There had been a good big fire, but
was now a bed of live coals. After all was quiet the cat came up
and finding no food in the usual place, proceeded to search for
something to eat. In doing so it crawled across one of the men's
legs. The weight of the animal awaked him and not knowing
what it was, drew both his legs up as far as he could, and then
kicked them back as hard as he could kick. Well he had done
it in fine shape, for he sent the cat plunging into the fire, at
same time saying, "What in H is in here?"
"Darn your eyes," said Johnny, you hare done it. Now you
274 PIONEERING THE WEST
can pick up your bed and get out of here. And that is just what
all hands did too, and lost no time in doing it. They had to
make temporary shelter for the night, as it was raining. We got
the hose to work and give the house a good drenching, and after-
wards a good coat of lime whitewash. But it was over two
months before we could use that room to sleep in again. Johnny
and the man that done the kicking, were never good friends
again.
71. THE SAND HILL CRANES.
I had been on a trail where there was quite a number of'
horse tracks all leading to the north. I had satisfied myself that *
they were made by Indian ponys passing that way, all of a week
before and possible longer. So had left the trail and was cross-
ing a desert valley of about twelve or fifteen miles in width.
I was about in the middle of this valley when I noticed to
the north of me and about a mile distance what appeared to be
a couple of horsemen that were up to some game, for they would
go this way, then that way, crossing each other, then sometimes
dropping most out of sight. This getting out of sight I thought
was by them going through a swayle or low place. The other,
or crossing, I thought jnight be by their coming along a crooked
trail that would make it appear to me that they were crossing
first one way and the other.
But there was something else that I saw that set me to
thinking pretty hard, and that was every little while one or both
of the horsemen would hold their blankets by two corners and
raise them above their heads and work their arms back and forth
like wings. What was this? If not to call my attention to them,
while probably another party was sneaking up from some other
direction to spring a surprise on me. But I could see no signs of
danger in any such direction, so going slowly to save my horse
for a fast run, if it should be necessary, I kept good watch of the
two horsemen. They did not seem to get any nearer to me
but kept up their antics.
I was some puzzled over the affair, as I had never seen or
even heard of anything like this, and as to what would happen
next I did not know, but was determined to not be caught asleep,
every foot of the country I was to travel over I seached well with
my eyes before venturing toward it, but there was no place for
miles in any direction where there could be laid an ambush with-
out digging and common sense told me that an Indian would
not do that for how could they tell which way I would come or
go. I did not know myself! It was all according to circum-
stances.
I knew that I had about fifteen miles to go to get to my
home station, and, if headed off in that direction I could reach
another station by going to the right about twenty miles. It
was now past noon and I was just going to travel faster, when
PIONEERING THE WEST 275
a cloud came over the sun and put an end to the Mirage. It
was nothing more than two sandhill cranes feeding and exer-
cising themselves by stretching their wings.
72. THE INDIAN STORY OF A GREAT CAVE.
I first got this from a young buck and just enough to cause
nre to want to hear all there was to it, and I told the young man so.
He said^there were some old men that knew all about it, and he
would tell me who they were as soon as he could. Some time
later I was at the Indian camp that was near the station taking
lessons in their dialect. When the young man came in and
said there was an old man over there in another wig-warn, that
could tell me about the big cave. I was soon over there and
.after a friendly smoke. This is what he said as near as I can
remember:
"There was camped at the very south end of the Schell Creek
range of mountains a large band of Indians, and a little ways
from the camp was a large knowl. In the side of it was a cave
that no one had ever been to the end of, and in fact none would
try to explore it, on account of it being said that the bad spirit
lived there, and killed all who entered very far inside.
The chief of this band of Indians had two squaws, one was
quite old and cross, the other was very young and gentle and
good looking, but the two squaws were most always quarrel-
ing, and the chief had frequently given the old one a good
thrashing, thinking she was to be blamed for being so cross
but the time came when he thought he would try whipping
the young one, but first asked her why she could not get along
with out quarreling with the old lady. She said the other
woman was always scolding her for not working harder and
thereby making it lighter work for her and if he didn't make
her stop her growling, she would run away as she was tired of
living this way.
That kind of talk made the Chief very mad so he gave the
young squaw a very hard whipping, using his horse whip and
holding her by the hair of her head while he laid the whip on
till the blood had started out most all over her, then throwing
her to one side said now let us have peace or there will be
something worse coming.
That night the sore little squaw took some dried meat and
a few pine nuts and went to the cave determined to go as far In
as the bad spirit would allow her to go, and, if she did not
see him, to go as far as she had strength to crawl as she never
wanted to go back or have the Indians find her body if they
tried to do so.
For some distance the floor of the cave was covered with
sand that laid in small wave like ridges and on the whole nearly
level, but further on took a steep grade down for a long way,
then a nearly level stretch, then again down grade, this kept
276 PIONEERING THE WEST
on she did not know how long, for when she got tired she would
lie down and sleep, and when she woke up would continue feel-
ing her way down.
She had no idea how far she was from the mouth of the
cave when she stepped into a pool of water that came nearly up
to her knees and was cold as ice. She felt around and found
there was quite a stream that was running out of the spring
on the opposite side and she could hear a small waterfall a
little farther down. She soon made her way to this fall and
over it and down the creek.
This went on for a long time, her food had all been eaten
and she expected to soon have to give up and die, but what
was this under her feet so soft? It was grass. She tried to
eat some of it but it did not taste good, so went on and when
tired out laid down beside the creek to sleep, and lying on
her back opened her eyes and saw that there was stars above
her and in watching these discovered there were clouds up there
to and this kept her awake for a long time, but she did sleep
again and then was awakened by some thing running by her.
She found it was day light and the sun was coming up over
the hills and she could now hear birds singing, and she saw
numerous wild animals the like of which she had never seen
before. Every where she looked the ground was covered all
over with grass, bushes, and trees. Any where else in her life,
she had not seen such a beautiful country not even in small
patches, having lived in a desert country.
Hunger caused her to look around to see if sfce could find
any berries or roots that she could eat. Going on down the
creek she found there was plenty of berries and many kinds
that she had never seen before, some very large, and others
very small. She eat of them such as tasted good until satis-
fied. Then went on still following the winding brook.
She had not traveled over a half a sun when she saw a large
herd of very white animals feeding on a large open space where
there was nothing but fine grass. She had never seen any ani-
mals like these. They were not as tall as an antelope, nor
as little as a coyote. They were covered all over with long
curley hair, and as she drew near to them they raised their
heads and looked at her, then went on with their feeding, and
seemed to know that she was not dangerous. While watching
these animals, she saw something else that gave her quite a
scare. It was a man and, as he had seen her and was coming
towards her there was no use in running away, so she stood
still but watching to see if he was freindly or not. He came
up pretty close and stopped then spoke to her in a language she
had never heard and could not understand.
After some time he seemed to know that she was of some
other people, and was lost, and was probably hungry, so put-
ting one hand on his stomach and the other pointing to his
mouth then pointing down -the brook motioned for her to fol-
low him, which she did as he seemed very friendly. /
PIONEERING THE WEST 277
After going some distance they came to where a broad trail
led to the door of a big house that had four or five other houses
inside of it, and in the sides of all of them were big holes that
had something over them that kept the wind and rain out, bat
you could see outside through them. In every house the ground
was covered with wood and the whole houses seemed to be
made of wood with different kinds and colors of paint. There
were places to sit on, places to eat on, and places to sleep on,
all very beautiful to look at.
The man went to one of the walls and opened a door that did
not open clear through the wall and brought out some meat
that was v cooked and some very white bread and some yellow
grease, and a pan of berries, a cup of sugar and put these on
the place to eat on, then got some water in a cup you could see
through. Then motioned for her to sit there, and he sat op-
posite, all the time talking in a kind voice.
He would point to some thing and say one word, and keep
saying it till she would repeat it, when he would laugh and
seemed much pleased. She knew that he was trying to teach
her to talk his language and she was anxious to learn, and it
was not long before she was able to ask questions and under-
stand the answers. She slept in one of the inside houses and
the man in another. The man done all the cooking for a long
time, or until she had learned to talk well, and also how the
cooking was done. Then she took hold of that part, which left
the man more time to attend to his flocks and herds of which
he had a good many. Some days he would take her out with
him to get the fresh air and view the country, and at such times
she could see scattered around at quite a distance numerous
houses like the one where she lived and could also see many
herds of different kinds of animals. When she asked the man
if friendly people lived there he said yes. It is a very big
country and all over it just like it is as far as you can see.
One day the man dressed himself in finer clothes and told
the girl he was going away, but would come back by sun-
down. He was back by the time, called the girl to come and see
what he had brought for her. It proved to be a dress that would
reach from neck to ankles, and cover the arms too. It was
covered most all over with different colored beads which were
put on so as to show trees, birds, etc. and was very beautiful
to look at. There were some leggings and shoes all finished off
with beads like the dress. She was much pleased with the pre-
sent as her own clothes were badly worn. The man told
her to put them on and wear them every day, and after a while
would get her another and better outfit.
One day he called her to set down, and as she could talk
good enough to make him understand, to tell him her story
of where she came from and how and all about her people, as he
was satisfied she was not of his country. So she commenced
her story form the time she could first remember, up to the
278 PIONEERING THE WEST
time her husband had whipped her, which seemed to make the
man very mad.
He frequently asked her questions as she was telling her
story. Then when she was telling of her running away and
entering the cave to die he was all excited as there was an old
story in his country that the cave had another opening far in
the mountains that led to a bad country.
Well, she ended her story, after telling all that happened to
her up to the time she met him. He knew the rest. One day
he took her out to the side of the great trees, where he sat down
and said three years ago I had a wife, she died and is laying
there pointing to a small mound near him and two years more
must pass, before I can marry again, as that is our custom here.
Then maybe I will talk to you about it.
One day some time later he found the girl sitting out in
the shade she was crying and sobbing like her heart would
break. After a good deal of coaxing she told him she was
thinking aboyt her husband and her boy, and wanted to see
them again at least her boy that was one year old when she
left them. The man seemed very much depressed but said,
your husband is no good I wouldn't cry for him, but I do not
blame you for wanting to see your boy, and if there was any
way to help you get him I would, but there is no way, so try and
forget them. And soon she was crying most of the time, till at
last she told the man if he would let her go she would try and
go back the way she had come, and get her- boy.
The man tried to make her understand that it would be
impossible for her to find her way back. But she was deter-
mined to make the attempt. So seeing that he could not per-
suade her to his views, he told her that if she was bound to
take the chance of getting back through that awful hole, he
would help her all he could but would not go one step inside
' of the cave to save his own life or her's either. So as she wanted
to start at once they both began getting together such articles
as they thought would help her to make the journey through the
cave.
The man got a small bundle of grease tourches any one of
which would burn a whole day, and advised the girl to use as
few as possible while she had the creek to follow, and after leav-
ing the spring at the head of the creek might be able to trace her
steps back if she had light enough. Well, one day when they
could think of nothing that would help her, the man went with
her to where the creek came out of the mountains tried again
to have her give up such an awful undertaking, but as
she would go, made her promise that if she could not find her
way out at the other end, or did get through and found her
boy she would come back to him and he would wait two years
for her.
So they parted, the man to his peaceful home, the girl to
the dismal cave, where, after a very long time, and her pro-
visions were about all used up, and the torches all burned out,
PIONEERING THE WEST 279
she came to the light of day, and about noon. She climbed a
small hill where she could view the country around her at least
some distance away discovered a smoke that showed her where
there was a camp of Indians.
She went to it and found it to be her husband's band who
was all very much surprised to see her again and alive, and
dressed so fine and looking as pretty as ever, only tired out,
and whiter than when she left them. The old woman had died
while she was gone. Her husband said he would never whip
her again and she must come and live with him and the boy,
which she did."
There is another Indian story about that same cave, of how
a small band of Indians lived near it, and was attacked by a large
band of strange and hostile Indians, that was determined to
kill all of the men and children and keep the squaws for ser-
vants. They had a running fight and all that were not killed
took refuge in this cave. Their enemy placed a guard near the
entrance to prevent any from escaping and they were determined
to kill or capture the whole band. But after keeping their guards
there for a whole moon, and not seeing or hearing of any one that
had went in they came to the conclusion that all had starved to
death. So they went in to investigate, and could plainly see
the tracks of the fleeing party all pointing further in, not one had
turned back. This was enough, all had gone to their heaven
or their hell.
Now a white man story about this same cave. We had a
number of men hired for haying season, and among them were
some that had lived in the settlements south of Utah Lake. I
had been telling a bunch of them some of What the Indians had
told me about this cave, when one of the men said there must
be something in it, for I beared a man down south say he was
acquainted with some of the party that done some exploring
there.
The party were returning from California and making a cut
off across the desert, when they camped near and discovered the
cave. Some of the party went in quite a long ways, but had to
retreat as their light gave out. Then they made a number of
torches and with what lighting material they had, attempted to
again reach the far end of the cave. There were many leads off
to the sides but only one led down, kept one general direction.
By following this, and just as they were about to back out
going any further, they came to a spring of nice clear and
pure water. The stream from which ran on down into the
cave. There seemed to be plenty of room to follow it but
they could not at that time.
All said they would go to the settlements and provide them-
selves with the means of finding the end of that cave if it
took them six months to do it. I know that a good many men
have been willing at any time to go and explore it. But there
was always lacking a leader that would go ahead and organize
a party for that purpose.
280 PIONEERING THE WEST
73. A PONY EXPRESS RIDER'S EXPERIENCE IN 1860.
Richard Erastus Egan better known in boyhood days as
"Ras" Egan, born in Salem Mass. March 29th 1842, was employed
in April 1860 to ride Pony Express between Salt Lake City and
Rush Valley station, a distance of seventy five miles. He made
the first trip on the west bound express on the famous and beau-
tiful sorrel mare "Miss Lightning" making the first station twen-
ty two miles in one hour and five minutes.
The scheduled time for the seventy five miles was five
and one-half hours though it was made once in four hours and
five minutes when the President's message was going through
called by the boys the "Lightening Express." At first the ride
seemed long and a tiresome one but after becoming accustomed
to that kind of riding it seemed only play, but there were times
when it didn't seem so very playful. For instance. I was
married January 1st 1861, and of course naturally wanted a
short furlough, but was only permited to substitute a rider for one
trip, and the poor fellow thought that was plenty.
I had warned him about the horse he would start with from
"Rush" on his return trip telling him that he would either "back"
or fall over backwards when he got on him. "Oh!" said he, "I am
used to that kind of business. "But" said I "Bucking Bally is a
whole team and a horse to let and a little dog under the wagon,
be careful. So as a precaution after he had tightned the saddle
on he led him out about a quarter of a mile from the station and
got on, when the horse true to his habit got busy, and the next
thing the rider knew he was hanging by the back of his overcoat
on a high stake of a stake and rider fence with his feet about
five feet from the ground.
He could not reach behind him to unhitch himself. He could
not unbutton his coat so as to crawl out of it, but he could get
his hands in his pockets for his knife to cut the buttons off and
release himself, after which was a search for the horse on the
dark night. He finally found him and made the trip, getting
"a black eye" for loss of time. He said to the boys, "No more
'Bucking Bally' for me."
74. A RATHER UNPLEASANT EXPERIENCE.
Shortly after my marriage in the winter the time of arrival of
the Pony Express from St. Joseph was uncertain on account of
deep snow in the Rockies. So one night when I was supposed
to remain in the office waiting, the hostler through sympathy
said you go home to your new wife and if the express comes
I will jump on a horse and come after you. Of course I ac-
cepted. Oh! what luck! About midnight here comes the pesky
fellow and I had to jump out of a snug warm bed and start of
in a howling blizzard to ride seventy five miles.
The cold was almost unbearable, but, through the kindness of
PIONEERING THE WEST 281
a friend who took me in for an hour and warmed up my almost
freezing body I pulled through O. K.
On another accasion I rode from Salt Lake City to Fort Crit-
tenden, a distance of fifty miles, then started at sun down for
Rush Valley in a very heavy snow storm, and the snow knee
deep to my horse. I could see no road, so that, as soon as dark-
ness came on, I had to depend entirely on the wind. It was strik-
ing on my right cheek, so I kept it there, but, unfortunately
for me, the wind changed and led me off my course, and instead
of going westward I went southward and rode all night on a
high trot, and arrived at the place I had left at sundown the
evening before with both myself and horse very tired.
Now the only thing to do was to jump on to the horse r had
rode in the evening before and proceed on twenty five miles fur-
ther. Then, instead of having a night's rest at my home station,
I was riding all night, in consequence of which I met the "Pony"
from Sacramento and was compelled to start immediately on
my eastward trip to Salt Lake City. This made my continuous
ride 150 miles besides all night in deep snow.
Just one more incident. My brother-in-law was riding west
from me and had a sweetheart in Salt Lake City whom he desired
to see, but could get no leave of absence to go see her and I
naturally had sympathy for him, so we got our heads together
and agreed to accidently (on purpose) pass each other in the
night and he would have to ride his route and continue on mine.
But he had all night in Salt Lake to rest or spark as he choose
and return the double route next trip.
But with me it was different for after I had rode the double
route, 165 miles I met the "Pony" from west and had to turn
around without any rest and ride over the double route again,
making a continuous ride of 330 miles and again I was tired.
On this same route the Indians had attacked the stage, killed
the driver and a passenger, rifled the U. S. Mail and took the
four horses and when I came along, one lone Indian with rifle and
bow and arrows started after me. But I thought I had the
best horse, so played along just out of easy gun shot from him.
Finally I thought I would play a bluff on him, which worked as
I thought it would.
I turned and run at him full speed, swinging my pistol and
yelling at the top of my voice. He immediately left the road kick-
ing and whipping his pony and kept it up as far as I could see
him.
The agent, to encourage the boys to make good time, said to
them, "Boys if you kill a horse by riding fast we will buy a better
one.
One trip I was riding a lovely rangey bay, $300.00 horse at a 2 U
mile an hour clip, when the poor animal missed his footing and
fell, breaking his neck and almost sent me to St Joseph. When
I gathered myself up and found my horse dead, I had to walk
about five miles and carry my saddle and express matter and
so registered another tired. R. E. Eg an.
282 PIONEERING THE WEST
75. *CONCLUSION.
We realize that so far this book does not contain a complete
Biography of either Major or Howard R. Egan; but we are
very desirous to preserve in type these writings as far as they go,
and as the limits of the book are very near to a close we can
only add in conclusion a few words to show some completness
to it.
Will say first that Howard R. Egan, the principal writer
and publisher of the forgoing had some matters to write about
that has not yet been submitted, and many things should be
said^yet. In brief we will state: that in 1870 he closed up
business with Father and the Deep Creek branch and left there,
going to Richmond, Cache County, Utah. Near there he and I
took up a quarter section each of land. He bought a saw mill
in High Creek Canyon and run it for a number of years, also
other saw mills afterwards and he died in March 1916. Many of
his activities there must await some later date to be made known.
A small brief has been made of R. Erastus Egan on page 214
and we will now give a statement of the conclusion of Mother's
family, Ira E. Egan, who was the last born, Feb. 5th 1861, in Salt
Lake City and lived through his early life there, got his schooling
arid was messenger boy for the Telegraph Company. He mar-
ried and, raised a family (See Appendix) and is now living near
Smithfield, Cache County where he has a home.
Mother's Children were six in number, one died a baby, and
Hoarce died in Salt Lake City at the age of fifteen. The rest
are alive Howard R., R. Erastus, William, and Ira (See Appendix
Nancy, the second wife had two daughters, Helen J. who
married and raised a large family, Vilate L., who died some
time after Horace and they were both buried in the Salt
Lake City Cemetery where Father had the lot fenced with
cut sand stone and an Iron fence hammered out of old wagon
tire by R. B. Margets.
Hyrum W. Egan was a son of Mary, the third wife. He
married at Deep Creek and raised a family, (See Appendix). He
moved to Goose Creek or Basin, Idaho, and died there. His wife
and family are now living at Burley, Idaho and have quite a
posterity.
When the immigrants came in with trains each season
and also with the hand cart companies there was much suffer-
ing for want of the necessaries of life which they were entire-
ly deficient of, during the early years after first ones began to
arrive. This would have been much greater but for the bene-
volence of those that were here who were able to help them.
Father was doing well during this period with his beef trade
in California and Mother had means to use and being naturally
very benevolent she helped them a great deal. We were situa-
ted close to the Union Square on which they could get some
better quarters.
PIONEERING THE WEST 3J3
I remember Mother saying that she kept an account one sea-
son and found that she had purchased $1500 worth of provisions
which she had given emmigrants of the hand cart companies
and others that were in need. She told Father about it and
the only comment he made was "That is right Mother and you
shall be blessed for your good heart."
After the completion of the railroad from the east to the
west across the continent, the route having been chosen north of
the Salt Lake, there was no more use for the Mail Line and
there was not much left at Deep Creek for activity except in
connection with the mines that had been discovered during the
many years that the ranch had been in operation, so Father
turned his attention to them. He seemed to be quite success-
ful in developing some good properties in partnership with two
other men and could have sold out for $50,600 which Father
wanted to do, but his partners wanted more and they got no-
thing, as all the railroad projects failed to reach there, and as
the ore was low grade it would not pay to ship. The mines
failed to reimburse him for the means he had expemded in
them, which was the substance of the entire Deep Creek Ranch
farm land etc.
While Father was working the mining property he was
also engaged in missionary work among the Indians, who were
induced through his influence to settle down to civilzed life,
and have since became quite successful in farming, for they
had been used as farm and hay hands many years on the Deep
Creek property and now they were shown how to work for them-
selves. He also aided much in teaching them and also impart-
ing to them a knowledge of the Gospel, as well as in good habits
of honesty and industry. June 2, 1874, one hundred Goshute
Indians were baptised and there was a general religious move-
ment among them.
Having exhausted all his resources at Deep Creek Father
came to Salt Lake about 1875 and lived at the old home with
his family, (what were left at home.) He became one of the
Salt Lake Police and also Deputy Sheriff both of which ap-
pointments we now have in our possession.
He also became a special guard for Pres. Brigham Young
at the Lion House and Church Offices before and at the time
of Pres. Brigham Young's last illness and acted as special nurse,
in which capacity he had many times acted before in various
cases, and was often called doctor. Brigham Young would tell
him to get him a pitcher of cold water and pump it full forty
times. Many other little attentions he would render for him.
After the death of Pres. Young Father was the special guard at
his grave, and a building was erected so that he could look
out on the grave any time of night, without getting out of bed,
by the light that was kept burning.
Pres. Young died Aug. 29th, 1877, and in March 1878 Father
got his feet wet one dark night and took sick, which resulted in
inflamation of the bowels, and died at the age of sixty-three.
284
PIONEERING THE WEST
Mother lived till March 31st, 1905, and Father's papers were
kept until then, but after that many of them were destroyed.
If all his life work were written it would take many volumes
to contain it. The Pioneer Monument was erected to the honor
of the band of Pioneers of which he was a member and his name
appears with the rest upon it.
This year, 1915, the great Capitol of the State of Utah,
has been finished, as if in memory of the one hundreth anniver-
sary of the birth of Major Howard Egan, but at least repre-
senting the grand advancement of the great commonwealth of
which with other Pioneers he played so prominent a part in
laying the foundation; and it was on this anniversary of his
birth we commenced to publish this volume, and expect in the
near future to build a monument in honor of his name.
Kagle Gate, Beehive House, Church Offices and Lion House. Where Brigham
Vomi- Lived and Where He Died.
PIONEERING THE WEST
285
APPENDIX
GENEALOGY
From Adam to the Stem of the Egan Family. Of this line are the
Kings and rulers of Judah, of Spain, Ireland, England,
Scotland, Wales and others.
1...Adam m Eve
2. Seth m
Abel
3. Enos, 4 Cainan 5 Ma-
halaleel, 6 Jared, 7 Enoch, 8
Mathuselah, 9 Lamech, 10
Noah m
I
Cain m Brother's Dau.
| Gen. V.
Cain's prosterity in the
Land of Nod. Destroyed by
flood with others except Nbah.
Gen. X.
11 Shem, 12 Arphaxad, 13
13 Salah, 14 Ebner, 15 Peleg,
16 Reu, 17 Serug, 18 Nahor, 19
Terah.
Ham
Egyptian
and other
nations
Japheth
! Gentile
peoples
of the
World
(Irish Chart)
( Sarah
20. Abraham m < Hager
( Keturah
Gen XXI-XXV
21. Isaac m Rebecca.
Gen. XXV |
Ishmael others
Arabians, Armenians, etc.
22. Jacob m j
Gen. XXIX - XXX |
1. Esau m Judith
2 Eliphaz, 3 Amalels 4 Thardu,
5 Walid.
Soti I. (XIX Dynasty of Pha-
raohs.)
23. Judah, Joseph, Levi
286
PIONEERING THE WEST
23. Judah m Tamar.
24. Zarah (or Tara) 25 E-
than, (King of Scythia) 26 Tua-
\ hoi or Phonensis Farsaidh (in-
ventor of letters)
27. Gadhol m vScota
(Friend of Moses and
founder of Port Ga-
thelas or Portugal)
28. Asruth, 29 Gruth, 30
Heber Scutt, 31 Beouman, 32
Oggoman, 33 Lamfionn, 34 Heb-
er Glunfionn, 35 Agnan, Fion,
36 Febric Glas, 37 Mennall, 38
Nuadhas, 39 Alladh, 40 Aroadh,
41 Dreag, 42 Brath, 43 Breogan,
44 Bile
1st d. of no. 25
45. Mfleeus m -I 2nd Scota
3rd Meriam
46 Herman, six others, Heber
Mileseus, King of Spain or Gal-
lam the conqueror of Ireland
and hero of 1000 battles had
eight sons. Three of them
reigned through their descen-
dants in the 183 Milesian Kings
from whom all Milesian fa-
milies are descended.
Herman Eochaidk (crown-
ed horsemen) youngest son of
Mileseus a prince of Dan,
through his mother, Meriam
and his grand father McGree-
me (last Tuatha de Danaan
King, see Irish History) as well
as a prince of Judah, a knight
of the "Red Branch, two fold
simbolized in coat of arms by
two Red Lions. He was born
in Spain, educated in Ireland
and wore a seven colored kilt.
These two lines of Judah joined together by this marriage in
the year of the world 3434 A. M. constitute the "Royal Arch
Degree" of Free Masonry, which the prophet Jeremiah founded.
24 Pharez, 25 Easru, 26 Aram,
27 Amimadob, 28 Nashour, 29
Salsmon, 30 Boaz, 31 Obed, 32
Jesse, 33 David, 34 Solomon, 35
Rehoboam, 36 Obijah, 37 Ada,
38 Jehosaphat, 40 Ahazieh, 42
Jotham, 44 Amajiah, 45 Heze-
kiah, 46 Manasseh, 47 Amon, 48
Jbshiah, 49 Zedekiah his sons
were slain, 50 * Tea Tephi
"Tender twig of prophecy"
youngest daughter of King Zed-
ekiah escaped the Balylonian
capitivity with her great
Grandfather the prophet Jere-
miah. His palace was Tea-
mor the Palace of Tahpam-
hes in Egypt unearthed by Pe-
tree Contanis. A tradition of
Kings daughter says: "The
stone on which Jacob slept
they carried with them. On
that she was crowned, the
50*th from Adam, Queen Vic-
toria 150th, Queen Victoria of
Spain 153rd, the last of great
fishes in the net, finishing up
times of Gentiles."
Jacob's stone went to
Scotland in the time of Per-
gno. It is now the Corna-
tion stone of Westminister Ab-
bey, carried there from Scot-
land. She had met Herman
years before in Egypt and
whe^i with her great grand
father the prophet, she landed
in Ireland, with Druedic cere-
monial she and Herman were
married.
PIONEERING THE WEST 287
He also placed in the mound of Tara Northwest of Dublin, the
Ark of the Covenant and England's Title deeds to the Holy
Land. It is now the property of England and being approached
from all sides. "Britham" is the. land of the Covenant, "Mount
Ephriam, the land of Dan or "Pridian."
The only child of this marriage of Hermon and Tea Tephi
in 562 B. C. was Irial the prophet, the ancestor of the Cobb family
of America and many others.
MILESIAN KINGS LINE OF HEREMON.
46 Herman m Tea Tephi, 47 Ireal Faidh X. 48 Eithrial, 49
Foll-aigh, 50 Tigernmas, 51 Eubotha, 52 Smiorughall, 53 Fiacha
Labhrainn XVIII, 54 AEneas Almucach XX, 55 Main, 56 Rothac-
tach 57 Dein, 58 Siorna, 59 Olioll Aolchevin, 60 Gialchadh XXX
VII, 61 Nudahas Fionnfail, 62 Aedan Glas, 63 Sioman Breac
XLIV, 64 Muredach Bolgrach LV, 65 Fiocha Tolgrach, 66 Duach
Lodrach, 67 Eochaidh Buadhach 68 Cobthach Gaol Bhreagh LXIX,
69 Melg Molblhach LXXI, 70 Coula Caomh LXXIV, 71 Oliohh Cas
Fiaclach LXXVII, 72 Eochaidh Alt Leatham, 73 AEneas LXXXI,
74 Enna, 75 Assaman, 76 Eochlaidh Feidioch XCIII, 77 Lughaidh
XCVIII, 78 Crumthann C, A. D. 79 Feredach, 80 Fiacha, 81 Tua-
thal CVI, 82 Fedhlimidh, 83 Conn CIX, 84 Art, 85 Cormac Ulfha-
da, 86 Cairbre, 87 Eochardh Dubhlen.
88 Colla da Chrioch founder of the Kingdom of Orgiall, O'Car-
roll, of Oriel and O'Kelly (P. 365 O'Hart) families of Nester and
princes of Hy Maine, Kings of Orgiall to 12th century. 89 lom-
chadh, 90 Domhmall, 91 Eochaidh, 92 Main Mor, 93 Breasal, 94
Dalian, 95 Lughach, 96 Fearach, 97 Cairbre Crom Ris, 98 Cormac,
99 Eoghan Foinn, 100 Dithchiollach 101 Denitheach, 102 Fiaca-
lach.
103 Coscrach, head of the stem of the Egan Family heiredi-
tary Brehons or Lawyers 104 Flaithghead, 105 Anluan, 106 Flai-
theam or Felin, 107 Gosda, 108 Aedhaghan (eye Kindle-Anglisized
Egan) 109 Flann, 110 Murtach, 111 Donach Mor. 112 Donoch Oge,
113 Simeon, 114 Justin, 115 Maloliosa, 116 Flann, 117 Finghan,
118 Owen McEgan, 119 Teige, 120 Conor, 121 Teige (2d). 122 Mela-
chlin Egan.
No. 1 to No. 20 is taken from the Bible From No. 20
Abraham to No. 83 Conn is quoted from the Chart from "Regal
Roll," "Annals of Four Fasters," showing the descent of the Car-
rolls, Egans and other families of Ireland, England, Scotland and
Wales. This is also corroborated in most part by O'Hart's "Pe-
digree of the Irish Nation" from which the balance is quoted
except the serial numbers. It so happens that No. 50 * Tea
Tephi from Adam corroborates the statements made in the Chart
that she was 50th from Adam.
I copy the following words from a Patriarchal Blessing given
Howard Egan Sept. 24th, 1842 at Nauvoo, 111, by Hyrum Smith:-
"I place a blessing on you consonant with your lineage and right
288
PIONEERING THE WEST
unto the Priesthood for behold I say unto you Howard, you are
the lineage of David and of the Tribe of Judah you shall
have an inheritance in Mt. Zion and your house or your po-
sterity that cometh after you."
Family tree, original 3 x4 feet. Reduction not readable, but is printed
in type below. Right hand lower branch represents family No. 17,
left branch, No. 18, and so on up. The limbs represent grand-
children of Howard Egan. (Enlarged photos can be had
from R. D. Johnson, photographer, 118 S. llth East,
Salt Lake City.)
PIONEERING THE WEST
PEDIGREE OF HOWARD EGAN FROM HIS GRAND FATHER
AND HIS POSTERITY TO THE PRESENT TIME
1. Benard Egan born about 1760, married Betty Egan b. a.
1762. Chil. 3. * Howard b. a. 1782, 4. * William b. a. 1784,
all of Tullimore Kings Co. Ireland.
3. Howard Egan b. a. 1782 md. 1805, 5 Ann Meade b. a. 1784,
d. 1822. Chil: 6 Eliza b. 1806. 7 Mary b. 1807, 8. Catherine b.
1808, 9. Bernard b. a. 1810, 10. John b. a. 1813, 11. 'Howard
b. 15 June 1815 (author of the Diary of this book) 12. Ann
b. a. 1817, 13. Richard b. 1820, 14 Evelina b. 1822, 15. Mar-
garet b. 1822, in Tullimore, Kings Co., Ireland.
FATHER
MOTHER
11. Howard Egan, md 1 Dec. 1836, 16. Tamson Parshley b. 27,
July 1825. Chil: 17. * Howard Ransom b. 12 Apr. 1840, 18. *
Richard Erastus b. 29 Mar. 1842, 19. Charles John b. 1814 d.
1845. 20 Horace Adelbert b. 12 Aug. 1847, d. 24 Mar. 1862,
21. *\Villiam M. b. 13 June 1851, 22. *Ira Ernest b. 5 Feb.
1861, 23. Nancy Redding Egan (2nd wife) md. 1846 at Nau-
voo d. 3 Apr. 1892 Chil: 24. 'Helen J. b. 25 Aug. 1847, 25.
Vilate L. b. 13 Oct. 1849, d. 1866. 26. Mrs. Mary Egan
290 PIONEERING THE WEST
(3rd wife) md. 1849; Chi I: 27. *Hyrum Wm. b. 24 July 1850
in Utah No. 17 and 18 in Salem, Mass. 19 in Nauvoq 20
and 24 in Winter Quarters 21, 22 and 25 in Salt Lake City.
Four sons of Howard and Tamsoii Egan, all living. Standing:: Eldest
son Howard R., and youngest son Ira E. Sitting, on the right:
R. Erastua, left, Wm. M. Egan. Following is the descendants.
17. Howard Ransom Egan, md. 10 Oct. 1864, 28. Amanda An-
drus b. 19 Nov. 1847. Chil. Annie T. b. 1 Aug. 1864, d.
1908, 30.. *Julia J. b. 22 Aug. 18G6, d. 1888, 31. "Howard M.
b. 28 Nov. 1868, 32. *Mary b. 28 June 1871, d. 1914, 33. *
William J. b. 24 Aug. 1873, 34. *John R. b. 22 July 1875, 35
Linnie J. b. 9 Dec. 1877, 36 * Charles E. b. 23 June
1880, 37. * George E. b. 9 July 1883, 38. * H. Walter b.
27 August 1885, 39. * James A. b. 16 Feb. 1888, 40. * Inis P.
PIONEERING THE WEST
291
b. 7 Mar. 1890. No. 29 and 30 Born in Salt Lake
at Deep Creek, the rest at Richmond, Cache Co.
No. 31
18. Richard Erastus Egan, md. 1861, 41. Mary Minnie Fisher b.
1844 d. 1887. Chil: 42. "Tamson M. b. 2 Mar. 1863, 43 * Eras-
tus H. 10 Sept. 1864, 44. Harry O. b. 2 Oct. 1866 d. 1879, 45.
Hoarce F. 2 Nov. 1867, 46. * John L. b. 4 Oct 1870, 47. Wil-
liam F. b. 5 Apr. 1872, 48. Willard R. b. 5 Apr. 1872, 49 Joe. R.
b. 7 Sept. 1874, 50. * Ira I. b-. Sept. 1875, 51 *Linnie J. b.
25 Feb. 1878, 52. * Mary b. 5 Feb. 1880, 53. * Charles M. b.
27 Aug. 1881, 54. * David b. 13 July 1884. No. 42 born in
Salt Lake City Nos. 43, 44, 46, 47, 48, 49, and 50 born in
Ruby Valley, 51, 52, 53 and 54 born in Bountiful, Davis
County. 55, Mary Beatrice Noble Egan, (2nd wife) md. 1889
b. 10 Nov. 1864. Chil: 56. Harold E. b. 23 May 1890, 57. *Ora
May b. 16 Feb. 1892, 58. * Nellie L. b. 25 Apr. 1894, 59. Erma
A. b. 19 Oct. 1896, 60. Byron Noble b. 26 May 1900. 61 How-
Ira Ernest Egan,
Yo an great son of Howard Egan.
Bmiihfieid. Utah
Hyrum Wm. Egan,
son of Howard and Mary Ku:in. Him
widow's address, Berley, Ida.
292 PIONEERING THE WEST
ard N. b. Nov. 1904. 62. Richard N. b. 8 Apr. 1907. The
first six born in Bountiful, last in Byron, Wyoming.
21. William M. Egan, md. 1886, 63. Ruth Nichols b. 7 Feb. 1840.
Chll: her's six. She was born in Chatham, Kent Eng.
22 Ira Ernest Egan md. 1882, 64. Emma Moss, b. in Australia
Chil. 65. * Effie J. b. 1883, 66 * Emma Myrtle b. 1886, 67.
Ernest L. b. 1888, d. yg. 68. Ira E. b. 14 July 1889, 69. Jeanne
T. b. 1893, d. yg. All born in Salt Lake City.
24. Helen Jenet Egan md. 1886, 70. John K. Irvine b. 3 Jan.
1844 Chil: John b. 7 Feb. 1867, Howard G. b. 23 Mar. 1869,
Helen N. b. 21 Nov. 1871. Wm. E. b. .12 Jan. 1874, Clarence
E. b. 10 Dec. 1877, Maud M. b. 29 Oct. 1880, Luella, A. b. 9
Sept, 1883, Robert L. b. 19 Sept. 1886. All born in Salt Lake
City.
27. Hyrum William Egan, md. 1871, 71. Mary Salome Preator b.
18 May 1851. Chil: Hyrum L. L. b. 30 Nov. 1872, 73 * Theresa
E. b. 21 Jan. 1875. 74. Mary E. b. 8 Nov. 1883. 75. Vida
V. b. 14 Feb. 1886. First two born in Deep Creek, last
two in Bason, Idaho.
FIRST BRANCH; FAMILY OF NO. 17 THEIR MARRIAGES
AND CHILDREN.
29. Annie Tamson Egan, md. 1884, 76. Freeman Burnham. Chil
Nora T. b. 14 Mar. 1885, Afton b. 22 Mar. 1887, Ada, b. 26 Sep.
1888, Pauline b 8 Apr. 1891. Howard A. b. 4 Apr. 1893, Mildred
22 Apr. 1895, Walace F. b. 26 Jan. 1897, Donald J. b. 12 Nov.
1899, Arthur H./b. 7 Sept. 1900, Mourice L. b. 11 Sept. 1903
Harold L. b. 14 July 1906, Wayne E. b. 27 June 1908. First
three at Richmond next two at Ogden, the rest at Salt Lake
City.
30. Julia Jane Egan, md. 1883, 76. W. R. Tripp b. in Salt Lake
City. Chil: Effie P. b. 7 Feb. 1884, Julia A. b. 26 May 1887, ,d.
Inft. Both born in Richmond, Utah.
31. Howard Milo Egan, md. 1892, 77. Laura Hill of Richmond
Chil: 78. Milo H. b. 14 Sept 1893, 79. Edna 'L. b. 22 Sept.
1895, 80. Wm. R. b. 24 Nov. 1897, 81. Russel b. 23 Nov. 1899.
82. Winnie I. b. 1 Sept. 1901, 83. Hoarce D. b. 22 Mar.
1903, 84. Lee L. b. 13 Jan. 1906, 85. Arnold F. b. 13 Mar. 1908
All born in Richmond Utah
32. Mary Elizabeth Egan, md. 1893, 86. Walter J. Hill of Rich-
mond. Chil: Leonard W. b. 22 Sept 1895, Coila L. b. 18 May
1898, Mary G. b. 7 Sept 1905, d. 1906. Born in Richmond
Utah.
33. William Ira Egan, md. 1897, 87. Mary Chatterton of Rich-
mond. Chil: 88. Phebe L. b. 20 Nov. 1898, 89. William b.
PIONEERING THE WEST 293
1900, d. 1900 90 Mary P. b. 10 Mar. 1903, mcL (2nd wife)
91. Mary M. Gunter Chil: (2nd wife) 92. Loren b. 16 Feb.
1910, 93. Alva b. 1912. All born in Richmond, Utah.
34. John Ransom Egan, md. 1897, 94 Annie C. Smith b. 1877.
Chil: 95. Annie V. b. 9 July 1898, 96 Carlos R. b. 12 Oct.
1899, 97. Hoarce R. b. 27 Jan. 1901, 98. Flossie L. b. 14 Sept
1902, 99. David D. b. 6 Oct 1904, 100. Howard V. b. Feb.
1906, 101 Amanda C. b. 3 June 1909. All born in Rich-
mond, Utah.
35. Linnie June Egan, md. 1897, 102 Riley Bair of Richmond
Chil: Howard Bair b. 25 June 1898, Gertrude b. 24 Aug. 1899,
Ivan L. b. 24 Aug 1901, Maurice L. b. 17 Aug. 1903, Doris
b. 17 Aug. 1903, Riley R. b. 3 April 1905. Walter A. b.
14 March 1907, Richard E. b. 12 Dec. 1910. Elmo E. b.
2 Feb. 1913, Glen G. b. 24 Feb. 1915. All born in Richmond
except Maurice L. in Rexburg, Idaho.
36. Charles Erastus Egan, md. 1911, 103 Paula Krupa of Ger-
many.
37. George Ernest Egan, md. 1902, 104. Minnie Hope of Rich-
mond. Chil: 105. Nada I. b. 12 Feb. 1904, 106. Edith E. b.
8 March 1905, 107 Delbert E. b. 14 Apr. 1907. 108 Alta L.
L. b. 1 Feb. 1910, 109 Millie b. May 1913. All born in
Richmond, Utah.
38. Hoarce Walter Egan, md. 1912, 110. Anna B. Tengberg
Chil: 111. Myrtle A. b. 20 Nov. 1912 in Preston Idaho. 112.
Inis B. b. 19 Aug 1914 in Tremonton, Utah.
39. James Alva Egan, md. 1911, 113. Zina G. Christensen
Chil: 114 Merlin A. b. 29 Sept. 1912, 115 Thelda Z. b. 8 May
1914. Children born in Richmond.
40. Inis Percilla Egan, md. 1907, 116. N. E. Maben of Richmond.
Chil: Inis V. Maben b. 23 Jan 1910 in Richmond, Utah.
*In addition to those given above of this branch, (the
children of No. 17 Nos. 29 to 40 Inclusive), there were five
grand children married and ten great grand children born
but no details were given.
SECOND BRANCH; FAMILY OF NO. 18 THEIR MARRIAGES
AND CHILDREN.
42 Tamson Minnie Egan, md. 1888, 117. William Marshall b. in
Bountiful.. Chil: William E. Marshall b. 2 Apr. 1889, Darell
b. 24 July 1891, Minnie L. b. 8 Dec. 1896. First two born in
Bountiful last Randolph.
43. Erastus Howard Egan, md. 118. Alice Moss of Bountiful
Chil: Frastus: 119 Howard E. b. 19 June 1890, 120 Christie
b. 21 Aug. 1891, 121. Clifford J. b. 25 Jan. 1897, 122. Minnie
294 PIONEERING THE WEST
R. b. 6 Mar 1900, 123. Ethel W. b. 1902. All born in Pro-
spect, Idaho, except 1st born in Bountiful.
45. Horace Fredrick Egan, md. 1891, 124. Eveline E. Benson
Chil: 125. Horace Fred. Jr. b. 23 Sept 1892, 126. John
Perry b. 23 Mar. 1894, 127. Minnie E. b. Feb. 1896, 128. May
b. 9 Nov. 1898, d. yg. 129. Loyd B. b. 5 July 1900, 130. Neva
b. 24 Mar. 1909, 131. Rodney, b. 1913. First born in
Bountiful, next three in Skelton, Bingham Co. Idaho, next
in Willow Creek, last two in Salt Lake City.
46. John Leroy Egan, md. 1896, 132. Millie Benson Chil: 133.
Elsie b. 26 July 1897, 134. Leroy B. b. 9 Dec. 1899, 135.
Carlos B. b. 25 Sept. 1901, 136. Alta b. 7 Apr. 1903, 137.
Mabel b. 6 Feb. 1905, 138. Ezra B. b. 14 Jan. 1907, 139.
Lucille b. 14 Nov. 1909, 140. Wren B. b. 1 Aug. 1911, 141.
John B. b. Apr. 1913, 142. Lyle B. b. 3 June 1915. First five
born in Bountiful, last five in Byron, Wyo.
48. Willard Richard Egan, md. 1901, 143. Lelis Sessions. Chil:
144. Vera S. b. 21 Jan. 1902, 145. Minnie b. 29 May 1903, 146.
Linnie b. 29 May 1903. All born in Bountiful, Utah.
50. Ira Irvin Egan, md. 1898, 147. Margaret R. Colvia Chil:
148. Ira O. b. 30 Nov. 1899, 149. Rozelle b. 12 Aug. 1902,
150. Lorin R. b. 25 Aug. 1904, 151. Wanda b. 25 Sept. 1906,
152. David M. b. 26 Sept. 1908. First three born in Eden,
Utah last two born in Byron, Wyo.
51. Linnie June Egan, md. 1900, 153. Robert A. Moss Chil:
Emma L. b. 18 Feb. 1907, Robert D. b. 10 Dec. 1908. Born
in Salt Lake City.
52. Mary Adelade Egan, md. 1901, 154. Oscar J. Evans Chil:
McClellan J. Evans b. 10 Sept. 1902, Oral J. b. 4 June 1905,
Iris b. 10 Sept. 1907, Oscar E. b. 9 Apr. 1909, Alta M. b. 6
Apr. 1910, Durell E. b. 20 Nov. 1911, Baby b. 14 Apr. 1914.
All born in Randolph, Wyo.
53. Charles Merit Egan, md. 1906, 155. Clara R. Hatch Chil:
156. Mary E. b. 3 Aug. 1907, 157. Charles S. b. 3 Jan. 1910,
158. Delbert H. b. 14 Sept. 1913. Born in Salt Lake City
54. David Egan, md. 1907, 159. Elizabeth Easton Chil: 160.
Harold E. b. 26 July 1908, 161. David E. b. 9 Dec. 1909, 162.
Florence b. 25 Feb. 1911, 163. Laura b. 4 Dec. 1912, 164.
La Rue b. 30 July 1914, 165. Helen b. 23 Dec. 1915. First
two born in Byron Wyo. Third in Centerfield the rest in
Salt Lake City.
57. Ora May Egan, md.. 7 June 1911, John W. Simmons Chil:
Glenn Winn b. 3 Mar. 1912, Raymond E. b. Feb. 1914. born in
Byron, Wyoming.
58. Nellie Loretta Egan, md. 11 Sept 1912, Frank J. Sylvester
Chil: Louise b. 28 July 1913 at Byron, Wyo.
PIONEERING THE WEST 295
FAMILY OF NO. 22 THEIR MARRIAGES AND CHILDREN
65. Effie Irene Egan, md. 1904, 166. Milo Andrus Chil: Emma
J. b. 1905, Clifford M. b. 1906, Zelda b. 22 Aug. 1912.
66. Emma Myrtle Egan, md. 1907, 167 John W. Pitcher Chil:
Stanley J. b. 25 June 1908, Ernest J. b. Feb. 1911, d. June
1911, Adrian b. 10 April. 1912, Vernon b. 12 May 1914.
Born at Smithfield, Utah.
68. Ira Erastus Egan, md. 1912, 168. Annie P. Rudd, Chil:
169. Gladio Myrtle b. 13 Nov. 1913 in Salt Lake City,
FAMILY OF NO. 27 THEIR MARRIAGES AND CHILDREN
72, Hyrum L. Egan, md. 1894, 170. Mary L. Kidd Chil: 171.
Howard H. b. 4 Feb. 1895, 172. Douglas R. b. Sept. 1896,
173. Mary E. b. 30 Nov. 1897, 174. Troy C. b. 18 Apr. 1899,
175. Edith M. b. 5 Mar 1901, 176 Leonard E b. 6 Sept 1903,
177. Lucy A. b. 6 Sept. 1904, 178. William A. b. 9 Apr. 1907,
First six born in Oakley, last two in Bason, Idaho.
73. Theresa E. Egan, md. 179. Joseph H. Dayley Chil: Clara
E. b. 19 Feb. 1893, Joseph M. b. 18 May 1894, James H. b.
14 Oct. 1896, Dewey L. b. 17 Sept. 1898, Emilly T. b. 8 Dec.
1900 Laura b. 17 Nv. 1901, Cora L. b. 6 Dec. 1904, Mary
B. b. 12 Jaan. 1908 Richard L. b. 5 Apr. 1910. Born in Bason,
Idaho.
75. Vida V. Egan, md. 1903, 180. Walter W. Kidd Chil: Hazel J.
b. 19 Sept. 1904, Garnet W. b. 20 Jan. 1905, Buel E. b. 14
Apr. 1907, Thurman, A. b. 30 Aug.. 1909 All born in Bason,
Idaho.
Descendants of male line of Howard Egan No. 11 including
wives and children . 155
Descendants on Female line of Howard Egan No. 11 in-
cluding husbands and children none of 2nd generation 85
240
DESCENDANTS OF NO. 4, NO 11's UNCLE.
4. William Egan, md. 1805, 181. Miss Watson Chil: 182. *Edward
b. about 1806, in Tullemore, Kings Co. Ireland.
182. Edward Egan, md. a. 1828, 183. Margaret Coffey Chil: 184.
*William b. a. 1829, 185. John b. 1831, 186. Margaret
b. a. 1833, 187. Ann b. a. 1835. born in Tullemore, Ireland.
184. William Egan, md. 1857, Maria Murphy, b. a. 1833 Chil:
188. Edward b. 9 Aug. 1858 in Tullemore, Kings Co. Ireland
and the last of this line. He is the man standing in the
doorway of old home page 10.
FAMILIES OF SISTERS AND BROTHER OF NO. 11
BROTHER'S CHILDREN.
6. Eliza Egan, md. 1830, 189. Henry Benallack Chil: George
b. 25 Dec. 1831, Henry J. b. 14 May 1833, Ann E. b. 9 Mar.
1835, John Howard b. 25 Jan. 1837 d. 1878 John G. b 14
PIONEERING THE WEST
Nov. 1838, Eliza b. 21 Mar 1841, d. 1890 Howard b. 5 May 1843,
Maria b. 18 Feb. 18 Feb. 1846. Born in Montreal, Canada.
7. Mary Egan, md. 1833, 190. Adam Higgins b. 1802 Chil: Eiiza
b. 21 Feb. 1835, Annie b. 1 Mar. 1836 Thomas Wm. b. 1
Sept 1837, Howard Egan b. Nov 1838 Maria b. 1841. Adam b.
1843. Margaret b. 1845 John G. b 22 May 1846. Born in
Montreal, Canada.
8. Catherine Egan, md. 1828 191 John Ransom Chil: Annie b.
Apr. 1829, Mary b. 17. Oct. 1830, Jane b. 19 Mar. 1832,
Eliza b. 19 Mar. 1832, Aaron F. b. 24 Oct 1833, John b. 25
Nov. 1835, Howard b. 5 Feb. 1838, Richard b. 1 Oct 1840.
All born in Montreal, Canada.
FAMILY OF NO. 13 THEIR MARRIAGES AND CHILDREN
13. Richard Egan, md. 1841, 192. Maria Stuart Chil:
193. Francis Howard b. 10 Aug. 1843, 194 William J. b. 25
Mar. 1846, 195. Maria b. 22 May 1847, 196. * Richard b. 15
May 1848, 197. Eliza b. 9 July 1850, 198. *Robert b. "28
Oct. 1851, 199 * Henry A. b 20 Mar. 1855, 200. *Maria b. 22
Feb. 1857, All born in Montreal, Cftnada.
196 Richard Egan, md. 1870, 201 Charlotte Stuart Chil: 202.
Henrietta b. 5 July 1871, 203 Maria b. 3 May 1873 204.
204 Beatrice M. b. 8 Apr. 1874, 205. Lilly E. b. 1 Jan 1876,
206. Charlotte F. b. 6 Apr. 1879, 207. Laura G. b. 24 Jan. 1881,
208. Richard W. b. 3 Nov. 1882. All born in Montreal, Canada.
198 Robert Egan, md. 1882, 209. Annie HcCuaig Chil: 210
Annie L. b. 17 May 1883, d. yg. William H. b. 3 Dec. 1884
212 Bertha M. b. 6 May 1887, 213. Malcolm R. b. 25 Dec.
1888. d. yg. 214 Eva M. b. 21 Aug. 1890, 215 Florence R. b.
28 Apr. 1892, d yg. 216. Alice E. b. 28 Apr. 1892, d. yg.
217. John S. b. 20 May 1894, 218. Violet A. b. 28 Mar. 1897.
All born in Montreal Canada
199. Henry Adam Egan, md. 1882, 219. Elizabeth Ann Lumsden
Chil: 220. Robert F. b. 23 Nov. 1883, 221. Mary H. b.
3 Mar 1886, 222. Lilly S. b. 21 Feb. 1888, 223. Henry A.
b. 18 Nov. 1889, 224. James A. b. 15 June 1891, 225. Richard
E. b. 31 Mar 1896. All born in Montreal, Canada.
200 Maria Egan, md. 1877, 226. John Andrew Peard Chil: Wil-
liam H. b. 23 June 1878, Francis A. S. b. 12 Jan. 1881.
Edith F. b. Mar. 1882, John T. b. 24 Nov. 1885 Walter P.
b. Dec. 1887, John A. L. b. 16 June 2891. All born in
Montreal, Canada.
(Serial numbers are applied to those bearing the Egan name and
those whom they married only. Those marked with * mar-
ried and their names appear the second time as head
of family.)
PIONEERING THE WEST 297
"IRISH HISTORY
A little idea of Irish History may be gained by the following
brief sketcjt, which should be read in connection with Genealogy
before given:
It was first peopled in the 4th century after the Deluge ac-
cording to tradition by Parthenius from Japheth stock in the
80th year of the age of Abraham B. C. 2100.
After 300 years in Erin the entire colony of 900 were cut
off by a dreadful pestilence.
Nemidius, a distant relative of Partholan 39 years after
arrived there 1761 B. C. with 1000 followers. In a short time
Ireland was invaded by the Formorians, giants from Africa.
They were fought successfully in many engagements, but in the
great battle of Tory Island the army of Nemidius was totally
destroyed. Those who survived fled, some to the north of
Belgium to become the ancestors of the Firbolgs or Bogmen,
some wandered to Greece to give parentage to the Tuatha De
Danaan, and others escaped to the neighboring island of Britain,
which it is said took its name from Briotan, the Nemedan leader
who settled there.
The Firbolgs, kept in cruel bondage in Belgium seized the~
ships of their masters and landed in Ireland B. C. 1397 and in
the desisive battle of Tara the Formorian forces were nearly
annihilated.
The Firbolgs were in their turn disturbed of their prize 80
years after by the Tuatha De Danaans. Nauida, their king
was immediately attacked by his Firbolg's kinsman under their
Monarch, Bocha. The battle of Moytura was fierce and bloody,
and after six days of the greatest slaughter that was ever heard
of in Erin, the victory remained with the Tuatha De Danaans,
and they remained in power 200 years.
The last conquerors of Pagan Ireland were called Gael or
Gadian from one of their rulers, Gadelas who was bitten by a
serpent, but healed by Moses when he was preparing to liber-
ate Israel from Egypt. In gratitude Gadelas supplied Moses and
the Children of Israel with provisions after their passage of
the Red Sea.
For this they were driven out and settled Phonecia and
afterwards in Spain under King Breogan. who had two sons Ith
and Bile. The latter was the father of Milesius, who in turn
became King of the Colony, called Galicia.
Milesius went back to Egypt and Pharoah gave him the chief
command of the Royal Army. He was successful and Pharaoh
gave him his daughter Scota in marriage and he returned to
Spain.
A dreadful drouth caused King Milesius to send his uncle
Ith to seek the most western island of Europe.. Ith set sail
with his son Louy and a large force. They soon landed on the
Irish coast, were attacked and in a sharp struggle Ith fell and
they were forced to retire. Louy barley escaped with a few com-
298 PIONEERING THE WEST
pacions and embarked for home. In the mean time Milesius,
after reigning 36 years died, the hero of 1000 battles.
The Milesians, on the return of the expedition, prepared
themselves to avenge the death of Ith and conquor Ireland. A
fleet of 60 vessels were equipped and the entire colony embarked
under 40 leaders, including the eight sons of Milesius, their
Mother Scota and Louy the son of Ith.
"They arrived at Ireland B. C. 1120. Five of the brothers per-
ished before landing. The remaining sons Heber, Hermon, and
Amergin with all their attendants effected a landing at last near
Sleive Mish Mountain in Kerry. They were attacked by Queen
Eire. She was put to flight after loosing 1000 men. The Mile-
sians loosing 300 besides Scota and many chiefs.
After the first advantage, plans were laid which resulted
in a decisive battle on the plain of Telton, in Meath. A well
contested and bloody battle was fought and the sovereignty of
Ireland passed into the hands of the Milesians, and the other
dynasties passed away.
Heber and Hermon divided the sovereignty of Ireland be-
tween them. The two brothers ruled but a year when Heber's
wife influenced him to declare war against Hermon. The two
armies met at Geashill near Tullemore, King's County. Hermon
was finally victorious and from him through over 100 Monarchs of
Ireland we trace our genealogy.
HOWARD EGAIVS TRAVEL
From the Missouri River to the Valley of the Salt Lake in
1849. - Kept by Peter Hanson.
*This paper only recently came into my hands and was too
late for insertion in the proper place and we will not now try
to reproduce it but only make some notes concerning it.
It seems this was Howard Egan's third trip to Salt Lake.
The paper states that the winter was severe until March and
that Howard had a hard time of it having to travel most of the
time, making preparations for the trip. It states that the com-
pany began to gather on the 15th of April 1849, Peter Hanson
and others went through Kanesville and on the ninth day ar-
rived at St. Joseph, which was very stirring on account of the
"Gold fever" raging there about going to California. Their loads
were heavy and the wagons rolled on the hubs for a quarter of
a mile through the mud.
Howard Egan sent sonie goods on a steamboat, by Orson
Whitney, up the river, but the boat sunk and Orson, got some
help and got out the most part of them. On the 3rd of May
Howard Egan with his wife Nancy and child Helen joined the
company got them together and made preparations for the
journey crossing the Missouri on the 15th of May at Fort Kearny.
On the 16th day of May, the paper states, "Bro. Howard
Egan called the company together for the purpose of organizing.
PIONEERING THE WEST 299
Howard Egan was chosen Captain of the company. Elijah El-
mer Captain of the guard and herding. Captains of Tens wera
also chosen and a clerk.
A list of the names, ages and equipment of those in the
company are given in detail, showing that there were 57 persons,
6 horses, 3 mules, 97 oxen, 21 cows, 3 young cattle, 21 fowls,
6 dogs, and 22 wagons. The following with their families:
Howard Egan, James Graham, Elijah Elmer, James H. Christ-
man, Phillip Klingensmith, Jackson Clothier, Nathaniel Jones,
Stephen Winchister and most of the rest without families.
They commenced their first long drive the 17th day of May
and on the 19th 3 more wagons joined them, this, however, was
before the account was taken of the company. On the 21st they
met 3 teams of the gold seekers going back home, and more on
the 23rd.
They passed and were passed by other companies and on the
29th got the report that 60 individuals had died with cholera be-
tween Independence and Grand Island. Wagons worth $125 were
sold for $15 to $20. Bacon 1 cent per Ib. 2000 wagons were at
the crossing of the South Fork of the Platt River.
On the 4th of June a company of U. S. Dragoons passed by
going to Oregon. On the 9th they met Thomas Williams and
Levi Merrill coming from the valley and going to the states.
They had been robbed by the Crow Indians. They saw many
buffalos and killed some. They met Lorenzo Young and others
from the valley on the 12th, also returning gold seakers, one of
whom had been wounded in a row among themselves. On the
27th a list of deaths in Nelsons Company from Diarrhea is given.
On the 30th day they laid up to shoe oxen and Captain Egan rode
on to the ferry on the Platt, where there were many companies
crossing. Some of the troups going to Oregon were trying to
cross. More than half of them had deserted already and about
half of the rest were getting ready to leave.
Captain Egan's company got there July 3rd and it was a
great joy to meet the brethern of other companies ferrying across
Several horses were drowned and several wagons lost. Frederic
Jones was shot while trying to melt out a ball in his gun on the
4th and died on the 8th. On the 12th they reached Independence
Rock. Tires had run off and wheels broke down and many
other troubles had been met and" overcome. A large number
of dead cattle were lying along the road. Sister Klingensmith
had a daughter born on the 17th. They camped on the Sweet-
water on the 19th and a report was brought to them that the
deserting soldiers were calculating to rob this and Pomeroy's Co.
for provisions. They arrived at Green River on the 25th and
ferried over. Many cattle died with bloody flux.
Captain Egan went on with the mail July 25th. Nat. Jones
had a steer stolen but overtook the thief and took it from him.
Some deserters were taken by Mr. Bridger's men, from whom
they had stolen horses. On the 28th Mrs. N. Jones gave birth
to a boy who died and was buried at Black's Fork.
300 PIONEERING THE WEST
On the 3rd of Aug. Captain Egan returned with others
from the .Valley with wagons and ox teams, which gave the
company much joy. This was on the Weber River and they
commenced their assent up Pratt's Pass. Aug. 7th they went
over the mountain and into the valley. "Great Joy" said Peter
- Hanson as his last words in the Diary.
It will be noticed that Howard Egan made but a short stay
in Salt Lake with his family before he commenced his Cali-
fornia trip as given on previous pages of this book, and this
should have preceeded that trip if we had known of it in time.
EGAN FAMILY ORGANIZATION
A meeting was called for June 15, 1914 and a temporary
organization effected and later the following "Circular Letter"
was sent out which explains itself:
The desire has been frequently expressed that the Egan
Family should be organized, but expressions do not accomplish
anything without acting upon them. The wide scattered condi-
tion of the family and the difficulty of getting them together
made it seem like being almost impossible until a simple easy
plan was hit on to reach the desired results without very much
trouble to any of them.
A local organization for Salt Lake City and preliminary or-
ganization of the whole family was effected June 15th, 1914,
in Salt Lake City and only requires the approval of the member-
ship to be final which we hope to obtain by the 100th anniver-
sary of our honored Pioneer, Howard Egan's birth June 15th,
1915, when we hope to have a reunion of all his descendants that
can possibly attend.
We are sending this circular letter to each head of fa-
mily and a copy of the Articles and expect they will submit them
to all in their locality, who are interested, and to return their
reply to the Gen'l Sec'y H. Fred Egan Jr. 3 Girard Ave., Salt
Lake City.
It will be observed that there is absolutely no membership
fee and therefore every descendent and those that have married
into the family are members without any consideration. There
is, however, some duties connected with it whether performed or
not. You will notice the objects in view as referred to in the
preamble of the Articles of Agreement. We know not how much
of those objects we shall be able to accomplish.
Howard R. Egan becomes the President of the organization
.and has had in contemplation for some time the publishing of a
book, our Father's Journal of 1847, as captain of the 9th, Ten
of the chosen 144 to seek a new home for the Latter-day Saints
with some of his Biography and genealogy of the family to the
present time and has had the work typewritten for that purpose
PIONEERING THE WFST 301
ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT:
PERPETUAL ORGANIZATION OF THE EGAN FAMILY
SOCIETY.
"Whereas the descendants of Howard Egan are desirous of
associating themselves for the purpose of social relations, re-
newal of old family ties and affections, honoring the dead and
the living, erecting a monument to the name of our honored
pioneer, the head of the family, to do temple and genealogical
work and they do hereby certify, declare, and agree as followed
that is to say:
FIRST:
The name of the society shall be the Egan Family Society.
SECOND:
Salt Lake shall be the Societys' headquarters, with
branches in every place where any of its members may live.
THIRD:
The organization shall be perpetual.
FOURTH:
The membership shall consist of every descendant of
Howard Egan and those who have married any of them and their
children, any others can only be received by consent of the
majority of members.
F/FTH:
The business and social relations that it is agreed to
*nter into shall be as indicated in the preamble.
SIXTH:
The offcers of the society shall be, a president, vice-pre-
sidents, secretaries, and -treasurers (general and local) and
committee on temple work, and a committee on amusements.
The president shall be the oldest male descendant of
Howard Egan in succession, whose duty shall be to preside, but
he may appoint a chairman or substitute.
The vice-presidents shall be the oldest male descendant in
each locality and each family whose duty shall be to preside
over the local branch or family and in the absence of the pre-
sident shall perform all his duties. It shall be the duty also
of the branch and family vice-presidents to receive reports
pertaining to the society and comunicate the same to the
branch or family and forward reports of all matters pertaining to
their branch or family to the general society headquarters.
The secretaries shall be nominated and elected at any
meeting of the society or branch, where there is a vacancy of
the office, by a majority vote present. The secretary electe'd in
Salt Lake City shall be the general secretary of the society
provided that such officer be approved by the branches and
families, but shall hold such office until a successor shall be ap-
proved. The duty of the general secretary shall be to take
the minutes and keep the records of all proceedings of the
society. The corresponding secretaries shall be appointed by
302 PIONEERING THE WEST
the secretaries as necessities may require from any willing
workers of the society, whose duty shall be to communicate
with branches, families, and members and any other corres-
pondence necessary.
The treasurer shall be nominated in the same manner as
the secretary, whose duty shall be to receive and care for the
donations and disburse all funds by order of the president or
vice-presidents according to the desire of those who shall
contribute the same.
The committee on Temple work shall consist of three
persons, to act for the society. One to act as chairman, one to
receive, collect and handle the funds and account for same so
all will know what has become of their contributions, and one
to act as recorder of family genealogy, whose diity it is to be-
come acquainted with gathering and recording genealogy, with
accuracy and care, preparing for the worlrlx) be done, and record-
ing the completed work as it progresses. They shall be chosen
with care from those best acquainted witii the work and ap-
proved and sustained by the members. The committee on socials,
consisting of three or more, shall be appointed or elected per-
manently and fro*n time to time as desirable, who shall have in
charge the programs of the yearly meetings, the preparations for
those gatherings, and other duties common to such officers.
No membership fee shall be required from any member but
it shall be considered the duty of every member to contribute
according to their means and desire to assist in the temple work,
but the actual work will be accepted and credit given in prefer-
ence to the means of having it done. Regular contributions, it
but smnll is desirable all of which must be carefully accounted
for and reports made as to what has been done."
According to th plan and instructions, local organizations
were formed in the different places where members of the Egan
Family reside, and the Articles of Agreement Accepted, and June
15 th* 1 re-unions was held with an interested attendance, with
a good program and the organization was made permanent
and perpetual by unanimously adopting the Articles of Agree-
ment on the hundreth anniversary of Major Howard Egan's birth.
THE END.
Pioneer Monument.
Bancroft Libra
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